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Monochrome
German entrepreneur Johannes Dürrstein opened a manufacture in Glashütte in 1893 to produce quality Glashütte watches at significantly lower prices than other manufacturers in town. Closed in 1933 and acquired by Swatch Group in 2000, Union Glashütte is proud of its Saxon watchmaking heritage and sticks to the founder’s policy of competitive prices. One of […]
Monochrome
British brand Farer has introduced three updated field watches that are sequels to the original trio from 2021. The names are the same, albeit now with a Roman numeral II, but most things have otherwise changed. The overall vibe is still familiar if you know the collection, although the case, bracelet and dials have received […]
Fratello
Last week, I met with the Grand Seiko UK team at Japan House in South Kensington, London. The brand occupied a space at the cultural center and brought the latest European Limited Editions. The lights were bright, and the antireflective crystals worked overtime, but we managed a few decent shots. Earlier this month, we previewed […] Visit Hands-On With The Latest Grand Seiko European Limited Editions to read the full article.
Deployant
For watch collectors who are looking for something different, we are introducing six unique watches that we reckon should fit the bill.
WatchAdvice
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport is a piece that isn’t for the faint of heart, and is aimed squarely at those who appreciate motorsport – so we thought we would test drive this in the real world to see how it performs. What We Love: The bold design elements The rose gold case paired with the black accents Super comfortable piece to wear What We Don’t: The 44mm size won’t suit all wrist sizes Lack of a screw-down crown on a sports piece Lack of detailing and design on the rubber strap Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 TAG Heuer’s motorsport roots are well-known, to the point where if you don’t associate TAG Heuer with motorsport, then I’d say that you’re probably also unaware of the brand. Ok, I’m being a little facetious here, but you get my point. The fact that they have a watch named after an F1 race (The Monaco) and another that was designed in 1963 after Jack Heuer was enamoured by the Carrera Panamericana race in Mexico (The Carrera) should give this away, but also highlights the brand’s close ties with motor racing. This is no more evidenced by the fact that TAG Heuer will be taking over from Rolex as the official timing partner for Formula 1 from 2025 for the next 10 years as part of the deal between Formula 1 and LVMH. Global Luxury Giant LVMH Inks A Historic 10-Year Deal With Formula 1 So it comes as no surprise that last month in early September, TAG Heuer lau...
Fratello
Depancel has been inspired by 1970s car-racing designs since 2018. The new Allure Chronograph MecaQ in its reduced 36mm size extends this connection even further. Not only are the red and orange hues found on the three sub-dials and the tachymetric scale quintessentially 1970s, but the integrated bracelet also reinforces this feeling. Depancel Allure Chronograph […] Visit Hands-On: The New Depancel Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm to read the full article.
Fratello
A few weeks ago, I joined Chopard on a trip to the Dordogne region in France. There, I could sit down and talk with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, and look at some of the L.U.C watches the brand has planned for 2025. The past, present, and future of L.U.C Other brands also do these […] Visit A Visit To The Dordogne With Chopard - L.U.C Watches, Wine, And Classic Cars to read the full article.
Monochrome
In the year 2027, Ferrari will celebrate its 80th anniversary, and it has just released its mindblowing birthday gift to itself; the all-new Ferrari F80. This follows the bloodline that started with the 288 GTO which evolved into the F40 and F50 for the brand’s 40th and 50th anniversaries respectively. Then came the Enzo, dropping […]
Quill & Pad
“The Holy Trinity,” as any watch nerd knows, refers to the triumvirate of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Colin Smith takes a look at what we mean – or think we mean - when we describe PP, AP, and VC as the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and when we describe a timepiece as our “grail watch.”
Fratello
H. Moser & Cie. is not the type of brand that revels in its heritage. The brand’s catalog consists of forward-focused offerings that are hardly ever sentimental in this sense. This is quite admirable as there is plenty of history to lean on, but the Schaffhausen-based company prefers to lean on its present-day prowess. Enter […] Visit Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. × Massena Lab Endeavour Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
Bell & Ross is among the few watch brands that place luminescence at the heart of their designs, a bold approach that dates to 2019 with the BR 03-92 Full Lum, which featured a dial entirely coated in Super-LumiNova. However, this experimentation began in 2017 with the BR 03-92 Horolum and BR 03-92 Nightlum in […]
Worn & Wound
While it’s probably apocryphal, Pablo Picasso was once quoted as saying, “Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.” I was reminded of this quote when I was introduced to the new watches from Paulin, the Modul D and E. Like its predecessors, the Modul line-up has a way of being at once playful, but owning a distinctive style that can only come from years of expertise to know when and where to break the rules. Let’s start with some specifics of these watches, shall we? For both Moduls, customers get the option of two case sizes and three movements for a total of six combinations available. For the 35mm case, you have the choice of either a quartz (ETA 955.112) or manual (ETA 7001) movement, while the 39mm option is equipped with a La Joux Perret automatic movement. By the way, if you’re worried the 35mm might be too small – don’t be. The tonneau-shaped case has a deceptively large presence on the wrist, making it a perfect unisex size. In terms of colorways, the Modul D and E are a bit more subdued than other models in the line. Focusing on monochromatic dials, these models use the indices and hands for pops of color. The Modul D is a black-dialed watch with a blue hour hand, a white minute hand, and yellow indices, while Modul E is a nice contrast of a white dial, offset with blue and orange. Each reference is tonally offset against the stainless steel case. While these iterations of the Modul line may not be as flashy as previous ...
Fratello
Let the record show that this introduction to the Patek Philippe Cubitus collection was written a day after the official release. That’s important because these watches elicited strong emotions upon their debut and beforehand during online leaks. Therefore, I’ve let these watches sink in a bit before reacting. I’ll run down the specs and share […] Visit Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
We’ve kept our collective lips zipped about the new Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion after seeing it during Geneva Watch Days 2024. Now it’s ready to debut in a choice of two case finishes. The UR-150 Scorpion hosts a new movement and an enhanced complication. As always with Urwerk, it’s a feast for the eyes! During our […] Visit Stung By The New Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion! to read the full article.
Monochrome
It isn’t every day that Patek Philippe introduces an entirely new collection, especially a new range of elegant sports watches. But here it is, and it is called the Patek Philippe Cubitus. Three years after discontinuing the celebrated stainless steel blue Nautilus 5711 – or two years, if we include the farewell Olive Green and Tiffany […]
Worn & Wound
If there’s a single area of the watch world that feels truly exciting and vibrant right now, it’s the small, approachable, independent brands. I like to call them “micro-indies,” because they take elements of what made the microbrand boom so fruitful to many (direct to consumer sales, lots of creativity) and match it up with real watchmaking craft in ways you might not expect. When I got into this hobby years ago, it was common to hear various voices on the watch forums telling you that finding “real” guilloche under five figures is straight up impossible. But new brands, and new ideas, allow for all kinds of new possibilities. Atelier Wen’s Perception integrated bracelet sports watch has become an enthusiast favorite since its inception thanks to their impressive guilloche dials made by a self-taught master of his craft, all at a cost under $4,000. Atelier Wen achieves this, in large part, by embracing Chinese manufacturing, something other brands that approach this segment run away from. But that’s the beauty of the micro-indie landscape: when you rethink how to solve common watchmaking problems, you wind up with uncommon watches that are truly unique. Atelier Wen has launched their latest Perception, the Millesime 2024 Perception “Mù” at an unusual time in the brand’s history. There is more attention on watches of this ilk than ever before, and frankly it feels like there are parts of the community that are looking to shoot holes in the story At...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Check out the new Timex Deepwater Reef 200 Titanium Automatic - perhaps the brand's greatest dive watch ever with a titanium case.
Hodinkee
Most of the time, it's a slow-moving watch but once an hour, it's got a lightning-fast sting.
Hodinkee
All that glitters is gold, but these watches stay within the mold.
Worn & Wound
One of the most interesting new watches (and new brands) to surface at Geneva Watch Days this year was the Albishorn Maxigraph, made in collaboration with Massena LAB. Now, just a few months after their debut, Albishorn is back with their second effort, the Type 10. This might seem like a rapid pace for a brand to be moving at, but once you understand Albishorn’s backstory, it begins to make a little more sense. The brand is the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet, a watch industry veteran who is currently Director of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita. There are probably few individuals in the watch space better positioned to make a quick start than Sébastien, and after chatting with him briefly about his brand and his plans for it at Geneva Watch Days, it’s no surprise to see the Type 10 surface now, and it will be even less of a surprise to know that Sébastien has a an even longer term release roadmap planned out well in advance. The conceit of Albishorn, you’ll likely remember, is that of a brand that creates “vintage watches that never existed.” These are not vintage reissues, or even inspired, necessarily, by actual vintage watches. Rather, the watches that will make up the Albishorn collection will exist as thought experiments, imagining parallel histories in which a watch like the Type 10 or the Maxigraph could have been designed, but weren’t. It’s a subtle but important twist on the notion of a vintage inspired watch, and one that, I think, shoul...
Fratello
The Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal is as rare as a hen’s teeth, with only three examples known before this one. Watch purists may not accept this one because I managed to put it together from old parts. Still, everything is genuine and correct for the period. First, I encourage you to read Mike’s eight-year-old story […] Visit #TBT The Unobtanium Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
What if…? This simple statement could easily summarize what Albishorn‘s founder Sébastien Chaulmontet wants to achieve with the brand, or “Imaginary Vintage” watches as he likes to call it. Things started with the appealing Maxigraph, or what a modern regatta chronograph would have looked like in the 1930s. Now, Albishorn takes flight, and Chaulmontet creates […]
Monochrome
While the wandering satellite-hour complication remains a hallmark of Urwerk, featured in one form or another across most of the independent brand’s creations, the evolution of its designs, the inventive interpretations, and the mechanical ingenuity behind each new model is undeniably inspiring. This month, the fascinating and creative brand, led by founders Felix Baumgartner and […]
Monochrome
Introduced in 2001, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak watch turned many watchmaking conventions upside down. With no hands, no dial and no crown, the Freak was powered by an in-line movement pivoting on itself every 60 minutes to indicate the time. It was regulated by a dual direct escapement and introduced the watchmaking world to silicium (aka […]
Monochrome
Sometimes, you don’t necessarily need to reinvent the wheel to make something appealing. Sometimes, a simple twist can result in an appealing new version of a known watch. Sometimes, keeping things classic is the best. Well, this is exactly what Nomos, the Glashutte-based watchmaker with a Bauhaus twist, has decided to do by introducing two […]
Fratello
To start this article, let me ask a quick question: can an abundance of something good lead to overkill? Let me be a bit more specific. I love the Hamilton Khaki Field collection. It’s one of the watch world’s most loved and respected series. I adore multiple models, like the white-dial Khaki Field Murph, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Hamilton × Engineered Garments Khaki Field Titanium Limited Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony feels like a classic collection that has been around forever. However, you may be surprised to learn that it celebrates only its 20th anniversary this year. Still, it stands on the shoulders of much older VC creations in spirit and style, as we will see in a moment. To mark the […] Visit Celebrating 20 Years Of Patrimony With The New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora Ïto to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
If you’ve been paying any attention to H. Moser & Cie. over the last few years, one thing should be abundantly clear - the Swiss watchmaker likes to keep things simple. While they may occasionally indulge themselves with an overwhelming quantity of dial text, or acquiesce to the need for a chronograph scale, Moser has increasingly adopted a minimalist approach in their watch design, with wide open expanses of dial and invisible logos taking center stage alongside hammered enamel finishes, minute repeater strikers, and elegantly finished hands. Today, Moser is throwing all that out, and, in partnership with Massena LAB, the brand is looking back to its history for what is, in many ways, its most traditional release in years. The Endeavour Chronograph Compax would, from anyone else, barely qualify as newsworthy. After all, what brand hasn’t dipped back into the well to create a historically-minded steel sports watch in recent years? Moser hasn’t, and that’s what makes this collaboration so interesting. Even the Heritage model, the closest the brand has come to the format, isn’t so much a recreation as a reimagination, a consideration not of how to make an old watch feel new, but a thought exercise in what H. Moser & Cie. might have made were the modern brand to find themselves in a different era. This new watch is not that. Though not a direct reproduction of any particular model, the new Endeavour Chronograph Compax is a genuine reflection on Moser’s history...
Monochrome
Launched in 2018, the Faubourg de Cracovie was Czapek’s third model and first chronograph, powered by Vaucher’s sophisticated high-frequency column-wheel movement. Maintaining the brand’s spirit of modern classicism, the 41.5mm chronograph defied the canon of most sporty stopwatches by flaunting traditional guilloché dials. This autumn, Czapek releases two iterations of its chronograph with a racing-style […]
Monochrome
Founded in 1891 by the brothers Albert and Gustav Stolz in Le Locle, Angelus earned fame as a producer of chronographs. Following a period of dormancy, the brand was revived in 2015 with edgy, contemporary models that didn’t really capture the past soul of the brand. However, last year, Angelus created its La Fabrique collection, a special […]
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