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Results for Automatic Winding

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Automatic Winding

Self-winding via rotor: Perrelet 1777, Harwood 1922, Rolex Perpetual 1931, micro-rotor 1955.

Grand Seiko Just Released a Collector’s Dream Watch! Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Just Released Sep 2, 2024

Grand Seiko Just Released a Collector’s Dream Watch!

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko announced the new 9SA4 caliber and the first two watches featuring it, the SLGW002 and SLGW003. As a refresher, the 9SA4 is a manual hi-beat (36,000 bph), 80-hour, time-only caliber featuring their in-house dual-impulse escapement, first seen in the 9SA5. With a power reserve on the back of the movement, beautiful bridge designs and finishing, and a unique “wagtail-bird-shaped” winding click, it set a new bar for Grand Seiko’s mechanical calibers. But, perhaps just as exciting as the movement itself was that the watches featuring it were sized at an idyllic 38.6mm diameter and 9.95mm thickness with a 20mm lug, addressing the naysayer’s concerns around Grand Seiko’s sizing. While a pair of fantastic releases, since introduction, we have been wondering where we will see this movement next. Well, we just got our answer, and I have to tell you, I’m equally surprised and delighted. They went vintage rather than with the new case and a different dial, which would have been most expected. Yes, they decided to bring back, as a limited edition, of course, a “recreation” of the 45GS from 1968. A little history, the 45GS came out a year after the 44GS and featured the same case design, but differed in that it featured the brand’s first hi-beat manual wound movement, the 4520. The SLGW005 – the return of the 45GS The 44/45GS case defines the Grand Seiko “Grammar of Design” as set out by Taro Tanaka, with flat, Zaratsu poli...

Introducing – The Oris x LFP Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition Monochrome
Oris x LFP Divers Sixty-Five Aug 31, 2024

Introducing – The Oris x LFP Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition

Oris introduces a limited edition of its Divers Sixty-Five created in collaboration with France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP) and the National Convention of Child Protection Associations charity (CNAPE). The model chosen to promote the annual children’s football tournament is a classic 38mm Divers Sixty-Five powered by an automatic movement – not to be confused […]

First Look – Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection, a Trio of Watches With a New Perpetual Calendar Movement Monochrome
Breitling s 140th Anniversary Collection Aug 29, 2024

First Look – Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection, a Trio of Watches With a New Perpetual Calendar Movement

Founded in 1884 and celebrating its 140th anniversary this year, Breitling is no stranger to innovation and important milestones. In 1915, it launched the first wrist-worn chronograph with an independent pusher. In 1934, it patented a watch with a second independent pusher. In 1969, it participated in the creation of one of the first automatic […]

First Look – The Updated IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the First IWC with a Silicon Hairspring Monochrome
Casio n Aug 28, 2024

First Look – The Updated IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the First IWC with a Silicon Hairspring

This year, IWC brings the emblematic Portugieser collection under the spotlight, introducing several stunning new additions to the collection, including the impressive Eternal Calendar and updates to several iconic models, such as the chronograph and the 7-day Automatic. On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Shanghai, the brand unveils a new version of its Portugieser […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Vs. Tudor Black Bay Chrono Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Vs Tudor Aug 11, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Vs. Tudor Black Bay Chrono

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! Today, we return to our regular program after last week’s battle between two rather elegant and dressy chronographs. This week, we put the TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox up against Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono. Both are vintage-inspired, automatic chronographs with a modern twist, and above all, they’re stainless steel sports […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Vs. Tudor Black Bay Chrono to read the full article.

The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer in “Pogue” Colours SJX Watches
Grand Seiko First” Jul 24, 2024

The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer in “Pogue” Colours

Affordable and powered by the sun, the Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC947 is dressed in the blue, red, and orange synonymous with the vintage “Pogue” chronograph. It’s not, however, a vintage re-issue but a modern take on a vintage design. “Pogue” refers to the vintage ref. 6139 that gets its name from astronaut William Pogue, who wore one during the Skylab 4 mission in 1973, making it the first automatic chronograph in space. Initial thoughts Seiko is expert at vintage re-issues at practically every price point, from the Seiko 5 Sports “Kamen Rider” to the Grand Seiko “First”. This isn’t the case for the SSC947, which mimics the Pogue’s colours but is otherwise a modern-day Prospex Speedtimer. That’s a good thing for everyone tired of historical remakes, although traditionalists might say the SSC947 doesn’t do justice to the original that’s something of a cult classic amongst Seiko enthusiasts. But the bottom line is, the SSC947 is an appealing, different alternative to the mostly conservative colours in the Prospex Speedtimer line. And it’s priced identically to earlier versions of the watch, so it offers the same value proposition. Dressed in the “Pogue” colour scheme The “Pogue” Featuring a two-tone red and blue tachymeter bezel, the SSC947 has a radially-brushed orange dial with brown sub-dials, just like its vintage inspiration. The flange around the dial is in dark brown to match the sub-dials. The specs are otherwise i...

The Evergreens – The History of the ETA Peseux 7001, The Hand-Wound Classic That Stood the Test of Time Monochrome
Jul 19, 2024

The Evergreens – The History of the ETA Peseux 7001, The Hand-Wound Classic That Stood the Test of Time

Self-winding calibres are undeniably an advancement, especially those boasting extended autonomy. Yet, there is a timeless ritual, almost archaic, the deliberate act of winding a watch by thumb and forefinger, each click of the ratchet wheel a symphony for the discerning ear. This tactile dance, this connection to the mechanics, is a pleasure some aficionados […]

Breitling Teams Up with NBA Superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo SJX Watches
Breitling Teams Up Jul 19, 2024

Breitling Teams Up with NBA Superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo

Breitling’s latest collaboration is a pair of limited-edition Chronomats conceived together with Giannis Antetokounmpo, the Greek-Nigerian basketballer who plays for the NBA’s Milwaukee Bucks. The entry-level model is the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Giannis Antetokounmpo in stainless steel, an edition of 1,750 pieces. And then there’s the Chronomat B01 42 Giannis Antetokounmpo in 18k red gold that’s limited to 250. Both share the same dial with baton indices, finished in a green reminiscent of the Milwaukee Bucks’ team colours. And NBA superstar himself gets a unique creation: an all-red gold Chronomat B01 42 with the same green dial but with the registers and flange in contrasting white, along with Eastern-Arabic numerals (pictured above). Initial thoughts The Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are essentially identical to the respective standard Chronomat models, save for the dial colour that’s  a brighter shade of green, along with the basketballer’s discreet “GA” as the second hands counterweight. The chronograph has the addition of a basketball emblem on the seconds register. The basketball elements in the design are minimal, so the two are a good cosmetic alternative to the standard models, even for someone who doesn’t follow basketball since the sport. That’s especially so since the Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are priced the same as the standard models: the GMT costs US$6,150, while the B01 chronograph is US$42,500 on the red gold Rouleaux brac...

Raymond Weil’s Millesime Gets a Denim-Blue “Sector” Dial SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Jul 18, 2024

Raymond Weil’s Millesime Gets a Denim-Blue “Sector” Dial

Launched just last year, Raymond Weil’s “sector” dial is getting new livery with the Millesime Automatic Small Seconds Denim Blue. Not a vintage reissue per se but a modern take on a vintage-inspired design, the Millesime has a “sector” or “scientific” dial segmented into sections, subtly stepped on the periphery and frosted in the centre for a two-tone effect. The case is topped with a box-shaped sapphire crystal and narrow lugs for subtle retro charm. Initial thoughts Family-run Raymond Weil is a brand that might be familiar to watch enthusiasts but not top of mind – that’s because the brand had its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s when it was a major seller of affordable Swiss watches. Since then it has gradually fallen behind the competition with mostly unimaginative products; The New York Times describes the brand as a “mainstay of shopping malls”. With last year’s launch of the Millesime, a watch geared towards enthusiasts, the brand is trying to revive its offerings and reputation. It quickly found some success: the Millesime Small Seconds with a silver dial won the Challenge Prize (for watches retailing for less than CHF3,000) at last year’s  Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève. Near-perfect proportions at 39.5 mm in diameter and just over 10 mm high In the hand, it’s obvious the Millesime is much, much better than most recent Raymond Weil creations. Even though the design isn’t exactly original, it shows attention was paid to the de...

The Louis Vuitton Tambour One Year On: Has The Infatuation Lingered? Fratello
Louis Vuitton Tambour One Year Jul 10, 2024

The Louis Vuitton Tambour One Year On: Has The Infatuation Lingered?

This week, exactly one year has passed since the Louis Vuitton Tambour 40mm Automatic appeared in its new braceleted guise. With heavy hitters like the Polo ’79 having appeared this year, what are my thoughts on the Louis Vuitton Tambour one year on? There’s no escaping from the fact that retro and integrated bracelets are […] Visit The Louis Vuitton Tambour One Year On: Has The Infatuation Lingered? to read the full article.

Hands-on – The Revised TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date Monochrome
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date Jul 8, 2024

Hands-on – The Revised TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date

Following a complete and welcomed overhaul of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Automatic collection in 2021, last month the brand introduced its latest updated models in the series, with five new Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and three Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT versions, with captivating new dials, slightly reduced case sizes, and powered by the […]

Introducing the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC947, a Chronograph About as Close to the Classic “Pogue” as We’ve Seen Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC947 Jul 8, 2024

Introducing the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC947, a Chronograph About as Close to the Classic “Pogue” as We’ve Seen

For years, Seiko fans have been clamoring for the return of the Pogue. From all corners of the internet, enthusiasts never let an opportunity to request a reissue of Seiko’s classic sports chronograph go to waste. The Pogue, otherwise known as reference 6139-6002, is legendary, famous for being on the wrist of NASA astronaut Col. William Pogue on his flight to Skylab. The watch in question was among the first automatic chronographs and issued in a variety of colorways, but it’s Pogue’s mustard yellow dial with a red and blue bezel that is the most collectible, and certainly the Seiko chronograph most of us picture in our mind’s eye when we think “Seiko chronograph.” For reasons the community can no doubt speculate on endlessly, Seiko never has relaunched the Pogue proper, but they’ve come about as close as they ever have with their latest release, the Prospex Speedtimer reference SSC947. We’ll examine the elephant in the room right upfront: this is not a mechanical chronograph, so is perhaps not the true heir to the Pogue legend. What we have in the SSC947 is a new entry in Seiko’s popular and quite good lineup of solar powered sports chronographs. We’re pretty big fans of these watches, which offer a ton of vintage inspired style and endless practicality in a package that’s extremely approachable. The retail price is $700 for watches in this collection, and they’re sized at a versatile 41.4mm. The special sauce with the Speedtimers is really in the...

The Seiko Pogue SSC 947: Your Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jul 5, 2024

The Seiko Pogue SSC 947: Your Guide

There are some watches out there that have achieved a rare sort of infamy and the Seiko Speedtimer 6139, also known as the “Pogue,” is one such watch. It is named after Colonel William R. Pogue who wore one during NASA’s Skylab missions. It was also the first automatic chronograph to travel to space. It’s become an icon because of its historical bona fides, but also because of it’s positively ridiculous (read, charming) colorway that fits so well in the ‘70s decade in which it was conceived. Key aesthetic tenets of a Pogue are the red and blue bezel insert and a certain yellowish-gold dial. It’s the sort of gold color that’ll have you conspiracy theorizing that this watch was in the Pulp Fiction briefcase.  All of this backstory and preamble is to intentionally bury the lede and tell you that Seiko has, today, brought the Pogue back…sort of. Say hello to the Speedtimer Solar Chronograph, SSC947 which follows in the recently established design format of the solar Speedtimer range – the 41.5mm case size version of which the current Pepsi bezel SSC913 is a personal favorite. I remember when the line was announced and really loving the execution from the compact pushers to the great case size to the overall thinness due to the lack of a mechanical movement. And look, while the Pogue owes much of its fame to the fact that it housed an automatic caliber, we cannot just expect brands to issue 1:1 remakes of classic models. Seiko needs to innovate. It found a ...

First Look – The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition, Micro-Rotor Power and Vintage Look Monochrome
Yema Jun 18, 2024

First Look – The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition, Micro-Rotor Power and Vintage Look

French brand Yema keeps pushing the quality of its watches higher and higher, and the recently released updated and refined Superman Slim CMM.20, featuring a proprietary automatic micro-rotor movement, rightfully received overwhelmingly positive reviews. Today, the watchmaker from the Morteau region presents a new interpretation of the brand’s emblematic 1960s skin dive watch series, the […]

The Breitling SuperOcean Upgraded to 1,000 m SJX Watches
Breitling SuperOcean Upgraded Jun 16, 2024

The Breitling SuperOcean Upgraded to 1,000 m

Practically every brand with a significant offering of sports watches has a 1,000 m-or-deeper dive watch in its catalogue, and Breitling has one in its catalogue since 1983. The latest is the Superocean Automatic 46 Superdiver that features a titanium case water resistant to 1,000 m that also features a bezel-lock mechanism. Initial thoughts  Breitling redesigned the Superocean two years ago, giving its line of dive watches a modern aesthetic with subtle vintage-inspired elements, distinguishing it from the vintage remakes common in this segment. Superocean Superdiver retains the same styling, but in a larger, higher-spec format. For someone who likes the earlier Superocean but found it too small or 300 m too modest – this is it. As an aside, the camouflage-pattern dial is new for the Superocean line and feels unnecessary, though the pattern isn’t too obvious at a distance. Given Breitling’s regular cosmetic updates, a different dial style is likely on the cards. Though the priciest Superocean at US$6,300 on a strap, the Superdiver is still equipped with an ETA 2892. That’s adequate but not really competitive at this price point given the superior movements found in most competing watches. The black variant with its rubber strap More variety Having recently expanded three of its signature collections - Navitimer, AVI, and Avenger - Breitling now does the same for the Superocean, its longstanding line of dive watches. The current-generation Superocean draws ins...

Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jun 13, 2024

Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review

There is no doubt that most enthusiasts think of the brand Zenith and picture, in their mind’s eye, a chronograph – a chronograph powered by the now storied El Primero automatic chronograph movement which debuted in 1969. Triple use of the word chronograph in one sentence notwithstanding, it punctuates the kind of watch associated with this powerhouse of a brand. And 1969 was a monumental year for automatic chronographs. But it was also the year Zenith introduced its punchy, ready for the 1970s, and decidedly orange dive watch: The Defy A3648. Yes, a Zenith diver was released the same year as the El Primero…and the latter clearly took off on a trajectory far different from that of its aquatic counterpart. Vintage Zenith A3648 from around the time of the watch's launch. Over the past decade or so, Zenith has proven itself to be unmatched in the watch game when it comes to revivals, homages, re-editions, whatever you like to call them (Zenith literally calls them “Revivals” so we will too). Some Zenith Revival models are modern riffs on vintage designs, with slight tweaks, while others are near 1:1 recreations. Think back to the Defy Revival models of the past two years, with both black and ruby dial options. Those were authentic recreations down to the vintage-style clasps (an under-looked component of homage, if you ask me!). At Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith returned to the 1969 well and brought its spunky orange dive watch back to life in the form of the De...

Louis Vuitton Returns to the Escale Wristwatch SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Returns Jun 11, 2024

Louis Vuitton Returns to the Escale Wristwatch

Louis Vuitton is steadily rebuilding its watch collecting, reorienting the offerings towards more designs with thoughtful details and decoration. Having already redesigned the Tambour, the brand now debuts the Escale Time-Only Automatic. Returning to a case design that’s been in the Louis Vuitton catalogue for well over the decade, the new Escale is a no-frills three-hander with discreet references to the brand’s trunks incorporated into the aesthetic. Initial thoughts I’ve long been a fan of the Escale case – we covered the Escale Worldtime over a decade ago – because it is simple, distinctive, and wears well. The signature Escale models in the past, however, were world time models with extravagantly multicoloured dials. The aesthetic was typical, over-the-top Louis Vuitton. I liked them, a lot in fact, but they were not for everyone, and certainly not easily legible. The new Escale, on the other hand, is a practical watch that is legible but thoughtfully designed with discreet details that evoke Louis Vuitton’s trunks. It retains the same case but with a discreet, three-hand dial. Extravagant it is not, but it has wider appeal. Inside is the same LFT023 found in the Tambour, so movement-wise it has the same strengths and weaknesses. The movement is thin and attractively styled, but could do with more refined details, like the regulator index for instance. Though not perfect (or entirely in-house), the LFT023 compares well against the ETA 2892 found in the ori...