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Italian Indie Gagà Laboratorio Introduces Two New References Worn & Wound
Jun 9, 2025

Italian Indie Gagà Laboratorio Introduces Two New References

We covered the introduction of Gagà Laboratorio back in August of last year, and have remained curious about how this new independent brand with Italian roots would evolve. Their first models, the Labormatic Bauhaus and Labormatic Cinquanta, paired a highly considered case design defined by dramatically flared lugs with a creative timetelling format that riffs heavily on the classic jump hour. Each watch represented the flipside of the same coin: the Bauhaus subtle and minimal, the Cinquanta more light and colorful. The brand’s latest releases are a new pair of Labormatics that follow a similar theme.  First up, the Labormatic Champagne. This watch was conceived as something of a counterpoint to the minimalist design ethos of the Bauhaus model. The Champagne, as the name of the watch implies, is celebratory where the Bauhaus is subdued, trading clean and cold grays for vibrant gold tones, including deeply textured dial base. On this reference, as with the Bauhaus, time is told via a digital hours window at the 12:00 position and an analog minute display.  Gagà Laboratorio has also introduced the Labormatic Azzuro, which can be understood as a complement to last year’s Cinquanta. Both watches are inspired by Italian design from the 1950s, which was a notably colorful period following the tumult of World War II. The pastel blue tones seen here look great with the rich, wine red chosen for the stylized Arabic numerals in the hour and minute tracks. Once again, the hou...

J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure SJX Watches
Hamilton shut down Jun 4, 2025

J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure

J.N. Shapiro’s Infinity Series Pure is a new entry point into the American brand. This follows the top-of-the-line Resurgence, the most American-made mechanical wristwatch built since Hamilton shut down in the 1960s. This new model focuses purely on the dial and hands, which are excellent, while trusting Swiss suppliers with ancillary details like the case and caliber. The result is a much more accessible, though less impressive, watch than J.N. Shapiro’s usual fare. Initial Thoughts When the original Infinity line was discontinued in 2023, it left the brand without an entry-level watch, and the company put all of its efforts behind the ambitious Resurgence project. Now that things have settled down, the team once again has the bandwidth to support a second model. The Infinity Series Pure uses an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret (LJP) movement. While a good, slim movement with an extended power reserve, the LJP F200/7380 isn’t particularly premium, and a downgrade from the UWD cal. 33.1 used in previous infinity models. For example, Ralph Lauren uses the LJP movement in its Vintage 67 line priced at around US$3,000. The case is also outsourced, likely to a Swiss manufacturer, through the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a consortium of independent brands that J.N. Shapiro helped found. This focuses all of Shapiro’s attention on the dial and hands, though both are significantly less complex than on the Resurgence. At US$26,000 the Infinity Series Pure is about a ...

The Entry-Level Ulysse Nardin Freak Gains a Grand Feu Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak Gains Jun 4, 2025

The Entry-Level Ulysse Nardin Freak Gains a Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Ulysse Nardin gives its most affordable Freak a new look with a blue flinqué enamel dial and rose gold case. The brand has launched three other Freaks with enamel dials over the past two years, but all were small-run, retailer-exclusive limited editions. The Freak X Gold Enamel, on the other hand, is not retailer-specific and will be limited to 120 examples. The watch puts Ulysse Nardin’s investments in silicon fabrication and dial making to good use, and with good results. The combination of traditional métiers d’art with state-of-the-art technology also makes it more approachable to traditionalists than a typical Freak. Initial Thoughts Even as it nears 25 years on the market, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak remains avant-garde in aesthetics and technology. The Freak looks and feels like a small-batch concept watch, rather than the collection staple it’s become. It’s hard to believe you can walk into a retailer and walk out with something like this from a major Swiss brand for less than six figures. A rarely mentioned refinement is the use of clear sapphire jewels, rather than the typical reddish-purple rubies. It’s rare for brands to harmonize jewel colors with the rest of the watch, but it always results in a more cohesive look. Besides striking looks, its also a surprisingly practical watch, with a reasonably sized case, respectable lume, and 50 m water resistance. Overall, a well-rounded package, though the US$10,300 premium for the enamel dial over the regular ...

Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Souscription Breguet got May 30, 2025

Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription

Breguet got off to a good start for its 250th anniversary with the Classique Souscription, which despite being not an entirely new model in technical terms, is arguably the best watch the brand has launched in years, perhaps reflecting the influence of a new chief executive. Powered by a calibre based on the longstanding Tradition movement, the one-handed Classique Souscription marries an atypical (for Breguet) 20th century case with a dial inspired by 19th century pocket watches – resulting in a surprisingly coherent creation that still feels quintessentially Breguet. Initial thoughts I was pleasantly surprised by the Classique Souscription. Breguet managed to take a familiar model and transform it into something different and appealing. The brand didn’t manage to do the same with the second anniversary model, which is essentially a rehash of the Tradition but with an enamel dial. Sized just right, the Classique Souscription feels like it was conceived by an enthusiast with knowledge of vintage watches; the red leather-covered presentation box underlines that. The design is simple overall, but enhanced with details like a sharply finished single hand and “secret signature” engraved the old fashion way. The form of the case is clearly early to mid 20th century, while the dial evokes the original Souscription pocket watch. Although the case and dial styles are 150 years apart, they complement each other almost perfectly; the result still looks very much like a Breg...

Hands On: Rolex Daytona “Turquoise Blue” Ref. 126518LN SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona “Turquoise Blue” Ref May 30, 2025

Hands On: Rolex Daytona “Turquoise Blue” Ref. 126518LN

At Watches & Wonders 2025, all eyes were on Rolex. But the polarising Land-Dweller grabbed most of the headlines, relegating new versions of existing models, including the mighty Cosmograph Daytona Turquoise Blue ref. 126518LN, to second billing. Regardless, the Daytona remains one of the most iconic watches in the industry and its inherent quality makes any new version worthy of a close look. In this case, those who probed the depths of the Rolex catalogue were rewarded with the unusual combination of an 18k yellow gold case and a turquoise lacquer “Stella” dial. (And those lucky enough would have seen the “off-catalogue” Daytona ref. 126538TBR with an actual turquoise stone dial and diamond-set case.) Initial thoughts Let’s just say this was not love at first sight. I initially found this new colourway overly garish, but I am a sucker for turquoise, whether natural stone or, in this case, lacquer, so the look has grown on me over time. I think I’d have preferred a different treatment for the sub-dials, which to my eye dull the vibrancy of the turquoise, but this is a subjective critique of an objectively well-made watch. Dial colour aside, the new Daytona benefits from the model’s 60th anniversary updates rolled out two years ago, including the gold rim for the ceramic bezel. The case offers roughly ideal proportions for a sporty chronograph, 40 mm in diameter and around 12 mm thick. It also comes equipped with the brand’s rubberised Oysterflex bracelet, ...

Introducing – The New Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve in 3D Carbon Monochrome
Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day May 27, 2025

Introducing – The New Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve in 3D Carbon

Following the detonation of Hublot’s extroverted Big Bang chronograph in 2005, the collection gradually expanded with several sub-families unified by their bold designs and distinctive fusion of materials. A couple of these sub-collections, like the Spirit of Big Bang with its tonneau-shaped case and the more recent Square Bang, departed from the round shape of […]

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in Crystallized Titanium SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier May 23, 2025

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in Crystallized Titanium

Initially launched as a unique piece in a crystallized titanium case for Only Watch 2023, the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph was then added to the catalog, most recently as a limited edition in ceramic. Now the model returns in its original crystallized titanium livery, accented in lime green. Under the hood is a high-beat Vaucher chronograph movement, also used by Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille. The split-seconds is the flagship of the Monaco collection, impressive inside and out – with a price to match – but seemingly runs counter to the brand’s established direction of affordable sports watches. Initial Thoughts The latest iteration of the Monaco split-seconds is the best yet, price aside. The variants of the model released between the one-off for Only Watch and this felt incomplete without the crystallized titanium case. The material is visually and technically interesting, and its resemblance to forged carbon fits the automotive theme; lime green accents notwithstanding, it’s a good-looking watch. Image – TAG Heuer A rattrapante is a natural fit for an auto racing-focused brand like TAG Heuer, but the ambitious CHF145,000 price is confusing, given TAG Heuer’s efforts toward making the Swiss-made tourbillon affordable. The Monaco split-seconds itself is excellent – the movement especially so – but an affordable rattrapante would be more in line with the brand’s recent direction. While the base movement is shared with costlier Richar...

Hands-On With The New Certina DS Action Diver 40.5mm Fratello
Certina DS Action Diver 40.5mm May 23, 2025

Hands-On With The New Certina DS Action Diver 40.5mm

Today, we go hands-on with a new Certina. The DS Action Diver 40.5mm is a significant release for the brand because it presents a new case size. In fact, most would argue that it will end up as the most successful model in the collection. Let’s take a closer look and discuss the merits of […] Visit Hands-On With The New Certina DS Action Diver 40.5mm to read the full article.

Tudor Pelagos 39 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor May 21, 2025

Tudor Pelagos 39 Review

Back in 2012, Tudor unveiled its action-ready diver, capable of surviving depths up to a whopping 500 meters (that’s over 1,640 feet) with the Pelagos. To achieve that extensive depth rating, for many, the necessary tradeoff came with the 42mm sizing that the Pelagos debuted, which is the caveat made with the inclusion of a helium escape valve to make the case more secure in deeper diving excursions. In the years since its release, Tudor has riffed upon the Pelagos in various ways, even including teaming up with the French Marine Nationale to create the FXD extension on the line, and recently, throwing in a GMT complication into the mix. And let's not forget this year's Pelagos Ultra. But we are gathered here today to take a good, long look at the Pelagos many asked for, with the more versatile-sized Tudor Pelagos 39. Despite listening to the audience and essentially delivering what they ordered on a silver platter, the Pelagos 39mm has largely remained in the shadow of the brand’s golden child, the Black Bay 58. When comparing the two, there’s a lot of common ground between the two watches on the surface: they’re of comparable size (the Pelagos 39mm is actually .1mm slimmer), identical levels of water resistance at 200m, and the price difference between the two is under $1,000, which doesn’t seem incredibly significant given the Pelagos 39mm is all in Titanium, which always more costly. So, what is the secret sauce that the Black Bay 58 has that the Pelagos lack...

Zenith Introduces a Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar with a Lapis Lazuli Dial Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces May 21, 2025

Zenith Introduces a Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar with a Lapis Lazuli Dial

One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (and one of the best watches Zenith has made in years, in my opinion) was the G.F.J., a study in blue and a celebration of the brand’s 160th anniversary. The G.F.J. is something of a no-expenses-spared dream watch, with a platinum case and optional bracelet that basically doubles the price (because why not?) as well as a finely finished movement and loads of history built into the watch’s story, with a focus on the brand’s historic pursuits in chronometry. When I had that watch on my wrist I wondered how the G.F.J. line might expand, and if this watch was an opening salvo in a more ambitious series of releases to come. I don’t know that we have any answers to those questions, necessarily, with the release of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli today, but there’s certainly some connective tissue between Zenith’s newest novelty and the G.F.J. we saw a few months ago.  Looking at the latest Zenith Triple Calendar, it’s impossible not to notice a certain aesthetic similarity to the G.F.J. Both make prominent use of lapis lazuli, one of the most common precious stones used in watchmaking. On the G.F.J., lapis is what makes up the majority of the dial space, with the stone in the main dial nicely complementing the blue mother of pearl in the subsidiary seconds. On this new Triple Calendar, the lapis is truly the star of the show, dominating the dial and only yielding for the three subregisters i...

First Look – The New Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar May 21, 2025

First Look – The New Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli

Zenith‘s Triple Calendar model is based on the compact 38mm case of the Chronomaster Original, itself modelled after the 1969 El Primero reference A386. This reference provides a balanced and wearable foundation for a relatively complex movement. Initially launched in stainless steel (2024) and subsequently in rose gold (2025), Zenith has decided that it was […]

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Mini Tapisserie Clous De Paris Fratello
Gerald Charles May 20, 2025

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Mini Tapisserie Clous De Paris

Gerald Charles has rolled out a steady slate of releases in support of its 25th anniversary. Among these debuts are new versions of the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph, which feature métiers d’art in the form of tapisserie Clous de Paris dials. The releases also include two case materials. I spent time at the Gerald Charles booth […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Mini Tapisserie Clous De Paris to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Surprising Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar - Celebrating The Brand’s 30th Anniversary With A 40mm Watch Fratello
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar - May 17, 2025

Hands-On With The Surprising Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar - Celebrating The Brand’s 30th Anniversary With A 40mm Watch

Possibly one of the most unexpected novelties released during this year’s Watches and Wonders was a double-retrograde calendar watch with a 40mm pink gold case. Now, a timepiece of that size, in that material, and with that complication - I mean no disrespect to double-retrograde indications - doesn’t sound too surprising when you think of […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprising Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar - Celebrating The Brand’s 30th Anniversary With A 40mm Watch to read the full article.

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces May 17, 2025

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035

Having already revealed the Tradition “Souscription” as the first watch for its 250th anniversary, Breguet has just launched the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035. Essentially a throwback to a first-generation Tradition model, the new 7035 is set apart by its flinque enamel dial, a first for the Tradition collection. And unlike the regular-production Souscription, the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde is limited to 250 pieces. Initial thoughts While the Classique Souscription is eminently traditional (despite its case style), the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde feels more traditional Breguet with a style that is more typical of the brand’s current offerings. The enamel dial is a good way of rebooting the Tradition, which is now two decades old. And the watch itself is beautiful and still Breguet in style. However, this is arguably less interesting than the Souscription, because its only point of difference is the grand feu enamel dial for the time. Dial aside, it’s basically the preceding model in new dress. Breguet does have more in store for its 250th anniversary than a pair of Tradition models, so it’ll be worth keeping an eye on the brand as the year progresses. Tradition throwback The new Tradition is a variant of one of the first models in the collection, but upgraded with an enamel dial. The solid gold dial is decorated in flinque enamel, which is fired translucent enamel over engine turning in the Quai de l’Horloge pattern, which was developed for Breguet’...

Ming Introduces the New 29.01 “Midnight” Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Ming May 14, 2025

Ming Introduces the New 29.01 “Midnight” Worldtimer

Ming has announced their latest release, a follow up to the 29.01 Worldtimer which launched in 2023. The new 29.01 Midnight is conceived as the flipside to the original, which was presented in titanium with a blue/black gradient dial. The new watch is a blacked out version, with a DLC coating on the titanium case, and a black dial with layers of sapphire and, as we often see with Ming, loaded with lume. The release follows a bit of a pattern we saw with the 37.09, which debuted with the bright and colorful Bluefin about one year ago, and saw a darker sibling emerge several months later with the Uni. The colorway of the 29.01 Midnight is, in fact, directly lifted from the Uni, providing yet another connection between Ming watch families.  The 29.01 is one of my personal favorite examples of Ming’s higher end, haute horlogery offerings, as the worldtimer format really allows the brand to flex a bit. While I think many probably associate Ming with a certain strain of minimalism, the 29.01, by necessity, is throwing a lot at you, and it’s a great accomplishment on Ming’s part that the watch is able to communicate so much so clearly.  Here’s how it works. The cities representing the world’s time zones are printed on a sapphire upper dial. Below that, a metal base dial with a very subtle grained finish has the 24 hour scale printed on it. Throughout the day, the base dial rotates so that the 24 hour scale lines up with the correct time in each world city, hour by hou...

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Rose Gold SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton has been making inroads May 14, 2025

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Rose Gold

The recently resurrected Daniel Roth brand has added a second regular production model to its catalogue, the Extra Plat Rose Gold. It’s powered by the same DR002 movement found in the Extra Plat Souscription, a 20-piece limited edition in yellow gold with a solid case back, now with a sapphire case back to show off the handsome, shaped calibre inside. Image – Daniel Roth Initial Thoughts It’s no secret that Louis Vuitton has been making inroads into independent watchmaking, through collaborations with leading independents and the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. Louis Vuitton has taken a more direct approach by reviving one of the first modern independents, and it seems to have paid off. Ironically, despite being the product of a luxury giant, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat is comparable to many offerings from niche makers, which can be seen as praise of the former or reproval of the latter. Image – Daniel Roth In another contradiction, the Extra Plat’s 7.7 mm height isn’t exactly extra-flat by the standards of a two-hand, manually wound dress watch. For comparison, the original Extra Plat Automatic from 1990 was 6.7 mm thick, and the manual version was only 6 mm. This can be attributed to the new movement, which is thicker than those in historical Extra Plat models, but constructed and finished to a much higher standard, while also being an in-house calibre (the originals were powered by Frederic Piguet). Image – Daniel Roth The new regular production has more mainst...

Vacheron Constantin’s First Chiming Sports Watch, the Overseas Grand Complication SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s First Chiming Sports May 13, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s First Chiming Sports Watch, the Overseas Grand Complication

Vacheron Constantin (VC) continues its 270th anniversary festivities with its first minute-repeating sports watch, the Overseas Grand Complication Openface. In addition to the repeater, the manually wound movement also features a perpetual calendar, tourbillon, and rear-facing power reserve indicator. All of this is housed in a titanium case rated to 30 m, which is a notable degree of water resistance for a chiming watch. This is also the first Overseas model with the “Openface” treatment, which pays homage to rock crystal dials found in vintage clocks and pocket watches with a clear sapphire dial exposing the perpetual calendar works. Image – Vacheron Constantin Initial Thoughts It’s unusual, but a chiming sports watch makes sense considering the direction of consumer preferences for complications. That said, the minute repeater has been slow to make its way into sports watches, despite enjoying renewed popularity for the past few decades, due to the challenges of waterproofing the charging slide and preserving sound quality. This has created a perception of water resistance and sound being mutually exclusive, which has only recently been challenged. Audemars Piguet was an early pioneer with water-resistant repeaters, and now Vacheron Constantin has entered the fray with a water-resistant minute-repeating integrated-bracelet sports watch of its own. While 30 m of water resistance is low compared to other models in the Overseas collection, it’s significant for a ...

Hands-On: the Ace Jewelers x Cedric Bellon CB01 Small Seconds Worn & Wound
May 12, 2025

Hands-On: the Ace Jewelers x Cedric Bellon CB01 Small Seconds

When is a watch more than a watch? It honestly sounds like a pretty dumb question, but it’s a question that I just asked myself when writing about the Cedric Bellon CB01 – a grade 5 titanium watch that’s just as much a watch as it is a case study in sustainability. I’ll admit, when I first laid eyes on the watch, I thought it looked very raw, almost unfinished. Upon closer inspection and a deeper dive into the brand itself, it started to click. The CB01 is a joint partnership between Watch Angels (a crowd funding platform), Ace Jewelers (an Amsterdam-based retailer) and Cedric Bellon (a watch designer) – by their powers combined, this watch is good for the planet! Captain Planet jokes aside, the CB01 is a 40mm titanium watch that features a mix of finishing techniques, an interesting movement, and very wrist-friendly dimensions. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at this collaboration that aims to bring sustainability to your wrist in a big way.  Case Measuring in at 40mm wide by 47mm lug-to-lug, the CB01 is a nice fit for my 6.75” wrist. The case is crafted from repurposed titanium. At first, I thought that repurposed was synonymous with recycled, but it’s not. The core belief behind this watch design is that when possible, materials from other productions will be used for this project. So maybe there was too much material ordered for another project that can be used here, having the watch achieve a higher “circularity score”. The principle behind ci...