Results for De Bethune

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SJX Watches

F.P. Journe believed Aug 22, 2024

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F;

Proving recent rumours to be true, MB&F; has just announced that Chanel now owns 25% of the company. The terms of the deal were not disclosed but it is likely that the valuation of the independent watchmaker not far from the CHF120 million mark. Though meaningful in the context of independent watchmaker, it is a small investment for Chanel, which had 2023 revenues of almost US$20 billion. MB&F; will continue to be controlled by founder Maximilian Büsser (above left), who pares his stake down to 60% stake, while his longtime deputy, Serge Kriknoff, continues with a 15% share in the brand best known for its sculptural, sci-fi creations. The pair were the only shareholders in the brand prior to the Chanel investment. The MB&F; HM11 A major player behind the scenes With its MB&F; investment, Chanel continues to grow its presence in watchmaking, particularly independent watchmaking. The stake in MB&F; follows on Chanel’s investment in F.P. Journe (believed to be about a quarter), and about a half share in Romain Gauthier. Chanel has also long owned a substantial stake in Bell & Ross, as well as a quarter of movement maker Kenissi. Add to those Chanel’s holdings in the watchmaking supply chain, and the result is a luxury group that has a substantial and growing player in watchmaking. Chanel’s watch and jewellery chief, Frédéric Grangié, said the investment in MB&F; “is part of our long-term strategy to continue to preserve, develop and invest in specialist know-how and...

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Fratello

Aug 22, 2024

Is There A Future For The Brick-And-Mortar Multi-Brand Watch Dealer?

It’s no secret that the number of authorized multi-brand dealers for big watch companies has decreased significantly in the last decade. Only the large(r) chains, such as Wempe, Bucherer, Watches of Switzerland, and some local ones, seem to keep their portfolios secure with the big groups and brands. The traditional “mom-and-pop” jewelers are vanishing from […] Visit Is There A Future For The Brick-And-Mortar Multi-Brand Watch Dealer? to read the full article.

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Time+Tide

Tissot brings two 1970s legends Aug 22, 2024

Tissot brings two 1970s legends together with the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer

The PRX Robot Grendizer stands to entice a whole new audience to one of the strongest entry-level mechanical watches.The post Tissot brings two 1970s legends together with the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005 Aug 22, 2024

Up Close: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005

Following the 2022 debut of its first ever tourbillon – and the brand’s most complicated watch ever – Grand Seiko follows up this year with the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005 “Daybreak”. Mechanically identical to its predecessor (the SLGT003), the new Kodo still boasts a co-axial tourbillon and remontoir, a novel construction unique to the Kodo. But the Kodo SLGT005 is dressed in brighter colours of silver tones and pale greys, hence the “Daybreak” nickname. The result is a watch that’s less aggressively technical in style, but just as complicated. And thanks to its lighter palette, the technicality and decoration of the movement are arguably more prominent in the Kodo “Daybreak”. Initial thoughts The Kodo in its original form had a strikingly skeletonised appearance that maximised the view of its intricate mechanics, giving something of an anime sci-fi aesthetic. This was accentuated by the dark colours highlighted with vivid, dark red rubies. The new version, on the other hand, is both lighter in colour and visual weight. Because there’s less colour contrast in the movement, it appears a bit more classical and less stylised. A clever touch are the blue jewels to replace the conventional red ruby bearings, which enhances the “daylight” theme. The original Kodo SLGT003 from 2022 Even though it looks different, the Kodo SLGT005 is identical in technical terms. So it still has the impressively constructed movement with a novel approach to t...

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Monochrome

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Grendizer/Goldorak Aug 22, 2024

First Look – Get Ready For Action With The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Grendizer/Goldorak (Incl. Video)

This is not the first time 1970s pop culture has come to life on a watch dial, and it’s likely not to be the last time. There’s just something appealing about past icons, and reviving them in relation to watches is common practice. One such watch to get this type of makeover is the Tissot […]

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Fratello

Zenith Aug 22, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- Mike’s Picks From Nomos, Zenith, And JLC

I live in a world where €10,000 isn’t throwaway money. However, I was researching a list of my favorite watches under this magic threshold, and something dawned on me. The world has changed, and while I’ve been living in it, I’ve slept through the fact that many watches cost significantly more than this. At first, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- Mike’s Picks From Nomos, Zenith, And JLC to read the full article.

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Fratello

Aug 22, 2024

Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Wishes And Predictions

Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks! If you’re listening to this latest episode on the day of its release, then Geneva Watch Days 2024 is just a week away. Today, Nacho, Lex, and Thomas gather around the mics to discuss the event and make some wishes and predictions about what they’d like to see from […] Visit Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Wishes And Predictions to read the full article.

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Fratello

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Aug 21, 2024

Hands-On: The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar And Panorama Date Moon Phase

Today, we’ll go hands-on with two lovely Glashütte Original references from the Senator Excellence series. The first is a stainless steel Perpetual Calendar, and the second is a red gold model with moonphase and date complications. Both share elegant designs and legible dials. Only two weeks ago, I had the opportunity to review the Glashütte […] Visit Hands-On: The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar And Panorama Date Moon Phase to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound

Urwerk s Legendary EMC Aug 21, 2024

Urwerk’s Legendary EMC is Back in a Limited Edition Inspired by the SR-71 Blackbird

Ahead of Geneva Watch Days next week, Urwerk has unveiled what will surely be in the running for “Watch of the Year” talk when 2024 comes to a close. The EMC SR-71 is a new variation of one of the independent brand’s most discussed and honored timepieces. The original EMC, introduced ten years ago, is a former winner of the GPHG prizes in both the “Mechanical Exception” and “Innovation” categories. Even within the strange world of Urwerk, the EMC is an oddity, so it’s always exciting to see them return to this platform with a new variant.  EMC stands for Electronic Mechanical Control, a term that seems to contradict itself but actually does a fantastic job of describing exactly what this watch does. What you need to know about how this watch operates is that the traditional time telling functions (hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve) all operate mechanically. But integrated into the movement is an optical sensor linked to the balance that, on demand, can record the rate at which it is oscillating. Using light and an integrated circuit, the movement will tell you the delta between the timing rate of the mechanical movement and a reference oscillator (a 16,000,000 Hz mega-quartz oscillator in this case). Pressing a button on the side of the case activates a meter at roughly 10:00, telling you how fast or slow your watch is running. What’s more, the watch is equipped with a timing adjustment screw on the caseback that can be accessed by the owner wit...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Unimatic Aug 21, 2024

Unimatic Watches Guide

Like so many of the modern breed of start-up, independent watchmaking companies, Unimatic traces its origin to a pair of friends with a shared passion for timepieces and an entrepreneurial spirit. Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato met as industrial design students at Politecnico di Milano, Italy’s largest technical university. Moro’s father had been a watch collector, and after designing his first watch as a lark while working at a furniture company, Moro connected with Nunziato to collaborate on the watch that became the Modello Uno U1-A, which launched in 2015 and essentially became the foundation of the Unimatic brand, its name a portmanteau of the Latin “unico” for unique, and “matic,” for willing or able. The Unimatic U1-A from 2015 The U1-A, which quickly sold out, was a classical dive watch with a 40mm round case, a flat, black dial; simple shaped indexes; a black bezel insert with a 60-minute scale and a lumed dot; and a Seiko movement. Its follow-up, the U1-B, was even more streamlined, dropping the minute scale from the bezel. Both the original models set the parameters for every one that followed: each Unimatic watch is pressure-tested to 300 meters of water resistance and designed and cased in Italy; each watch is individually numbered, and the design ethos driving them all is a function-forward, tool-oriented aesthetic. Today, Unimatic watches comprise dozens of models and include not only the divers that brought the brand to the table but also fie...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Aug 21, 2024

Hands-on – The Wait Is Over, As Kallinich Claeys Have Finished Their Marvelous Einser Zentralsekunde

Almost two years ago, we published a story about two young and talented watchmakers coming out of A. Lang & Söhne to set up shop for themselves. Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys, founders of the Kallinich Claeys watchmaking atelier, were hard at work to develop and build their first watch, the Einser Zentralsekunde. On paper, […]

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Worn & Wound

Aug 21, 2024

Hands-On: the Zealandic Iceborne

Maybe it’s just me but I find the micro and independent watch world to be utterly fascinating. And it is so for many reasons, one being the sheer variety of options we have for all genres of watches which are available at a wide variety of prices. From GMTs and elegant dressy models to divers and field watches. And there are indeed many options to choose from in all of these categories. One of my favorite things about watch writing is bringing readers stories on the little guys, so I’m therefore pleased to be writing this article to tell you about the just released Zealandic Iceborne. A new brand founded in New Zealand by Derek Chuan whose project I’ve been following for the past two years now, so it’s nice to be able to get my hands on the prototypes.  Derek has been working on this project for longer than I have known him. And his idea of creating a watch which represents New Zealand has been on par with the recent trends of endowing watches with textured and nature-inspired dials. Between you and me, Derek has been working on this long before many other brands probably have. And this is just to say that the Iceborne has been a long time in the making and I believe it shows. Both from a visual perspective as well as from a spec sheet one. The Iceborne has a look of its own and it is made of the right stuff to be a proper field and adventure watch. It will be made available via a Kickstarter campaign at the introductory price of $441 USD.  $483 Hands-On: the Zea...

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SJX Watches

Urwerk Marks 10 Years Aug 21, 2024

Urwerk Marks 10 Years of the EMC with the SR-71

Urwerk’s highly technical and unique approach to watchmaking is captured in the EMC SR-71, a limited edition of 10 pieces to mark the 10th anniversary of a model that has a built-in user-regulation device. This edition boasts a special and tangible link to military aviation with a crank handle from alloy retrieved from the fuselage of an SR-71 “Blackbird”, the famous Cold War-era, supersonic spy plane. Initial thoughts Although sci-fi and even extravagant in terms of mechanics, materials, and shapes, Urwerk timepiece have a certain hyper-functional, instrument-like quality to them. Trademark features like the “oil change” indicator make its watches feel like actual pieces of machinery. The original EMC was launched in 2014 as an endeavour in blending traditional watchmaking with contemporary electronics and micro computing technology. Though advanced, the EMC complication is esoteric and never really gained traction. However, for a specific niche of watch geeks and nerds, the EMC is an intriguing and original idea. The bit of an SR-71 “Blackbird” in the watch adds to the geeky appeal without being too gimmicky. The EMC is not the only watch with a piece of the SR-71 in it – in fact other such watches are mostly far less expensive – but it is certainly the most advanced and innovative. The Blackbird connection Fundamentally identical in terms of function and mechanics, the EMC SR-71 is special because it features components made from an alloy recast from t...

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Fratello

Mido Aug 21, 2024

Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition In Stealthy Black

For the new Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition, the brand decided to release a black PVD version. At first, this might be surprising due to the Decompression Timer’s colorful dial. If you think about it a little longer, though, it makes sense. The black overall aesthetic ensures that the dial truly pops. […] Visit Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition In Stealthy Black to read the full article.

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WatchAdvice

Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Aug 21, 2024

Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV

In this review, I get a hold of the fourth Aquis rendition commemorating one of Australia’s greatest natural wonders! But is it truly a standout? Let’s find out! What We Love: Dial is unique yet elegant and possibly timeless Wears extremely well Supremely capable movement for the price point What We Don’t: Uniquely coloured dials are always a point of caution Can it come in any smaller sizes? The price point is contentious Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Everyone loves a bit of independence in their lives. Having your own slice of agency signals freedom to do whatever you please – like buying watches, for example – without having to worry too much about the consequences.  But, of course, it’s not that simple. Agency, and by association freedom, can be an elusive thing, which is why we oftentimes find ourselves getting attached to characters, products and brands associated with the idea of finding freedom. Not everyone can break the Matrix like Neo, ‘Just Do It’ like Nike or beat up their boss like Stone Cold Steve Austin, so we live vicariously through those that operate, or are perceived to be operating, on an independent level. In the watch industry, Oris is one of the finest examples of freedom and independence in watchmaking. Having followed their slogan to “Go Their Own Way” since 1904, their perception of freedom is conveyed through their dedication to independent design, techn...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Urwerk EMC Gets Aug 21, 2024

Introducing – The Complex Urwerk EMC Gets A Stealthy SR-71 ‘Blackbird’ Makeover

Flying higher, longer and faster than any aircraft that came before it, the Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird is a legendary marvel of engineering. So much so, that it still inspires people to this day. People like Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, the gifted duo behind the hyper-technical independent watchmaker Urwerk. Their latest is the EMC SR-71, […]

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Fratello

Rolex surprised us all when Aug 21, 2024

Comparing Green-Bezel, Black-Dial Subs: 16610LV “Kermit” Vs. 126610LV “Starbucks”

Rolex surprised us all when the brand launched a Submariner with a green bezel in 2003. The stainless steel Sub was steadily monochromatic during the five preceding decades, so this was a bit of a shocker. The model was soon nicknamed “Kermit.” More than two decades later, it seems green is here to stay. We […] Visit Comparing Green-Bezel, Black-Dial Subs: 16610LV “Kermit” Vs. 126610LV “Starbucks” to read the full article.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Longines Spirit Flyback Presented last Aug 21, 2024

Introducing – Steel-and-Gold and Gradient Dials for the Longines Spirit Flyback

Presented last year by Longines as the flagship model in its recent pilot-oriented collection, the Spirit Flyback paid tribute to an important function for the brand, the retour-en-vol chronograph. While the authorship of the flyback complication is a topic that is still discussed, the winged hourglass brand produced its first model equipped with a flyback […]

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Fratello

Longines Spirit Flyback Aug 21, 2024

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Flyback In Steel And Gold, Green, And Brown

Since its introduction in 2020, the Longines Spirit collection has become very popular. That’s understandable due to its modern design and great finishing. It also helps that many different versions cater to anyone’s needs. In 2023, Longines added a Spirit Flyback alongside its regular Spirit Chronograph. Upon its release, the Spirit Flyback was available in […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Spirit Flyback In Steel And Gold, Green, And Brown to read the full article.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Aug 21, 2024

Microbrands vs. Independent Watchmakers: The Rise of (Relatively Affordable) Microbrands

In recent years, several factors have come together resulting in the exponential rise of microbrand watches. This new microbrand wave is one of the biggest developments in the broader watch market. I would mention here that not all microbrands are equal. There are many watches out there that, to be honest, are not worth your time. However, some microbrands are getting it right as Raman Kalra highlights here.

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Worn & Wound

Ming Aug 20, 2024

Ming Introduces the Latest Watch from their Special Projects Cave, the Solid Gold 20.01 Series 3

Ming is a brand that tends to elicit strong reactions from enthusiasts. They are certainly not to everyone’s taste, but those who love the brand really love the brand and are among the most enthusiastic collectors I’ve encountered in the watch world. I’ll be honest, Ming’s house aesthetic is typically not for me, personally, but I’ve gained a tremendous amount of respect for the brand as I’ve had a chance to talk to more owners about they find these watches so interesting. A big part of it, as it always seems to be, is the community built around that ownership experience. That community reveals itself in a public way via Ming’s Special Project’s Cave, a kind of skunk-works segment of the brand that is free to experiment as the brand develops new technologies. As Ming always points out when they release a watch from the Cave, the process always involves input from their customers, so you could think of the watches in this series as a real reflection of the brand’s owners. If that’s the case, their latest creation, the 20.01 Series 3, kind of proves my point about the vibrancy of the Ming community.  At a high level, the 20.01 Series 3 is a precious metal chronograph utilizing the excellent AgenGraphe movement by Agenhor. But when you get closer (and closer) you realize that the 20.03 is perhaps the brand’s most avant-garde creation yet, which is saying something considering some of the projects that have come out of the Special Projects Cave to this p...

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Worn & Wound

Aug 20, 2024

Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000

Pilot-style watches represent one of the most popular segments within the industry. Introduced at the dawn of aviation in the early twentieth century, pilot’s watches are the original tool watches. They range from simple, time-only designs to complication-filled behemoths with altimeters and slide rules. From heritage-inspired reissues to cutting-edge technology, there’s a pilot watch to suit every style and budget. They inspire a sense of adventure into the unknown, their function-over-form nature, and often rugged good looks, making them ideal for daily wear. Without further ado, here are fifteen of our favorite pilot-style watches under $5,000. The post Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Ming Aug 20, 2024

The Ming 20.01 Series 3 is the latest marvel from Ming’s Special Projects Cave

With a captivating dial construction, the Ming 20.01 Series 3 shows what the Ming Special Projects Cave can do in the dark. The post The Ming 20.01 Series 3 is the latest marvel from Ming’s Special Projects Cave appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Ming Aug 20, 2024

New Ming 20.01 Series 3 Chronograph with Sensational Borosilicate Dial

The latest addition to join the Ming family as part of the brand’s Special Projects Cave is the 20.01 Series 3. If you’re partial to one-off dials, this could be your ticket. Its USP is a dial made entirely from borosilicate crystal.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Ming Aug 20, 2024

Introducing – The New MING 20.01 Series 3 with a Fused Borosilicate Dial and an Agengraphe Movement

Founded in 2017 by a group of enthusiasts led by Ming Thein, the Swiss-Malay watch company MING has evolved from a small horological venture into one of the most intriguing independent watchmakers of our time. In 2021, MING introduced the Special Projects Cave, an initiative to foster customer involvement in creating experimental watches while advancing […]

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Fratello

Ming Aug 20, 2024

Introducing: The Ming 20.01 Series 3 In Rose Gold

It’s easy to fall in love with the dials in Ming’s watches. They’re often multilayered and offer unique material applications. The brand’s use of luminescent materials and simple, modern designs has me wondering what’s next after each release. Today’s 20.01 Series 3 delivers the answer, and this might be my favorite look yet. We’ve discussed […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 20.01 Series 3 In Rose Gold to read the full article.

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F Fratello

Fratello

Aug 20, 2024

Fratello On Air: Our Favorite ’90s And Early ’00s Watches

This week, Fratello On Air returns with our favorite watches from the ’90s and early ’00s. It’s hard to believe that this period is roughly 30 years old! This was a key era for watches and saw the birth of models that still exist or are highly revered today. Join us as we take a […] Visit Fratello On Air: Our Favorite ’90s And Early ’00s Watches to read the full article.

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Fratello

Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes We love Aug 20, 2024

A Useless Bit Of Consumer Advice: A Review Of The Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes

We love to provide proper, useful consumer advice here on Fratello. Unfortunately, I won’t be doing that today. Instead, I’ll be writing about my experience trying on one of my favorite releases of this year, the Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes. This is a watch that, even if you could afford it, isn’t available anymore. I thought […] Visit A Useless Bit Of Consumer Advice: A Review Of The Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes to read the full article.

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Aug 20, 2024

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G

The Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G is one of Patek Philippe’s most practical watches in the “Compilations” family because it combines two useful functions: a calendar that needs setting only once every four years along with a dual time zone display with double day-night indicators. Smartly constructed such that the calendar indicators move in sync with the local time hand, the ref. 5326G has a vintage-toned aesthetic on a smartly detailed dial, presented in an elaborately decorated case. All of that, however, is packaged with a hefty price tag. Initial thoughts Like its sibling the Calatrava ref. 5226G, the ref. 5326G captures Patek Philippe’s latest generation aesthetic, which is not just about design, but fancy execution of the dial and case. Compared to equivalent models from before, the ref. 5326G takes a more elaborate approach to the habillage, with the hobnailed case flanks being an example. It does, however, still feel like a Patek Philippe. Though it’s relatively large at 41 mm, the case is thin at just over 11 mm, giving the watch an elegant, if wide, profile. The ref. 5326G also stands out for having a movement from the 31-260 family of large calibres that represent the latest and greatest in self-winding Patek Philippe movements. In fact, it’s one of only five references with a 31-260 movement. The cal. 31-260 is unquestionably the most sophisticated of Patek Philippe’s automatic movements, and also the most appealing in terms of design wi...

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SJX Watches

Longines Mido’s latest Aug 20, 2024

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment

Mido once again turns to its popular vintage remake with the all-black Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961. The latest in a considerable number of iterations of the model, the new Ocean Star stays faithful to the original in outline and features a trademark multicoloured decompression table on the dial. One of the smaller and less prominent brands in the Swatch Group stable that includes Omega and Longines, Mido’s latest is a limited edition of 1,961 pieces to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Ocean Star model. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common enough they have become cliché, especially in this price segment. The Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 has arguably been iterated too often, each time in slightly different colourway, so the new version isn’t all that novel. That said, it is affordably priced – retail is US$1,480 – and boasts an original design thanks to the decompression scale on the dial. Additionally, this version with its black-PVD coated finish stands out against earlier variants with stealthy aesthetic that creates more contrast with the colourful dial. At the same time, the ETA calibre inside has higher specs than most movements in this price segment, a result of Mido’s parent also owning ETA. Stealthy thetics The stainless steel case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm high, which give it the proportions of a modern watch despite the retro styling. The crystal is domed “glass box” style to mimic the PlexiGlas of the vint...

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