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13,675 articles · 1,233 videos found · page 460 of 497

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Carbonium: Adding Lightness Quill & Pad
Aug 2, 2020

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Carbonium: Adding Lightness

The time-only Romain Gauthier Micro-Rotor already seemed like it was built around the concept of 'simplify, then add lightness' as it was pared back to the essentials while still maintaining the Gauthier flair. Now the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette doubles down on the concept and continues to add even more lightness everywhere thanks in great part to open architecture that has been skeletonized, laying the inner workings bare. But there's more to it, and Joshua Munchow explains all of it here.

The Trademark Battle Over the IWC “Fish” Crown SJX Watches
IWC Fish” Crown One Jul 31, 2020

The Trademark Battle Over the IWC “Fish” Crown

One of the details in the recent IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Black Carbon that appealed to IWC collectors was the revival of the “fish” crown – an emblem used by the brand from the 1950s to the mid-2000s to indicate a water-resistant watch. In fact, the fish logo is significant enough that it is found not only on the crown of the new Big Pilot, but also in relief on the case back (pictured above). Fondly remembered by enthusiasts, the discreet “fish” was eventually replaced by the more brand-centric “Probus Scafusia” emblem, one of the official IWC logos. Behind the comeback of the “fish” is a little-known and rather amusing trademark battle that took place in Swiss courts and was reported on last year by FPC Review, a blog specialising in Swiss patent issues. The IWC fish logo was first registered by Richemont on July 22, 2016, but the Swiss Federal Institute of Intellectual Property (IGE, or sometimes by its French acronym IPI) rejected the registration due to the logo’s resemblance to the ichthys, a fish-like symbol with used in Christianity. The court reasoned that “the commercial use of the sign is likely to violate the religious sentiment of an average Christian”. Ichthys – derived from ιχθυς, which is Greek for “fish” – is an acrostic that spells out “Iesous Christos, Theou Yios, Soter”, or “Jesus Christ, Son of God, Saviour”. Early Christians in the second and third century AD used the ichthys, essentially a two-...

Linde Werdelin Introduces the Oktopus MoonLite SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Though Jul 25, 2020

Linde Werdelin Introduces the Oktopus MoonLite

One of the most established newer brands in the sports watch space, Linde Werdelin was founded 14 years ago and made its name with mechanical watches featuring a removable digital module with dedicated functions for activities like diving and climbing. Now entirely focused on purely mechanical watches, the brand’s latest is a dive watch with an unusual complication – the limited-edition Oktopus MoonLite. Based on the existing Oktopus Moon, the MoonLite is distinguished by the case material, which is made of Alloy Linde Werdelin. Initial thoughts The Oktopus MoonLite is very much in the usual Linde Werdelin style, which is a futuristic, aggressive look that brings to mind watches like the Grand Seiko SBGA405 Godzilla 65th Anniversary and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept. Though large at 44 mm wide, the watch will no doubt be light thanks to the case material. And the color of the case goes exceptionally well with that of the dial, which results in an avant-garde watch that is also the most legible of the Oktopus Moon models to date. Priced at a little over US$14,000 – quite a lot of money for what it is – the Oktopus MoonLite perhaps justifiably priced considering the limited production and proprietary case material. Nonetheless, the bold styling and “indie” status of Linde Werdelin make the MoonLite an unusual proposition – an oversized, contemporary sports watch from an independent brand, which will appeal to collectors who enjoy luxury-sports watch...

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m in satin-polished stainless steel is simply extraordinary Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m Jul 22, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m in satin-polished stainless steel is simply extraordinary

LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week may have been only seven months ago, but it genuinely feels like it could’ve been last century. Cast your mind back those long, long … long seven months, though, and there seemed to be a general consensus among punters and professional hacks alike that there was one novelty that eclipsed all … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m in satin-polished stainless steel is simply extraordinary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Three New Bell & Ross Vintage BR V2 Watches For 2020: For Officers, Gentlemen, And Rebels Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross Vintage BR V2 Watches Jul 20, 2020

Three New Bell & Ross Vintage BR V2 Watches For 2020: For Officers, Gentlemen, And Rebels

Inspired by military watches, the designs of these three new Bell & Ross BR V2 models are not loud, but they are distinct in addition to being highly legible. Martin Green also points out that the names of Bell & Ross watches sometimes read like designations for some type of bomb, but he gives them a pass on that because he thinks that their watches are dynamite. Especially these. Have a look.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm PAM01085 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Jul 20, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm PAM01085

Perhaps the most recognisable Panerai is the Luminor Marina 44 mm. A modern-day creation inspired by a vintage military-issue watch, the Luminor Marina was introduced in 1993, and a decade later became one of the watches that kickstarted the fashion for bigger watches. While the Luminor Marina was historically all about black dials for a no-nonsense military look, Panerai has been injected more colour into the line up for a civilian-friendly style. The new Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm PAM01085 – blu mare translate as “blue sea” – retains the traditional design codes of the Luminor plus a fashionable blue dial. Initial thoughts While earlier Luminor models like the PAM1663 and the PAM1033 have had blue dials, but the new Luminor is arguably the cleanest, harking back to the entry-level Luminor Marina “Logo” of about a decade ago. The blue is metallic, subdued and finished with a radial-brushed finish that’ll definitely catch the light nicely. A colour that’s been in vogue for a couple of years, the blue dial gives the Luminor Blu Mare a slightly more elegant and contemporary feel than the typical Panerai, a useful quality for someone who likes the functional Panerai design but prefers lighter colour palette. The design, however, is strictly traditional. With the vintage originals designed as functional instruments for navy frogmen of the Second World War, the new Luminor is expectedly utilitarian, with large, eminently simple hands and indices – very much the ...

10 of the best digital watches you can buy in 2020, Part 1, including Braun, G-Shock, Hamilton and HD3 Time+Tide
Hamilton Jul 18, 2020

10 of the best digital watches you can buy in 2020, Part 1, including Braun, G-Shock, Hamilton and HD3

Digital watches may not be mechanical masterpieces that harken back to the romanticism of time-telling from a bygone era. But they’re an increasingly exciting corner of the hobby we love, and what they lack in pedigree and soul they make up for in almost boundless functionality. If you look down at your wrist right now … ContinuedThe post 10 of the best digital watches you can buy in 2020, Part 1, including Braun, G-Shock, Hamilton and HD3 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We can’t stop looking at the ‘gender neutral’ Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink and we don’t know why Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink Jul 17, 2020

We can’t stop looking at the ‘gender neutral’ Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink and we don’t know why

In a move to be expected of a brand like Hublot, the provocative wunderkind of the industry has just released a new limited edition in collaboration with Garage Italia and the grandson of the Rake of the Riviera himself, Lapo Elkann. The Big Bang Millennial Pink is based on the Unico 42mm chronograph and features … ContinuedThe post We can’t stop looking at the ‘gender neutral’ Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink and we don’t know why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko SBGM221 review WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko SBGM221 review Jul 16, 2020

Grand Seiko SBGM221 review

The nature of time.  At first glance, the phrase reads as if some form of pseudo philosophical jargon, the kind of slogan born in the Grand Seiko PR departments internship program. That is, until you hold a Grand Seiko in your hands, until you feel the piece and experience the brands physical manifestation of their philosophy. For the past week or so, I have been taking a look at the Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT. A watch from the Elegance line of Grand Seiko, and for that week I have found myself both enamoured and underwhelmed by the nature of this timepiece. As a brand, Grand Seiko prides itself in their craftsmanship, they have been heralded for the famed Ziratsu polish, and admired for the intricacy and complexity of their dials. So it should be noted right away, the finishing and construction of the SBGM221 is first class. The watch has clearly been held to a very high standard during production, nothing is out of place, nothing is even remotely undercooked. The SBGM221 spans a precise 39.5mm in diameter by an equally precise 13.7mm thick. Lug to lug the watch measures 46.3mm, this is achieved by the use of dramatically yet elegantly down curving lugs which hug the piece on to your wrist. I have a wrist size of 17.5cm and found the piece was right in the sweet spot of comfort for me personally, the watch could comfortably be worn down to as little as 15cm due primarily to the curvature of the lugs.  The case of the SBGM221 is where I found the most wonder within the watc...

Business News: Richemont Sales Halve in First Quarter of 2020 SJX Watches
Panerai suffered from widespread store Jul 16, 2020

Business News: Richemont Sales Halve in First Quarter of 2020

Just days after the Swatch Group posted dismal half-year results, Richemont reported predictably poor sales for its first quarter, with revenue falling 47% to €1.99 billion compared to a year earlier. Like its rival the Swatch Group, Richemont was hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. The owner of almost two dozen watch and jewellery brands, including Cartier, IWC and Panerai, suffered from widespread store and distribution centre closures, a worldwide halt in tourism, and dampened consumer interest in many of markets, although China was a bright spot. Degrees of resilience The group’s business across the world was affected to varying degrees from region to region, depending on a combination of factors, namely the duration of closures, tourist spending, and spending of the domestic buyers. Although Richemont reported double-digit sales declines across all regions, distribution channels and business areas, the decreases were less pronounced in the Middle East, Africa, and Asia Pacific – the latter benefitted from a 47% year-on-year growth in sales in China, which exited its lockdown earlier than the rest of the world. China’s performance helped keep sales in the Asia Pacific resilient, to a degree. Sales in the region decreased by 29% at actual exchange rates to €277m, declining in all Asian markets, except China. Amongst the hardest hit were Japan and the Americas, where sales dropped 62% and 60% respectively due to widespread closure. The 2020 Cartier Privé Tank...

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale is peak heritage watch perfection Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale Jul 15, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale is peak heritage watch perfection

As a person who writes about and reviews timepieces all day every day, and as an avid enthusiast of horology since my mid-teens, there really isn’t too much that surprises me anymore in the watch world. Very few watches have the ability to stop me in my tracks, or, for lack of a better word, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale is peak heritage watch perfection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Swatch Group Sales Plunge on Pandemic Closures SJX Watches
Longines had Jul 14, 2020

Business News: Swatch Group Sales Plunge on Pandemic Closures

Swiss watchmaking conglomerate Swatch Group just announced its half-year 2020 results and unsurprisingly, it took a huge hit due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Although the group, which owns brands like Omega and Longines, had a good start in January with an operating margin of 17.3% – with the watch and jewellery brands performing a bit better than movement- and component-production division – the lockdown progressively imposed across the world since February severely impacted sales, leading to a steep declines in revenue and half-year operating loss, a first for the group. Group sales for the first half plunged 43.4% at constant exchange rates from a year earlier, resulting in an operating loss of CHF327m, compared to a profit of CHF547m for the same period in 2019. Most of the drop in sales was attributed to the lockdowns in most countries, resulting in widespread store closures. The Swatch Group saw up to 80% of both its own boutiques and third-party retailers close, meaning it had to rely on partially “partially feasible” e-commerce. And even after lockdowns were lifted, the group permanently vacated some of its retail space, as evidenced by disputes with its former landlord in Hong Kong, which has sued the Swatch Group for several million in allegedly unpaid rent. Due to its swiftly-streamlining retail network, the group’s employee count was trimmed by 6.5% since December 2019 to approximately 33,700 employees. This was also confirmed by anecdotal evidence fro...

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Tiger: So Lifelike You Expect It To Leap From The Dial Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Jul 13, 2020

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Tiger: So Lifelike You Expect It To Leap From The Dial

When Martin Green first saw athe Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Tiger he thought that Jaquet Droz had used a photorealistic print on the dial, so real was the miniature enamel painting for him. The artist focused on the eyes of the tiger, and its gaze is so lifelike and filled with restrained power that it is almost scary. It looks like it’s about to pounce right off the dial!

MICRO MONDAYS: Spinnaker watches might just be your next sub-$1000 throwdown Time+Tide
Jul 12, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Spinnaker watches might just be your next sub-$1000 throwdown

It’s Monday in July in 2020, folks, and that means two certainties for yours truly – the first of five full weeks stuck in lockdown, and a chance to focus on another independent watchmaker. That’s right, it’s MICRO MONDAYS, and today we’re taking a closer look at a brand that is already well known in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Spinnaker watches might just be your next sub-$1000 throwdown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport Jul 10, 2020

The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes

Much like a car manufacturer does when it designs a brand new engine, TAG Heuer are making sure that their flagship self-winding chronograph movement, the Calibre Heuer 02, finds its way into every chrono they’ve released this year. And just days after letting us know that their three in-demand limited edition chronographs equipped with the … ContinuedThe post The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue  Review WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Jul 9, 2020

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue Review

Earlier this month, Tudor released to the world their latest Black Bay creation; the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight ‘Navy Blue’ (Ref 79030B-0001). We covered this much anticipated timepiece briefly upon its release, but now, we will take an in-depth look into what this watch is really about.  For the newcomers to the world of horology, you might be asking, why is there such an aura around the Black Bay Fifty-Eight that draws people in? To answer this, we need to go back into Tudor’s history with dive watches and how the Black Bay Fifty-Eight first came about. Tudor released its first dive watch in 1954, which would incidentally set the brand on a new path to becoming iconic for dive watches. The first Tudor that was released was the Oyster Price Submariner reference 7922. This model was designed with some substantial criteria which included having exceptional durability, reliability, precision and waterproofness, all the while still being moderately affordable. The Oyster Price Submariner reference 7922 after its release became a favourite in the watch industry and positioned itself as an instrument of choice for professionals. Tudor’s dive watches over the next 66 years would evolve with new technologies and materials emerging, updating the movements along the way as well.  Back in 2012, Tudor first launched the Black Bay collection, which is essentially the modern interpretation of the the brand’s iconic Submariner style design. The original Oyster Price Submari...

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe Parmigiani Jul 8, 2020

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection

Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390. A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar. Tondagraph GT Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché. Initial thoughts The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions. Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good a...

Highlights: Independents and the Esoteric at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro Jul 7, 2020

Highlights: Independents and the Esoteric at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Taking place on July 10, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X is the one of the first watch auctions in Hong Kong in 2020, a sign of the much-delayed auction calendar due to the pandemic. But the Phillips catalogue is still 269 lots strong, with a little bit of everything. We took a look at some of the notable complicated watches last week, including the magnificent A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph that’s a strong value buy in uber-complications. Now, we’ll take a look at some of the timepieces by independent watchmakers as well as a handful of interesting, esoteric, and well-priced watches. You can find the rest of the catalogue here. Lot 806 – Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” This sits squarely in the category of weird-but-cool watches. Extremely large at 44 mm, with massive lugs and an even larger crown guard, the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” is a dive watch rated to 3,000 m – three-thousand metres, or 9,800 feet – with a sharply finished, tourbillon-equipped movement. The combination is paradoxical, and slightly silly, but the watch has a peculiar charm, no doubt helped by its affordability (with a low estimate a little under US$20,000). Made in 2006, a time when diving tourbillons were fashionable and when Girard-Perregaux was still a family-run firm owned by the Macalusos – the certificate for the watch is signed by the late Luigi “Gino” Macaluso – the Sea Hawk tourbillon was a limited edition of 32 w...

INTRODUCING: The B&R; BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM has a proper party trick when the lights go out Time+Tide
Bell & Ross Jul 4, 2020

INTRODUCING: The B&R; BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM has a proper party trick when the lights go out

When it comes to tool watches, there are few brands out there as dedicated to instrument aesthetics as Bell & Ross. Although they may lack centuries of heritage, starting off in the early ’90s with Sinn making their watches, they’ve endeavoured not to be left behind in the everlasting race for technological advancement in watchmaking. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The B&R; BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM has a proper party trick when the lights go out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.