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Breguet Combines Engraving, Lacquer, and Guilloche for the New Year SJX Watches
Breguet Combines Engraving Lacquer Jan 10, 2025

Breguet Combines Engraving, Lacquer, and Guilloche for the New Year

To celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, Breguet has done something adventurous with its typically formal dress watch. Created to mark the upcoming Year of the Snake, the Classique 7145 “Snake” is still ultra-thin and time-only, but features a solid gold dial bearing a stylised serpent motif realised with a combination of guilloché and engraving, with translucent green lacquer for colour. Initial thoughts The new Classique has been masterfully reworked to give it an entirely different look that departs entirely from the traditional silvered engine-turning that is a Breguet signature. For fans of Breguet’s old-school aesthetic, this is probably too far from tradition, but for someone seeking something different, this might strike a chord. Aesthetics aside, the guilloché and engraving entail a higher level of craftsmanship than ordinary engine-turned dials. In fact, the snake dial is arguably more complex and refined in technique than the dial on last year’s Dragon edition. The dial complexity is reflected in the price of US$74,600, which is substantially more than the basic time-only Classique, but on par with prevailing retail prices for metiers d’art dials. Exquisite dial work The Classique “Snake” is all about the dial, which highlights the art of engraving, guilloche, and miniature painting. The engraving employs a bas-relief technique that gives the snake a sculptural form. The motif is first sketched and then sculpted by a skilled artisan using chisels...

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Introducing – Back to Basics with the New 47mm Panerai Luminor Tre Giorni PAM01628 Monochrome
Panerai Luminor Tre Giorni PAM01628 Jan 9, 2025

Introducing – Back to Basics with the New 47mm Panerai Luminor Tre Giorni PAM01628

Panerai starts the new year by releasing a watch that perfectly encapsulates the brand´s philosophy and style – staying true to its storied watchmaking heritage blended with modern construction. The latest Luminor reference delivers everything loyal Panerai enthusiasts anticipate while incorporating subtle design updates to set it apart from previous models. True to the brand’s […]

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In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Tourbillon Jan 9, 2025

In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Tourbillon

Greubel Forsey unexpectedly debuted the Hand Made 1 in 2019, but the watch has recently been in the headlines because Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg was wearing one while announcing the elimination of Meta’s fact-checking policy. So it’s an opportune time to revisit the Hand Made 1, especially since its successor may be on the horizon. More classical in style than the typical Greubel Forsey, the Hand Made 1 gets its name from the fact that entire watch, including the case, is “95%” produced “using only hand-operated tools”, but finished to the requisite high standards of the brand. “Robert and myself wanted to bring the level of reliability and performance of a modern watch, so we have imposed the tolerances of a Greubel Forsey timepiece on a hand-made watch,” explains Stephen Forsey, cofounder of Greubel Forsey. Initial thoughts Highly regarded for its elaborately-finished and often elaborately constructed watches, Greubel Forsey surprised with the Hand Made 1. While still equipped with a tourbillon regulator, the Hand Made 1 is simple relative to the brand’s usual fare, which is focused on inclined regulators and multi-axis tourbillons. While the Hand Made 1 is different from most Greubel Forsey offerings, it is similar in possessing a sheen of perfection. This is immediately apparent with the watch in hand. Every edge and surface in the movement looks perfect, even under magnification. This sets it apart from the average “hand made” watch, which ...

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IWC Releases a Titanium Mark XX in Petronas Colors Worn & Wound
IWC Releases Jan 8, 2025

IWC Releases a Titanium Mark XX in Petronas Colors

IWC holds a special place in my heart. One of my first “ultra-performance” sports watches was an IWC Aquatimer GST on a matching titanium bracelet. This was a 2000-meter water-resistant dive watch that featured a push-down locking unidirectional bezel and a mix of Luminova and tritium luminescence. This was in the late 1990s, and shortly after, I was tasked with reviewing their new IWC TZC UTC Pilot Watch, reference 3251. This model featured a sublime 5-piece bracelet with a push-button easy link removal system still in use today. It also had a display opening on the dial indicating a second time zone. Over the past twenty years, I have had the opportunity to get to know many IWC watches. Last year, one of their releases particularly caught my attention. While their pilot series has generally been quite conservative, they have recently experimented with different dial colors, but nothing like this release. As a Mercedes F1 team sponsor, IWC released a Petronas-AMG-themed Pilot Chronograph featuring bright Petronas green dial accents. This was a 41mm version of their standard day-date chronograph featuring their in-house caliber 69385 automatic movement in a grade 5 titanium case. For 2025, IWC has released the Mark XX Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS, essentially a time-and-date version of their previously issued chronograph. This one also features a grade 5 titanium case, but this time with a solid case back. Dimensions are 40mm across the case, with a slender height of only 10....

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Introducing – Seagull Presents a $3,500 Split-Second Chronograph, Arguably the Most Accessible Rattrapante on the Market Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe Finding Jan 8, 2025

Introducing – Seagull Presents a $3,500 Split-Second Chronograph, Arguably the Most Accessible Rattrapante on the Market

When you think of split-second or rattrapante chronographs, you immediately picture high-end watches from Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe. Finding an accessible rattrapante chronograph, at least new on the market, is not an easy task, especially if you consider Swiss or European watch manufacturers. But something from the other side of the world is about […]

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The Least Expensive Panerai Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Jan 8, 2025

The Least Expensive Panerai Watches

Panerai might be the most in-your-face example of the quintessential Tool Watch That Made Good as a Luxury Item. Unlike many other contenders for that title, a Panerai watch today looks essentially the same as it did back in the 1940s, when Italian navy frogmen wore them into underwater combat. Few concessions have been made to modern tastes and trends: the luminous material on the dials is no longer radioactive (inarguably a positive change), Rolex no longer makes the cases, and you no longer have to be a naval commando to own one, but otherwise the relatively few models that make up the Panerai family have stubbornly adhered to their military-issue origins. It is this adherence that makes Panerai, for many, an all-or-nothing proposition — either you’re in the brand’s worldwide, rabid coterie of fans and collectors, proudly self-dubbed the Paneristi, or you roll your eyes at the notion of ever owning one: they’re too big, too flashy, too clunky, too Stallone.  This article, the latest in our series of Price of Admission guides, is aimed at those aspiring to join the former group — in other words, those wishing to pull the trigger on their first Panerai but possibly intimidated by the breadth of choices — and, of course, by the ticket price for entry to that first tier of Paneristi-land. Without further ado, let’s find the most affordable Panerai watches in each of the current product families. RADIOMIR The Radiomir, first conceived in 1935 but tracing its m...

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TAG Heuer Returns As The Official Timekeeper For Formula 1 In 2025 Fratello
TAG Heuer Returns As Jan 8, 2025

TAG Heuer Returns As The Official Timekeeper For Formula 1 In 2025

In the year that Formula 1 celebrates its 75th anniversary, TAG Heuer will return to the sport as its Official Timekeeper. It’s a combination that’s as natural as peanut butter and jelly. With the watch brand’s rich history in racing and its sponsorship of the leading F1 team, this new partnership feels like coming home. […] Visit TAG Heuer Returns As The Official Timekeeper For Formula 1 In 2025 to read the full article.

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Adventuring With A Special IWC Mark XV Through Australia’s Island State Of Tasmania Fratello
IWC Mark XV Through Australia’s Jan 8, 2025

Adventuring With A Special IWC Mark XV Through Australia’s Island State Of Tasmania

Traveling is always an opportunity to spend quality adventure time with a watch. My last trip happened to be in Tasmania, a special place for me. On the trip, I took my IWC Mark XV, which also has great personal significance. My IWC Mark XV is a watch that fulfills the role of going anywhere […] Visit Adventuring With A Special IWC Mark XV Through Australia’s Island State Of Tasmania to read the full article.

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Oris Introduces the ProPilot X “Miss Piggy” Worn & Wound
Oris Introduces Jan 7, 2025

Oris Introduces the ProPilot X “Miss Piggy”

From the moment Oris announced their ProPilot X “Kermit” watch fans have been speculating about which muppet would be next to get the Oris treatment. Not that we didn’t love seeing Kermit on the dial (once a month, on the first of the month) but for many elder-millennials and Gen-X watch collectors, the thought of having an entire collection of Muppet watches was, and remains, pretty tantalizing. Now, just about two years after Kermit made his Oris debut, we get the follow up: the ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition. If you were hoping for Beaker or Animal or another more niche Muppet to appear on an Oris dial, you’ll have to keep waiting. Of course Miss Piggy would have to be the next character – she’s the natural counterpart to Kermit, after all. Has there ever been a more obvious “his and hers” collection than these two ProPilots together? I can’t think of one. The ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition takes the familiar ProPilot X format and shrinks it (and pinks it, sorry) to 34mm. The case is stainless steel and the watch is powered by a rebadged Sellita automatic caliber.  It’s notable that unlike the Kermit watch, we don’t see Miss Piggy on the dial of her ProPilot, not even for a day (there’s no date window for her to make an appearance). Instead, there’s a small window on the caseback through which you can see her periodically on the winding rotor. For a watch devoted to such an iconic character, this is a pretty retrained approach. Instead of Miss P...

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Introducing – IWC Discreetly Drops New Red Gold Versions of the Updated Portugieser 40 and 42 Automatic Monochrome
IWC Discreetly Drops New Red Jan 7, 2025

Introducing – IWC Discreetly Drops New Red Gold Versions of the Updated Portugieser 40 and 42 Automatic

2024 was all about the Portugieser at IWC, the brand’s most classic and elegant collection. Of course, the star of the show was the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, a secular calendar watch that made it to our list of the best watches of the year. There were many more updated versions of this emblematic watch launched […]

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First Look – The Bright and Colourful New Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph POP Collection Monochrome
Jan 7, 2025

First Look – The Bright and Colourful New Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph POP Collection

Presented in 2024, the Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph is a modern reinterpretation of one of the brand’s 1960’s models, the Faux Chronographe, a simplified and affordable take on the chronograph watch. Produced in large quantities, it allowed users to measure short time intervals by initiating and halting the independent central seconds hand. If the modern […]

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Collecting: Why I Chose the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé Worn & Wound
Jan 6, 2025

Collecting: Why I Chose the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé

Since I picked up the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé in the fall of last year, I’ve been meaning to write something about it. It’s an incredible watch, probably the best I’ve owned, and I feel lucky to have it. That’s a strange thing to say, I know. I’m sure Zeitwinkel would happily sell this watch to anyone who was willing to provide the agreed upon amount of money – luck doesn’t really have that much to do with it. But there are things about this watch that are special and set it apart from other watchers I’ve owned that make having it in my watch box and on my wrist a unique pleasure.  This isn’t an owner’s review, because what I really want to talk about with respect to the 273° aren’t the specs, or the finishing, or even the experience of wearing it (all are great, by the way). What I want to talk about is the strange route I took to focusing on Zeitwinkel and picking the 273°. It echoes, I think, the piece I wrote at the end of last year for our “My Year in Watches” series, where I talked about a renewed focus on independent brands. Zeitwinkel is about as independent as it gets, and that’s a big reason why this watch resonates with me – it reflects the very specific interests of the brand founders, and represents a certain no-compromises approach to watchmaking that can’t easily be found with brands owned by big luxury groups, and certainly not at the price point of the 273°.  I’ll be honest here and admit that I was largely unfa...

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Panerai Luminor Marina Review: The PAM00777 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Panerai Luminor Marina Review Jan 6, 2025

Panerai Luminor Marina Review: The PAM00777

Every watch has a story, but some watches come with adventures baked right into their DNA. If you've listened back to our older podcast episodes, you'll know that my Panerai Luminor Marina PAM00777 is one of those pieces. It wasn't just the culmination of years of quiet admiration for the brand; it was the memento of a whirlwind day in Florence that, for a moment, felt like a nightmare.

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Haute-Rive Honoris 1 Reviewed by Tim Mosso: Impressive 1,000-hour Power Reserve plus Flying Tourbillon Quill & Pad
Oris 1 Reviewed Jan 4, 2025

Haute-Rive Honoris 1 Reviewed by Tim Mosso: Impressive 1,000-hour Power Reserve plus Flying Tourbillon

While Tim Mosso has seen watches with long power reserves, huge power reserves, and absurd power reserves, the result always looked as outwardly awkward as it was technically adept. Every watch he has encountered with a power reserve beyond ten days was massive. But the Haute-Rive Honoris 1 is a compact marvel through clever design.

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Do Analog-Digital Watches Give You The Best Of Both Worlds? Fratello
Jan 4, 2025

Do Analog-Digital Watches Give You The Best Of Both Worlds?

Analog-digital watches are making a comeback. Here are a few fantastic examples of compelling designs from popular brands to consider. The aesthetically pleasing design of an analog watch and the added functionality of a digital complication make a strong case for including analog-digital watches in any enthusiast’s collection. Let’s take a look. When I say […] Visit Do Analog-Digital Watches Give You The Best Of Both Worlds? to read the full article.

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Breguet Rings in the Year of the Snake with a Stunning Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Breguet Rings Jan 3, 2025

Breguet Rings in the Year of the Snake with a Stunning Limited Edition

Well folks, January is here, and that can really only mean one thing when it comes to new watch releases: we are about to be bombarded with Lunar New Year limited editions. They started to trickle out just before things began to shut down for the holidays, and by the time I dared to sign into my work email for the first time in 2025, press releases from brands of all kinds were waiting for me, heralding the launch of new watches to celebrate the Year of the Snake. This has been a tradition for as long as I’ve paid attention to watch media, and probably a whole lot longer. In some ways, I think we all have to admit, it’s quite cynical. It’s an easy way for brands to (hopefully) cash in as the growing Chinese luxury watch market looks for ways to mark a major point on their calendar. But the watches themselves, quite often, are really quite good, often living near the higher end of a brand’s catalog, serving as an example of particular craft techniques. That’s certainly the case with this year’s entry from Breguet, Breguet Classique 7145 Lunar New Year 2025, a watch that showcases the brand’s signature guilloche work, as well engraving and miniature painting techniques.  The Classique 7145 Lunar New Year 2025 starts with a simple, 40mm rose gold case, with fluting along the case walls, another signature Breguet design characteristic. While 40mm is on the large side for a modern dress watch, it makes sense in a watch like this as a way to properly showcase the ...

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