21,883 articles · 5,520 videos found · page 464 of 914
Monochrome
Last year, Parmigiani Fleurier revived the fabled Toric, the first watch released by Michel Parmigiani after launching his eponymous watchmaking company in 1996. Met with great enthusiasm, the new Toric collection embodied everything the original Toric was known for, with the addition of the appealing sartorial touch Terreni is known for. The latest addition to […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Breguet Type XX, originally produced for France’s military pilots in the 1950s, is one of the most significant and influential watches with aviation ties, and represents the historical and, to many watch enthusiasts, largely unknown link between the Breguet family’s two areas of multigenerational savoir faire: watchmaking and aeronautical technology. The new Type XX Chronographe 2075, unveiled last week as part of Montres Breguet’s ongoing celebration of its 250th anniversary, stylishly pays tribute to this shared history in two distinctive iterations based on one of the very first civilian-marketed models. Origin of the Type XX A bit of history and background: Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the eponymous watchmaking maison, is known to many of us as one of the world’s most important watchmaking pioneers, whose many accomplishments include the invention of the tourbillon, keyless winding of watch movements, and the ubiquitous Breguet hands. Several generations of his family continued the horological tradition, but one great grandson, Louis-Charles Breguet, found another calling, in the burgeoning field of manned flight, founding Breguet Aviation in 1911. The company, today a part of Dassault Aviation, developed cutting-edge aircraft for the military units of Louis’ native France, including the famed Breguet 19 bomber used during World War I. Despite the ownership change in the watch business, both branches of the Breguet families kept close ties both to e...
Fratello
For those of us in the Northern Hemisphere, summer is just around the corner, so it’s time to start thinking about your daily watch for the coming months. While switching up straps is an easy way of changing the looks of your watch, more and more brands have started catering to those who want a […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorful Rado Anatom Automatic Summer Series to read the full article.
Monochrome
More than forty years after it was first noticed for its daring design and futuristic materials, the Rado Anatom is again in the spotlight. Initially launched in 1983, the Anatom offered a technical and aesthetic innovation, yet was succeeded by other geometrically shaped collections. The brand relaunched the Anatom in 2023 to celebrate the 40th […]
Quill & Pad
After reading article after article discussing the virtues of Patek Philippe's Nautilus, it became clear to watch enthusiast and Quill & Pad reader Perry Heim that none stated a self-evident truth that appears obvious to him. In this "letter to the editor" Perry explains in detail what he finds so appealing about the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711. And he stacks the Nautilus up against some serious contemporary contenders.
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Fratello
Writing about watches from a distance can be a challenging task. Sure, it’s easy enough to understand the specifications, finishing methods, and purpose of a new release. However, seeing is believing. Then again, there are times when coming face to face with a potentially desirable watch ends in disappointment. Thankfully, the BA111OD Chapter 7 is […] Visit Hands-On With The BA111OD Chapter 7 Chronometer Forest Green to read the full article.
In the world of military-issued watches, some models are legendary. Others are ghost stories-rare prototypes whispered about among collectors, their existence confirmed only through archival fragments or the occasional sighting in the wild. The Bulova MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 falls somewhere between the two, and for the first time in decades, one of the few surviving examples is surfacing in public-on the block at Sotheby’s, no less. A Mission-Critical Beginning To understand why this watch matters, you need to rewind to 1955. Amid Cold War tensions and escalating naval operations, the U.S. Navy sought a robust dive watch for its elite underwater teams-specifically, the Underwater Demolition Teams (UDT) and Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) units, the forebears of modern Navy SEALs. The specifications they drafted, known as MIL-SHIPS-W-2181, called for something no commercial watch at the time quite delivered: water resistance beyond 400 feet, excellent night visibility, a highly legible dial, and a locking, unidirectional bezel. The post How Bulova’s MIL-SHIPS Went from Top Secret to Top Shelf appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
The 600m-water-resistant Defy A3648, known as the Defy Plongeur, was a proper tool watch for professionals when it debuted in 1969. When Zenith launched a Revival version of the A3648 in 2024, brand fans rejoiced. At the same time, the Le Locle-based watchmaker introduced the modern Defy Extreme Diver, a worthy evolution model of the […] Visit Zenith Introduces Shadow Versions Of The Defy Extreme Diver And Defy Revival Diver to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Niclas has arranged to meet the seller of a platinum Rolex Day-Date at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris. If all goes well, the watch transaction should be completed within an hour the he would catch the next flightto Stockholm. What makes him nervous is that the deal is to be done in cryptocurrency. But that's not what went wrong.
Fratello
The Hamilton Khaki Field Auto has been a gateway watch for many seasoned collectors. It is also one of those rare watches that serve that role without owners “growing” out of it. You’ll find it sitting proudly among Rolexes and Omegas, holding its own in so many enthusiasts’ collections. Today, we get two new colorways, […] Visit Hands-On: Suspend Your Purism And Enjoy Two New Colors Of The Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm to read the full article.
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Teddy Baldassarre
Some of the most interesting and coveted watches on the market were designed as tools for professionals in fields that are more exciting than those of the average nine-to-fiver. Divers, race car drivers, and pilots have spurred on many of the most popular tool watch designs on the market today. Take, for example, the Rolex Submariner, designed for divers, the TAG Heuer Monaco, used for auto racing both onscreen and off by Steve McQueen, and the Breitling Navitimer, an aviation icon for decades. More than just jewelry, the timekeepers worn by these professionals, plying trades in which seconds count, were depended upon in some cases to save their lives. Pilots had to rely on their watches for critical information like calculating the distance traveled and the amount of fuel left. However, thanks in large part to digital tech, much has changed, and many great pilot’s watches are now used as heritage-infused time tellers in less austere circumstances, though the watches themselves are still more than capable. But, before we get too far ahead, what do we mean when we talk about pilot’s watches? Today, there’s an entire genre of watches dedicated to aviation. Some are homages to vintage designs, while others are modern variations on those earliest pilot’s watches. Some pilot watches are still tools, and act as backups to onboard instrumentation for professional pilots, while others are simply accessories for frequent fliers. In either case, the pilot watch genre ...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion Vintage Longines Here we have a beautiful vintage Longines Jamboree. This is a great casual sporty dress watch, well suited for a day on the town or with a suit at a nice dinner. The 35mm steel case looks unpolished with sharp edges, and perfectly preserved original etching on the caseback. Nice slim lugs too. The silver dial looks clean, with slim applied steel markers and nice steel sword hands. No date window to mess with the soothing symmetry. The crown is original and signed with the Longines logo as it should be. The Longines caliber 230 manual wind movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Fantastic watch from a well respected manufacture that you don’t see too often. View auction here Vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf Next up is a classic and highly sought-after vintage diver, a second generation Zodiac Sea Wolf. This version has the gray acrylic bezel insert, which is in excellent condition, with only one small crack near the 20 minute mark. The steel case (around 35mm if memory serves) is unpolished with nice edges. The original crown is signed with the Zodiac crosshair logo as it should be. The original black dial is superb, with nice lume filled triangle markers at 12, 6 and ...
Teddy Baldassarre
So, you love Audemars Piguet’s inarguably iconic Royal Oak, but you are looking for some Royal Oak alternatives that capture the vibe of the watch at a price point that won’t give you night sweats? You and I, my friend, are in the same boat, chugging along the turbulent sea that is modern watch pricing. Recently, it seems that I have set out on a personal renegade mission to target some of the most well-known watch designs of all time, and offer a sampling platter of alternatives that go down a little easier, with price tags that won’t keep you up at night questioning how yourself and your family will ever recover from your watch collecting hobby. Clearly, my next target is the Royal Oak, which just so happens to be one of my favorite watches of all time. For anyone new here, the rules of the road are as follows: below, I will offer up some watches at various price points, from the extremely affordable (under $200, perhaps) watch alternatives from various brands as bounty. These picks will range from blatant copycats (or homages to the Royal Oak, if you prefer) to other, more wild-card picks that, in my point of view, demonstrate a key ingredient of the design at hand, though it might be less obvious at first glance. In the Royal Oak alternatives recipe, those key ingredients are an integrated bracelet construction (or the appearance of one, with the help of a quick-release strap mechanism), bezels with complex geometry, and an overall feeling of sportiness. Of cou...
Fratello
Let me present you with a dilemma. What dial type do you prefer - lush lacquer, enticing enamel, or pristine porcelain? It’s a difficult choice, right? Before reaching your verdict, please have a look at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition. This watch highlights artisanal qualities, resulting in […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition SPB497 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
When it comes to Rolex, nicknames for its watches are almost as plentiful as the watches themselves – and often so esoteric that even avid watch enthusiasts can be perplexed by them. Can you tell a Kermit from a Hulk, for example? Or a John Player from a John Mayer? And would you be able to identify a Thunderbird or a Texano in the rare chance you’d come across one these days? Rolex’s legions of fans have been bestowing colorful and often esoteric nicknames on its most noteworthy watches for decades, and there are more of them than you probably even realize. Here’s a mostly alphabetical primer on the top 20 Rolex nicknames you’re likely to hear (and maybe even use) regularly in today’s buzzing watch-enthusiast community. Batman GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR Debuting in 2013, this Rolex GMT-Master II reference garnered the nickname “Batman” for its first-of-its-kind bicolor Cerachrom bezel in shades of blue and black, which undoubtedly brought to mind for many enthusiasts the signature colors of DC Comics’ dark-garbed guardian of Gotham City. This “Batman” moniker is now applied primarily to the model on the three-link Oyster bracelet. Batgirl GMT-Master II Ref. 126710BLNR As alluded to directly above, the “Batgirl” name has been applied to the Ref. 126710BLNR of the aforementioned GMT-Master II, introduced in 2019, which differs from the original “Batman” only in its choice of a Jubilee bracelet rather than an Oyster. Is one more masculine...
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Worn & Wound
The return of the dive watch to the Zenith collection has been one of the real highlights for the brand over the last year or so. It’s actually kind of crazy to consider that Zenith went so long without a true diver in their lineup, being that they’ve been one of the foundational pillars on which the whole industry saw so much growth over the last decade. It would be a little like an auto manufacturer refusing to build an SUV of some kind – why not get a piece of this segment of the market that an enormous number of people are interested in? It’s particularly noteworthy, I think, that when Zenith did decide to get back into the diver game, they did it on two fronts: with a tribute to their divers of the past, alongside a forward looking contemporary piece. Griffin Bartsch, across multiple reviews and videos, has done a nice job of breaking down both the Defy Extreme Diver and the Defy Revival Diver, watches that are very much two sides of the same coin. This week, Zenith expands their dive watch portfolio a bit further, iterating on both of these platforms via their “Shadow” series. The Shadow watches have been enthusiast favorites since their inception. We’ve previously seen both a Chronomaster Revival Shadow as well as a Defy Revival Shadow, both of which strip down the essence of a watch into a chilly, micro-blasted titanium tool. The matte finish and darker tones of the cases are really appealing. They have a way of making a watch that is otherwise virt...
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen closes its newly launched model lineup with a surprising creation, the UJ-3 . An integrated perpetual calendar that elegantly builds on the base of time-only UJ-2, the UJ-3 is equipped with a calendar module developed in collaboration with independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler. The UJ-3 is the third and final watch in Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch lineup, which was among this year’s most unexpected (but welcome) surprises. Initial thoughts The introduction of a perpetual calendar along with the two other models is an impressive move by the team at Urban Jürgensen. Brands typically debut with a single model; Urban Jürgensen has managed three all-new watches. The fact that in addition to a tourbillon (and a special one at that) of the UJ-1, Urban Jürgensen managed to develop a complex perpetual calendar is nothing short of remarkable. Moreover, the perpetual calendar of the UJ-3 integrated with the movement, and not merely added as a module. Urban Jürgensen is being transparent in revealing the UJ-3 is a collaboration between Voutilainen and watchmaker-engineer Andreas Strehler. This openness is important, especially for independent watchmakers. The acknowledgement also adds pedigree to the piece given Mr Strehler’s good reputation. Personally, I find the UJ-3 more cohesive in design compared to the UJ-2. The calendar indications better fill the dial space, and the hands are no longer too small for the face. Also, the dial appearance evokes the p...
Hodinkee
The historically minded collection looks further back in the brand's heritage for design inspiration, featuring a new yet familiar aesthetic combined with world-class watchmaking.
SJX Watches
Led by Kari Voutilainen and backed by an American collector, Urban Jürgensen has been revived in grand style. The brand’s inaugural watch is undoubtedly one of this year’s most surprising launches, the UJ-1 250th Anniversary Watch. The first of three new models, the UJ-1 is a limited edition that pays tribute to the Oval, a pocket watch created by Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt that is perhaps brand’s greatest timepiece. Having been dormant for a while and a little confused in terms of focus (including jumping on the fad of an integrated bracelet sports watch), the brand is now running full steam ahead and going back to its high horology roots with a trio of models, led by the UJ-1 that lives up to expectations, and then some. Initial thoughts The UJ-1 sets the tone for what is to come from Urban Jürgensen by Kari Voutilainen. Even before turning the watch over and admiring its movement, the execution of the dial hints at the quality within, reflecting the fact that Mr Voutilainen is an undisputed master of guillochage. At first sight the piece shows an engine-turned face that is tastefully restrained. The collective style of Breguet, Jürgensen, Pratt and Voutilainen can be immediately discerned from the dial. While wearing all the marks of traditional engine-turned dials, the proportions, the typeface and the “zero” marker make it look a little updated and almost leaning on the minimalistic. The subtle change suggests that the brand is truly going into a...
Fratello
Have you ever noticed that most GMT watches are quite sporty? That’s great for many people, but what if you travel for work or simply have a more formal style? Well, Canadian microbrand Héron has got your back! I would like to introduce you to the Héron Mirabel GMT, a dressy travel watch - or, […] Visit Traveling In Style - Hands-On With The New Héron Mirabel GMT to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
A proper tool watch celebrates its 40th anniversary.The post The new Citizen Promaster Aqualand celebrates 40 years of the first diver with an electronic depth sensor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
In 1985, Citizen revolutionized the world of dive watches by introducing the Aqualand. Among the standout features of this then-state-of-the-art dive tool were the multifunctional digital display and built-in electronic depth gauge. The latter gave the watch its distinct shape, with the depth sensor’s hardware element protruding from the left side of the case. The […] Visit Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver to read the full article.
Monochrome
In certain very specific situations, one’s life could very much depend on a watch, especially when it comes to environments humans are not good at surviving without support. And this is where tool watches can, literally, play a vital role. Plunging ourselves into the depths of the ocean, for instance, is a fine example of […]
SJX Watches
Following the Classique Souscription, and Tradition Seconde Rétrograde, Breguet continues its 250th anniversary roll-out by turning to its signature pilot’s watch. The Type XX Chronographe 2075BH debuts in two variants in “Breguet gold”: a regular production with a black aluminium dial and a 250-piece limited edition with a sterling silver dial. Both are handsome and stay mostly true to the model’s heritage thanks to faithful sizing and a manually-wound movement. The regular production with a black aluminium dial (left), and sterling silver dial of the limited edition Initial Thoughts The new Type XX ticks many of the boxes from an enthusiast’s perspective with its compact dial and concise dial that does without a date and hour totalizer – both welcome reductions to the first-generation design. That said, the Breguet gold case is limiting due to the price. A stainless steel case would’ve been even more appreciated, though that will probably arrive in due time. While the cal. 7278/7279 in the new Type XX is technically excellent – like most Breguet calibres – the thoroughly modern construction doesn’t complement the vintage-inspired design. Adapting the cal. 582 used in the 1990s Type XX might have been more interesting due to its lateral clutch construction and increasingly rare cam-control system, though the cal. 7278/7279 reads better on a spec sheet with its vertical clutch. And to preserve the vintage feel, a solid, hand-engraved case back might...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Glashütte Original SeaQ debuted in 2019 alongside the German watchmaker’s then-new “Spezialist” family. The collection has grown to include the SeaQ Panorama Date, the smaller SeaQ 39.5mm, and the SeaQ Chronograph. I believe the SeaQ was the first new dive or sports watch from the brand since the Senator Sport Evolution from 2009. Inspired by the vintage Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969, the SeaQ has gone on to become one of the most lauded luxury dive watches out there. These are true luxury watches, though and they come with matching price tags. Still, the Glashütte Original SeaQ is one of the best options out there for someone with high standards but doesn’t want to join the sea (pun intended) of Submariners and Seamasters out there. There’s a funny quandary that reveals itself when looking at the SeaQ Panorama Date in comparison to the smaller SeaQ with the standard, less sexy date window. You can have the bigger case and the panorama date window or you can have the smaller case without the panorama date window. But, since you can’t have both, I made sure to add a section at the end with a brief comparative rundown of the SeaQ with the smaller 39.5mm case. Glashütte Original SeaQ Case Let’s start with the SeaQ Panorama which comes in at 43.2mm wide and 15.7mm thick with a 51.4mm lug-to-lug measurement (with 300 m of water resistance). Yes, that’s a big boy and anyone with a smaller (or even the smaller size of medium) wrist is going to have ...
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