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Introducing – The C by Romain Gauthier Platinum Edition Bracelet Joins the Heritage Collection Monochrome
Nov 5, 2024

Introducing – The C by Romain Gauthier Platinum Edition Bracelet Joins the Heritage Collection

This summer, indie watchmaker Romain Gauthier announced the end of the titanium-case-rubber-strap editions of its contemporary, aesthetically and horologically pleasing C by Romain Gauthier watch line, which was first launched in 2021 as the Continuum and now comprises two sub-collections. The Freedom collection is reserved for titanium-cased watches on straps and titanium bracelets, while the […]

Review: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph WatchAdvice
Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph Nov 5, 2024

Review: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph

With all the talk around Bremont’s new lineup, not to mention the change in direction, we wanted to let the watch do the talking, so we’ve gone hands-on with the all-new Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph to see for ourselves! What We Love: The vintage-style numerals The dial is easy to read at a glance The new bracelet design is comfortable and looks great What We Don’t: The watch is on the thicker side, so wears on the larger side Lack of micro-adjust on the clasp and bracelet The lack of a screw-down crown on an explorers sports watch Overall Rating: 8 / 10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Bremont is a brand not without some controversy, well, at least this year when they and CEO Davide Cerrato revealed an all-new brand identity and logo, along with new releases at Watches & Wonders this year. Since then, we have spoken at length with Davide, (stay tuned for that interview in a few weeks), and while time will ultimately let the public see this all come together, the way he describes it, his grand plan makes sense. That being said, whilst the changes took many off-guard, us included, rather than getting involved in the online rhetoric, we thought we would do what we do best – get our hands on the new range and see how the watches are in real life, in the hands and on the wrist. After all, you can never really give an opinion on a piece until you’ve had experience with it and even more so when you can spend consid...

Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Fratello
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Nov 5, 2024

Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”

When Tudor hints at a new watch, the rumor mill starts running on overdrive. Usually, it sparks discussions about great possible additions to the Tudor lineup. How about that for Tudor scooping up ideas for future releases? But this time, the teaser that Tudor released wasn’t too mysterious. With a clip that showed the Marine […] Visit Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” to read the full article.

Louis Erard’s All New Régulateur Gravé Noir Worn & Wound
Louis Erard s All New Régulateur Nov 4, 2024

Louis Erard’s All New Régulateur Gravé Noir

Louis Erard, in a move that I think many who follow the brand will view as somewhat surprising, announced a new watch last week along with the news that their longstanding Excellence collection, which has been the home to many of the collaborative limited editions that have propelled the brand to a new level of notoriety over the past several years, is being replaced. Those watches now fall under a new banner, the Noirmont collection. This collection, in turn, is split up into three distinct subgroups, including the standalone “Noirmont,” “Noirmont X,” which would appear to be where you’ll find Louis Erard’s collaborations going forward, and “Noirmont Métiers d’Art.” This final line is where the brand’s latest release sits, the Régulateur Gravé Noir, which sees Louis Erard applying some traditional finishing techniques and vintage inspiration to a watch that has become a signature for them. To give you a sense of the other watches in the Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, this is where you’ll find the recent Petite Seconde guilloche pieces, as well as their newer regulator with an enamel dial. The new Régulateur Gravé Noir (we’ll just call it the Gravé from here on out) is, as Louis Erard puts it, a new spin on the classic sector dial. The regulator format, it would seem, would be a natural choice to experiment with the sector layout, and in fact you could argue that just about any execution of a regulator is going to have some sector dial ...

Hands-on – The Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival is (almost) the Real Vintage Deal Monochrome
Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival Nov 4, 2024

Hands-on – The Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival is (almost) the Real Vintage Deal

It might come as a surprise to learn that Favre Leuba is the world’s second-oldest watch company. Founded in 1737 by Abraham Favre in Le Locle, the brand reached a high point in the mid-1960s with its rugged purpose-designed tool watches. Now in the hands of industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, his “revival and renaissance” strategy […]

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 “Third Series” Black Dial, Breguet Numerals SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2499 “Third Series” Nov 4, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 “Third Series” Black Dial, Breguet Numerals

Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction includes Treasures of Time, a small but impressive collection of watches consigned by a European gentleman of evidently sophisticated taste. While the most valuable of the 31 lots in the collection is a first-series ref. 2499 in pink gold, the most striking watch is arguably this Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series with a glossy black dial featuring Breguet numerals. Only six examples of the ref. 2499 are known to have a black dial, and this is one of them. The black dial with Breguet numerals gives the watch tremendous appeal and presence on the wrist. Beautiful as it is, however, this ref. 2499 is not absolute perfect from a historical perspective as the black dial was added long after the watch was made. The watch was originally sold by Patek Philippe in 1964, probably with the typical silver dial, and it gained this black dial sometime in the 1980s. According to its well documented history, the owner of the watch in the 1980s was an important enough collector that when he asked for a black dial with Breguet numerals, Patek Philippe said yes. The dial was thus produced by Stern Frères and installed in the watch. It’s worth noting that most of the six known ref. 2499s with a black dial have a similar history in that the black dials were subsequent additions. Though it’s clearly not a vintage dial, Stern Frères executed it well. The dial is finished with a glossy black lacquer and gold powder print, while the indices are applie...

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Nov 4, 2024

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype

One of the most significant examples of contemporary watchmaking, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” will soon go on the block at Phillips. Consigned by the estate of the original owner – meaning it’s a one-owner watch for over three decades – the “15/93” prototype carries within it the magic of independent watchmaking to a degree that rivals the landmark timepieces like the George Daniels Space Traveller’s Watch. The history of this tourbillon is well known: it is the second wristwatch made by François-Paul Journe, and the first one he sold. In early 1992 he sold it to a Parisian collector for a price that in hindsight is profoundly ridiculous, but was probably an extraordinary price to pay for a watch like this at the time. The gentleman who bought it owned it for some 32 years and clearly wore it often. There is no doubt he understood what the watch represented, even years ago before it was valuable, because he retained all of the original documentation that came with the watch, including copies of the technical plans. To the late original owner of this watch: you have my respect and admiration. “Prototype” Although I describe this as a prototype, it more accurately one specimen of a small series of hand-made watches. This series formed the template for the later Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité that was produced on a larger scale, albeit only numbering in the dozens, initially by hand and then with more industrial met...

Hands-On: the Fleux FLX003 Worn & Wound
Panerai Nov 4, 2024

Hands-On: the Fleux FLX003

Search for “vintage watch” on Kickstarter and you’ll be met with page after page of watches that seek to capture the charm of watches from decades past. Some will be near-replicas that look more like carbon copies than modern interpretations. Others will find a balance of paying homage to iconic designs while still maintaining an air of originality. While the approaches vary, vintage inspired designs remain pervasive – they’re just about everywhere. Last year, Toronto based Fleux joined the ranks of brands crowdfunding their vintage inspired freshman releases with the FLX001 and FLX002– taking the amalgamation route by drawing inspiration from a variety of classic skin divers. The FLX001 featured chunky lume plots and a blocky orange hour hand that brought to mind images of Squale and Vulcain. The FLX002 featured a California dial, a layout of half Roman and half Arabic numerals that was popularized by brands like Rolex and Panerai. Changing gears to pay homage to a single watch rather than a genre, the FLX003 unapologetically draws its inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle- also known as the “Big T”. The Watch Lets address the elephant in the room: When considering a $500 NH38 powered Omega inspired dive watch, it’s fair to ask how it differs from the other Omega-inspired designs on the market. Afterall, a 200 meter, Seiko powered watch from Pagani Design can be yours for about $100. I’ve personally owned (and worn with pride) many of t...

Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 Fratello
Casio n Gerald Charles Maestro Nov 4, 2024

Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916

During Geneva Watch Days 2024, Gerald Charles announced the exclusive Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 created in collaboration with Italian motorcycle manufacturer Ducati. The watch celebrates the 30th anniversary of the legendary Ducati 916 motorcycle. It features Gerald Charles’s well-known Maestro case with a ruby-red vulcanized rubber strap for the occasion. Gerald Charles Maestro […] Visit Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 to read the full article.

Biver Reveals Unique Automatique for Charity SJX Watches
Nov 4, 2024

Biver Reveals Unique Automatique for Charity

Although it’s been less than two years since its founding, Biver has already launched its second model, the Automatique. Using that as the base, the brand created the Automatique “Echoes of this Moment”, a unique piece crafted in collaboration with a Swiss artist for TimeForArt, a charity auction taking place in November to benefit the Swiss Institute, a nonprofit focused on contemporary art education. Initial thoughts The standard Automatique is undeniably a finely executed watch, especially the micro-rotor automatic calibre within. Although the aesthetics of the regular-production model aren’t perfectly cohesive, the exquisite quality of the movement and attention to detail make it one of the most interesting new time-only creations from an independent. This unique piece improves the aesthetics of the Automatique because it simplifies the design. The standard version has an elaborately finished dial that combines too many elements – faceted indices, brushed sectors, an engraved seconds track, and sharp polished hands. In contrast, the unique Automatique keeps the look simple, while still having a complex, artisanal dial decoration. Here the handmade dial – that’s both engraved and enamelled – can be admired for what it is, with no distractions. An artful dial The New York-based Swiss Institute was set up to promote contemporary art through events and exhibitions. Now in its second edition, TimeForArt was conceived to benefit the non-profit. Biver is one o...

Hands-On: The Dennison ALD Stone Dials Collection Fratello
Longines Nov 3, 2024

Hands-On: The Dennison ALD Stone Dials Collection

Over the past year, I’ve collected watches from the ’40s and ’50s. Watches with Dennison cases are impossible to avoid when focusing on this early period. The Birmingham, England-based company was a notable case maker for Omega, Longines, and more until its closure in 1967. Today, the name returns with a very different set of […] Visit Hands-On: The Dennison ALD Stone Dials Collection to read the full article.

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC953 European Limited Edition Fratello
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Nov 3, 2024

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC953 European Limited Edition

Around this time two years ago, Seiko introduced its first trio of Speedtimer Solar Chronograph models. The series combines vintage-inspired looks with modern technology at an affordable price, making it a tempting proposition that many watch enthusiasts embraced. Since then, the line has been slowly expanding with variations in different sizes and colorways. The newest […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC953 European Limited Edition to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Fratello
Breguet Classique 5177 Vs Nov 3, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

Last week, two dress-watch giants presented new versions of existing watches in their collections. First, A. Lange & Söhne showed us four new references of the Lange 1 to celebrate the model’s 30th anniversary. Then, Breguet presented us with a new platinum version of both the Classique 5177 and 7787. So, for this week’s Sunday […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 to read the full article.

Restoring The Seiko 5 That Accompanied Me Across Asia Fratello
Seiko 5 Nov 2, 2024

Restoring The Seiko 5 That Accompanied Me Across Asia

Seiko 5 is a watch line synonymous with entering the watch hobby. It is full of reliable, affordable, and rugged automatic watches. They’re the epitome of what makes Seiko one of the most significant watch manufacturers in the world and have long been a default choice for an entry-level mechanical timepiece. My first mechanical watch […] Visit Restoring The Seiko 5 That Accompanied Me Across Asia to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Milgauss Models Fratello
Rolex Milgauss Models Another Friday Nov 1, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Milgauss Models

Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at the Rolex Milgauss, the oddball engineer’s watch that first came out in the 1950s, just like many of The Crown’s classics. But unlike the Submariner and the GMT-Master, the Milgauss hasn’t always been part of the brand’s collection since then. It’s part of the reason we […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Milgauss Models to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Introduces a Commemorative Carrera Tourbillon in Tribute to Ayrton Senna Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Nov 1, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a Commemorative Carrera Tourbillon in Tribute to Ayrton Senna

TAG Heuer is introducing a third generation of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in collaboration with the Senna brand, a commemorative company dedicated to the late Ayrton Senna’s legendary career as three time Grand Prix world champion. Senna’s racing legacy is intertwined with the watch world and has always conjured images of the TAG Heuer 6000 Senna Limited Edition in the minds of collectors. This was the very first watch that Ayrton produced together with TAG Heuer, and he was still with us at the beginning of its conception to have a say in its design.  In 2018 TAG Heuer released the first Carrera chronograph tourbillon editions, followed by another iteration in 2019. While many of us are quite fond of the original designs that feature a very distinct era specific aesthetic, such as small case sizes with heavily rounded edges, these new models are extremely modern in contrast. Launching today is the reference CBU5081.FT6274 – a serious chronograph watch with a grade 2 titanium case, ceramic tachymeter bezel that can measure up to 400 kmh, and a display of TAG Heuer watchmaking prowess in the form of a tourbillon at 6 o’clock. It doesn’t get much more contemporary sporty than a watch like this, using cutting edge materials and high horology watchmaking techniques such as its fully skeletonized dial and the tourbillon itself.  The yellow, blue, and green accents each have their spot around the dial of the watch, aiding in reading the elapsed time of the ch...

Piaget Presents The Andy Warhol Clou De Paris With A Blue Meteorite Dial Fratello
Piaget Presents Nov 1, 2024

Piaget Presents The Andy Warhol Clou De Paris With A Blue Meteorite Dial

At the beginning of this year, Piaget already spoiled us with its re-edition of Yves Piaget’s Polo Watch. But when your brand turns 150 years old, you don’t limit yourself to just one celebration. That’s why Piaget proudly presents another re-edition based on one of its biggest icons, the cushion-shaped Black Tie. For the occasion, […] Visit Piaget Presents The Andy Warhol Clou De Paris With A Blue Meteorite Dial to read the full article.

First Look – The Edgy Rado Anatom Returns with High-Tech Ceramic Bracelets Monochrome
Rado Anatom Returns Nov 1, 2024

First Look – The Edgy Rado Anatom Returns with High-Tech Ceramic Bracelets

Contemporary, geometrical-shaped watches have been a part of Rado’s repertoire since 1967, a tradition that was continued with the release of the rectangular Anatom watch in 1983. While the Anatom initially relied on a similar Hardmetal material to the one used on the DiaStar, Rado celebrated its relaunch in 2023 with high-tech ceramic bezels. Expanding […]

From Prototype To Perpetual Calendar: The Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453 Fratello
Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Nov 1, 2024

From Prototype To Perpetual Calendar: The Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453

Panerai’s first-ever watch prototype was released on October 24th, 1935, and it was called Radiomir. The watch will turn 90 next year, but the excitement must be too big to control at the brand’s headquarters because the Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453 you see here is a celebratory model. It is a complicated […] Visit From Prototype To Perpetual Calendar: The Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453 to read the full article.