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Monochrome
Alpina has steadily carved out a niche for robust sports watches that balance land and sea credentials, and the Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic is a good example of this dual spirit. Introduced last year in a compact 39mm Extreme cushion-shaped case with 300m water resistance, it was already a natural fusion of the Alpiner’s rugged […]
Monochrome
What started as a whimsical project in 2017 with the first Joker watch has turned out into a highly popular series of watches with a striking facial appearance. And even almost a decade later, indie watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin is still brimming with ideas to expand the collection even further. Under the name of Wristmon, he’s […]
Monochrome
While A. Lange & Söhne is the most esteemed and historic player on the Glashütte block with traditions reaching back to 1845, the brand hones its Saxon pragmatism by introducing ingenious and contemporary solutions to age-old problems. The 1815 Tourbillon, released in 2014, is a prime example. A classic to the core, the 1815 Tourbillon […]
Monochrome
The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds has been one of the Saxon manufacture‘s greatest expressions of chronometric watchmaking since it first appeared in 2016. The debut model, cased in platinum with a solid silver dial, was produced in a 100-piece edition and immediately stood out for its rigorous regulator-style display and its […]
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne has just unveiled the fourth livery for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, now featuring a pink gold dial. The Jumping Seconds made its debut in 2016, but its unusual feature set and harmonious layout remain impressive nine years later. The new model is a 100-piece limited edition in 18k white gold and features what collectors will no-doubt refer to as a ‘salmon’ dial. But unlike most ‘salmon’ dials that are plated, the dial of the Jumping Seconds is solid 18k pink gold. In other words, its colour is more than skin-deep. Initial thoughts Though it feels like we must be on the tail end of the trend toward salmon dials, Lange’s pink gold dials always look good and might stir up interest in what still feels like an underrated watch. Nearly a decade after launch, the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds remains one of the great regulator-style wristwatches. There’s an extraordinary coherence at play between the design, which references a historical German pocket watch and elevates the deadbeat seconds display, and the movement, which features a one-second remontoir and a return-to-zero mechanism. As ever, the Jumping Seconds presents a wearable 39.9 mm case in 18k white gold, and at just 10.6 mm thick it’s pretty sleek for a watch with so much going on inside. Like its stablemates, it features the characteristic Lange case with a brushed case band and faceted lugs that are attached separately. The L094.1 movement fills the case beautifully, and differ...
Time+Tide
Lange unveils a1815 Tourbillon in 950 platinum and a Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in white gold to close off their 2025 releases.The post A. Lange & Söhne’s September slate pairs two studies in precision: a platinum 1815 Tourbillon plus a sultry salmon Richard Lange Jumping Seconds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
First introduced in 2014 as A. Lange & Söhne’s “entry-level” tourbillon (if there is such a thing for the German brand), the 1815 Tourbillon now returns as a limited edition in a striking, but familiar, guise. The new 1815 Tourbillon features a glossy black enamel dial – similar to that found on this year’s Minute Repeater Perpetual – and the same L102.1 movement found in the original version. Like the much pricier Minute Repeater Perpetual, the new tourbillon is not a Handwerkskunst edition, but still boasts a hand-enamelled dial made in-house. Initial thoughts As the base model tourbillon in Lange’s catalogue, the 1815 Tourbillon is less elaborate than the brand’s other tourbillon offerings. But it is nonetheless impressive as the tourbillon incorporates both a hacking and zero-reset mechanism. At most other brands, such a movement would be a top-of-the line offering. That said, the earlier versions were a bit plain. Even the limited edition with a white enamel dial was a little mundane. The Handwerkskunst version was outstanding, but it was just 30 pieces. The new 1815 Tourbillon isn’t extravagantly different; it is essentially a cosmetic update. But it makes all the difference. The glossy black dial is tremendously more appealing than the white enamel dial from before, especially since it is achieved with the champleve technique, eliminating the need for printed numerals. That said, it feels a little soon after the Minute Repeater Perpetual that has ...
Fratello
Unless you have lived under a rock for four years, you have probably seen and read about the CIGA Design Blue Planet. The distinctive take on a modern watch garnered excitement from watch fans worldwide and won a GPHG award in 2021. We have seen multiple versions of CIGA Design’s remarkable titanium and stainless steel […] Visit CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Behrens teams up with Vianney Halter for the bold, electric meter-inspired KWH Watch, in white or rose gold. A unit of measurement for electricity, KWH is short for “kilowatt-hour” and refers to the electric meter inspiration for the design. The extremely dense movement combines the brand’s chain-driven hour display with rotating minute and power reserve cylinders, and a surprise on the back. It also represents a new frontier for the Chinese brand, as its most expensive offering yet. Initial Thoughts While Behrens’ watches do not always appeal to me aesthetically, I think the brand is an ideal champion for Chinese watchmaking. Unlike some brands marketing Chinese-built watches to global enthusiasts, Behrens is Chinese owned and operated. The brand’s founder, Lin Bingqiang, cut his teeth making parts and custom modules in Shenzhen for brands down in Hong Kong before starting Behrens in 2012. An exploded view of the 870 part movement. Many Chinese manufacturers excel at the engineering and manufacturing side, but have weak soft skills and lack vision. Behrens is strong on all fronts, and this is the brand’s most ambitious, and expensive, project yet. The brand may be over-reliant on computer-generated imagery, but I can confirm these watches are real, functional, and doing the rounds at Geneva Watch Week. Case On the heels of a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin, Vianney Halter’s partnership is now with Behrens. This comes only days after Mr Halter’s coll...
Teddy Baldassarre
More so than almost any other color option, a watch with a red dial begs to be noticed - whether the watch is large or small, simple or complicated, soberly matte or luxuriously shiny in its choice of case material. It’s not hard to see why: crimson and scarlet tones have long symbolized heat, sensuality, and even hints of temptation and danger. Best of all, for anyone inclined to take the plunge into red-dial watches, there are more options these days than ever, in just about every price range and style. Here we showcase 25 watches with red dials, some of which you can buy new and some which might require a little hunting on the secondary market. Orient Bambino Day-Date Price: $430, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug to Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic F6B22 Often under the radar of American watch consumers and overshadowed by its much larger Japanese brethren, Citizen and Seiko (which with it shares a corporate connection through Epson), Orient has been making value-oriented watches in Japan since 1950. The Bambino, Orient’s dressy gents’ model, mostly offers simple three-handed options but also a handful of “quiet” complications, like the intriguing designed Bambino Day-Date, here in a red-dialed execution. The Roman hour numerals and railway minute track surround a pair of asymmetrically balanced subdials, a smaller one at 10 o’clock for the day of the week and a larger one at 5 o’c...
Monochrome
Launched in 2015, the Pioneer collection has become H. Moser & Cie’s vision of an everyday watch: robust yet elegant, refined yet versatile, and water-resistant to 120m. Alongside it, the brand has also explored original ways of displaying time, like the Flying Hours, introduced in 2018 in the Endeavour line and marking Moser’s entry into […]
Monochrome
The year 1969 is etched in Zenith’s history as the birth of El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre. It was also the debut year of the Defy, a rugged sports watch nicknamed the “vault” for its robust construction and avant-garde angular design. Over the past few years, Zenith has revisited these late-1960s […]
Monochrome
Trilobe, the young French indie brand, is marking its seventh anniversary with the release of the Trente-Deux, a luxury sports watch collection that retains the unconventional time display created by the brand’s founder, Gautier Massonneau. While the dial borrows design cues from the Nuit Fantastique, the sporty yet elegant stainless steel case and integrated bracelet […]
Monochrome
Since 1967, the Doxa SUB series has been a benchmark in underwater timekeeping, bringing the cushion-shaped case, patented no-decompression bezel and high-contrast dials to professional and recreational divers alike. In 2002, the brand introduced the SUB 750T, a bolder, oversized companion built for extreme depths. For its 20th anniversary, Doxa paid tribute to one of […]
Quill & Pad
Naissance d’une Montre 3 by Ferdinand Berthoud is a series of 11 completely hand crafted watches powered by a unique combination of a split bimetallic temperature-compensated Guillaume-type balance wheel and a constant-force fusee-and-chain transmission system.
Monochrome
What follows is not just the story of a watch, but also that of an extraordinary project – the Naissance d’une montre 3 or Birth of a Watch 3 in English. The Naissance d’une Montre started as a collaborative initiative launched in 2009 by the Time Æon Foundation to preserve and transmit traditional watchmaking techniques. […]
Monochrome
Now in the hands of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, alongside Daniel Roth, watchmaking brand Gérald Genta came back on the scene last year with one of the boldest and least expected creations, the Gentissima Oursin collection. A watch paying tribute to the man’s bold designs, it will be joined this year by a […]
Monochrome
If you are attending the sixth edition of Geneva Watch Days, don’t miss Bulgari’s retrospective of the Octo Finissimo’s impressive trajectory in the ultra-thin watchmaking arena since 2014. Alongside the record-breaking models is a new Octo Finissimo collaboration model made with Korean artist Lee Ufan, the latest in a long line of artists and architects […]
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer is marking the rollout of its new-and-improved, and in-house, carbon hairsprings – timed to coincide with the 350th anniversary of the hairspring’s invention – with a pair of chronographs: the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring. More than just two new watches, the TH-Carbonspring is a notable technical achievement that might promise an entirely new generation of TAG Heuer movements equipped with oscillators that boast all of the advantages of silicon, but with added robustness. Protected by several patents, TH-Carbonspring is also the result of a fascinating process of research and development to overcome a surprising problem. Kitted out in carbon composite dials and cases, the two watches are centred on TAG Heuer’s latest-generation carbon-nanocomposite balance springs, with each being a limited edition of just 50 pieces Initial thoughts Both models serve as a launch platform for TAG Heuer’s improved and industrialisation-ready carbon hairspring. While the brand has been flirting with carbon hairsprings since 2019, its use of the technology has been intermittent and on limited scale. TAG Heuer explains previous attempts at carbon springs were not up to the brand’s standards, which is to say the hairsprings did not perform as expected and could not be produced at scale. The new TH-Carbonspring indicates TAG Heuer has perfected the technology to make reliable hairsprings, which m...
Fratello
It looks like a watch, and it sounds like a musical instrument. The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater is a resonating 40 × 9.6mm yellow gold grand complication with a black onyx dial. And according to the watch’s creators, a musical instrument comes alive when you sound the time. The watchmakers behind this masterpiece set out […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater - A Small Watch With A Big Sound to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The reborn Gérald Genta has just unveils a simply-titled complicated watch, the Minute Repeater. Although a new design, the striking timepiece harks back to Gérald Genta’s golden age in the late 20th century, in both style and quality of execution. The case takes a clean, cushion-shaped form, while the dial is glossy black onyx. And inside ticks the GG-002, a hand-wind movement derived from the longstanding repeater movement made by Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the parent of Gérald Genta. Though not a limited edition, the yearly output will be limited to 10 pieces. Initial thoughts Big-name brand revivals are not always successful endeavours, since it is often difficult for new patrons to recapture the spirit and style of the original, while also making it financially viable. Gérald Genta is clearly an exception. It was relaunched in 2023 by Louis Vuitton, allowing it to lean more towards genuine quality rather than a flash in the pan. The Minute Repeater is a welcome and original addition to the brand’s collection, embodying the late Genta’s instinctive design flair and aesthetic sensibilities, while being a new(ish) design. An especially pleasant surprise is the original case shape that certainly looks very Gérald Genta, but wasn’t previously in the catalogue, though Genta did pen similar cases in the past. In other words, this is not a remake. The shape sits between an ellipse and a rounded rectangle, capturing the gist of the 1970s design we...
Fratello
For Geneva Watch Days 2025, TAG Heuer has brought a surprising number of new models. One of the favorites is the subject of this article. The Carrera Astronomer is a new addition to the lineup and is available in three references. As we’ll soon see, one is destined for serial production, while two are limited […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Have TAG finally perfected carbon hairspring technology, and will this be a game changer - for them and the rest of the watch industry?The post TAG Heuer debuts two chronographs with revolutionary carbon hairsprings, a technology they’ve been developing for almost a decade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Frédérique Constant has built its reputation on making high complications more accessible, and few models embody that approach as clearly as the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. First introduced in 2016, the brand’s QP was, at launch, the most affordable manufacture perpetual calendar on the market. Nearly a decade later, and following updates such as the […]
Monochrome
Laurent Ferrier is among the most laureled independent watchmakers in recent years, and for good reason. The brand seems to effortlessly blend shapes, colours and mechanics into fascinating yet elegantly discreet watches, even if we’re dealing with a world timer or a tourbillon watch. A prime example is the Sport Auto, one of Frank Geelen’s (our […]
Fratello
What if the 1969 Defy had been outfitted with an El Primero chronograph movement? And what if its design had been inspired by the USM Haller modular furniture system that debuted four years earlier? The answer is the 2025 Zenith Defy Chronograph USM. The four watches with dials in USM shades and subtle details linking […] Visit What Happens When Two Swiss Icons From The 1960s Collaborate? Introducing The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM to read the full article.
Hodinkee
A natural onyx dial and lab-grown diamonds combines with a modernized take on the Disco Volante for an attractive-and limited-release. We look at the history of precious stone indices and historical takes on the "flying saucer" design.
Worn & Wound
When we first opened the doors to our Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn-based showroom in December of last year, the idea was simple: create a space where people could engage with watches and gear in a more meaningful way. Over the past nine months, that idea has grown into something larger-a cultural hub where community, creativity, and horology all intersect. Recently, the showroom took on a new role as a screening space for the documentary short Giles. Directed by filmmaker and documentarian Taylor Scott Mason, and featuring the work of photographer-turned-watchmaker Giles Clement, this doc dives into the process of designing and building a watch from scratch. On the night of the premiere, the showroom transformed into a small theater with seating for our special guests. Collectors, enthusiasts, and friends of the brand gathered for the screening, which was followed by a live Q&A; with both the director and subject of the film. The conversation offered a behind-the-scenes look not only at the making of the film, but also at both the creative and quirky ups and downs of bringing a watch concept to life in Brooklyn. Taylor Scott Mason brings a rich, global perspective to the film. Originally from Washington state and now based in Brooklyn, Mason moved to New York City in 2006 and has since built a diverse body of work across documentary, commercial, and editorial filmmaking-working in over 50 countries and highlighting his robust experience in storytelling through visual ...
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to think that the first Antarctique is just five years old. In that time, what started as a bit of a surprise from a relatively unknown independent brand has become core to our understanding of independent sports watches, and the Antarctique in particular has become one of watchmaking’s most compelling platforms. Whether it be interpreted as a compact time-only sports watch or a highly complicated marvel, the Antarctique has been hard to ignore. Now, Czapek is bringing back one of its most notable variations - with a bit of a twist. The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante ‘R.U.R.’ builds on what may be the most compelling Antarctiques to date (the GPHG Nominated Rattrapante Ice Blue), but brings in a bit of sci-fi to turn it into something fun and different. The new grey and blue colorway is a big part of this, as is the use of a fictional robotic language inspired by the Predator movies, but the most notable addition when compared to the Rattrapante Ice Blue is undoubtedly the inclusion of a robot’s head at 12 o’clock. This micro-sculpture - which, in titanium, is hand-polished, laser-engraved, and micro-painted to achieve an impressive amount of fine detail and depth - was made for Czapek by MD’Art, who previously collaborated with Czapek to make the mirror-finished dial used on the Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition last year. The robot head sits just above the column wheel on the dial side of the watch and has eyes that cha...
Monochrome
When De Bethune first unveiled the DB25 Starry Varius, it quickly became one of the brand’s most poetic and recognisable creations. A starry sky rendered in shimmering blued or polished titanium, dotted with hand-fitted white gold pins and illuminated by the Milky Way in delicate 24-carat gold leaf, it was, quite literally, a firmament on […]
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