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Fratello
Though 2025 may be drawing to a close, Panerai isn’t ready to stop just yet. Just in time for the holiday season, we have a new limited-edition piece that should please collectors who love retro details. The new Luminor Marina PAM01759 is the type of watch I love seeing from the brand due to its […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01759 Limited Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The uniform of high complications almost invariably includes a leather strap; a metal bracelet remains an uncommon pairing with, say, a grande sonnerie. Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, however, brings an unexpected abundance of complicated watches on bracelets for collectors who prefer metal, including notable examples from Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne. This season’s sale is anchored by two major private collections, most prominently the second part of The Chronicle Collection, the first half of which was dispersed earlier in the spring. The consignor began collecting in the 1990s, a fact reflected in the depth of neo-vintage highlights throughout the catalogue. Lot 2442 - Patek Philippe ref. 3448⁄8 with Possibly Unique Ruby Dial The Patek Philippe ref. 3448 was the first self-winding perpetual calendar produced in series. According to movement numbers, it is likely 586 were made in total - this lug-less example was one of the first made. Beyond its historical interest, the ref. 3448 is underpinned by one of – if not the – most beautiful automatic movements ever made: the cal. 27-460 Q. Looks aside, it was one of the most technically competent automatics of its era, with an overcoil hairspring, free-sprung balance, and bi-directional winding using a cam and pawl system. Atop this worthy base calibre, the ref. 3448 adds the iconic windows perpetual calendar by none other than Victorin Piguet. The ‘/8’ in ref. 3448/8 suffix denotes the style ...
Fratello
Circula, known for its collection of high-quality mechanical tool watches, recently presented its fourth diver. We put it through its paces on dry land and weren’t disappointed. Inspired by the brand’s ProTrail and ProFlight models, the ProSea combines conventional diving watch design with modern elements and techniques. Hands-on with the new Circula ProSea Automatic For […] Visit Hands-On With The New Circula ProSea to read the full article.
Time+Tide
GP masterfully combines its signature movement design with its integrated sports watch for the latter's 50th anniversary.The post Girard-Perregaux goes multifaceted with the new Laureato Three Gold Bridges appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The lightest Monaco ever made, its unusually-shaped case is formed by a cutting-edge, "laser-melting" 3D printing process.The post TAG Heuer’s Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 is a lightweight, cutting-edge take on an icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Italy's echo/neutra has shrunken the proportions of its incredibly popular titanium dress watch for a more elegant take.The post echo/neutra unveils a new, smaller Rivanera with an ultra-black twist: introducing the Rivanera Piccolo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we shine the spotlight on five recent highlights that may make it onto our year-end lists. Just when you thought 2025 was coming to an end, we have seen some amazing new watches. With Dubai Watch Week, the horological calendar has an event late in the year that is […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Late Highlights Of 2025 - Featuring Grand Seiko, Lebois & Co, Nomos, And More… to read the full article.
Monochrome
Dubai is home to the Deep Dive Dubai, the world’s deepest pool for scuba diving, freediving, and snorkelling, if you want to play it safe. The ocean also offers plenty of opportunities to explore the underwater world, so a cool dive watch is guaranteed to get attention. The new SUB 300 Beta Ceramic Dubai Watch […]
Worn & Wound
For the second time this week, TAG Heuer has introduced a rather audacious Monaco. Yesterday we told you about the all new Air 1, a flagship of sorts that puts all of TAG’s resources to bear on a split second chronograph with no compromises. Today, TAG debuts a Monaco that’s a bit more accessible but no less specialized, a watch that is meant for F1 fans celebrating the unique experience of the circuit’s night races. Even a casual F1 observer (I count myself in this category) can appreciate the spectacle of a night race. It’s a very different aesthetic experience than a race run during daylight hours, and the new limited edition Monaco seen here really leans into that night race vibe with some dramatic applications of color throughout. To start, it’s built on a 39mm titanium case that has been DLC coated, and given a skeletonized dial treatment that we’ve seen from a bunch of earlier Monaco limited editions at this point. Where this watch really sets itself apart though a gradient effect that is layered throughout the dial and unique lume application. Multiple lume colors are employed to draw the eye to either the chronograph or time telling functions, depending use case. The chronograph totalizers at 3 and 9 are rendered in blue, with turquoise hands, while green glowing lume is found on the primary hour and minute hands. There’s also additional purple lume throughout the minute track, and the bridges themselves have been given a gradient effect that range...
Hodinkee
The revived brand by LVMH's La Fabrique du Temps goes for a hat trick with a monochromatic take on its tourbillon watch.
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Monochrome
Frederique Constant and Bamford Watch Department approach watch design from opposite corners of the industry, yet both operate within clear, self-defined parameters. Frederique Constant has built its reputation on accessible mechanical watchmaking, manufacturing calibres in-house and maintaining a pragmatic, function-first approach to design. Bamford, by contrast, is known for reinterpreting established forms through high-contrast palettes, […]
Worn & Wound
Dubai Watch Week is upon us, and TAG Heuer is using it as a launching pad for for a new version of what is objectively one of the most impressive watches they’ve ever made. The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 builds on the Monaco Split-Seconds that was introduced at Watches & Wonders in 2024. That one, you’ll recall, had a movement fashioned largely from titanium and weighed in at just 85 grams. The retail price at the time was a head scratching CHF 135,000, but it was also an incredibly impressive caliber and feat of engineering. Rattrapante chronographs like this are indeed quite rare, and certainly one with a caliber made of titanium is unheard of and adds additional layers of complexity to whole endeavor. The new Air 1 version of the watch is still 85 grams, but it achieves that weight even with new solid gold components in the case. The design of the case, still in the iconic Monaco square, has been substantially reworked and inspired by design and manufacturing processes that are part of the Formula 1 landscape. The case has effectively been hollowed out, with intricately skeletonized case flanks designed to maximize the weight to performance ratio. TAG Heuer achieves this through a process they refer to as Selective Laser Melting (SLM). This is an additive manufacturing process that is typically applied in aerospace, medical, and automotive manufacturing, and like other forms of 3-D printing it’s essentially a cheat code in achieving otherwise impossi...
Worn & Wound
Tudor just released a watch that fans have been clamoring for and perhaps manifesting since at least 2022. That’s the year Tudor released a new 39mm Ranger to a great deal of fanfare and also a great deal of “Well, this would be even better if it was just a little smaller.” To be fair, that 39mm Ranger was perceived by most as an improvement over the 41mm Ranger, introduced in 2014 during an era when the enthusiast voice demanding vintage inspired watches match actual vintage proportions was much quieter. Now, with a new Ranger in 36mm, it feels like it’s finally back to the correct size. What’s more, Tudor has taken this as an opportunity to release the Ranger in a new dial color. The “Dune” colorway is a really appealing, creamy off-white with contrasting black indices and Arabic numerals. The hands match the color of the dial but have been given a black outline to improve legibility, which looks great. The key difference between the black dial (also available in a 36mm size and unchanged in layout from the larger version) is that the Dune dial does not have lumed numerals, but small lume plots next to each numeral. The case, of course, is smaller, but the general design and proportions do not appear to have changed. It’s dominated by a brushed finish which bolsters the tool watch roots of the Ranger, and has a water resistance rating of 100 meters. The Ranger runs on the COSC certified MT5400 automatic movement, which has 70 hours of power reserve on...
Monochrome
After the release of what is regarded as the blueprint of the first integrated sports watch in 1972, others quickly followed, including Girard-Perregaux. Launched in 1975, the Laureato was the brand’s answer to the growing demand for a watch with an integrated design. It is one of the earliest, yet also one of the most […]
SJX Watches
Chopard marks 30 years of the Chopard Manufacture with the L.U.C Grand Strike – its most ambitious complication to date, a minute repeating clock watch with grande et petite sonnerie striking on a pair of sapphire gongs. This comes on the heels of Chopard’s sister brand, Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance d’une Montre 3, making 2025 arguably the most significant year for Chopard, product wise, since the 1997 launch of L.U.C. Initial Thoughts For hundreds of years the sound of clocks coordinated human society. In fact, the very word “clock” comes from the Latin word clocca, meaning bell. Before the noise pollution of the modern day, the bells of clock towers could disseminate accurate time over several miles. It is only that many first complicated the first watches, which were made by clock makers during the 16th century, were equipped with strikes. In 2016 Chopard launched its first self-developed chiming watch, the L.U.C Full Strike, a two-train trip repeater with sapphire gongs. It is not much of a surprise, I’ve multiple people speculate that a grande sonnerie was the next step given the design depictions Chopard made with the Full Strike. Even the name, “Full Strike” sounds like the name of a grande sonnerie, not just a repeater. The Grand Strike is class leading technically, it’s only weakness, the middling strike work power reserve is easily forgiven when considering its size. Aesthetically, however, the watch struggles, at least for me, though the si...
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Monochrome
A slightly more discreet member of the Tudor collection, with the Black Bay stealing the show, the Ranger is the brand’s vision of an all-rounder exploration watch, inspired by a model first seen in the late 1960s. Tudor brought back the model in 2014, with the Tudor Heritage Ranger 79910, measuring 41mm in diameter and […]
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth continues its thoughtful return with the Tourbillon Platinum, a contemporary take on the brand’s signature double-ellipse design. While the design remains faithful to the original, the latest version elevates every element, from the crisp pinstripe guilloche to the slightly thinner case. The first platinum model in the brand’s recent history, the watch features the same purpose-built DR001 movement we’ve seen previously, which encapsulates the blend of traditional craft and contemporary styling that defines the brand. Initial thoughts The rebirth of Daniel Roth under the aegis of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) is something that I’ve followed with interest. With a team led by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, contemporaries and friends of Mr Roth, LFT has pulled off the rare feat of a remake that, at least in a tangible sense, exceeds the original. While the romance of a founder-led operation is impossible to fully replicate, it’s difficult to point to any single aspect of the Tourbillon Platinum that isn’t substantively improved compared to the original C187 of 1988. This speaks to the vast resources of LFT, which was able to design a form movement from the ground up to fit the brand’s supremely elegant double-ellipse case. This bespoke development cycle differs from what Mr Roth had to deal with when he became the first independent watchmaker to produce a tourbillon wristwatch in series. By starting over from scratch, LFT was able to produce a thinn...
Worn & Wound
I love the Zenith Defy. I never miss an opportunity to tell people that it’s my favorite sports watch line of all time. I’m guessing that I’ve had a version of this conversation so many times over the years that my colleagues and watch-friends can feel it coming at this point. I can sense that eye roll is not far behind me going over once again how the Defy has always represented the ideal meeting place between the avant-garde and true sports watch engineering. Look, I make no apologies. If you can’t see that the Defy has been a subtle influence on everything from the Royal Oak to the most generic Rolex sports watches, well, stay tuned for my long threatened multi-part solo podcast series unpacking my personal obsession with these watches. One of the things that has always fascinated me about the Defy is how it can be anything. The watches in this collection have never fit neatly into a specific mold, and unlike, say, the Rolex Submariner, which has basically looked like the same watch since its debut, the Defy has always been a shapeshifter. The only thing steady about the design has been that it could always morph and change into something radical and different, and often something that is not to everyone’s taste (even longtime fans of the collection). That’s basically what’s been on my mind since learning of the new Zenith Defy Extreme Lapis Lazuli, a maximal take on the sports watch that latches on to some current trends. This is a Defy Extreme, so it...
Monochrome
The latest watch in the Horological Machine series by MB&F;, the HM11 is a true architectural experiment, but for the wrist: a quatrefoil case composed of four functional rooms surrounding a central atrium that hosts a flying tourbillon. Introduced in 2023 as the HM11 Architect, the concept combined an immediately tactile user ritual with an […]
Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier’s turnaround, orchestrated by CEO Guido Terreni, is remarkable because it has been achieved on the back of one collection: the Tonda PF. Introduced just four years ago, the Tonda PF family now accounts for 85% of the brand’s sales. Often described as the brand’s luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the adjective […]
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Monochrome
Founded by former A. Lange & Söhne watchmakers Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys, indie watchmaking atelier Kallinich Claeys has quickly become one of the most interesting names in contemporary Glashütte watchmaking. Their debut watch, the Einser Zentralsekunde, introduced a clear design approach and a thoughtfully constructed, in-house movement with central seconds and a linear power reserve […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo collection has been a presence in the larger luxury-watch universe for just slightly over a decade now, but its impact has been tremendous - blazing trails of ultra-thinness in watchmaking that few brands have attempted and fewer have even attempted to rival. Today, the Octo Finissimo, in its simplest and most complex iterations, is regarded by enthusiasts as the creative cornerstone of the Bulgari brand, which up until very recently has been known more for high-jewelry watches than ambitious, record-setting mechanical complications. Here’s how the Octo Finissimo became an icon in 10 short years - starting from the very beginning. [toc-section heading="Bulgari History (1884-1934)"] Sotirios Voulgaris, the only survivor of 11 children from a family of silversmiths in the Greek town of Paramythia, was born in 1857 and learned the family craft from his father, making jewelry as well as sword sheaths and belt buckles. After Ottoman invaders set fire to the town in 1873, the family moved to the Isle of Corfu, where Voulgaris met the man who’d become his mentor, Macedonian goldsmith Demetrios Kremos. The two artisans decided to start a business in Italy, settling first in Naples, and eventually in Rome, where they opened their first shop in 1884. After just a few months, however, the partnership ended and Voulgaris - who had now changed his name to the more Italianate “Sotirio Bulgari” - opened up his own shop, which found success sel...
Fratello
With the Fratello Dress Watch Season competition in full swing, our site has seemingly been full of expensive, heavy-hitting, precious-metal formal watches. That’s why, for today’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we decided to do something a bit different. This is the featherweight bout between two affordable integrated-bracelet sports watches. This is the Citizen Super Titanium Zenshin […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Super Titanium Zenshin Small Seconds Vs. Tissot PRX Titanium 38mm to read the full article.
Fratello
Let’s be honest: dropping roughly €10k on a gold Nomos is a real commitment. Given the sought-after and intricate timepieces in that price level, a restrained watch with a focus on quality over flair is a power move. But the Tangente Neomatik in gold is one for Bauhaus connoisseurs. The use of gold may up […] Visit Introducing: The Nomos Tangente Neomatik In Solid 18K Gold to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Being surprised by a dive watch is a rare occurrence at this point in the watch industry, except for a few brands trying to break the mold. The formula is relatively simple. Take a large case, add a snappy bezel, give it a legible design language, and what you end up with tends to be a staple model in your collection. What that leads to, though, is a sea of look-alike options with slightly different specs and price points, leading to enthusiast banter over slight obscurities. However, for a watch to tweak the formula with considered, bold design choices and still win me over is a rare thing. That is why, with over 140 brands and thousands of watches on display, I found myself returning to the Jacques Bianchi booth all three days of the Windup Watch Fair in New York City to handle the JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.edc collaboration dive watch. Unfortunately, if you were not among the over 11,000 attendees at this year’s Windup Watch Fair in NYC and, furthermore, did not manage to squeeze into the Jacques Bianchi booth, your chances of seeing this watch in person are now slim to none. Within hours of officially launching the JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.EDC, all 150 individually numbered units have officially been sold and will be delivered to their excited owners in January of 2026. Given that reaction, it’s hard to imagine this being the last we hear of these two. The fever behind the collaboration came as no surprise to me, in part due to the specifications, but also the stori...
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