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Exploring Evergreens: The Current Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN Fratello
Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN Jul 20, 2024

Exploring Evergreens: The Current Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN

The current generation of Rolex Submariner Date has been out for four years. That might seem like a short time, but a lot has changed. The watch world - heck, even the actual world - looks different than it did in 2020. The Rolex Submariner is no longer unobtainium. Much of the hype that set […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Current Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN to read the full article.

The Evergreens – The History of the ETA Peseux 7001, The Hand-Wound Classic That Stood the Test of Time Monochrome
Jul 19, 2024

The Evergreens – The History of the ETA Peseux 7001, The Hand-Wound Classic That Stood the Test of Time

Self-winding calibres are undeniably an advancement, especially those boasting extended autonomy. Yet, there is a timeless ritual, almost archaic, the deliberate act of winding a watch by thumb and forefinger, each click of the ratchet wheel a symphony for the discerning ear. This tactile dance, this connection to the mechanics, is a pleasure some aficionados […]

Lorier’s Latest Release Embraces Motorcycle Culture Worn & Wound
Omega 6B/159 More importantly than Jul 19, 2024

Lorier’s Latest Release Embraces Motorcycle Culture

Lorier surprised us at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago last week with a new release dubbed the Rambler, a collaboration with Indiana based Janus Motorcycles. For Lorier to collaborate with a motorcycle brand might not make much sense at first, but stepping back, the two brands are very much in sync. Both have a trade in classic aesthetics rooted in mid century styles, and both brands prize simplicity in design. Most of all, Janus and Lorier both place a high value on actually getting out and using their products authentically. The experiences tied to riding or the types of sporting activities you might undertake while wearing a Lorier are core to each brand, and the Rambler evokes and invites those experiences in the same way that the brand’s prior watches have been successful in doing so.  The Rambler is built on the same 36mm case that will be familiar to owners of the Astra and the Falcon. Like those watches (especially the Falcon) the Rambler is inspired by the classic field watch. Something Lorier does in their marketing materials that I always appreciate is draw direct parallels to specific watches that provided inspiration in the design process, and for the Rambler they’ve cited classic field and pilot’s watches like the Rolex Oyster Imperial, Universal Geneve 20504, and the Omega 6B/159. More importantly than the specific references though, Lorier ties the Rambler to motorcycle culture through the people who would have worn those watches. These are the war ...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jul 19, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Guide

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of those historical, influential timepieces that has been occasionally imitated but never really equaled in its appeal. Tracing its origins back nearly a hundred years, It is the most prominent and enduring example of Art Deco design in the 21st Century watch world and one of the first and most successful examples of a tool watch that transcended its utilitarian origins to become a stylish and indisputably unisex fashion accessory. Read on to discover everything you need to know about the Reverso and how it has maintained its iconic status in a century of shifting trends and industry headwinds. Foundations: Jaeger Meets LeCoultre Antoine LeCoultre Today a watchmaking house renowned for both its high-luxury pedigree and a high-horology acumen nearly unmatched in the industry, Jaeger-LeCoultre had the humblest of beginnings. In 1833 Antoine LeCoultre (1803 - 1881), descendant of farmers and blacksmiths, started making timepieces in his family’s small barn in Le Sentier in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Learning metallurgy from his father at the family forge, LeCoultre developed an early interest in watchmaking and proved to be an influential innovator of his era. His so-called “millionomètre,” completed in 1844, had a profound impact on the precise manufacture of watch parts as it was the first instrument able to measure 1/1000ths of a millimeter, aka microns. At the 1851 Great Exhibition in London’s Hyde Park, LeCoultre was awa...

Business News: Biver Names James Marks CEO SJX Watches
Blancpain Jul 19, 2024

Business News: Biver Names James Marks CEO

Established two years ago by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver has just named the first outsider to its management ranks with James Marks as chief executive officer. The longtime head of Phillips Perpetual, the auctioneer’s watch boutique headquartered in London, Mr Marks is now based in Zurich for his new role; he remains a consultant to Phillips. (Pictured above, from left: James Marks, Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver.) Now 74 years old, the inimitable Jean-Claude Biver is something of an industry legend for having resurrected Blancpain and Hublot, but his eponymous brand is the first venture that is his own. Or more specifically, a Biver family affair: his youngest son Pierre, who is turning 25 this year, was cofounder of the brand. Mr Marks, who is 44 years old, will both help lead the brand as well as manage the transition from one generation of Bivers to the next. The movement of the one-off Biver Catharsis Minute Repeater Carillon Mr Marks is a longtime watch enthusiast who was a fund manager before he joined the watch industry six years ago. Soon after he set up Perpetual, a then-novel concept for an auction house where watches were available for sale year-round and not only during auction season. One of his earliest hires was Pierre Biver as an intern. Both an industry insider and outsider, Mr Marks is expected to bring a new perspective to Biver. Although the brand has only sold a few dozen watches to date, it has garnered volumes of praise and criticism...

Hands-On With A Horological Poem - The Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise Blue Fratello
Trilobe Jul 19, 2024

Hands-On With A Horological Poem - The Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise Blue

You may have never heard of the French poet René Char (1907–1988), but I’m sure you have heard of some of his friends. He counted among them Albert Camus, Pablo Picasso, and Martin Heidegger. Char’s poems were filled with strange phrases and surreal, provocative images. Trilobe, a Parisian watch brand founded in 2018 by Gautier […] Visit Hands-On With A Horological Poem - The Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise Blue to read the full article.

Visiting the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Manufacture Jul 19, 2024

Visiting the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture

The Plan-les-Ouates district of Geneva is well-known for its concentration of watchmaking facilities, earning it the nickname “Plan-les-Watch”. But the standout structure is arguably the Vacheron Constantin (VC) manufacture, which houses both management functions and production under one roof – or more specifically, under one curving metal skin that wraps over the top of the building from east to west. The area’s other prominent residents include Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Piaget, but you can also find numerous other brands like Frederique Constant, Harry Winston, and Laurent Ferrier clustered together in what feels like a large office park. “Plan-les-Watch” is where most of the actual watchmaking in Geneva gets done, since most brands have relocated their production facilities to the suburbs over time, leaving FP Journe as the only industrial operation in the city’s historic center. And it is here that power is expressed through architecture, from the imposing black glass facade of the Rolex building to the superyacht-like decks that wrap around the Patek Philippe manufacture. The reception at the manufacture. Image – Vacheron Constantin Completed in 2005 to celebrate VC’s 250th anniversary, the Vacheron Constantin building was designed by Bernard Tschumi Architects as a single building. A second wing was then added by the same firm in 2014, increasing both production space and staff amenities.  A key emphasis of the building is lighting, with expansive...

#TBT My Four Vintage Watches Tied To Specific Occasions And Activities Fratello
Casio ns Jul 18, 2024

#TBT My Four Vintage Watches Tied To Specific Occasions And Activities

Morning watch selection is a ritual that is special and specific for every collector. Many variables get involved, starting with the number of watches in someone’s collection. One’s current mood, the weather, planned activities throughout the day, and matching with certain clothes may also come into play. Today, I will focus on random, usual, memorable, […] Visit #TBT My Four Vintage Watches Tied To Specific Occasions And Activities to read the full article.

5 Watches To Start A Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 17, 2024

5 Watches To Start A Collection

Having a collection of watches isn’t generally something you plan on. It’s something that emerges over time, and it’s rarely a linear path. While it may seem natural to focus on finding the perfect watch or watches to fill out your watch box, the reality is that all watches have their faults, and the real key is learning which of those you can live with, and which you can’t. In time, some of those, let’s call them quirks, can even become endearing. With that in mind, instead of looking at watches that will begin a collection, let us take a look at watches that will end up lasting in your collection. Sure, they could start your collection, but they could just as easily end it, whether that collection consists of two watches, or 50.  With that, here are 5 watches that would kick off any collection with a bang, and that I feel would have a high likelihood of sticking around for the long term.  Disclaimer: these selections will lean a bit toward the tool watch end of the spectrum, as those are the watches that I find the most well-rounded and practical for my purposes. If you’re looking for some classier recommendations in the same vein, keep an eye out for a future installment.  Brew Metric The Brew Metric is a remarkably fun, simple watch that represents the sheer creativity happening in the small independent brand space. This is a great watch to start with for a few reasons. First, it can be had in a wide variety of colorways, which range from classic and de...

Introducing: A Flash Of Gold With The Venezianico Nereide Aureo Fratello
Venezianico Nereide Aureo Jul 17, 2024

Introducing: A Flash Of Gold With The Venezianico Nereide Aureo

The Venezianico Nereide Aureo is the latest release from the small Venetian brand. It’s also a dive watch with interesting materials and processes that come together at an affordable price. Let’s check out this intriguingly colored watch. We’ve looked at several Venezianico watches on Fratello and have been impressed with them. Today’s Nereide Aureo uses […] Visit Introducing: A Flash Of Gold With The Venezianico Nereide Aureo to read the full article.

A Hands-On Comparison Of The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT In Two Different Sizes Fratello
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT Jul 17, 2024

A Hands-On Comparison Of The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT In Two Different Sizes

By now, you are probably aware that Christopher Ward is hard to beat in terms of affordable luxury watches. One of the brand’s most popular series is the C63 Sealander, and within it, the GMT models are particularly in demand. We never reviewed the watch, so it was about time that we did. But not […] Visit A Hands-On Comparison Of The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT In Two Different Sizes to read the full article.

Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin cal 1731 Jul 17, 2024

Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches

Repeaters are one of the most complicated mechanisms in watches and over the years the complication has been refined by successive generations of watchmakers. Now, perhaps more than ever, watchmakers dedicate absolute attention to perfecting the quality, speed, accuracy, and durability of the striking works. Various components are required to chime the tunes of time with hammers and gongs. Paradoxically, amongst the most crucial parts of a chiming watch are those that work quietly, or silently, in the background – the governor. One of the most recent new repeater calibres, the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater What is a governor? The governor regulates the speed of the striking pattern, in other words the pace of the individual chimes. A repeater movement contains a separate gear train for the repeating works, which are powered by their own smaller, auxiliary spring. The last component of this train consists of the governor. The governor’s task is to introduce resistance in the repeater train, allowing it to be regulated. Therefore, less resistance accelerates the striking speed, while more resistance slows down the repeater chimes. The Vacheron Constantin cal. 1731 with the secondary spring visible between the hammers The fine-tuning of the repeater’s speed is prized as an essential factor in ensuring a perfect series of chimes. If the pace is too fast, the vibrations of the gongs produce jarring overtones that cancel each other out. If too slow, not o...

Introducing – The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee Brings Back 1972 Memories, with a Twist Monochrome
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Jul 17, 2024

Introducing – The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee Brings Back 1972 Memories, with a Twist

1972 was the year of the final Apollo mission, the dramatic Summer Olympics in Munich and the Watergate scandal. For what concerns us here at MONOCHROME, it was the year when a certain Ferdinand Alexander “Butzi” Porsche became independent and founded the Porsche Design Studio. His first product was a watch, the first black-coated watch […]

Hands-On With The New Squale 1521 Marina Militare Limited Edition Fratello
Squale Jul 17, 2024

Hands-On With The New Squale 1521 Marina Militare Limited Edition

Squale is a brand that holds a warm spot in my heart. I sold Squale watches when I worked at Amsterdam Watch Company. I was involved in the marketing of a limited edition back then, and I have gotten to know the team. It is one of those sympathetic smaller companies that rely on personal […] Visit Hands-On With The New Squale 1521 Marina Militare Limited Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On With Three ’80s-Inspired Casio G-Shock GD-B500 Models Fratello
Casio G-Shock GD-B500 Models What Jul 16, 2024

Hands-On With Three ’80s-Inspired Casio G-Shock GD-B500 Models

What happens if you elongate the design of a G-Shock “Square”? You get the new GD-B500 series. No, I’m just kidding. That’s an unfair and cheeky observation. However, the G-Shock Square is an immediate association as it is such an iconic silhouette. As a result, it’s tempting to compare any square or rectangular digital watch […] Visit Hands-On With Three ’80s-Inspired Casio G-Shock GD-B500 Models to read the full article.

Furlan Marri Introduces an Updated Take on the Disco Volante Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Introduces Jul 16, 2024

Furlan Marri Introduces an Updated Take on the Disco Volante

The latest from Furlan Marri pays tribute to a classic watch design while adding just enough of a twist to make it feel contemporary. The new Disco Volante takes a circular, flying saucer-like case that first became popular in the 1930s as its starting point, and tweaks the formula slightly. Thinking about Furlan Marri’s previous work and the design language they’ve established, the Disco Volante makes a lot of sense in their ongoing project of updating classic Art Deco ideas, and the watch really fits into the current moment as well, which has seen shaped cases and unusual designs pulled from the past and brought up to date for new audiences.  The circular cases seen here have hidden lugs on the back side, so these sit as a perfect circle on the wrist. Cases with no visible lugs, of course, tend to wear a bit smaller, so Furlan Marri has chosen to make these Disco Volantes in 38mm as opposed to the more traditional 36mm cases found on vintage watches in this style. In theory, this should open up the Disco Volante to both men and women who are used to wearing modern watches, but seek something a little unusual and heavily vintage inspired. The integrated crown that sits flush with the case further reinforces the Disco Volante’s shape, as does the gently curved bezel.  Three dial options are available at launch: Havana Disco, Disco Celeste, and Disco Verde. The Havana Disco is perhaps the most striking of the bunch, and acts as a link to Furlan Marri’s very first ...