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HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Dec 9, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic

For many, myself included, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has been a consistent benchmark for  craftsmanship, artfulness, and bravery in watchmaking. Off the top of my head, I can’t even count how many records have been broken with these watches, including all the mind-boggling complications in wafer-thin movements that still maintain that Roman design foundation. In … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection Time+Tide
Doxa dives back into their Nov 30, 2021

DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection

Imagine you’re heading out for a swim or a surf… the sun’s beating down and you have the day to yourself. You glance down to grab the time off your trusty (and waterproof) brightly-coloured watch… When we discuss a brand like DOXA, it’s those fun colours and designs that bring to mind scenes like that. … ContinuedThe post DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition “Le Petit Prince” Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Nov 29, 2021

INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition “Le Petit Prince”

A pilot’s watch has long been considered a cornerstone of any well-rounded watch collection. And when you talk about flieger-type pilot’s watches, the International Watch Company is probably the marque that comes to mind, specifically, their Big Pilot. Well, the Big Pilot lineup just got bigger.  If you’ve come this far, you probably know a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition “Le Petit Prince” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Balancier S2 SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Nov 21, 2021

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Balancier S2

Greubel Forsey’s house style is perhaps best described as contemporary, complicated, and often oversized, which meant some of its watches have a sporty vibe, even if they are not sports watches. The brand only unveiled its first true sports watch – with a 100 m water-resistance rating – two years ago and it was a world time plus tourbillon. The Swiss watchmaker quickly followed up with the Balancier S, a sports watch sans complications. And that has evolved into the Balancier S2, perhaps the brand’s ultimate time-only sports watch. It’s been further streamlined and pared back – and finally gets a matching bracelet in titanium for the integrated-bracelet look that’s now de rigueur for high-end sports watches. Initial thoughts I have always found Greubel Forsey’s watches appealing, despite the astronomical prices (which are justified, to a degree, by the quality), simply because they are original, modern, and extremely well made. But some looked more sporty than they actually were, so all the better that the brand now offers a bona fide sports watch, so that the functionality matches the aesthetic. By that measure the Balancier S2 ticks many boxes. It is functionally simple so the watch is (relatively) thin, and it’s made more wearable with a lightweight titanium case that has a curved back, and the equally lightweight bracelet. One feature that sets the Balancier S2 apart from the original Balancier S is the cleaner look, which works better with it being ...

The Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 20 Years SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 20 Years Nov 18, 2021

The Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 20 Years

Situated behind Geneva’s Old Town and a 20-minute walk from the watchmaker’s Salon facing the lake, the Patek Philippe Museum is one of the world’s greatest collection of timepieces and mechanical objects. Made up of over 2,500 items, the museum is almost singular in the breadth and depth of its collection. Started in 1980 by Philippe Stern, then the President of Patek Philippe and father of Thierry, the collection is now overseen by curator Dr Peter Friess. The museum’s collection can falls into two broad categories: the history of mechanical timekeeping in Europe until 1839, and Patek Philippe timepieces from its founding in 1839. One of the prized items in the former category is a 400-year old, enamelled timekeeper by Jehan Cremsdorff, one of the oldest and most perfectly preserved pocket watches known. The entrance to the museum, which on a recent Saturday had a line outside across two blocks Sedate in dark wood and green carpeted floors, the galleries of the museum occupy two floors, with the third floor being an 8,000-book library and a small exhibit dedicated to the Patek Philippe company that includes a reconstruction of the office once occupied by Henri Stern, grandfather of Thierry and father of Philippe. Guided tours are offered, as is an audio guide. Interestingly, the central section of the library is a display of miniature enamel objects – but not incorporating watches – made in Geneva in the 18th and 19th centuries. Visitors start on the thir...

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021” SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Nov 4, 2021

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021”

Inspired by German “rolling eye” clocks of the mid 20th century, the Joker is now Konstantin Chaykin’s trademark wristwatch. But the Russian watchmaker’s repertoire is far more diverse than the googly-eyed face – watches that tell the time on Mars are another of his specialties. For Only Watch 2021, Mr Chaykin has combined the two concepts in the Martian Tourbillon. The robotic clown face indicates the time and calendar on Mars, while the back reveals a one-minute tourbillon that makes one revolution every Martian minute. Initial thoughts The Joker Selfie Mr Chaykin created for Only Watch 2019 was not merely a simple variation of the standard model, illustrating both Mr Chaykin’s creativity and his desire to put together something genuinely special for the event. With most watches at Only Watch 2019 being variations of existing models, the Joker Selfie was notable for being unique in a technical sense. The watch had a built-from-scratch complication, a new base movement, and even a novel case material (which is being used once again for this year’s creation). The case is Bulat, a high-carbon, patterned steel alloy Once again Mr Chaykin has put together a truly one-off watch for the biennial charity auction. It is impressive and ingenious, with a Martian complication that’s synonymous with Mr Chaykin. Despite all its novelty, it is easily recognisable as a Chaykin wristwatch. Like its predecessor, the Martian Tourbillon has a unique complication, albeit o...

MICRO MONDAYS: The CuleM Skyline GMT Collection Time+Tide
Nov 1, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The CuleM Skyline GMT Collection

When it comes down to it, a watch with a GMT complication is really just a love letter to travelling. Regardless of their original purpose as pilot’s watches or otherwise, whenever someone sees a GMT their mind instantly imagines adjusting that little fourth hand to their home time while taking off to somewhere new and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The CuleM Skyline GMT Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The ice-inspired Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Beijing 2022 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Oct 28, 2021

INTRODUCING: The ice-inspired Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Beijing 2022

Some say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. To be fair, nature as a form of inspiration for design is hardly tied to one individual entity. But within the watch world, when you think of nature-inspired dials, the mind immediately wanders to Grand Seiko. It is a winning formula for the Japanese manufacture, and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The ice-inspired Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Beijing 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Oct 21, 2021

Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana

Following a slew of affordable, vintage-inspired watches, with several made by Habring2, Massena Lab has moved decidedly upmarket with the Old School. The time-only wristwatch retains a typical of the American watch-design studio – once again vintage inspired with a sector-like dial – but boasts a significantly more refined finishing. The model name is a play on words – a reference to its classical design but also the watch is meant to evoke a montre d’école, or “school watch” in English, the graduation project of a watchmaking student. Despite the academic inspiration, the Old School is the work of an experienced watchmaker, Luca Soprana, who cofounded Ateliers 7h38, the complication workshop best known for the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon. Initial thoughts Massena Lab founder William Rohr is an industry veteran – amongst other things he’s been managing director of Antiquorum Switzerland and consultant to Bonhams – who has cultivated a sharp eye for design an details. Mr Rohr also has a finger on the current pulse of watch collecting, and the Old School unsurprisingly encapsulates what many enthusiasts currently desire. The design and movement feature traditional elements that are popular now. It’s not meant to be an intriguing or creative product – it is old school after all – but instead a simple watch executed well. One element that illustrates Mr Massena’s keen eye is the dial. The simple design has just enough flair to make it attrac...

Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Clocks Rock! But Should They Even Be In This Category? Quill & Pad
Oct 11, 2021

Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Clocks Rock! But Should They Even Be In This Category?

So what do we have here? A watch with an innovative escapement style, two minute repeaters, an ultra-thin timepiece, and two clocks: the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève has never seen such a wildly different bunch in one category – not even the Mechanical Exception category, which is kind of a fun free-for-all in terms of mechanical creativity. Join our panel's discussion right here.

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): No Consensus Highlights The Strong Competition Quill & Pad
Oct 8, 2021

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): No Consensus Highlights The Strong Competition

Complication abounds in the 2021 GPHG Calendar and Astronomy category: two perpetual calendars – one of which is of world record-holding thinness – a complete calendar with chronograph, a clever day-date that you can’t help but smile at, a mind-blowingly beautiful moon phase watch, and the world’s smallest planetarium. And our panel members all (well, nearly all) have different favorites to win!

Surfing in Switzerland with the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic When Oct 4, 2021

Surfing in Switzerland with the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

When you think of popular sports in Switzerland beginning with ’S’, naturally skiing or snowboarding spring to mind; soccer sometimes, squash if you’re that way inclined and skydiving at a stretch. Indeed, given the country’s land-locked geographical whereabouts, it will come as a surprise to many that you can also surf there. It’s not some … ContinuedThe post Surfing in Switzerland with the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex? Time+Tide
Rolex ? Here’s Oct 1, 2021

The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex?

Here’s a challenge: check your Instagram feed and see if you can go 24 hours without seeing a Rolex. Even though the brand itself post at a rate of once every two to three days, you’ll still find yourself inundated with pictures of dozens of references. Mind you, there is nothing wrong with this. Yet, … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

History Of Watchmaking: Günter Blümlein, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, And The LMH ‘Supergroup’ Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre IWC Oct 1, 2021

History Of Watchmaking: Günter Blümlein, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, And The LMH ‘Supergroup’

October 1, 2021, marks 20 years since Günter Blümlein passed away at the age of just 58. His untimely death meant that A. Lange & Söhne lost its visionary co-founder, and the watch world lost a charismatic businessman and strategist who was a crucial factor in driving the mechanical renaissance of watchmaking in the late twentieth century. His legacy was – and remains – the three so-called LMH brands, a "supergroup" that went on to form the nucleus of Richemont’s high-level manufacturing capabilities at the turn of the millennium.

EDITOR’S PICK: This guy bought 3 of the same model in different metals & left them in a safe for two decades. This is what happened next. Time+Tide
Omega released Sep 25, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: This guy bought 3 of the same model in different metals & left them in a safe for two decades. This is what happened next.

Editor’s note: Brian King is a man who knows his mind. When Omega released a limited run of George Daniels’ co-axial concept watches in the early 2000s, he knew immediately that he was interested in going deep. Over a couple of months, he bought all three. But that’s only the start of the story. Here he writes … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: This guy bought 3 of the same model in different metals & left them in a safe for two decades. This is what happened next. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Conor McGregor’s baseball pitch showed that he genuinely cares about watches Time+Tide
Sep 23, 2021

Conor McGregor’s baseball pitch showed that he genuinely cares about watches

Conor McGregor is many things, but he’s not much of a pitcher. On Tuesday night he stepped up to the mound before the Chicago Cubs met the Minnesota Twins and joined the long list of celebrities apparently unable to throw a baseball in a straight line. As expected for a former UFC champ, his pitch was … ContinuedThe post Conor McGregor’s baseball pitch showed that he genuinely cares about watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 20, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time

Two years ago Vacheron Constantin created a prototype of an Overseas Dual Time for American mountaineer Cory Richards, who then scaled Mount Everest with the watch. An unusual combination of titanium and tantalum, the prototype was a hit, and soon after sold for just over US$106,000 at auction, with the proceeds going to the National Geographic Society. Its popularity meant Vacheron Constantin (VC) would inevitably put the watch into serial production one way or another. And it has done so – in two versions – with the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph ref. 5510V and Overseas “Everest” Dual Time ref. 7910V. The Everest Chronograph on Mr Richards Initial thoughts I was a fan of the Cory Richards prototype for two reasons. It was intrinsically good looking, in both design and colours, but at the same time it felt original and less similar to other luxury-sports watches. I like the fact that VC translated the prototype into production models without losing the distinctive look and feel. Although the prototype was clearly an Overseas, it had an entirely different case with guards for both the crown and pusher, a feature that has been reproduced on the limited editions. In other words, the Everest editions are not merely the standard models with a new dial. The prototype made for Cory Richards’ ascent of Everest in 2019 The new limited editions both look equally good, though the chronograph is more appealing because of its proportions. It is wider and slightly thick...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 14, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium

First introduced as a handful of limited editions (including for Japanese retailer Yoshida), the minute repeating, luxury-sports watch has finally become a permanent addition to the Audemars Piguet catalogue with the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in Titanium. Despite its low-key looks, a tone-on-tone palette of a smoked, grey dial and brushed titanium case, the Royal Oak repeater  is loud – literally – thanks to the patented Supersonnerie system within, which produces chimes that are clearer and louder than those of a traditional striking wristwatch. Initial thoughts The superb acoustics are unquestionably the focal point of the latest from Audemars Piguet (AP) – it is undeniably a successful striking complication thanks to the clever case (we explained the Supersonnerie in an earlier story). But the design of the Royal Oak repeater is arguably near perfect and worth a leading mention. At a glance the repeater looks very much like a typical Royal Oak, but the dial layout gives it perhaps the most classical face amongst its siblings. It has no date, and instead a small seconds at six to replace the central seconds found on most Royal Oak models. The seconds-at-six layout is typical of a dress watch, and it isn’t special per se, but it is unique for a Royal Oak, which was after all designed as a sports watch. By way of its thinness (at least in its original ref. 5402 “Jumbo” guise), the Royal Oak has always retained an elegant air that resonates wit...

Kari Voutilainen Masterpiece 8 Decimal Repeater – Reprise Quill & Pad
Voutilainen Sep 5, 2021

Kari Voutilainen Masterpiece 8 Decimal Repeater – Reprise

One of the big introductions of 2015 in the collector’s world was A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk Minute Repeater: a watch that both shows and chimes off the time using a “decimal” format of hours, tens of minutes, and minutes rather than the more traditional hours, quarters (15 minutes), and minutes. But the first decimal repeating wristwatch to reach the market wasn’t the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. It was by independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen.

Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar: the sports chronograph with an unusual calendar Deployant
Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Sep 4, 2021

Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar: the sports chronograph with an unusual calendar

Overall we enjoyed the look and feel of the watch. It brought to mind Omega's Speedmaster and its calendar sibiling. Or even more distant, IWC's Ingenier or GST calendar. The contrasting materials and colors gave the watch a sporty look, and the size came with substantial wrist presence. The downside of course, is a rather hefty sports watch more suited for those with thicker wrists.

Tutima M2 Pioneer In Bora Bora, Tahiti: An Aqua-Terrestrial Review (Somebody Had To Do It!) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Tutima Sep 1, 2021

Tutima M2 Pioneer In Bora Bora, Tahiti: An Aqua-Terrestrial Review (Somebody Had To Do It!) – Reprise

“The M2 Pioneer is a pilot’s watch,” Gustavo Calzadilla, Tutima’s U.S. president, stressed to Chris Malburg, explaining that it was not meant to be a diver’s watch. “True,” he countered. “But how often do watch fans ever get into the cockpit or strap on a scuba tank and jump into an 30-degree, gin-clear lagoon?” And that is just what Chris did. Dive in with him right here!

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Upcycle made from recycled plastic Time+Tide
Oris Aquis Date Upcycle made Aug 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Upcycle made from recycled plastic

According to UN Environment, every year as many as 13 million tonnes of plastic leak into the oceans – which is the equivalent of a truck-load every minute. With only 9% of all plastic produced thought to have been recycled, and various aquatic animals suffering dearly as a result, there is a clear need for … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Upcycle made from recycled plastic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bamford takes a step out of their comfort zone with a cracking monopusher chronograph     Time+Tide
Aug 26, 2021

Bamford takes a step out of their comfort zone with a cracking monopusher chronograph    

Walk into a room of watch enthusiasts and mention Bamford London. The first thing that comes to the mind of pretty much anyone you talk to is the brand’s amazing GMTs, flavoured in a broad array of colours. While being synonymous with a specific collection in your catalogue isn’t necessarily a bad thing, most brands … ContinuedThe post Bamford takes a step out of their comfort zone with a cracking monopusher chronograph     appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmon Minotaur SJX Watches
Zodiac edition Jul 28, 2021

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmon Minotaur

Four years after the debut of the Joker – and its myriad subsequent iterations – Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin still manages to surprise and impress. The latest version of Chaykin’s googly-eyed wristwatch is the Wristmon Minotaur. The third instalment in the watchmaker’s annual Chinese zodiac edition, the Minotaur has a case and dial that mimics the head of a bull, since 2021 is the Year of the Ox. Although its hour and minute display are identical to the early versions of the Joker, the Minotaur has been upgraded in several ways, including with a dual-letter day display and a Vaucher base movement. Initial thoughts The Minotaur is another excellent design by Mr Chaykin, and one of his more amusing creations since the original Joker. Not only does the dial form a face, but the case has been reworked to resemble a bull’s head with asymmetric lugs where the upper pair resemble a pair of horns. More importantly, the Minotaur is not merely a tweak of colour or design. Its functionality has been revamped, namely with the nostril display that shows the first two letters of the day. In fact, the novel day display is another example of Mr Chaykin’s ingenious realisation of function following form, but done well enough that it feels just right. And the price of the Minotaur is in line with recent watches in the Wristmon collection, which is around US$22,000. While significantly pricier than the original Joker that cost around about US$7,500, the new ...