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Monochrome
Today, we are ending our series of recap articles focused on the best new watches presented during Watches and Wonders 2024 and Geneva Watch Week (we’ve looked at dive watches, chronographs, dress watches or GMT models)… And what’s better to take a look back at some of the show’s most impressive, technically advanced and innovative […]
Worn & Wound
One of the most interesting stories to emerge from Watches & Wonders (and the surrounding events in Geneva that saw literally hundreds of brands exhibiting new novelties) is the seemingly robust state of truly creative watchmaking happening at all price points. Anyone who strolled through the Beau Rivage (where many of these brands were hanging out, either officially or unofficially) can rattle off a list of favorites: SpanceOne, Sartory Billard, Furlan Marri, and Beda’a are just a few that come immediately to mind. Another brand that we saw (in an unofficial capacity – literally a meeting taken in the Beau Rivage lobby) was Amida, which is not a new name in watchmaking, but a rethinking of a heritage brand that we’ll definitely be keeping our eyes on. The new Amida Digitrend is a reimagining of a watch by the same name released in 1976. The unusual case shape takes inspiration from both classic sports cars and modern architecture, and the “driver’s watch” time display is a play on the original LED-style display, designed to be easily viewed from an angle with a hand on the steering wheel. Amida has been relaunched by watch designer Matthieu Allègre (whose clients include Lyrique, Simon Brette, and others) and Clément Meynier, founder of Depancel. Their new venture is timed to mark the 50th anniversary of the original incarnation of Amida, and relies on a combination of heritage and nostalgia, as well as some clever modern watchmaking, to make the brand i...
Time+Tide
Omega expands the Speedmaster 38mm collection with a multitude of new models, choice of three materials, and two dial colours. There’s a choice of steel or Omega’s proprietary Sedna and Moonshine Gold alloys, and either brown or green sunburst dials, with the solid gold bracelets being a first for the collection. The pieces are powered … ContinuedThe post Omega launches a set of dazzling 38mm Speedmasters, with some collection-firsts (live pics and video) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Amida, a historical brand recently brought back to life, has introduced its first watch in more than 45 years, the Digitrend. Based on a historical design from 1976, the new Digitrend features an upright digital jump-hour display and a retro-futuristic design. While the formula for reviving dormant brands is nothing new, the team behind Amida, led by designer Matthieu Allègre and also includes Clément Meynier and Bruno Herbet, has managed to hit all the right aesthetic notes at a reasonable price. Initial thoughts I’ve always been attracted to retro-futuristic design, and watches like the original Digitrend have a distinct appeal. Unfortunately, the quality of the originals left much to be desired. In this context I appreciate what Mr Allègre and his team have accomplished. Specifically, they’ve managed to improve the design, including the small details like the typography, without diluting the original aesthetic. Additionally, the build quality has improved over the original. The brushed steel case of the new Digitrend is simple but done well. Most importantly, they’ve installed a much higher quality movement, which is comprised of a Soprod P092 base movement with an in-house designed jump-hour module that adds just nine additional parts. This minimalist approach is commendable and should aid reliability and serviceability. The hour and minute discs rotate in the same plane as typical hands, but are then ‘projected’ to the vertical time display with a sapphir...
Monochrome
An absolute must for any respectable watchmaker, the chronograph complication was once again well-represented at the 2024 edition of Watches and Wonders… To say the least, as we’ve seen some fascinating new models. What struck us most was the fact that many of these chronograph watches came with more than just a start-stop-reset function. Flyback, […]
Video
Behind the scenes with OMEGA Brand Ambassador Wei Daxun on set for the new Planet Ocean campaign.
Fratello
Five years ago, at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (aka SIHH, the predecessor to Watches and Wonders), Audemars Piguet shocked the watch world. When “AP” launched the all-new Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet collection, the reception was lukewarm at best, but most reactions were straight-up negative. In particular, the dial design got a proper […] Visit Showing The Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Some Love This Monday Morning to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s been a week since we flew back from Watches and Wonders 2024. These last seven days have served well in processing everything we saw during the show. As much as the consensus might be that this year was a bit slower than the last two, there were still plenty of new watches. Brands seem […] Visit Fratello Favorites: Nacho’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases to read the full article.
Fratello
I appreciate a manufacturer that listens and responds to customer feedback to evolve its products. It seems obvious to most that this should be the case. But you may be surprised how many companies mindlessly ignore criticism to focus on churning out the same stock. Thankfully, Artem continually seeks improvement to maintain its customer base […] Visit Artem Updates And Improves Its Classic Sailcloth Watch Strap With Pin Buckle to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Established in 2015, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is an annual affair to recognise the next generation of watchmakers. Applicants present a timepiece of their own design and construction, which is judged by on its complexity, craftsmanship, and aesthetics by a jury including Philippe Dufour, Giulio Papi, and Francois-Paul Journe. While last year’s winner was a Swiss-Italian clockmaker, this year’s winner is 23-year-old Frenchman Thomas Aubert, who entered his wristwatch Séléné, a unique piece crafted in his final year at the Edgar Faure High School in Morteau, France. Amongst the standout features of the Séléné is its key-winding and -setting as well as the clever “shooting star” display on the back. The Séléné pays tribute to classical watchmaking in both style and technique, but each reinterpreted with a modern twist. As is often the case with such school watches, the movement is based on the Unitas 6497, although it underwent extensive reworking. For example, the timepiece doesn’t feature a crown; instead winding and time-setting are done via a key that goes into dedicated slots on the case back. The front of the Séléné is classical and tastefully done, with a “grated” finish on the dial that is set on a frosted plate backdrop. The exposed balance bridge is mirror polished and chamfered. The screwed balance beats at 2.5 Hz and features a prominent Breguet overcoil hairspring. Mr Aubert is fascinated by astronomy, a passion that he...
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning! Yes, that means it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown inspired by the new releases we saw at Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s time for a full-on Rolex showdown after last week’s Tudor vs. Rolex battle. Last year, The Crown introduced the 18K yellow gold and Rolesor versions of the GMT-Master II […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR to read the full article.
Video
Closer than you’ve seen it before. The new Co-Axial Calibre 8915 with 18K Sedna™ Gold rotor and balance bridge
Worn & Wound
Bremont made their debut at Watches & Wonders last week, and they unexpectedly became the talk of the show. The new watches represent a dramatic departure from the design language Bremont has cultivated over the past 20 years, and serve as the introduction of Davide Cerrato at the helm of the company (he’s been CEO since spring of last year, but these new novelties are the first from the brand without the design input of founders Nick and Giles English). Relaunches are complicated, and we can’t recall a similar attempt at a rebrand that was so ambitious. To unveil a completely new strategy at a brand’s first Watches & Wonders under a CEO who has been in place for less than a year is a massive undertaking, and regardless of how you feel about Bremont’s new direction, there’s no denying that this was a big swing. Below you’ll find reactions to Bremont’s Watches & Wonders presence from Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan, both of whom had a chance to (briefly) go hands-on with the new novelties. We hope to have an opportunity to spend more time with these watches in the near future to bring you a more complete evaluation outside the fanfare and noise of the industry’s major trade show. Zach Kazan A somewhat slower year for big, flashy new releases at Watches & Wonders means that smaller stories about watches and brands that don’t normally generate a ton of heat will be talked about and picked apart in a way you wouldn’t necessarily see. Last year, when Rolex dropped...
Deployant
Fujifilm updated their flagship lineup, and replaced their GFX 100 with the GFX 100 II. Here are our thoughts on the new camera.
Quill & Pad
While the red carpet GPHG prize giving ceremony isn’t until the 13th of November 2024, GPHG Academy members have until the 26 of April to submit suggestions for watches for consideration. Ian Skellern is interested to hear your thoughts on which watches warrant contention and what you think about the new category changes.
Hodinkee
After a week of recording Hodinkee Radio at Lucid Studios, we turned the space into a good old-fashioned watch party.
Revolution
Join Wei and Matthieu Haverlan, Managing Director of Ulysse Nardin, as they go through their exciting new novelties for Watches & Wonders 2024: The Freak S Nomad
Video
Welcome to the hand-on review of a new diver watch from Venezianico - an Italian watch company. This model is called Nereide Chimera and it features a unique Tiger Eye stone dial, tungsten bezel insert, 200m of water...
Hodinkee
A well executed update to one of its oldest shapes, complete with a new monopusher chronograph.
SJX Watches
Omega just released a new take on its Speedmaster with a vintage-inspired dial for the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics that begins 100 days from now. Available in Moonshine Gold or stainless steel, the Speedmaster Chronoscope “Paris Olympics 2024” features a silver dial with black registers, along with solid gold numerals and gold-plated hands. Initial thoughts Omega is known for the many commemorative timepieces to mark the Olympics over the years, with the most recent one being Seamaster Diver 300m Paris Olympics Edition. A variety of Omega models have received the Olympics treatment, so the appeal really depends on the specific model, rather than the commemorative aspect. The new Chronoscope certainly looks good, with the gold accents on the dial giving it a more vintage feel, particularly on the steel model. That version brings to mind mid-20th century chronographs that combine gilt hands and markers with contrasting steel cases. With only the dial being unique to this edition, it remains chunky at 43 mm. Although large on paper, it is not all that large in reality, due to the short lugs of the Speedmaster case. I would imagine it to wear reasonably well on an averaged-sized wrist, given that the 42 mm Speedmaster Moonwatch wears well across most wrist sizes. The new Chronoscope ranges from US$9,500 to US$51,400, depending on the metal and strap configuration. Although the value proposition is decent for the steel model, the Moonshine gold version is harder to justif...
Fratello
Watches and Wonders is a somewhat overwhelming experience. You are bombarded with new watches left and right, making it hard to separate the good from the average. But when the dust settles, some watches linger in your mind. Some have that X factor that most lack. These are those watches for me. These are the […] Visit Fratello Favorites: Thomas’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
An introduction to the Citizen Super-Titanium Small Seconds watch with its familiar "Tsuyosa" design, new dial colors, and a titanium case.
Fratello
Mark Nagle is a passionate collector of vintage watches. His focus is vintage timepieces from World War One. We spoke to him about this particular fascination as part of our Fratelli Stories series. Read on. Like many of you, I am a fan of vintage watches. Sure, we cover a lot of new watch releases […] Visit Fratelli Stories: The WWI Watches Providing A Glimpse Into Our Past to read the full article.
Video
Numerous small changes lead to a whole new Alpinist, and we get 3 of them! Has Seiko finally perfected the recipe?
Worn & Wound
Something we find ourselves saying a lot: these pictures don’t do justice to this watch. These pictures, by Kat Shoulders, are excellent, of course, but because they only capture a single moment in time, they miss an important element of drama in the dial of Grand Seiko’s new SBGC275. The new Spring Drive chronograph GMT has, at a glance, a pretty brilliant red dial. But thanks to a new process, the color changes, and I mean really changes, when it’s seen at an angle. It’s actually uncanny, and not merely the common experience we’ve all had of seeing the range in tone on a colorful dial as it’s seen in different lighting conditions. It makes a watch that would otherwise feel like “just another variant” something a little more substantial in the Grand Seiko catalog. Grand Seiko achieves the effect of a color-changing dial with something they call “Optical Multilayer Coating,” which is described by the brand as a physical vapor deposition process. This process results in Multiple layers of a nanoscale film adhering to the dial which allow for the shifts in how we perceive the color. From head on, it looks dark red. But if you start to tilt the dial a bit the tone becomes lighter, and will appear as orange as a Doxa Professional if you turn it just right. The moment where it noticeably changes is an incredibly cool thing and even harder to describe than it is to show in still images. It’s not really a gradual shift, like you’d expect. One second the ...
Monochrome
In 2022, Audemars Piguet unveiled a plethora of new Royal Oak models to commemorate the 50th anniversary of this iconic line. Among these releases stood the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm reference 26240, adorned, like other anniversary automatic editions, with a special rotor sporting a prominent 50 logo. However, by 2023, these gave way to regular models […]
Time+Tide
Clad in titanium and carbon fibre, Ulysse Nardin's most recognisable watch takes on a new look for Watches and Wonders 2024.The post The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad is high-tech, sci-fi, and steampunk – all at the same time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Eleonor sit down with Benjamin Comar, CEO of Piaget, as we discover the 2024 New Altiplano Ultimate Concept, the thinnest mechanical watch ever created by the maison.
Hodinkee
A new Carrera that's equal parts heritage and modern.
Video
I queued for the AP x Swatch Royal Pop — the Ocho Negro — and honestly, I didn't know what to expect. A £335 Audemars Piguet pocket watch? It sounds ridiculous. But after spending time with it, I have to say… i...
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