Deployant
New and Reviewed: Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Le Régulateur
A new Louis Erard collaboration. Ths time with Cédric Johner with the release of a new Le Régulateur in two dial flavours.
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Deployant
A new Louis Erard collaboration. Ths time with Cédric Johner with the release of a new Le Régulateur in two dial flavours.
SJX Watches
MB&F; has released the third instalment of its automobile-inspired wristwatch, the HM8 Mark 2. Now in blue CarbonMacrolon, the latest HM8 Mark 2 follows on the green and white iterations introduced last year. Inspired by 1970s sports cars like the Lamborghini Miura, the new Mark 2 retains the model’s signature speedometer-like display for the time and “double bubble” sapphire crystal. Although the CarbonMacrolon panels of the case are also found on earlier versions, the material has been tweaked to incorporate ingredients also found in automotive paint, giving the case a metallic, sparkly blue finish resembling a car’s paintwork. Initial thoughts Though only a cosmetic update to the model, the latest HM8 Mark 2 is the most striking to date. Though the change of colour might seem like a trivial matter, the new paintwork is a perfect complement to the styling and concept of the watch – the metallic finish really does evoke the paintwork of a high-end automobile. Interestingly, the new Mark 2 feels sleeker than the earlier versions thanks to the paintwork, even though the watch is identical in dimensions and form. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard version, and the same movement is visible in the “engine bay” through the sloping sapphire crystal. The Girard-Perregaux calibre has been MB&F;’s base movement of choice almost since its founding two decades ago, so something more interesting would be a useful upgrade, particularly since the movement i...
Time+Tide
Since Max Büsser never realised his dream of becoming a car designer, the MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 looks like a car.The post MB&F; adds a striking metallic hue to the HM8 Mark 2 Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most coveted luxury travel watches on the planet, and its predecessor, the original, non-numerical GMT-Master, basically established the template that other dual-time zone timepieces have been following for more than half a century. Here is a detailed look at the history and evolution of the GMT-Master II, from its aviation-inspired beginnings in 1954 to the iconic status it enjoys in the modern era, with all the major models spotlighted in between. 1954: “PEPSI” FOR PILOTS Rolex, the luxury watch firm founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, achieved one of its many milestones in 1953 with the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner, the first serially produced wristwatch with a case water-resistant to 100 meters and hence one of the first and most influential watches purpose-built for diving. If the watch community was wondering what Rolex could possibly do for an encore, they didn’t have long to discover the answer. The following year, 1954, saw the introduction of another trend-setting, genre-defining timepiece, the original Rolex GMT-Master (Ref. 6542, which actually hit the market in 1955), the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal ...
Monochrome
MeisterSinger is a German watchmaking company from Münster. It was launched by Manfred Brassler in 2001, yet the brand’s timepieces exude a timeless style reminiscent of the long past 1960s. MeisterSinger is renowned for its single-hand watches and boasts a distinctive brand identity centred around conveying time in a tranquil and intuitive manner, with displays […]
Time+Tide
As official timekeepers of Tour Auto for the second year in a row, Baltic colour a Tricompax in racing livery.The post Baltic and Tour Auto introduce a new Tricompax to honour a legendary race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Kelly Haygarth, founder of Byrd Watch Co., is a tour de force. You will not find a more welcoming person who’s full of passion when it comes to bringing folks together in this hobby. I’ve been fortunate enough to hang out with Kelly and her husband, Peter, a few times and they’re both the life of the party. While this interview was full of laughs, Kelly definitely manages to exude a sense of community and takes time to get serious about what it means to be an entrepreneur in this space. Watches “My first real watch was this little 28mm Victorinox that Peter gifted me in 2013. I now realize this was his attempt at grooming me into the hobby,” Kelly told me. But, as she would later recall (and in spite of Peter’s grooming efforts), her love of watches began in earnest in 2019. “Peter grew up appreciating them [watches], and I never really understood. […] One day Peter called me and said he had found this Tag Heuer Carrera Twin Time, and I didn’t know what any of that meant. He found it in a pawn shop and it looked all grubby, and said it was $600. I was like WHAT?!?! How much?! On a watch?!” Kelly began laughing, “Wow. I think back to that innocence, and wow.” She went on to describe how Peter brought the watch home and disassembled it on their kitchen island and cleaned it to the point where it was beautiful. Kelly didn’t think much of it at first, but one day Peter asked if she wanted to wear it. “I didn’t take it off. It became my watch. ...
Time+Tide
These Cliftons combine one of watchmaking's most traditional complications in a contemporary yet timeless package with a great movement beating under the hood.The post Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic Moon Phases epitomise understated luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The name Vulcain is synonymous with alarm watches. In the 1960s and 1970s, the brand was mostly known for this specific complication. In recent years, Vulcain has made a comeback and expanded its collection to divers, chronographs, and now time-only models. The Grand Prix line is the simplest of them all. I spent a few […] Visit Hands-On With The Vulcain Grand Prix 39mm Champagne to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning! Yes, that means it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown inspired by the new releases we saw at Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s time for a full-on Rolex showdown after last week’s Tudor vs. Rolex battle. Last year, The Crown introduced the 18K yellow gold and Rolesor versions of the GMT-Master II […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The watch machine never stops churning, turning out new releases even after the conclusion of Watches and Wonders.The post New releases from Baltic, Omega, H. Moser & Cie and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
After a couple of goes at higher-end complications, Frederique Constant take a stab at something more simple.The post The Frederique Constant Moonphase Date Manufacture is packed with characterful, simple details appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier elevates its Riviera to the next level of style with an openworked dial for the first time.The post Baume & Mercier take the Riviera to the next level with the new Riviera Squelette appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A world-first complication is quite a rarity nowadays, especially a useful one like in the case of this Bovet.The post The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is the first watch ever to acknowledge daylight savings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Penned by the most renowned watch designer of all time, Gerald Charles goes for a diamond-studded look.The post Explore sparkling eccentricity with the Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Gem-Set appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Whether circular or square, Hublot always knows how to make a bang through their mastery of colours and materials.The post Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe takes us through the new Unico collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin recall the decadence of the Roaring Twenties with a convertible, gem-set wonder.The post The Vacheron Constantin Grand Lady Kalla is an iced-out modular marvel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I was genuinely excited when the second Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT was officially announced about a month ago. The first version of this watch blew me away last year. I had a chance to wear the C65 Dune GMT for a couple of weeks, and by the end of that time, I knew I […] Visit Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT In White Sand And Khaki Green to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Something we find ourselves saying a lot: these pictures don’t do justice to this watch. These pictures, by Kat Shoulders, are excellent, of course, but because they only capture a single moment in time, they miss an important element of drama in the dial of Grand Seiko’s new SBGC275. The new Spring Drive chronograph GMT has, at a glance, a pretty brilliant red dial. But thanks to a new process, the color changes, and I mean really changes, when it’s seen at an angle. It’s actually uncanny, and not merely the common experience we’ve all had of seeing the range in tone on a colorful dial as it’s seen in different lighting conditions. It makes a watch that would otherwise feel like “just another variant” something a little more substantial in the Grand Seiko catalog. Grand Seiko achieves the effect of a color-changing dial with something they call “Optical Multilayer Coating,” which is described by the brand as a physical vapor deposition process. This process results in Multiple layers of a nanoscale film adhering to the dial which allow for the shifts in how we perceive the color. From head on, it looks dark red. But if you start to tilt the dial a bit the tone becomes lighter, and will appear as orange as a Doxa Professional if you turn it just right. The moment where it noticeably changes is an incredibly cool thing and even harder to describe than it is to show in still images. It’s not really a gradual shift, like you’d expect. One second the ...
Time+Tide
Rounding out some of the hottest drops of W&W; 2024 in this special edition of Last Week in Watches.The post New releases from Rolex, Grand Seiko, Bulgari and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The jump hour has a long history, but first things first: it can’t technically be called a complication since the accepted definition of complication is a mechanism that provides information other than the time. However, anyone who gives a hoot will say in the same breath that there are many complications that don’t fit that definition and Joshua Munchow couldn’t agree more. But why does he love the jump hour so much?
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning! To be more exact, it’s the Sunday of Watches and Wonders. It’s the last day of this year’s fair before it’s in the history books. With the Fratello team back home and the Genevan dust clouds starting to settle, it’s time for our first Sunday Morning Showdown featuring one of the novelties […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer Vs. Rolex Submariner 124060 to read the full article.
Fratello
If you haven’t been watching, gold prices have been on a tear over the past year. Currently, the metal is trading at an all-time high. For lovers of vintage watches made from the precious metal, it’s time to wake up and take action. When bidding at auction on an old gold watch, there’s a good […] Visit Public Service Announcement: Save The Vintage Gold Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Tudor unveils the latest addition to its “BB58” range of smaller dive watches series, the Black Bay 58 GMT. Retaining the slim proportions and classic styling of the original model, the new BB58 seamlessly integrates a practical second time zone. The vintage-inspired design gains a burgundy and black “Coke” bezel with gilt accents that’s reminiscent of the classic GMT wristwatches – or more specifically a classic GMT – but with a thoroughly modern, high-spec movement. Initial thoughts Tudor fans have long wanted a more compact GMT, which is arguably the most practical of affordable complications. Before this launch, the dual time zone offerings in the brand’s catalogue were the chunky 41 mm Black Bay GMT and the smaller Black Bay Pro that is 39 mm but quite thick at over 14 mm high. In that context, the new Black Bay 58 GMT is an ideal size: 39 mm but substantially thinner than the Pro. While the proportions are new, the affordability is familiar. Priced at US$4,400 on a strap, and US$200 extra on a bracelet, the Black Bay 58 is likely the best value proposition for a dual time zone watch in this price segment. The only downside of the new GMT is perhaps the colour: red and black might not be for everyone. I for one hold out hope for a one in “Pan Am” colours. Vintage-inspired and travel-ready The BB58 GMT sticks to Tudor’s established formula for its dive watches. That includes “snowflake” hands, with the signature lozenge hand used for both the ...
Worn & Wound
When it comes to ones to watch, Norqain definitely makes the list. In the past year in particular, its momentum seems to be steadily growing. Right now, the brand is notching its first Watches & Wonders, and just ahead of the show, seasoned collector Mark Wahlberg was spotted rocking the Wild One Skeleton all around town-I’d say this gives Norqain some serious street cred. Last week, the brand also shared some pretty exciting news: three-time Grand Slam-winning tennis champion Stan Wawrinka is now an invested partner in the company, and he inspired two new versions of the popular Wild One Skeleton. In addition, Norqain has doubled down on the collection, unveiling a totally new platform where you can create your very own piece unique Wild One. You’ll recall when Norqain’s Wild One got the skeleton treatment last year. The new configuration offered the benefit of a reimagined dial revealing the COSC-certified Caliber N08S (Sellita SW200-1 S c) movement but still fell a bit short in terms of legibility. Still, the model delivered on performance thanks to the brand’s proprietary, ultra-lightweight, rigid, and durable carbon fiber derived NORTEQ material that makes up a large portion of the case body and can withstand shocks up to 5,000g. This feature was a major draw for Wawrinka, who put the turquoise variation to the test on the court at the U.S. Open last year and now brings us two new colorways fit for the upcoming Grand Slam season: a bright coral iteration f...
Fratello
My theoretical-wrist-grail taste has evolved, as has the watch-collecting community. In the face of unavailability and client-selective ADs, independent choices have come to the fore. And despite the shaky world markets, plenty of potential buyers are looking for alternatives outside the big-brand catalogs. Debuting back in 2010 with distinctively minimal luxury and the world’s best-looking […] Visit Introducing: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon - The Brand’s First Lunar Flirtation to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Today, Hublot has announced not one, but six new versions of the Big Bang Integrated Time Only, and here’s the kicker - this time they’re 38mm. When the first Hublot watch was launched by Carlo Crocco all the way back in 1980, it stood out. Totally different from anything else on the market, it supposedly took Crocco and his team at MDM Watches three years to develop the rubber strap for the first Hublot. The juxtaposition of a high-end gold case and an integrated rubber strap defined that first watch and “The Art of Fusion” would become the signature of a brand defined by experimentation. It was in that spirit that Hublot released the first Big Bang on a bracelet in 2020 (just a few weeks before the pandemic, as it turned out). I remember the prevailing sentiment at the time being slight surprise that a braceleted Big Bang didn’t already exist and a bemused “okay” before everyone got very distracted by the world shutting down. That first 42mm Big Bang Integral Chronograph was followed up by a 40mm Big Bang Integral Time Only two years later. Those first two Integral models featured skeletonized sapphire dials and sporty red and black highlights. Like many large Hublot releases, they each felt decidedly masculine. Today’s new Big Bang Integrated Time Only releases are much more sedate, swapping sapphire skeleton dials for solid ones finished in somewhat more traditional polished blacks or sunray blues. With their more neutral designs and smaller case siz...
Monochrome
A. Lange & Söhne’s most emblematic chronograph, the all-time glorious Datograph, needs little introduction. As it is referred to among collectors, the Dato is considered one of the most iconic chronographs on the market. Turning 25 this year, ALS is celebrating the Datograph’s anniversary with a new 125-piece edition in white gold with a blue […]
Time+Tide
Highlights include a skeletonised Riviera, a pair of handsome Clifton moonphases and a trio of Classima chronographs.The post Baume & Mercier goes for a traditional and modern mix for Watches and Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Cartier’s longstanding affair with the intrepid Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont shows no sign of abating. Santos-Dumont’s request to Louis Cartier to create a timepiece that would let him consult the time without taking his hands off the controls resulted in the men’s first wristwatch in 1904. Characterised by sleek geometric lines, Cartier’s Santos-Dumont model has […]
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