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Time+Tide
Seiko pays tribute to the brand's first-ever dual-time watch, going all the way back to 1968 for inspiration.The post The Seiko Prospex SPB411 stays true to its vintage inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
At 8.8 grams for the manual movement and 10.8 grams for the automatic, it claims to have broken any previous known record – and looks phenomenal too.
SJX Watches
Having already one of the smartest perpetual calendars on the market, H. Moser & Cie. adds another calendar to its repertoire with the Endeavour Chinese Calendar. Sporting a double retrograde display, the new watch displays the traditional Chinese calendar, a lunisolar calendar that operates on the motions of the Sun and Moon, along with the Chinese zodiac. Unlike past watches with a Chinese calendar, the new Endeavour has a clean, modern aesthetic. Initial thoughts The Endeavour Chinese Calendar isn’t the first wristwatch to incorporate a traditional Chinese calendar, though it has the most concise display and is probably the easiest to understand. Past watches with Chinese calendars from the likes of Blancpain were traditional displays of the traditional Chinese calendar with as many Chinese characters as possible, resulting in busy dials. Moser, on the other hand, opted for minimalism with retrograde scales and Arabic numerals for the calendars. The only downside of the calendar display is its size; the tiny numerals mean a magnifier is probably necessary. In short, the Endeavour Chinese Calendar is a smart take on the traditional Chinese calendar, but one that could do with larger numerals. A lunisolar calendar Now mostly used for ceremonial purposes like public holidays and determine auspicious dates, the traditional Chinese calendar is a lunisolar calendar that depends on the Moon and Sun. A month for instance is the time between two new moons, with either 29 or 3...
Time+Tide
As one of our favourite collaborations to date, we look back at the stories of the Night Surfer.The post Celebrating the second anniversary of our Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Night Surfer Time+Tide Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Lightness Wars continue today with the release of the new Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey, a ceramic dive watch with a GMT complication that isn’t just another ceramic sports watch. The new reference is filled with technological advancements on the materials and watchmaking fronts that Omega claims give it an improved strength to weight ratio compared to prior watches made from similar materials. Omega’s first big innovation here is the use of silicon nitride ceramic for the case, a lighter ceramic compound that is also very robust. Omega claims it is two times lighter than the Zircon ceramic used throughout the rest of their catalog, and according to their spec sheet the watch weighs in at 107 grams. The color of the case is a cool grey, and seems clearly intended to evoke the tactical lightweight feel of titanium. The other (and perhaps more significant) feature of the new Seamaster is that the dial and movement are both made from titanium, which goes a long way to reducing the total weight of the watch. The movement inside is the Master Chronometer Calibre 8906, which of course has been given the full METAS treatment. All that titanium on the inside and fancy ceramic on the outside will hopefully lead to featherweight wearing experience, because this watch is big by any standard. The case measures 45.5mm in diameter and 17.4mm tall. The lug to lug measurement is 51.5mm, which seems almost reasonable given the hefty diameter. It’s a Planet Ocean, so water re...
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Worn & Wound
A Lange & Söhne opened the doors of their latest boutique in New York City’s upper east side this week with the help of CEO Wilhelm Schmid, and a new Zeitwerk Minute Repeater rendered in Honeygold was presented to mark the occasion. That might be the poshest sentence ever to be written on this website, but don’t let that turn you away just yet, there’s an impeccably interesting watch underneath the glitz here. The Zeitwerk takes a unique approach to displaying the time, and it’s no different when a chiming complication is added to the mix. There is no hour and minute hand here, and there’s also no slide mechanism along the side of the case. It is an entirely over the top example of the kind of creative engineering the brand is capable of set into a material that is nearly as difficult to explain. The new boutique finds itself in New York’s lovely upper east side, on Madison ave at 63rd street, directly across from the Hermès boutique. The cozy space is accented with plenty of Lange ephemera, including a monolithic installment of a Saxonia Triple Split chronograph, which includes an oversized hyper accurate recreation of the movement around back. What I personally found the most compelling, however, was the display on the south wall, which was composed of small numbered boxes, each depicting a single piece of the 684 total pieces that comprise the Tourbograph Perpetual Pour Le Merite movement. It takes up an entire wall, and imagining them all placed within ...
Hodinkee
Inside the world of Porsche, the brand's family ties to watchmaking, and the community that brings it all together.
Hodinkee
The new striking limited edition gives you an Genta-inspired design at a great price.
The post Introducing the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan Limited Editions appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey debuts a new silicon nitride ceramic [Si3N4] case and a titanium variant of their in-house 8906 movement.The post The new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey removes weight, but does it add value? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hodinkee
Inside the new collaboration between Akrivia and Louis Vuitton (and what comes next...).
SJX Watches
Well before A. Lange & Söhne debuted the entirely classical Richard Lange Minute Repeater a year ago, the brand’s flagship striking watch was a Zeitwerk. Available in white gold or platinum before, the digital chiming watch now returns in a warmer metal as the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater Honeygold. While remaining the same mechanically, the new repeater strikes a different tone according to the brand because of the case metal, a gold alloy slightly harder than conventional gold that is exclusive to Lange. Initial thoughts The new Zeitwerk repeater is more appealing than its predecessors in my eyes just because I like the gold-and-grey combination. The platinum model was monochromatic while the blue dial on the white gold model felt too modern for the watch. The movement remains exactly the same as before, which means it’s the same impressively complicated calibre that has the usual Zeitwerk features like a constant force mechanism, as well as the added complexity of an unusually constructed minute repeater with various safety mechanisms catered to the digital display. But one aspect of the new repeater is interesting, and that’s the case metal. I’ve yet to hear the watch in person, but Lange’s product development head, Anthony de Haas, is quoted as saying the new repeater “in honey gold… sounds different to all other materials ‒ truly distinctive.” Given the significant increase in hardness of honey gold relative to ordinary 18k gold, that sounds credible. ...
Worn & Wound
It’s tricky business finding alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms; seldom do we see high-low collaborations of this kind in the industry. Indeed the bioceramic dive watch looms large in the minds of both collectors and the mainstream public, and for good reason. While the lightweight colorful dive watch is great fun, however, those who are looking beyond the hype for more substantial dive watches around a similar price point should consider these options here in the Windup Watch Shop. It’s tricky business finding alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms; seldom do we see high-low collaborations of this kind in the industry. Indeed the bioceramic dive watch looms large in the minds of both collectors and the mainstream public, and for good reason. While the lightweight colorful dive watch is great fun, however, those who are looking beyond the hype for more substantial dive watches around a similar price point should consider these options here in the Windup Watch Shop. The post Windup Watch Shop Alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Complete with quintessential Basquiat motifs and references, Raymond Weil finds its latest inspiration for its signature Freelancer Chronograph in one of the most enigmatic artists of the 20th century.
SJX Watches
The Carrera line takes a luxurious turn with a new chronograph sporting a yellow gold case and matching yellow gold-plated dial, complemented by contrasting matte black sub-dials. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” pays homage to a similar creation from the 1960s, the Carrera ref. 1158 CHN, which is known among collectors for its bold, all-gold design. Initial thoughts A precious metal sports watch often sparks debate about the relevance of the case material, particularly for brands not typically associated with pure luxury. However, TAG Heuer’s decision to execute its new Glassbox in the memorable “John Player Special” colour scheme of gold and black inspired by the ref. 1158 CHN is commendable. Moreover, it is a logical next step for TAG Heuer following the recent unveiling of the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, which is also available in rose gold. This fusion of heritage and refinement brings a unique and distinguished touch to the ordinarily functional Carrera. The result is an appealing chronograph with a hint of vintage luxury that effectively showcases the distinctive Glassbox case. The price tag for the gold Carrera is comparable to that of the rose gold Chronosprint x Porsche, which means the price is expected and appropriate though not quite a bargain. However, the Chronosprint boasts a more complex movement, making it a better value proposition – though the new Carrera is certainly more appealing in terms of design. The legendary gold Carrera 11...
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Hodinkee
Ten years after the groundbreaking original, the Constant Escapement is back – smaller, and more refined than ever.
Time+Tide
Forget teaming up with Swatch: Zach speculates what would happen if Breguet took a leaf out of Omega's book.The post WHAT IF… Breguet were also able to use the co-axial escapement? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
One of my favorite episodes of Seinfeld is “The Chicken Roaster,” the eighth episode of season 8. You probably remember this one: it involves a Kenny Rogers Roasters restaurant opening across the street from Kramer’s apartment, and eventually he switches apartments with Jerry to get some sleep (because obviously the big neon sign is keeping him up all night) which leads to some of the funniest moments in the history of the show (Jerry’s recollection of a late night phone call with Bob Sacamano will always stay with me). But the B-plot is great, too. It follows George and his saga with a Russian hat, intentionally left behind in the apartment of the woman who sold it to him, who of course he tries to date. This is a trick, he explains, to keep her interested. Like a jingle you can’t get out of your head. And that’s kind of how I feel about Bell & Ross. They have worked their way into my brain like a catchy pop song. They’re a mainstream brand that is capable of doing some truly weird stuff, and as someone who spends a lot of time observing and thinking about industry trends, I just find that fascinating. Their latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack, is squarely in the weird category, and a rare collaboration with an outside designer, Sacha Lakic. Lakic is known primarily for being the founder of Blacktrack, a Luxembourg based maker of custom cafe racers and other motorcycles. The new BR 03-94 takes specific inspiration from his BT-06 motorcycle, which can be seen p...
Hodinkee
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
Worn & Wound
Don’t look now, but it appears that one of the great names of early 2000s independent watchmaking is back with their feet under them, fully invested in making interesting and beautiful watches. Speake Marin, founded by Peter Speake-Marin in 2002, was one of those gateway brands for many collectors coming of age at around the time the brand got its start, thanks in no small part to the founder being one of the most well liked and enthusiastic spokespeople not only for their own brand, but for indie watchmaking in general, of that era. Speake Marin (the brand) has had some ups and downs since the departure of its founder in 2017, but recent efforts like the Dual Time (in a host of festive colors) and the Ripples (their oddly named but quite striking entry in the integrated bracelet sports watch genre) have garnered more attention than the brand has seen in quite some time. Their most recent release, the Openworked Sandblasted Ti. The One & Two Openworked line has become a signature in the larger Speake Marin catalog, consisting of, well, evocatively openworked dials that show off some seriously high level manufacturing. They also do a great job of calling attention to the intricately finished movements and the unusual geometry and layout of Speake Marin watches, which is the underlying factor in what makes this watch so striking. The running seconds between 1:00 and 2:00 is, of course, deeply unusual, as is the visible barrel from the dial side with an engraving of the bra...
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Quill & Pad
2023 marks the thirtieth anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore collection. Here Alexey Kutkovoy look at the ROO Diver watches, perhaps the most impressive and important non-chronograph design in the Offshore collection.
SJX Watches
British watch brand Fears has revealed new dial colours for one of its primary offerings, the Brunswick 40. The new variants are the Aurora with a mother-of-pearl dial, and the Copper Salmon with its eponymous metallic finish. But the two are not just cosmetic updates as the model has also undergone some improvements, including a larger 40 mm case and a novel typeface employed for the numerals. Initial thoughts Since the re-establishment of the Fears brand six years ago, I have always held an appreciation for the vintage-inspired design of the Brunswick in particular, with its cushion-shaped case and the subtle dial detailing. The highlight among the new additions would be the Aurora, which stands out from the rest of the Fears catalogue. Its mother-of-pearl dial that is comprised of two parts and finished by hand, giving each dial a unique look. The Aurora Having said that, the large case size of 40 mm does leave the new Brunswick somewhat substantial especially given its shape, bringing to mind to the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta. And with a case height of about 11 mm – not thick but not thin either – the case will sit fairly tall on the wrist. The pricing of the new Brunswick depends on the dial: the Copper Salmon is priced at £3,550 with a strap, while the Aurora is available for £3,850, with either being approximately £200 more with the bracelet. These prices are consistent with the existing models in the current collection. Considering the intrinsic features of ...
SJX Watches
The Chronomètre Optimum is arguably François-Paul Journe’s most complex no-complication creation. Being a time-only watch, the Chronomètre Optimum displays the same amount of information as the entry-level Chronomètre Souveraine, albeit for more than twice the price, with the Chronomètre Optimum retailing for US$129,500 in platinum and a bit less in gold. On a pleasantly asymmetric dial, the Chronomètre Optimum presents the wearer with the time, down to the second, and a power reserve indicator. Plain as the dial might seem, the Chronomètre Optimum’s appeal lies in its inner, and largely hidden, complexity. In fact, the cal. 1510 within ranks among the most sophisticated time-only movements on the market today. Chronometry Historically the tourbillon was never a complication, though it is often regarded as such today – though some prominent collectors disagree. In this context, it is difficult to label the features of the Chronomètre Optimum true complications. But since the timepiece was designed with chronometry in mind, its features of engineered accuracy might just qualify as a complication. Chronometry in mechanical watchmaking is regarded as a marriage between accuracy and precision, as there is a nuance between the two. Accuracy is the quality of a watch or clock to have a timekeeping deviation as close to zero as possible, whereas precision relates more to the consistency and stability of the timepiece’s rate, rather than to a temporary lack of devi...
Time+Tide
This retro-inspired dive watch isn't just a pretty face: it's a proper tool watch.The post The Héron Marinor is a classy Canadian dive watch with a tough secret appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
From case pushers to bracelet clasp, the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski is a bit of a light(weight) show.The post The many facets of the Hublot Chronograph Orlinski Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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