Hodinkee
Introducing: The Urwerk UR-150 'Scorpion,' With An Entirely New, Bold Satellite Display
Most of the time, it's a slow-moving watch but once an hour, it's got a lightning-fast sting.
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Hodinkee
Most of the time, it's a slow-moving watch but once an hour, it's got a lightning-fast sting.
Worn & Wound
One of the most interesting new watches (and new brands) to surface at Geneva Watch Days this year was the Albishorn Maxigraph, made in collaboration with Massena LAB. Now, just a few months after their debut, Albishorn is back with their second effort, the Type 10. This might seem like a rapid pace for a brand to be moving at, but once you understand Albishorn’s backstory, it begins to make a little more sense. The brand is the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet, a watch industry veteran who is currently Director of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita. There are probably few individuals in the watch space better positioned to make a quick start than Sébastien, and after chatting with him briefly about his brand and his plans for it at Geneva Watch Days, it’s no surprise to see the Type 10 surface now, and it will be even less of a surprise to know that Sébastien has a an even longer term release roadmap planned out well in advance. The conceit of Albishorn, you’ll likely remember, is that of a brand that creates “vintage watches that never existed.” These are not vintage reissues, or even inspired, necessarily, by actual vintage watches. Rather, the watches that will make up the Albishorn collection will exist as thought experiments, imagining parallel histories in which a watch like the Type 10 or the Maxigraph could have been designed, but weren’t. It’s a subtle but important twist on the notion of a vintage inspired watch, and one that, I think, shoul...
Fratello
The Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal is as rare as a hen’s teeth, with only three examples known before this one. Watch purists may not accept this one because I managed to put it together from old parts. Still, everything is genuine and correct for the period. First, I encourage you to read Mike’s eight-year-old story […] Visit #TBT The Unobtanium Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal Chronograph to read the full article.
Deployant
Casio first released the Casioak in 2019 it sent watch collectors into a frenzy! Now, Casio just released the Casio G-Shock G-Steel-GM-2110D Metal Series
SJX Watches
Less than two months have elapsed since Albishorn made its debut, but the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet is back with the Type 10, an “imaginary vintage” prequel to the Type 20 pilot’s watch made famous by Breguet. Available with black or green textured dials, the Type 10 features a proprietary manually wound monopusher chronograph movement with an unusual layout that differentiates it from other Type 20-inspired watches. Though not a limited edition, the Type 10 will be produced in small batches of just 25 watches in each livery. Initial thoughts Conceptually, I like the idea of “imaginary vintage” – the brand’s tagline – because it liberates the design from the constraints of the past and avoids coming off as a copy or homage. While I don’t like every detail of the Type 10, there’s a lot to be excited about, especially as a preview of what might be coming next from the fledgling brand. The Type 10 is powered by the proprietary ALB02 M, a manually wound chronograph movement that, like the Maxigraph, shares some of the architecture of the ubiquitous Valjoux 7750. But to call this a cal. 7750 would be to miss the numerous refinements implemented by Dr Chaulmontet that result in a slimmer movement with, reportedly, a more pleasant pusher action. The Type 10 retains many of the best features of the Maxigraph, including its case. Interestingly, the case is not quite identical; the Type 10’s case is slightly thinner on account of its manually wound ...
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Monochrome
Introduced in 2001, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak watch turned many watchmaking conventions upside down. With no hands, no dial and no crown, the Freak was powered by an in-line movement pivoting on itself every 60 minutes to indicate the time. It was regulated by a dual direct escapement and introduced the watchmaking world to silicium (aka […]
Fratello
Bow down. The Freak deserves your respect. In fact, the Freak is the mack daddy of everything we call Nouvelle Horlogerie. In 2001, a bizarre and unexpected watch appeared from the Ulysse Nardin atelier in Le Locle, and it shook the world of watchmaking on its very foundations. This world was not yet ready for […] Visit Take It Easy, Everyone - It’s Only The New Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue to read the full article.
Monochrome
Sometimes, you don’t necessarily need to reinvent the wheel to make something appealing. Sometimes, a simple twist can result in an appealing new version of a known watch. Sometimes, keeping things classic is the best. Well, this is exactly what Nomos, the Glashutte-based watchmaker with a Bauhaus twist, has decided to do by introducing two […]
SJX Watches
Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...
Fratello
To start this article, let me ask a quick question: can an abundance of something good lead to overkill? Let me be a bit more specific. I love the Hamilton Khaki Field collection. It’s one of the watch world’s most loved and respected series. I adore multiple models, like the white-dial Khaki Field Murph, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Hamilton × Engineered Garments Khaki Field Titanium Limited Edition to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
If you’ve been paying any attention to H. Moser & Cie. over the last few years, one thing should be abundantly clear - the Swiss watchmaker likes to keep things simple. While they may occasionally indulge themselves with an overwhelming quantity of dial text, or acquiesce to the need for a chronograph scale, Moser has increasingly adopted a minimalist approach in their watch design, with wide open expanses of dial and invisible logos taking center stage alongside hammered enamel finishes, minute repeater strikers, and elegantly finished hands. Today, Moser is throwing all that out, and, in partnership with Massena LAB, the brand is looking back to its history for what is, in many ways, its most traditional release in years. The Endeavour Chronograph Compax would, from anyone else, barely qualify as newsworthy. After all, what brand hasn’t dipped back into the well to create a historically-minded steel sports watch in recent years? Moser hasn’t, and that’s what makes this collaboration so interesting. Even the Heritage model, the closest the brand has come to the format, isn’t so much a recreation as a reimagination, a consideration not of how to make an old watch feel new, but a thought exercise in what H. Moser & Cie. might have made were the modern brand to find themselves in a different era. This new watch is not that. Though not a direct reproduction of any particular model, the new Endeavour Chronograph Compax is a genuine reflection on Moser’s history...
Worn & Wound
Anyone else have a watch that you look forward to seeing on the wrist of someone else? I think if you’ve been part of this community long enough, it’s almost a certainty. Invariably a friend or colleague will own something that you genuinely look forward to seeing – that watch you hope they will decide to bring to the regular meetup that always impresses. A watch that easily slides into that somewhat niche category for me is the Fears Garrick, a limited edition collaborative effort between the two British brands that first appeared in 2022. Asher Rapkin, a co-founder of Collective, is one of the lucky owners of this watch, and whenever I run into him, be it in Switzerland for a trade show or one of our Windup Watch Fairs, I always hope he’ll have picked this watch out of the box today. It’s just such a cool concept, and a watch that’s genuinely pretty rare, so an opportunity to see it in person is kind of a special thing. Well, the number of these watches out in the wild is about to increase just a little bit with today’s announcement of the Fears Garrick Salmon for Collective limited edition. Only five of these will be made, and as the name of the watch would suggest, this run is distinguished by a beautiful salmon dial, replacing the crisp white of the prior version. Other than that, it’s very much the same watch, which is a great thing in my opinion, as it fuses together the absolute best of two of the most interesting British watch brands. Those att...
Fratello
Two years ago, British watchmakers Fears and Garrick joined forces. Together, they presented the aptly named Fears Garrick. Fears ensured the watch looked charming and elegant, like a true gentleman. Garrick was there to impress us with the exposed balance wheel and the overall finishing of the watch. Now the two parties are back with […] Visit Introducing: The Limited-Edition Fears Garrick Salmon For Collective Horology to read the full article.
Deployant
Ready for Watch Time New York, Czapek released a new version of their Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph which they christened as "Crossroads".
Monochrome
Krayon, a watch design and engineering studio led by Remi Maillat and based in Neuchatel, caught the world’s attention in 2017 with the release of Everywhere, the first super-complicated wristwatch capable of calculating and displaying sunrise and sunset times anywhere on the globe. In 2020, the company followed up with the Anywhere – a seemingly […]
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WatchAdvice
From the Arctic to the Everyday: The New Terra Nova Evolution What We Love: The new look for the Terra Nova is suited for everyday wear. The blue gradient dial is stunning in person. Polished finishing on the case and bezel gives the watch a luxury look. What We Don’t: The constant seconds counter is oversized for dial. Movement and power reserve can be better to suit modern standards. Minute track can be slimmed down so dial appears less busy. Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.0/10 Build Quality: 8.0/10 During Watches and Wonders earlier this year, Bremont released numerous timepieces for its Terra Nova collection, with various colour schemes and strap options. This Terra Nova collection can be seen as the brand’s redirection, as in early 2023, the company announced a change of leadership with Davide Cerrato taking over the reins. But let’s take a step back and look at what Bremont was as a watch brand before this new, modern direction took over. As a watchmaker, Bremont has a relatively short history compared to some of the other luxury watch manufacturers; however, in this short span of time, they have already created some memorable timepieces. The story in which the brand was found is also quite the tale! Bremont Founders Nick and Giles English. Image Reference: Bremont.com Bremont was founded in 2002 by British brothers Nick and Giles English. The brothers were drawn to watchmaking and to ultimately created a watch brand t...
Monochrome
Inspiration at MB&F; comes from all sorts of places, including hypothetical musings like Max Büsser’s question: “What would have happened if I was born in 1867, one hundred years before my actual birth? What watch would I have conceived with the help of my friends?” The answer, as we know, was the motor behind the […]
Hodinkee
Some greats of vintage watch collecting picked the best dealers for their Italian watch fair.
Fratello
Even if I do favor the cool expressions of indie brands, the majority of my watches are traditional. But my €2K Otsuka Lotec got the strongest reaction I’ve ever seen at Geneva Watch Days this year. As usual, I was trying to wear an inoffensive but interesting watch. I didn’t want it to clash with […] Visit Multiple Displays: Are They The Coolest Thing Since Tourbillons? - Examples From MB&F;, Vianney Halter, Cartier, And More to read the full article.
Fratello
Raymond Weil struck gold with the Millesime, a vintage-inspired watch that won a GPHG award. Belgian comics artist Philippe Francq (1961) also received praise and awards with his Largo Winch series of comic books. The titular character, a Yugoslavian adventurer whose birth name was Largo Winczlav, first appeared in 1990. Since then, 24 graphic novels […] Visit Wearing The Ninth Art On The Wrist: The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch to read the full article.
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Monochrome
While widely known for its countless apparitions on the silver screen and its military-inspired watches, Hamilton, once an American brand now under the umbrella of the Swatch Group, also carries a rather serious range of aquatic-oriented watches. Sitting alongside the high-performance Frogman and BeLOWZERO collections is the Khaki Navy Scuba, a classic dive watch with […]
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, your hosts discuss the vintage watches currently tickling their collective fancies. Before that, though, there’s plenty of banter about sneakers and watches. For your convenience, watch content starts after 20 minutes. Vintage watches are some of our favorites. We’re always looking and thinking about […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Vintage Watches On Our List to read the full article.
Monochrome
Following our article about the new Josef Regulator With Dead-Beat Seconds, it’s time now to introduce the second watch released by Habring² in the frame of the brand’s 20th-anniversary celebrations. Founded in 2004 by couple Maria and Richard Habring, Habring² is one of the very few watchmakers to operate in Austria and, over the years, […]
Worn & Wound
Founded in 1948, Yema is an independent French watch manufacturer in Morteau, France, which as Yema reminds us, is “the birthplace of French watchmaking.” The third-generation Bôle family operates it alongside a team of watchmakers with over 40 years of experience. Over the years, they have gained a reputation for producing robust and dependable tool watches suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Yema has sought a new, more enthusiast focused clientele in recent years, particularly with their popular dive watches and the new Wristmaster line of integrated bracelet sports watches. To enhance this revival, they partnered with Alain Silberstein to create a special limited edition piece. Silberstein is an artistic watch designer with a background in interior architecture who grew to prominence with his eponymous brand in the 80s and 90s. His original designs were genre-defying and have now become his signature look. His style can be polarizing, frequently incorporating bright primary colors and geometric shapes in unexpected ways. The word “playful” gets thrown around a lot in the watch world, but it truly defines the Silberstein design language – they just have a way of making you smile. And that’s exactly what this new collaboration with Yema is designed to do. It is a 40mm dual crown dive watch in Black DLC Grade 5 Titanium with micro-blasted finish. The Yema x Alain Silberstein Marine features a crown at 4 o’clock for time setting and win...
Time+Tide
Jamie's not a big fan of "pre-distressed" watches, but found Doxa's second Clive Cussler watch surprisingly compelling.The post Rediscovering my spirit of adventure with the Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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