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Results for Equation of Time

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Tissot Introduces the Sideral SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Jun 15, 2023

Tissot Introduces the Sideral

Fun, affordable, and well-equipped, the Sideral is a surprisingly interesting entry-level sports watch from Tissot. Where many recent sports watches been Genta-inspired with integrated bracelets – Tissot’s own PRX among them – the Sideral reminds us that the 70s were a time of broader experimentation for the Swiss watch industry, in terms of both design and materials. Based on the playful and quirky Sideral S from 1971, the newSideral is not a one-to-one remake of the original. Instead, it’s been smartly updated in both design and functionality. While the original Sideral S featured a fiberglass case, then a world first, the reissue has a more contemporary carbon composite case. With its clever use of lume plus a regatta countdown bezel, the Sideral packs a surprising amount of character for the price. The original Sideral S from 1971 (lower left) next to the new Sideral. Initial thoughts Heritage remakes have become a common trope in the luxury watch industry over the past few years, but brands have mostly focused on bringing back their most timeless and iconic designs from the 1950s and 1960s; the Tudor Black Bay 54 is a perfect example. In this context, the launch of the funky Sideral is a breath of fresh air, since the original design is comparatively obscure and likely unknown to many contemporary enthusiasts.  The dial itself is generously and playfully lumed, with four different colours of Super-LumiNova across the collection to bring it to life in the dark...

24 Perpetual Calendar Watches from The World's Leading Luxury Watchmak Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 14, 2023

24 Perpetual Calendar Watches from The World's Leading Luxury Watchmak

The most sophisticated type of calendar watch, a perpetual calendar is endowed with a mechanical “memory” that enables it to record and display the time, day, date, month, and often the moon-phase, accurately for many years. The complex movement in a perpetual calendar compensates for the length of every month, including February in both leap years and non-leap-years, meaning that it should not need adjusting until the year 2100, which is the next annum in which the Gregorian calendar’s leap-year cycle is disrupted (it will be the first year since 1900 that is exactly divisible by 100 but not by 400, and thus not a leap year). As you'd expect, perpetual calendar watches (called "quantième perpétuel" in French) are extremely complicated in their mechanics and design, representing one of the highest pinnacles of high horology and priced accordingly. Throughout the modern wristwatch industry, only a relative handful of brands have mastered the art of the perpetual calendar: we showcase some of them, and their most impressive perpetual calendar timepieces, here.  A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Introduced in 2021, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar adopts the new approach taken to perpetual calendar design that the Saxon maison established in 2012 with the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. In typical Lange fashion, the technical approach taken is complex in the service of user-friendly practicality. Its in-house, self-winding movement, Caliber L021.3, ...

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Richard Mille Jun 14, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary”

Breitling is introducing a luxe variation of its flagship chronograph to mark the tenth year of S&S; Group, a luxury retailer that represents brands ranging from Rolls Royce to Richard Mille in Vietnam. The Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary” Limited Edition is making its debut just in time for the opening of the Breitling boutique in the Vietnamese capital, Hanoi. Initial thoughts Highlighting its focus on Southeast Asia, it comes as no surprise that Breitling has unveiled another edition of its trademark chronograph, following the Singapore Airlines edition from last year. But instead of a mere change of colour as it usually does, Breitling has employed mother-of-pearl for the dial, an unusual material for the brand but one that adds a touch of extravagance to an otherwise functional pilot’s watch.  The mother-of-pearl dial instantly sets this apart from the standard Navitimer, particularly with the red gold case. Perhaps the only thing missing is the retailer’s logo on the dial, a detail that would hark back to the double-signed dials that are desirable in vintage watches.  Priced at US$21,800, the S&S; Navitimer is slightly more expensive than the standard production model in rose gold that has a plain, cream dial. This increase can primarily be attributed to the mother-of-pearl dial and seems fairly proportional for the upgrade in dial material. Tenth anniversary This Navitimer edition celebrates the tenth year of S&S; Group, which was founded in 2013 as the s...

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts Jun 13, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9

Grand Seiko is well-known for a wide array of dial expressions, faceted case geometries, handsome Zaratsu finishing, and, of course, their proprietary Spring Drive system. But as one of few truly vertically integrated manufactures, Grand Seiko does have one glaring gap in their catalogue: complications. Yes, Grand Seiko has previously presented GMT watches and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Oris Goes Big with their New Aquis Worn & Wound
Oris Goes Big Jun 13, 2023

Oris Goes Big with their New Aquis

Oris is once again expanding their Aquis collection, this time debuting a reference with a small seconds indicator in a case with a larger footprint, the Aquis Small Second Date 45.5mm. The Aquis is one of the Swiss brand’s signature creations, and as such Oris has endeavored to make it available, and palatable, to a huge range of potential customers, with cases ranging from 36.5mm all the way up to 45.8mm for the Aquis Depth Gauge. Over the last few release cycles, we’ve seen Oris put a focus on the smaller and medium sized watches, but here we get a big one, with a case measuring 45.5mm, a brand new size for the diver, and featuring the increasingly rare small seconds indicator at 9:00.  When we think about dive watches, normally we consider them along the metric of water resistance and legibility, but there’s another core component of any diver that is less discussed and often taken for granted, and that’s being able to immediately determine if the watch is running. Needless to say, a dive watch that has stopped running doesn’t do you very much good at all, and could potentially be quite dangerous for a diver relying on their watch to time surface intervals or bottom time. If you picture a dive watch in your mind’s eye, you’re likely to think of one with a centrally mounted seconds hand, which makes it easy to see at a glance whether or not a watch is functioning at its most basic level. But for timing purposes, getting a readout to the second isn’t of ...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 Sports retro colour collection Time+Tide
Seiko 5 Sports retro colour Jun 13, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 Sports retro colour collection

With its incredibly expansive catalogue of references and huge production numbers, the original Seiko 5 collection still feels like a pillar of the watchmaking landscape. Despite a complete refresh of the series, discontinuing all existing models in 2019 and starting from scratch, the remaining stock usually still offers fantastic value and cool designs. For that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 Sports retro colour collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario 1945 D12 Field Watch delivers vintage vibes for a bargain price Time+Tide
Jun 12, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario 1945 D12 Field Watch delivers vintage vibes for a bargain price

Vario are one of the most beloved microbrands, and despite the fact that they may not receive as much hype as others, they still hold onto an incredibly loyal fanbase. With an unbelievable ability to deliver quality for budget prices, Vario’s efforts retain a unique signature style while evoking vintage watches effortlessly. As a manufacturer … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario 1945 D12 Field Watch delivers vintage vibes for a bargain price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Announces Fresh Divers for the Summer, Including a New Fujitsubo and Smaller Promaster Dive Watches Worn & Wound
Citizen Announces Fresh Divers Jun 9, 2023

Citizen Announces Fresh Divers for the Summer, Including a New Fujitsubo and Smaller Promaster Dive Watches

If ever there was a time in the market for a reinvigoration of classics, it’s now. And one could argue, with the releases coming out of Citizen in June, that the Japanese brand is leading the way. From reworking one of their most iconic lines to adding a fuller scope to their existing collections, Citizen has made it a mission this Summer to provide a variety of exciting, elegant, and even eco-conscious alternatives to other watches in their existing line-up. For June, Citizen will be releasing three watch collections: the much-anticipated 37mm Promaster Dive, the Promaster Dive Automatic Super Titanium “Fujitsubo”, and the UNITE with BLUE Collection. Each one remains a variation on an existing theme within the Citizen universe, but with surprising, and sometimes intriguing, differences. 37mm Promaster Dive Dive watches entering everyday wear has been on the rise over the last decade and it seems that the new Promaster Dive is where Citizen has gotten their sea legs. By reducing the 44mm size to a more wearable 37mm, it not only makes the dive watch feel slightly less sporty, but also less clunky when worn with a long-sleeved shirt. This, in turn, will appeal to a wider audience and reintroduce the Promaster to a new generation of fans. Usually when there is a reduction in real estate on a watch, certain features have to be conceded for space. Not so with the smaller Promaster Dive. Citizen has made a conscious effort to keep all the reasons longtime divers love this...

Editorial: All the Fuss Over a “Franken” Omega Speedmaster SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Earlier Jun 9, 2023

Editorial: All the Fuss Over a “Franken” Omega Speedmaster

Earlier this week, leading Swiss-German newspapers Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) published a lengthy story about the possible fraud behind the record-setting sale of an Omega Speedmaster ref. 2915-1 at Phillips in 2021. Mystifying at the time, the CHF3.12 million result was a huge number that far exceeded past records for that particular Speedmaster. As NZZ revealed in its story, the Speedmaster in question was a “Franken” watch pieced together from assorted vintage components – and some fake parts – and it was purchased by Omega itself, on the advice of its then museum head. The allegations are that the then museum head was in cahoots with the seller of the watch. Omega has gone to the police with this, and also released a statement, noting in part, “Omega and Phillips were the joint victims of organised criminal activity involving the selling of this specific watch by auction.” The Omega Museum, which fortunately has enough correct and legitimate vintage Speedmasters on display. Image – Omega Both Omega and Phillips should have done more due diligence, but it appears a few bad actors were diligent in allegedly defrauding Omega. For more on the matter, Dutch watch publication Fratello published an excellent examination of the happenings. The alleged fraud has been covered widely in the mass media, from Bloomberg to Fortune, ironically the same publications that last year touted the success and value-appreciation of the Speedmaster. Mountains and molehills The ...

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph

Drawing inspiration from the Kinetic Chronograph of 1999, Seiko’s latest is the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph. It is equipped with a new solar movement that has the ability to measure elapsed time with a resolution of up to 1/100th of a second, though its defining attribute is the design: the chronograph and time displays are separated into individual sub-dials. The SFJ007 made for the 2023 World Athletics Championships Initial thoughts Seiko’s sports chronographs, particularly those equipped with quartz or solar-powered movements, receive less recognition than their higher-end counterparts. However, some of the brand’s recent endeavours in this segment are interesting, and this is one of them. The primary point of interest in the new model lies in its unique aesthetic with a separated sub-dial design that fans of the brand recognise from the Kinetic Chronograph. The new Speedtimer reimagines the design with a smart and highly-functional movement and price tag of well under US$1,000, making it a compelling option for someone seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The Kinetic Chronograph from 1999. Image – Seiko Up to 1/100th of a second Having done away with the original closed dial of the Kinetic Chronograph, the Speedtimer features four registers beneath a curved sapphire crystal. Positioned at six is an oversized sub-dial displaying the time, while a 1/10th of a second chronograph sits at ten. The running seconds can be observed at 12, and a ...

The RZE Aspirare launches the brand into yet unexplored waters Time+Tide
Jun 7, 2023

The RZE Aspirare launches the brand into yet unexplored waters

I’ve often sung RZE’s praises as one of the few microbrands to have kept their prices as low as possible while providing fantastic specifications, and not giving in to the temptation of price gouging or corner-cutting. After they released the bang-for-buck Valour 38 to compete for field supremacy, and brought the best-selling Endeavour case to … ContinuedThe post The RZE Aspirare launches the brand into yet unexplored waters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration Time+Tide
Jun 7, 2023

The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration

Despite the obvious links to a passion for photography, it seems as though the chief mission for Horage is to redefine the meaning of ‘tool watch’. With cameras taking the bulk of the design inspiration, the photography links are merely an outlet for that proof of concept. Creating a beautiful, high-end watch can still be … ContinuedThe post The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Jun 6, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition

Having already debuted an oversized take on the ref. 765 AVI “Co-Pilot” of 1953, Breitling now introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42, a scaled-down version that pays homage to the vintage original. Unlike its bigger brother, the 46 mm Super AVI GMT that features a second time zone function, the Classic AVI is a no-frills watch with just the time and chronograph. The Classic AVI makes its debut with a range of regular-production models, each inspired by a historical fighter plane, alongside the limited-edition AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition. Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk Initial thoughts The Super AVI GMT is a vintage-inspired chronograph with an appealing design, but with the drawback of the 46 mm case – huge by even by modern standards. The introduction of a more compact version is welcome, even if this addition further expands Breitling’s extensive (and sometimes confusing) catalogue.  With its smaller case, the Classic AVI has arguably better proportions than its bigger brother, with dimensions better suited to the vintage-inspired styling. And because it is equipped with a Valjoux movement (otherwise known as the Breitling Caliber 23), the Classic AVI is amongst the most affordable Breitling chronographs, adding to its appeal. The P-51 Mustang The P-51 Mustang is the standout among the Classic AVI line-up. It has classic pilot’s chronograph aesthetics with a black dial and faux-patina Arabic numerals that provide a nostalgic feel.  But e...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Breslin revives the linen dial for the here and now Time+Tide
Jun 5, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Breslin revives the linen dial for the here and now

There’s certainly no shortage of creativity in the world of microbrands, but that energy doesn’t always get funnelled into watches that actually look good. Stella, the New York-based brand and brainchild of co-owners Stephen and Marcella (see where they got the name from), are one of the few who have managed to establish a beautiful … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Breslin revives the linen dial for the here and now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Casio x Stranger Things A120WEST-1A is ready for whatever parallel universe you’re entering Time+Tide
Casio x Stranger Things A120WEST-1A Jun 4, 2023

The Casio x Stranger Things A120WEST-1A is ready for whatever parallel universe you’re entering

Casio’s collaboration with Stranger Things brings back the reference A120. The A120WEST-1A is full of Stranger Things Easter eggs such as a blinking backlight. More A120 references should be released later in the year. Stranger Things certainly didn’t begin the nostalgic obsession for the 1980s, but it definitely kicked it into another gear. As the … ContinuedThe post The Casio x Stranger Things A120WEST-1A is ready for whatever parallel universe you’re entering appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHAT IF… Universal Genève was revived? Time+Tide
Universal Genève Jun 4, 2023

WHAT IF… Universal Genève was revived?

Universal Genève’s story is one of the highest of highs and lowest of lows. The brand experienced fruitful periods for much of its lifetime, only to become a victim of several unsuccessful post-quartz crisis revivals. Multiple star athletes, musical icons and toppled dictators all sported Universal Genève watches in some capacity, a few becoming heroes … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… Universal Genève was revived? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Accutron Spaceview Evolution is a more decorative twist on the Spaceview 2020 Time+Tide
Accutron Spaceview Evolution Jun 4, 2023

The Accutron Spaceview Evolution is a more decorative twist on the Spaceview 2020

New Accutron Spaceview Evolution is literally a twist on the Spaceview 2020 Movement orientation has shifted 30 degrees, offering a new dial aesthetic and crown placement at 2 o’clock  New decoration style for dial-side of the movement with “knurled” bridge detailing Accutron’s claim to fame is the fact that they were the first to offer … ContinuedThe post The Accutron Spaceview Evolution is a more decorative twist on the Spaceview 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The first double-faced watch wasn’t made by the brand you expect Time+Tide
Casio nally even double-sided displays Jun 3, 2023

The first double-faced watch wasn’t made by the brand you expect

Back in the centuries where pocket watches were the pinnacle of horology, experimentation was rife. Among the watches of royalty were incredible complications, calendars, automatons and glorious decorations – and occasionally even double-sided displays. For something encased in solid metal and kept in a soft pocket, it wasn’t too much of a stretch of the … ContinuedThe post The first double-faced watch wasn’t made by the brand you expect appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser’s New Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Has Been Unveiled with a Few Small Updates Worn & Wound
H. Moser s New Streamliner Flyback Jun 2, 2023

H. Moser’s New Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Has Been Unveiled with a Few Small Updates

As an object of pure fascination, there are few watch designs that come close to H. Moser’s Streamliner. I have been low key obsessed with it since the first Streamliner appeared in early, pre-pandemic 2020. That first chronograph was, at first, baffling to me. I found myself drawn to it even though I’m not really much of a chronograph guy, integrated bracelet sports watches aren’t my thing, and, at the time, I didn’t really appreciate Moser, either. At the end of the day, the Streamliner’s subversion of my own expectations of what a luxury integrated bracelet sports watch should be are what makes it successful. If you find the Royal Oak cold and clinical, the Streamliner is warm and organic by comparison. If the Nautilus is the choice of Patagonia-vested finance bros, the Streamliner gets the endorsement of sneakerheads. Even at its most opulent, it’s the kind of watch that makes me feel kind of giddy, as opposed to slack-jawed intimidation, which doesn’t always translate into a successful wearing experience in my opinion. In a landscape of integrated bracelet sports watches that all kind of feel like riffs on each other, the Streamliner still feels like a true original to me.  For those reasons, I’m always interested in new versions of the Streamliner. As a blank canvas, it’s capable of communicating all of the things Moser excels at, depending on how they decide to execute any particular reference. The latest Streamliner is an update to the original c...

Tudor vs Rolex is no longer such a fanciful comparison and a visit to the new manufacture shows why Time+Tide
Tudor vs Rolex Jun 2, 2023

Tudor vs Rolex is no longer such a fanciful comparison and a visit to the new manufacture shows why

At Watches & Wonders this year, one night I accidentally got on the wrong bus from the Palexpo convention centre and found myself whizzing through the streets of Geneva in an unfamiliar neighbourhood. Aware of my plight, a kindly local on the next seat advised me where I should get off and we then struck … ContinuedThe post Tudor vs Rolex is no longer such a fanciful comparison and a visit to the new manufacture shows why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show Time+Tide
Frederique Constant ContinuedThe post FRIDAY Jun 2, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show

Just ahead of the weekend, two brands have announced some exciting news! Citizen to open multi-brand flagship in New York City Some people hear the Citizen name, and think solely of the brand. But Citizen, or the Citizen Watch Group, is actually a multi-brand conglomerate that not only includes Citizen, but also Alpina, Frederique Constant, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune DB28: How I Launched It, Why I Bought It, And Why It’s The Perfect ‘One Watch’ – Reprise Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB28 How I Launched Jun 1, 2023

De Bethune DB28: How I Launched It, Why I Bought It, And Why It’s The Perfect ‘One Watch’ – Reprise

De Bethune celebrated the tenth anniversary of its groundbreaking DB28 in 2020 and, as Ian Skellern's relationship with the model goes back the full decade, it seemed an appropriate time for him to share the story of how he came to launch the DB28, own a DB28, and what he thinks of the DB28 after wearing one regularly for 10 years.