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Seiko Debuts a Smaller, Thinner Prospex Marinemaster SJX Watches
Longines Nov 20, 2023

Seiko Debuts a Smaller, Thinner Prospex Marinemaster

Seiko has remade its high-end dive watch with a new, slimmer movement and consequently more compact watch. Still known as the Prospex Marinemaster, the new model is available in three variants (SJE097, SJE099, and SJE101), all sharing a design heavily influenced by the brand’s first-ever dive watch, the “62MAS” from 1965. Initial thoughts Marinemaster models long been solid but chunky watches, with examples including the Hi-Beat 36,000 limited edition or the forest green model from 2021. A more compact iteration enhances its appeal, especially with the recent popularity of smaller, vintage-inspired dive watches. The “62MAS” model from 1965. Image – Seiko The design still echoes the original 62MAS, particularly in the dial and bezel layout. However, the new model, especially the light blue variant, gains a more contemporary feel with the horizontally striped dial along and the engraved markings on the bezel. The patterned dial easily brings to mind other sports watches, so it does seem a bit derivative, but Seiko’s position as a maker of dive watches is strong enough that this still looks and feels like a Seiko. The latest Marinemaster is priced at US$2,800, reflecting Seiko’s gradual upmarket move over recent years. This places it squarely within the mid-tier dive watch segment also occupied by brands such as such as Doxa or Longines. While it remains a compelling option at this price, it is no longer such a clear value proposition relative to the competit...

A Must-See for Everyone! Horological Neophytes, All Industry Professionals (including Marketing/Communication/Admin), and Press, this talk by Stephen McDonnell is For You – Don’t Miss This! Quill & Pad
Nov 20, 2023

A Must-See for Everyone! Horological Neophytes, All Industry Professionals (including Marketing/Communication/Admin), and Press, this talk by Stephen McDonnell is For You – Don’t Miss This!

I estimate I’ve seen - and have personally moderated 10 Dubai Watch Week Horological Forums talks - around 80 of these ‘events’, and many  have been very, very, good: either. But at the 2023 fair I saw one that just blew me away (and I’m a jaded old industry veteran). Don't miss this!

H. Moser & Cie.’s Sports Watch Gets a Fired Enamel Dial SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie.’s Sports Watch Nov 18, 2023

H. Moser & Cie.’s Sports Watch Gets a Fired Enamel Dial

Alongside its compatriots MB&F; and Ressence, H. Moser & Cie. is utilising Dubai Watch Week to debut a new model, the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, which is also the premiere of the all-new HMC 500 movement with a micro-rotor. The first Streamliner to sport a grand feu enamel dial, the new Small Seconds retains the model’s familiar styling but with recognisably different proportions with a smaller and thinner case. Initial thoughts While it is thiner and smaller, the new model has a similarly sized dial, giving it a completely different look and feel compared to the centre-seconds model. As a result, the Streamliner Small Seconds has a bit more of a retro feel in terms of proportions. The enamel dial is an interesting twist on the blue dial that’s become the norm for luxury-sports watches, and it is attractive, but a peculiar and somewhat mismatched feature for a sports watch given the relative fragility of enamel compared to a standard brass dial. Over on the back, the view is also attractive as the architecture of the HMC 500 was clearly devised with aesthetics in mind. The movement reveals lots of moving parts and sports high-contrast finishing, giving it an intricate appearance that’s different from past Moser automatic movements. Priced at CHF29,900, the new Streamliner is about 50% pricier than its centre-seconds counterpart. The price increase can be justified by the enamel dial and new movement, though the new watch is pricey enough that the value pr...

IWC Debuts the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona or Heuer Carrera Nov 18, 2023

IWC Debuts the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph

Just in time for the Formula 1 Las Vegas Grand Prix, IWC reveals another rendition of a racing chronograph, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph. Available in two guises either titanium or Ceratanium, the new model retains the familiar visage of the standard Pilot’s Chronograph but with racetrack-inspired tweaks. Initial thoughts IWC has never quite had a bona fide racing chronograph with the gravitas of the Rolex Daytona or Heuer Carrera. Its past racing timepieces included the little loved and now discontinued Ingenieur and the more successful Pilot’s Chronograph Mercedes-AMG.  With the success of the Pilot’s Chronograph Mercedes-AMG with its Tiffany blue-esque colour, it’s unsurprising that another iteration has come along. The new chronograph has a distinctive racing aesthetic despite being a Pilot’s Chronograph, thanks to the tachymeter scale and more pronounced dial markings. The Formula 1 feel is particularly evident in the Ceratanium model that’s distinguished by its predominantly black design embellished with white and mint green accents.  That said, the paradox of a Formula 1-inspired aviator’s watch is hard to understand – the two themes don’t go together at all, although it is an appealing sports watch. IWC is relying on the strength of its bestselling Pilot’s line to build a racing offering, in part due to the Ingenieur’s historical lack of success. The Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team model The model starts at US$9,800 in ...

Recapping the 2023 NYC Windup Watch Fair: The Largest Consumer Watch Event in North America Worn & Wound
Nov 16, 2023

Recapping the 2023 NYC Windup Watch Fair: The Largest Consumer Watch Event in North America

Another year of Windup Watch Fairs is in the books and we couldn’t have asked for a better end to 2023 than the New York City installment hosted just a few short weeks ago. After eight years of producing Windup Fairs around the US, it’s hard to imagine the show continually exceeding our expectations, but in 2023 we were once again pleasantly surprised. And needless to say, the foundation to this success are you, our readers. The Worn & Wound community is truly something special. You bring boundless enthusiasm to every Windup Fair and never make newcomers feel out of place. You show love to the participating brands, whether or not their specific products are your cup of tea. You make our team feel appreciated for all of their hard work, which makes our jobs that much more fulfilling. From everyone at Worn & Wound and everyone involved in the Windup Watch Fair, thank you! This year’s NYC Windup Watch Fair featured the most brands under one Windup roof ever. In total, over 80 brands showcased their goods, including watches over every style and price point, accessories galore, and, more than ever, non-watch products like pens, knives, flashlights, vintage print advertisements, and apparel. But all this product is nothing without an audience, and boy did we have an audience. This year’s show was the most well-attended Windup ever, with Saturday breaking all single-day records for attendance and product sales.  To take a look back at the weekend’s festivities, we’ve...

How a Hamilton Pocket Watch Pulled Me Out of a Slump Worn & Wound
Hamilton Pocket Watch Pulled Me Nov 14, 2023

How a Hamilton Pocket Watch Pulled Me Out of a Slump

In the last few years, I think the pandemic took something from everyone-for me it was my job, and my life in NYC. Eleven years spent going to graduate school, forging friendships, working, and finding my place in New York City, and one day it all vanished. I am fortunate and privileged enough to have had family and friends to lean on in my hometown of Chesapeake, Virginia. However, coming back to Virginia felt like moving in reverse.  I came back to be with my family, no longer a full-time literary agent and adjunct professor, but hellbent to claw my way toward something I could love. In the meantime, a friend from high school, Kathleen, hired me to cook at her café, Battlegrounds, until I could find whatever was to come next.   The headspace was humbling, and I was wounded. My life was changed, and it wasn’t my choice. The friends who held me up every day in New York were not physically present to provide a shoulder. But the café was filled with positivity emanating from the young people who worked with me, and the regular customers who came just to talk and indulge in a latte and a breakfast sandwich.  One of those regulars was James, a lawyer around 40 years my senior (I’m 36 for context). James’s office was next door to the café and every morning he’d walk over for a cup of coffee with fresh cut flowers from his extensive garden. Battlegrounds was adorned each day with James’s vibrance. He’d take a seat in front of the grill and would talk to me a...

Timex Introduces a Trio of Watches Inspired by the Art of Keith Haring Worn & Wound
Timex Introduces Nov 13, 2023

Timex Introduces a Trio of Watches Inspired by the Art of Keith Haring

Across the 80’s, it would have been hard to miss the cultural impact that Keith Haring’s work had. Influenced by the graffiti culture of New York City, Haring mixed visual storytelling with an irreverence that caught the attention of art elite and the average Joe alike.  More than 30 years on from his death, Haring’s legacy has been immortalized in everything from Pandora rings to H&M; capsules. Now, Timex is honoring the artist with three new references that show the whimsy and urbanity of Haring’s work. Inspired by Haring’s early work of white graffiti on dark subway tiles, these three watches have a striking contrast of black-and-white that instantly makes them hard to miss. While elements of Haring’s work touch on the design, each reference is wholly Timex, making this a collaboration that highlights both the artist and the maker. The Timex x Keith Haring Easy Reader (ref: TW2W25400) is first on the list for those looking to show off some 80’s-style high art graffiti. It features an INDIGLO backlight, quartz movement, mineral glass crystal, and a 30 meter water-resistant design. The watch stands out with a customized strap featuring Haring’s work, adding a further dimension to the co-branding experience. With a 38mm case diameter and 18mm lug width, it strikes a balanced profile for both men and women to enjoy. Next on the list is the Timex x Keith Haring T80 (ref: TW2W25500), a digital watch that’s equipped with a chronograph, daily alarm, and month,...

Patek Philippe Pays Tribute to Philippe Stern with the Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Pays Tribute Nov 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Pays Tribute to Philippe Stern with the Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P

To celebrate Philippe Stern’s 85th birthday, Patek Philippe has released the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P-001. The 30-piece limited edition is a minute repeater with a novel alarm function that chimes the programmed time, powered by a new calibre that will never be repeated. The watch is also a tribute in a literal sense: the fired enamel dial bears a monochromatic portrait of Philippe Stern, now the honorary president of Patek Philippe and the man who laid the foundations of the Geneva watchmaker’s present-day success. Initial thoughts This watch was long anticipated since it was first teased for Only Watch 2023, where it was announced as a unique piece made for the charity auction followed by a limited edition release. Now we have the specifics of the watch and it is impressive in technique, even if the dial is surprising at first sight. Evocative of the iconic black-and-white portrait of Francis Ford-Coppola’s 1972 film The Godfather, portrait of Mr Stern initially feels out of place in such a classical watch. But then it is perhaps not as apparent on a wrist when reading the time, and more importantly, considering Mr Stern’s achievements he deserves an overwhelmingly prominent place on a watch. It is a certainty that the buyers of the 30 watches will be clients personally acquainted with Mr Stern – word has it that all were allocated by Geneva prior to launch – and I imagine all of them would be happy to concede part of the dial to him. With four new pa...

Editorial: Winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 10, 2023

Editorial: Winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) announced its 2023 winners last night in a ceremony in its traditional venue, the theatre in the Fairmont hotel. Compared to 2022, most of the jury members for the year were new faces, including Anish Bhatt of Watchanish and Ben Clymer of Hodinkee. Presided over by author Nick Foulkes, the jury assembled a list of winners that included several surprises. Some watches rightly triumphed in competitive categories, but in others the prizes felt like they were awarded for lack of alternatives. In nearly all categories, however, the winners had merit, with the only exception being the Van Cleef & Arpels Éveil du Cyclamen Automaton that did not win the Mechanical Clock category. The biggest winner of the evening was expected and deserving, going to Audemars Piguet for the Code 11.59 Universelle grand complication. While not the prettiest watch, the Universelle is certainly the most technically impressive watch of the year and deserves the Aiguille d’Or, or “Golden Hand”, the top prize of the event, which was claimed by the brand’s outgoing chief executive, Francois-Henry Bennahmias (pictured above). Not only is the Universelle exceptionally complicated, it approaches several complications in an ingenious manner. Other widely foreseen winners were Petermann Bédat with its 2941 split-seconds in the Chronograph category. Despite my criticism of some aspects of the movement construction, the rattrapante chronograph is undoubte...

Recent Limited Editions: MAEN and BOLDR Creations with Worn & Wound Worn & Wound
Boldr Creations Nov 9, 2023

Recent Limited Editions: MAEN and BOLDR Creations with Worn & Wound

It’s been a busy year here at Worn & Wound and the Windup Watch Shop, and one of the most enjoyable aspects of being in this space is the ability to get creative and collaborate with our partners on exciting new products. Limited Editions, or LEs, allow creative juices to run wild while conceptualizing something on a smaller scale for those who are in the know. They also provide avenues for new folks to join the hobby and for everyone to have the chance to own something extra special. Two of our recent LEs are the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan and the BOLDR x Worn & Wound 3xT GMT. Offered at similar price points, these are two very different but equally intriguing collections – let’s take a closer look. It’s been a busy year here at Worn & Wound and the Windup Watch Shop, and one of the most enjoyable aspects of being in this space is the ability to get creative and collaborate with our partners on exciting new products. Limited Editions, or LEs, allow creative juices to run wild while conceptualizing something on a smaller scale for those who are in the know. They also provide avenues for new folks to join the hobby and for everyone to have the chance to own something extra special. Two of our recent LEs are the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan and the BOLDR x Worn & Wound 3xT GMT. Offered at similar price points, these are two very different but equally intriguing collections – let’s take a closer look. The post Recent Limited Editions: MAEN and BOLDR Creations ...

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey” SJX Watches
Tudor Nov 7, 2023

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”

After shading the Aqua Terra Worldtimer line in greys and greens, Omega debuts the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”. A new take on its dive-ready GMT, the watch  is named after the dark grey ceramic case, which harnesses the material’s hardness while staying lightweight thanks to the extensive use of titanium for its internals, including the movement bridges. Initial thoughts Titanium and ceramic are not noteworthy in themselves, but here the materials are combined in an interesting and functional manner. The scratch resistance of ceramic is useful for the case, while the titanium inner components keep the weight down, a helpful characteristic for a big watch. And the materials also create a shades-of-grey appearance that gives the watch a sense of seriousness – with the orange accents bringing some tasteful contrast – though it is less stark compared to its all-black ceramic sibling.  Thought lighter than usual for a watch of its size, the new GMT is a big watch measuring 45.5 mm in diameter, making it quite a bit bigger than comparable watches from Tudor for instance.  It would be more wearable and have a wider appealing if the case was in the range of 41 mm to 42 mm. Despite its material attractions, however, the GMT “Dark Grey” is expensive at US$22,200. It is  almost twice as expensive as the same model in black ceramic (that admittedly doesn’t have a titanium movement). Despite the titanium components, the price is hard to justify since it i...

Grand Seiko Introduces Three US Exclusives at their GS9 Club Event Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Three US Exclusives Nov 6, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces Three US Exclusives at their GS9 Club Event

Grand Seiko held their annual GS9 Club gathering for members of their collecting community over the weekend, and just like last year’s event in Brooklyn, this year’s festivities involved the launch of a new watch. Three watches, in fact, made their debut at the GS9 event this year, which for the first time took place on the west coast. The new watches are all fresh spins on the midsize 44GS case that Grand Seiko debuted to much fanfare in 2022, and they’re also all exclusive releases for the US market.  Beyond another expansion of what is proving to be a fan favorite case size, the news here is that this release sees the Mt. Iwate pattern coming to the 36.5mm stainless steel 44GS case. The Mt. Iwate pattern draws on the ridges of the Japanese peak as seen from the brand’s facilities in Shizukuishi for inspiration, and it’s notable for the way it can disappear in certain lighting conditions and really come alive in others.  There are three new dial variants as part of this release, each linked to a specific characteristic of the natural world around Shizukuishi and Japanese culture. The SBGW313 has a deep pink dial, inspired by blooming cherry blossoms. While this is certainly ground that Grand Seiko has covered in the past, it’s a beautiful shade of pink and the first time the color has been given the Mt. Iwate treatment. The SBGW311 has a dial that is inspired by Japan’s rainy season, with a tone meant to evoke the lush greenery of the region. And the SBGW...

The 17 Best Dive Watches Under $500 Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 3, 2023

The 17 Best Dive Watches Under $500

Dive watches continue to reign as one of the most popular timepiece styles out there, and the sheer breadth of choices in that genre - in the areas of size, design, colorway, and especially pricing - can be intimidating to the new watch enthusiast who might be just on the verge of taking the plunge (you should pardon the expression) into purchasing their first dive watch. Here we've gathered a dozen of our favorites with the budget-conscious consumer in mind: everything on this list can be had for $500 or under. (In a few cases, even though the MSRP comes in higher, you can acquire them below the $500 threshold directly from our online store; just follow the shopping links.) Casio Duro Price: $74.95, Case Size: 48.5mm x 44.2mm, Case Height: 12.1mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Quartz Analog Outside of its mega-popular G-Shock series (see directly below), It’s tempting to pigeonhole Casio as a maker of solely digital watches, but the brand also offers a handful of analog timepieces at similarly mass-market prices. Consider the Casio Duro, the Japanese manufacturer’s series of round-cased, analog-dial dive watches. At this very pedestrian price range, it is difficult to find a diver that offers what the Duro offers: a well-finished steel case, rotating dive-scale bezel with aluminum insert, 200-meter water resistance, and sunburst dial with lume-coated hands and indexes. The screw-down caseback sports an image of a Marlin, which als...

Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture Worn & Wound
Nov 3, 2023

Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture

To this day, one of my favorite reviews that I’ve written for the website is that of the Ophion 786 Velos. Sometimes, you get a watch in your hands and it just kind of blows you away, shifting your perspective about what’s possible in a particular genre or price bracket. It can also subtly change your own taste. I still think about those Ophions fondly, and have been excitedly awaiting new work from the brand. Today, Ophion introduces the 411 Vesper, which feels like a significant step forward for the brand in terms of their ambition and the levels of intricacy introduced into the manufacturing process, particularly with respect to the dial.  The Vesper’s design inspiration comes from an influential work of architecture that was never actually built. The Newton Cenotaph, a conceptual work by the architect Étienne-Louis Boullée designed as a tribute to the English scientist, is dominated by an enormous spherical structure 500 feet tall, surrounded by two circular barriers dotted with cypress trees. Boullée was particularly interested in spherical shapes, and his work includes a study referred to as his “theory of bodies” which asserts that the sphere is nature’s most beautiful and perfect shape.  The Newton Cenotaph Ophion’s new Vesper incorporates many of the key design ideas from the Cenotaph into the watch itself. First and foremost, spheres and circular shapes are everywhere. Not just within the dial, but the case (39mm in diameter, 11.45mm tall) , lu...

[VIDEO] Review: The Delightfully Odd Longines HydroConquest GMT Worn & Wound
Longines HydroConquest GMT Watches Nov 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: The Delightfully Odd Longines HydroConquest GMT

Watches that break from conventional wisdom tend to provide the most memorable experiences on the wrist. We search out such examples around here and embrace new watches that aren’t afraid to cut against the grain in some way, shape, or form. Doing so presents a risk for brands, particularly large, well established brands. A by-the-numbers design meant to appeal to the largest possible swath of the population must, by definition, be as inoffensive as possible. Deviation from the template risks putting out a percentage of would-be buyers, but it also creates grounds for differentiation, a necessity in today’s crowded landscape of watch brands young and old. Achieving balance here means a design that’s unique and exciting, while being accessible enough to sell to enough people to make it work financially.  Generally, the larger the brand the safer they play with this equation. But that’s not always the case, as many large brands still produce polarizing yet recognizable watches that have a focused appeal to a group of die hard fans. I’ll let you conjure up your own examples of watches that fall into this category. One such testament is the Longines HydroConquest, a watch with a big personality that’s been emblematic of the era it was originally designed in, the mid ‘00s. Longines was ahead of the game when it introduced the HydroConquest in 2007, presenting a fully modern, forward looking take on a serious dive watch at Baselworld, and even offered in both 39 a...

Maurice de Mauriac Honors Classic Motorsport with a Customizable Chronograph Worn & Wound
Nov 1, 2023

Maurice de Mauriac Honors Classic Motorsport with a Customizable Chronograph

Since 1997, Swiss watch brand Maurice de Mauriac has made an effort to think outside the box by mixing their national heritage in watchmaking with a bit of humor and storytelling mixed into each reference. Take, for instance, their latest, the Chrono Modern Grand Prix Zurich, where the story of this new release has taken the design elements from zero to sixty.  To understand the Chrono Modern Grand Prix Zurich, one has to go back to 1939 at the outbreak of WWII. Zurich had plans to host their own Grand Prix; but, due to geopolitical tensions, the festivities were canceled. It wasn’t until nearly 80 years later when Maurice de Mauriac and racing simulation company, Züri Ring Simulation, were inspired to add a bit of pedal to the metal in the latest release from the brand. The racing simulation offers riders 200 racetracks and 200 cars to choose from as they race through a course designed to put the rider right into the action. Meanwhile, Maurice de Mauriac’s Chrono Modern Grand Prix Zurich complements this high-octane offering with two color options that are as subtle as they are impactful, showcasing the best of automotive culture and Swiss design into one. Choosing between either a brushed stainless steel or stainless steel with black PVD coating, wearers have a timeless watch that pairs well with just about any style. The racing visuals are only enhanced by the stripes on the dial or the Lucky Number at the 9 o’clock mark, which wearers can choose to really make ...

Breitling Revamps Their Avenger Collection Worn & Wound
Breitling Revamps Their Avenger Collection Nov 1, 2023

Breitling Revamps Their Avenger Collection

Breitling is keeping their foot on the gas in redesigning their core collection of aviation watches, and this time they’ve updated their modern pilot range, the Avenger collection. As opposed to Breitling’s other collections, such as the Navitimer and the AVI, the Avenger is relatively new with just over 20 years under its belt. As such, the design feels anchored in a very different aesthetic, which has now been updated to slightly more modern sensibilities while still being a familiar sight overall. The new Avenger collection welcomes a chronograph, a GMT, and time and date watches, each with a variety of options totaling 11 new references altogether.  The Aveneger has always been an aviation watch aimed at the more extreme end of things, proudly boasting the winged B logo on its dial and an unorthodox design to suit the needs of the jet pilots it was intended for. The latest generations looks to smooth out a few of the rough edges, and create a design some may consider more palatable to a wider audience. In the process, the Avenger doesn’t quite have the same impact it once had, but will it be more approachable as a result? The new collection ditches the winged B logo, opting for the large scripted B instead, leaving the Professional collection as the last holdout for the classic rendition. The distinctive bezel with heavy block section added to the cardinal positions remains, though in a slightly less aggressive manner than we’ve seen it in the past. This may b...