Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Nomos Glashütte Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date In White
The swim-ready Nomos finally receives the brand's most classic livery.
Results for Magic Lever Winding
1,318 articles · 425 videos found · page 48 of 59
Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Seamaster Green Diver 300m Review
How does a vintage-watch lover end up loving the green-dialed Omega Seamaster Diver 300M? Before I answer that, let's get a little philosophical. The deeper you get into this watch hobby, the more you start to understand what a “you watch" is. You build a collection, no matter how big or small, that either jibes with your style, your wrist size, or your general vibe. For example, I tend to gravitate towards old things or things tied to some sort of meaningful historical context. I also tend to like things that everyone else doesn’t. This tracks almost identically with my music taste (a lot of Beatles, Beach Boys, and Velvet Underground mixed with an intense love for ‘90s and 2000s indie rock). This is why the two-tone Rolex Datejust holds a special place in my heart, along with vintage Submariners, classic gold dress watches, and basically anything in the 36mm size arena. Finding a niche like this, however, does not mean that you don’t daydream of cosplaying as someone else — someone who could effortlessly pull off a 46mm diver, or an IWC Big Pilot, or even an Urwerk. It’s like those moments when a Gracie Abrams song appears in your music shuffle and you hesitate to change the song but you’re also afraid to maybe admit, “This is actually good?” Now, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M has been around since 1993 (or, if you want a full history of the Seamaster, you can read it here), and the contemporary iteration was initially released in 2018. This update mad...
Quill & Pad
The Joy Of Port, Especially Vintage Port (With Tasting Notes)
Port is special for Ken Gargett as it was what originally led to his love of and fascination with wine. Here he provides an overview of Port styles that no wine lover should miss!
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in Crystallized Titanium
Initially launched as a unique piece in a crystallized titanium case for Only Watch 2023, the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph was then added to the catalog, most recently as a limited edition in ceramic. Now the model returns in its original crystallized titanium livery, accented in lime green. Under the hood is a high-beat Vaucher chronograph movement, also used by Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille. The split-seconds is the flagship of the Monaco collection, impressive inside and out – with a price to match – but seemingly runs counter to the brand’s established direction of affordable sports watches. Initial Thoughts The latest iteration of the Monaco split-seconds is the best yet, price aside. The variants of the model released between the one-off for Only Watch and this felt incomplete without the crystallized titanium case. The material is visually and technically interesting, and its resemblance to forged carbon fits the automotive theme; lime green accents notwithstanding, it’s a good-looking watch. Image – TAG Heuer A rattrapante is a natural fit for an auto racing-focused brand like TAG Heuer, but the ambitious CHF145,000 price is confusing, given TAG Heuer’s efforts toward making the Swiss-made tourbillon affordable. The Monaco split-seconds itself is excellent – the movement especially so – but an affordable rattrapante would be more in line with the brand’s recent direction. While the base movement is shared with costlier Richar...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Breitling Top Time B01 Martini Racing
A compact cushion-cased chronograph powered by the mighty B01 and rocking an iconic motorsport livery.
Video
Tudor 2023 releases. Best updates ever
Fratello
Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”
We knew something was coming from Tudor this weekend. We also knew it would be related to this weekend’s F1 Grand Prix at the Miami International Autodrome. It had Tudor fans speculating what this new release could be. Especially after the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls F1 team announced a full pink race livery for […] Visit Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif
After teasing collectors with the compact Chronomètre Furtif Bleu in 2023, F.P. Journe has unveiled its successor, the Chronomètre Furtif (CF). The CF offers the same dimensions as its predecessor as well as a similar laser-engraved grand feu enamel dial, but takes the idea of furtif, or “stealthy”, even further with black-on-black livery. While the CF Bleu was a one-off piece in tantalum made for the Only Watch charity auction where it sold for CHF2 million, the new CF is a regular production model crafted almost entirely from scratch-resistant tungsten carbide. Initial thoughts The CF is a watch that hits you over the head with its intense darkness and exceptional weight. It’s not dark in the same way as an H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Vantablack, which effectively absorbs light; rather, the dial is a deep glossy black like the glass of an iPhone screen. This reflectivity makes it difficult to photograph but easy to enjoy. These characteristics are thanks to the flawless black grand feu enamel dial and laser-engraved markings. Because of the way the light plays across the dial, it looks slightly different from almost every angle. It’s a dramatic and interactive dial that contributes significantly to the overall wearing experience. The CF is a true heavyweight, tipping the scales at 250 g. But it feels even heavier on account of its wearable 42 mm footprint and slim 9.55 mm thickness. This size-to-weight ratio gives it an almost overwhelming sense of density. The wa...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary
Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th anniversary with the record-setting, most-complicated-watch-ever, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. Fortunately, the celebratory line-up also includes the more affordable: one step down in the collection is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary. Less complicated than the Solaria, but still one of the top-of-the-line anniversary offerings, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is an entirely new model, rather than an existing model dressed in anniversary livery. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar combines the self-winding cal. 2160 with a perpetual calendar mechanism, while both the dial and movement get the 270th anniversary-exclusive treatment. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is a fairly large but thin watch, with a clean, traditional design with tasteful elaboration. Formal on its face, the watch gets more interesting up close with the anniversary decor on the dial and movement. Overall, the look and feel is elegant; essentially the type of watch that Vacheron Constantin (VC) does well. The execution is high quality and typical of an established, industrial-artisanal brand. The tourbillon bridge and cage stand out as being especially finely finished. Notably, the guilloche on the dial is done the traditional way, on a hand-operated straight-line engine – which is necessary for a watch of this price – while on the entry-level anniversary models the same pattern is achieved via stam...
Deployant
New: highlights from the Jaeger Le-Coultre WWG25 collection
Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces a series of Reverso timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2025 that are sure to pull the heartstrings of any Reverso lover.
Quill & Pad
Own a Piece of Watch History for Under $200: The Swatch Sistem51
The Swatch Sistem51 has been around since Baselworld 2013, and has received a lot of positive and negative coverage. However, removing the noise, the Sistem51 remains a great technical achievement and will go down as a defining historical model. It’s not perfect, but for any watch lover, it is still worth considering.
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The BEST bang for buck square Gshock EVER - GWM5610U - almost PERFECT
SJX Watches
Ming Introduces the 37.09 Uni
Ming has unveiled the 37.09 Uni, the latest addition to its line of dive watches. Sharing the same architecture as its predecessor-the 37.09 Bluefin, the “Uni” has a black-and-orange aesthetic along with 600 m of water resistance. According to Ming, the livery of the 37.09 Uni takes inspiration from the sea urchin, uni in Japanese. The watch features a DLC-coated stainless steel case and an orange scaled on the inner sapphire dial that measures elapsed time. Initial thoughts I appreciate the distinctive Ming aesthetic with its signature flared lugs and minimalist here. Here it’s combined with a sapphire dial and subtle orange accents, and the result is appealing. The 37.09 Uni, however, costs CHF5,250, which is steep price tag for what it is. Although the overall execution is elaborate, it’s still a micro-brand dive watch equipped with an inexpensive (albeit customised) Sellita movement. While there was a moment during the pandemic where micro-brand offerings somehow made sense at various points of the price spectrum, due in part to the unavailability of everything else, but that time has passed. For Ming fans, the new diver is an appealing watch, but for everyone else there are alternatives. Uni Designed in the familiar Ming style, the DLC-coated stainless steel case is compact at 38 mm in diameter, though it has the height of a dive watch at 12.8 mm in thickness. Entirely matte brushed, the case sports a stepped bezel and domed sapphire crystal. Two oversized c...
SJX Watches
Explained: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time
Perhaps Louis Vuitton’s most famous complication, the Spin Time is a three-dimensional jump hour that was historically synonymous with the original, chunky Tambour case. Now Louis Vuitton has revamped both the complication and case to create the Tambour Taiko Spin Time. More compact and elegant than its predecessor, the Tambour Taiko is an expertly detailed case matched with restrained “dolphin grey” livery. Also employed in the new Convergence, the new case is home to an equally new family of in-house movements that will be the foundation of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking. All of the Tambour Taiko Spin Time models – there are four in all, plus two gem-set variants – are equipped with movements from this family. The line-up starts with the 39.5 mm base model, while the rest are all 42.5 mm. They include the Spin Time Antipode with a novel world time function, and the top-of-the-line Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon combining the jumping hours complication with a central tourbillon. All feature the signature Spin Time display of jumping cubes that indicate the current hour with a contrast-colour face. From left: Spin Time, Spin Time Air, Spin Time Antipode, and Spin Time Flying Tourbillon (not to scale) Initial thoughts Though I like very much the original, chunky Tambour, the redesigned case has a more subtle, refined appeal. The Tambour Taiko is far more wearable and boasts a noticeably higher level of finishing and detail, though it does lose some of th...
Time+Tide
James McVey and Andrew each share 3 watches they like to travel with
James McVey is not only a celebrated musician and member of The Vamps, he is also a certified watch lover down bad with "The Sickness".The post James McVey and Andrew each share 3 watches they like to travel with appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Collecting Journey: Six picks for your First Luxury Watch
Back to the basics! We shortlist our choice first luxury watch within the budget of SGD 10,000 for collectors wanting to start their horological journey!
Worn & Wound
Colorado’s Best Kept Secret: The 5280 Watch Company is Making Timepieces with Enamel Dials for Under $4,000
This summer, a new American watch company quietly launched in Denver, Colorado. Fittingly named 5280 after the Mile High City where the brand calls home, this watchmaker is tackling an artistic craft that’s particularly near and dear to my heart: vitreous enamel. 5280 is the brainchild of founder Rich Keel, a longtime watch collector. For him, timepieces have always been less about functionality and more about wearable art. In addition to being a lover of watches, Keel is a lover of art of all kinds. “I’ve always been a big fan of Impressionism and its vibrant colors, beauty, depth, and richness-really art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries is what I gravitate toward,” he shares. “Faberge eggs are another artform that’s always fascinated me. So, when I decided I wanted to bring my passion for watches and art together and create my own company, the goal was to put a Faberge egg on a watch face.” Despite his knowledge and appreciation for art, Keel admits he’s “utterly inept when it comes to being artistic,” so he knew he’d have to tap the right craftsman to execute his vision. Enter Bill Brinker, an expert in guilloche and enamel work and a true artist through and through. I’ve had the pleasure of interviewing and training with a number of masters in the arts of guilloche and enamel work throughout my career and in my personal pursuit of the crafts, but none have quite as unique and fascinating a story as Brinker. He hails from a tow...
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You've Never Seen a Watch Like This Before!
SJX Watches
The Omega Speedmaster for Military Pilots is Now Available to Civilians
Originally conceived for pilots of the US military (and covered here by Fratello), the Omega Speedmaster Pilot is now available to civilians. The origins of the watch explain the military-influenced, instrument-style dial design, which is meant to evoke the utilitarian nature of an instrument panel inside a fighter jet. The regular production version of the watch retains the same specs as the military exclusive, but with different livery. The case has the straight lugs of the Speedmaster “Ed White” but in a larger format thanks to the automatic cal. 9900 inside. Initial thoughts I’m something of an outlier amongst enthusiasts since I prefer automatic to manual-wind, even within the Speedmaster collection. While a manual-wind movement is traditional for the Speedy, I appreciate the day-to-day convenience of an automatic. Additionally, Omega’s latest-generation automatic chronograph movements are all impressively high-spec. While the Speedmaster Pilot may not achieve the same aesthetic purity as its manual-wind counterparts, it remains an excellent everyday option, especially with the military provenance. That said, the military provenance is not exactly military-issue. The watch was designed for military pilots who presumably buy it on a personal basis for off-duty wear; it is not an actual mil-spec instrument watch. This can be seen in the dial design, which has aviation-inspired elements, rather than actual, functional indicators for pilots. Even though this is m...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
The Holiday Gift Guide for the Bauhaus Design-Minded: Think Sternglas Watches
Sternglas was born from a deep passion for watches and Bauhaus design. After working in the world of watches for years, Dustin Fontaine wanted to turn his love into his very own brand. The result is Sternglas, a brand focused on minimalist design and quality construction at a fair price. This focus on Bauhaus principles, plus an affordable price tag, makes a Sternglas watch ideal for giving as a gift, especially for that minimalist, Bauhaus design lover in your life with premium features like sapphire glass, reliable automatic movements, and that crucial element of German design language. For this guide, we’ve selected six different models-each with their own distinct, yet modern vibe-to give you a wide range of choice to find that perfect gift for that design-minded friend or family member! The post The Holiday Gift Guide for the Bauhaus Design-Minded: Think Sternglas Watches appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer’s latest Formula 1 Chronograph celebrates Red Bull’s 20 years of F1 dominance
Decked out in Red Bull livery colours, this limited edition marks Red Bull Racing's 20th season in Formula 1.The post TAG Heuer’s latest Formula 1 Chronograph celebrates Red Bull’s 20 years of F1 dominance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Unique Tudor Black Bay Ceramic for Las Vegas Grand Prix
Building upon the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” made just for the Miami Grand Prix in May, Tudor just unveiled the Black Bay Ceramic in green-blue livery, which will be worn by drivers Yuki Tsunoda and Liam Lawson of the Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team (VCARB) during the Formula 1 Las Vegas Grand Prix. Inspired by the glittering lights and colours of the Las Vegas strip that hosts the circuit, the one-off Black Bay Ceramic a speckled, graduated green-blue dial paired with a matching strap. Initial thoughts Since the announcement of the partnership between Tudor and the VCARB Formula 1 Team, the watchmaker has already unveiled several VCARB editions. The Las Vegas and Miami race editions are more striking and unusual, but unfortunately only issued to the team drivers for the race. Regular folk will have to make do with the Black Bay Ceramic VCARB that’s available in stores and good value, but not quite as unique. While it might seem that that special editions from Tudor are many, the brand’s collaborative watches mirrors the approach taken by Rolex decades ago, when the Geneva giant made watches for various professionals. Besides VCARB, Tudor has made watches for French navy aviators, the Alinghi America’s Cup team, and reputedly the US Navy’s elite SEALs. The colours of the Strip The dial and strap feature a green-blue finish modelled by the VCARB livery for the Las Vegas Grand Prix, which is in turn inspired by the reflected lights of the Las Vegas Strip. As...
Worn & Wound
Photographer Atom Moore Debuts “Second Nature”
Taking photos of watches is hard. I’ve been trying for months to get better at it, and only occasionally do I end up with a photo that I think “works” in any meaningful way. The degree of difficulty in shooting these little objects is kind of off the charts. They are, of course, reflection machines, with light bouncing off of cases and crystals in ways that, for an amateur, can be difficult to control. And as any watch lover knows, the magic of this stuff is in the details, and it just takes a lot of skill to capture things that are so vanishingly small. So, I have a lot of respect and admiration for my colleagues and peers who make something so difficult look relatively straightforward. Atom Moore, for as long as I’ve been in the hobby, has been near the top of my and many other’s lists of top watch photographers in the game. His approach is completely unlike any other watch photographer I’m aware of, and the results, as they say, speak for themselves. Atom, by now, has dedicated his career almost exclusively to watches. He’s been at it since 2015, and has worked with brands like Grand Seiko, Autodromo, and J.N. Shapiro. While some of his work with brands is what many of us in the industry would call “product photography,” it tends to be executed at a higher level. His photos for J.N. Shapiro’s Resurgence launch are a great example – the crisp macros reveal all of the detail you’d hope to see in Shapiro’s immaculately finished cases, dials, and...
Video
F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain / WHY IS ENTRY LEVEL JOURNE SO EXPENSIVE?!?!! $$$
Hodinkee
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Limited Edition
A tribute to British motorsport livery.
Teddy Baldassarre
Hands-On: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm
When it comes down to my personal watch tastes, I would not self-identify as a quiet luxury enthusiast. Nor would I claim to be a minimalist, even if we’re talking about the luxury variety. More often, my preferences lean towards the quirky and colorful, and I have been known to be a lover of things many might consider “junky,” “kitsch,” or even “tacky” at times. No matter how long I’m in “The Biz,” I don’t think I will ever be able to shake my enthusiasm for thrift-store gems or my habit of scouring eBay for hidden deals at strange hours of the night. However, if I were to have any hard-and-fast rule when it comes to Close Encounters With Watchkind, it would be always to leave ample room to be surprised. During my alone time with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm, I will admit that I found myself surprised - and might even be so bold as to say pleasantly surprised. For context’s sake, Parmigiani Fleurier is a relatively young brand in the world of watches. Founded in 1996, Parmigiani Fleurier is the brainchild of Michel Parmigiani – a Swiss-born watch restorer and architecture enthusiast who cut his horological teeth during the peak of the quartz crisis, in which he turned his focus to preserving and reviving antique pieces at his own workshop, Mesure et Art du Temps. Despite the maison’s intimate knowledge of horological history, in the current revival-heavy landscape of modern watchmaking, a quick look at Parmigiani F...
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: The ‘Lumendorff’ A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen with Unique Custom-Fitted Platinum Bracelet
A few ago, GaryG wrote about one collector’s obsession with the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen and the platinum Lange bracelet made by Wellendorff, and wanting to combine the two. The result was spectacular, and now he brings us another view of it told through his own photographs.
SJX Watches
Breitling Debuts First In-House Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Breitling marks its 140th anniversary with a new calibre, the B19. Based on its longstanding B01, the B19 adds a perpetual calendar on top to create the most complicated in-house calibre in the brand’s stable. The B19 is making its debut in three different models, all clad in 140th anniversary livery: the Premier B19 Datora 42, Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar, and Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar. Initial thoughts One of the most sophisticated chronograph constructions in the mid range of the price spectrum, the B01 gains a worthy upgrade with the perpetual calendar. Granted the additional complication adds substantial height to the case – all of the three models are well over 15 mm high – but that’s acceptable for a self-winding chronograph with perpetual calendar. Interestingly, the B01 base movement of the B19 has been upgraded over the standard version with some improvements (no doubt courtesy of Kenissi, which bought the rights to the B01 construction), though it’s uncertain if these will make their way into the plain B01. Though all three are identical mechanically, they look and feel different. The Super Chronomat is super chunky and the largest of the three, while the Navitimer and Datora are slightly more compact and definitely more retro in terms of style. The old-school, four-register calendar layout arguably suits the vintage-inspired style better. All three retail for US$59,000, which is par for the course for this double com...
Monochrome
First Look – The Bulgari Aluminium GMT x Fender Limited Edition
Bulgari’s novelties for Geneva Watch Days are grouped around the theme of sound. Among the more classical notes of its new chiming watches, Bulgari is also introducing a special version of its Aluminium GMT inspired by the famous Stratocaster guitar made by Fender in 1954. Donning the livery of the original Stratocaster, the new Bulgari […]
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