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Stories: A Legendary Iranian Pilot and His Rolex GMT-Master SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master Gunshots ring out Jul 19, 2021

Stories: A Legendary Iranian Pilot and His Rolex GMT-Master

Gunshots ring out with an unnerving cadence, and the chants of angry crowds ring across the city. It is Sunday, February 11, 1979. Come Monday morning, the country’s biggest newspaper hits newsstands with the front page proclaiming: “The Regime Has Disintegrated”. The provisional government collapsed the day before, with the military having returned to its barracks – leaving the Islamic Revolution triumphant. All day long that Monday, a young man ignores the revolutionary chaos as best he can, dedicating himself to picking up the phone every hour and dialling his father’s office at air force headquarters within Doshan Tappeh Air Base in Tehran. Each time his father answers and calmly reassures the son all is well. For a few months now, the son has tried to talk his father into leaving the country. The Shah had already fled and tensions were rising. But each time his old man responded in the same manner, “I am a soldier of this land and my duty calls me to stay.” Not only did the father remain in the country, he dutifully turned up to work every day. Nader Jahanbani (right) with Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran, in the early 1970s; Nader has his GMT-Master on his wrist On that fateful Monday, the son calls at six in the evening and hears his father’s voice. He calls again at seven and his father picks up the phone. An hour later, he dials the number once again and listens to the phone ringing. No one answers. He tries again a few minutes later ...

The new Linde Werdelin Nord collection delivers hardcore tool watches loaded with arctic cool Time+Tide
Casio n Jul 9, 2021

The new Linde Werdelin Nord collection delivers hardcore tool watches loaded with arctic cool

Note: This is a rather momentous occasion for me as a writer and Independents Editor for Time+Tide.  July 10 is my one-year anniversary for the site with 294 stories to my name, a number that boggles my mind (and that of my very, very patient and beautiful wife). It has been a crazy, loving ride … ContinuedThe post The new Linde Werdelin Nord collection delivers hardcore tool watches loaded with arctic cool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Wiz Khalifa vs Mia Khalifa, Seiko Spring Drive, and the launch of the first Tudor Boutique in Australia Time+Tide
Tudor Boutique Jul 8, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Wiz Khalifa vs Mia Khalifa, Seiko Spring Drive, and the launch of the first Tudor Boutique in Australia

Who is your pick: Roger, Mandy, Dudley or Julianne? I’m asking, of course, about who is your favourite celebrity with the surname “Moore” (Roger is the correct answer, of course). But this idle pub game received a horological twist in the Time+Tide office this week, when the team spotted two well-known and entirely unrelated personalities … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Wiz Khalifa vs Mia Khalifa, Seiko Spring Drive, and the launch of the first Tudor Boutique in Australia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Only Watch 2021: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon

An inventive watchmaker based in Russia, Konstantin Chaykin has combined two of his most notable timepieces to create a unique wristwatch for Only Watch 2021. Bearing a face that resembles his signature Joker, the Martian Tourbillon tells the time on Mars, just like the Mars Conquerer he debuted last year. More intriguingly, the watch is equipped with a tourbillon regulator that makes one revolution every Martian minute – or 61.65 seconds. Initial thoughts Konstantin never fails to impress with his unorthodox approach to watchmaking. The Martian Tourbillon lives up to that reputation. It is quirky, odd, and thoroughly interesting. Given that it indicates time on Mars, its utility here on Earth will be limited, but the Martian Tourbillon encapsulates Konstantin’s versatile and comprehensive approach to a unique timepiece for Only Watch (which was very much the case for his 2019 creation). The Martian Tourbillon even incorporates a literal Martian tourbillon regulator, while having a case made of medieval Russian steel. The only images available of the watch for now are renderings, but I very much look forward to seeing this in person. Martian face The face of the watch indicates the hours on the left sub-dial, while minutes are within the right sub-dial. Just below the “nose” is a half-month indicator for the Darian calendar, invented by aerospace engineer Thomas Gangale for future human colonisers of the Red Planet. And the “smile” indicates sols, or Martian...

5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now Time+Tide
Chopard Jun 26, 2021

5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now

“Environmentally friendly” isn’t a phrase that immediately comes to mind when you think of the watch industry. Craftsmanship, passion and heritage might be more likely answers in a word association game with your psychologist. But that doesn’t mean that there aren’t parts of the industry that are genuinely doing their bit. Chopard is well-known for … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franck Muller Introduces the Skafander Tonneau Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille models But it was Jun 18, 2021

Franck Muller Introduces the Skafander Tonneau Diver’s Watch

Introduced in 2018 but put on hold until recently, the Skafander adapts Franck Muller’s trademark tonneau watch case for a dive watch. Getting its name from “scaphander”, an archaic term for a diving suit, the Skafander has been facelifted just as it reaches stores in both stainless steel or titanium. Initial thoughts Brash and bold watch, the Skafander is much typical of Franck Muller’s current style. At first glance, the design might seem derivative, bringing to mind the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang, and of course various Richard Mille models. But it was Franck Muller that made the tonneau case a thing in contemporary watchmaking with the Cintree Curvex – Cartier, on the other hand, invented the shape in 1906 – so the brand has every right to the shape. In fact, the Cintree Curvex was one of the “it” watches of the 1990s, so successful it arguably inspired all tonneau watches in 21st century watchmaking. Complicated and mechanical in style, the Skafander has a partially open-worked dial, which doesn’t help legibility, but it’s very much the style for modern sport watches. The Skafander manages to set itself apart amongst watches in this genre, by way of its case shape and inner rotating bezel. And priced at about US$15,000 (or 23,800 Singapore dollars), it’s relatively pricey, but on par with comparable dive watches from Hublot. The Skafander in brushed titanium Tonneau case, round bezel The Skafander’s key feature results from matching a rotatin...

In-Depth: The Digital Icons – Lange Zeitwerk, F.P. Journe Vagabondage, and Harry Winston Opus 3 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Vagabondage Jun 7, 2021

In-Depth: The Digital Icons – Lange Zeitwerk, F.P. Journe Vagabondage, and Harry Winston Opus 3

Digital time displays might seem like a modern invention but they have been found in watches since the early 1800s. Digital displays are found in clocks from even farther back – Lange’s trademark oversized date was inspired by the five-minute, digital clock built by Ferdinand-Adolph Lange for Dresden’s Semper opera house that opened in 1841. But the biggest advances in mechanical digital time displays – with jumping indications – all arrived soon after the turn of the millennium. And the most important are just three – the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, F.P. Journe Vagabondage III, and Harry Winston Opus 3 – and now we’re going to put them side by side. The five-minute clock that sits just above the stage in the Semperoper, showing 07:30 pm. Photo – A. Lange & Söhne An new, old idea Watches with a single digital display, namely a jumping hours, date as far back as the early 19th century. Enough of them were made that such pocket watches appear regularly at auction. But a single digital display does not a digital watch make. The watch with a jumping, double-digital time display – and hence a true digital watch – was invented in 1883 when Austrian engineer Josef Pallweber patented a mechanism that indicated the time with discs, read through two windows, one for the hours and other, the minutes. He licensed the patent to a handful of watch brands, though it is IWC that is most closely associated with the Pallweber display. At the same time, it is importa...

Vintage Watch Snobbery – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe had ever created – Jun 6, 2021

Vintage Watch Snobbery – Reprise

Standing before What Makes Me Tick's eyes was the most perfect of God’s creatures, a wonderful mix of Audrey Hepburn and Penelope Cruz. He thought his heart had skipped a beat, and he heard the chimes of every single minute repeater Patek Philippe had ever created – all chiming at exactly the same time! Six months later the gentle creature and he were married. This extraordinary story reflects the marvelous world of vintage watches: finding the rare bird, linking it to a story, and never letting it go.

Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!) Time+Tide
Jun 3, 2021

Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!)

Editor’s note: As part of his ongoing column, David thumbs his nose at high horology to rummage through the bargain bin and unearth some mind-boggling bang for your buckaroos. While it may sound like a ski run in the Alps, the Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is actually a rather handsome timepiece with a distinct Bauhaus aesthetic and … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH founder Bernard Arnault declared world’s richest man (but what watch does he wear?) Time+Tide
Jun 2, 2021

LVMH founder Bernard Arnault declared world’s richest man (but what watch does he wear?)

If you were to guess who the world’s richest men were, your mind would probably wander to tech CEOs and Russian oligarchs, all of which would be reasonable assumptions. This month, however, the tides of wealth have changed with LVMH founder, CEO, and executive chairman Bernard Arnault rising to No.1 on the rich list. Edging … ContinuedThe post LVMH founder Bernard Arnault declared world’s richest man (but what watch does he wear?) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 are “go-anywhere, do anything” watches Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGN019 May 12, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 are “go-anywhere, do anything” watches

Grand Seiko are loved for lots of different reasons from the Spring Drive movement to Zaratsu polishing and the impressive value that they offer collectors and enthusiasts. They are also the brand that comes to mind when you think of quality quartz watchmaking and this year Grand Seiko are celebrating the 140th anniversary of the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 are “go-anywhere, do anything” watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches… Time+Tide
May 8, 2021

What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches…

“Batshit crazy”, it turns out, is a phrase that means different things to different people. To me in a watch context, it means technical craziness. Lots of complications. Unnecessary but deeply impressive flexing of watchmaker muscle. To Wei it’s a state of mind. What watch would you be batshit crazy to wear on the mean … ContinuedThe post What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tasting Some Of The Sensational Latest Releases Of Australian Superstar Winery Henschke Quill & Pad
May 4, 2021

Tasting Some Of The Sensational Latest Releases Of Australian Superstar Winery Henschke

One of the problems with having an iconic wine among your offerings is that other, equally worthy wines are often overlooked or diminished in the eyes of wine lovers. But such is life. With its latest releases, Australian superstar winery Henschke has moved to align the vintages of several of its top wines, all Shiraz: Wheelwright, Mount Edelstone, Hill of Roses, and the legendary Hill of Grace. Ken Gargett tastes.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 27, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque

Appropriately for the 90th anniversary of famed reversible wristwatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has debuted the ultimate Reverso. Boasting 11 complications, including a tourbillon, minute repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is a monumental wristwatch with four faces and a movement made up of 800 parts. Initial thoughts The Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is smaller than the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque – which was so big as to be almost unwearable for most – but still sizeable enough to be clunky. It measures 51.2 mm by 31 mm, while standing 15.15 mm high, making it larger than the biggish Nonantième that was launched at the same time. Granted, the size is necessary for the ultra-complex, four-faced movement. Majority of the complications within the new grand complication can be found in past JLC watches, making the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque something of a greatest-hits compilation for the brand. Impressive as it is, the Calibre 185 feels dated, in the sense that watches with numerous complications stacked up were a “thing” in the 2000s; the Triptyque was launched in 2007 and truly exotic in its day. Now that such watches are fairly common, with many leading brands having their own grand multi-complications, the concept is less impressive, regardless of the technical achievement. It’s also worth pointing out that the watch is elaborately decorated – mainly with Clous de Paris guilloche ...

And the award for the wildest watch combo of the Oscars goes to… Time+Tide
Casio n during Apr 26, 2021

And the award for the wildest watch combo of the Oscars goes to…

The 93rd Academy Awards, a.k.a The Oscars, resiliently aired this week, managing to create some semblance of what we love about the occasion during the trying times of the pandemic. With social distancing and other safety procedures in mind, the ceremony was held in Union Station in Los Angeles – where only the nominees were … ContinuedThe post And the award for the wildest watch combo of the Oscars goes to… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch celebrates Aboriginal culture with Nations of Australia Watch Time+Tide
Swatch Apr 21, 2021

Swatch celebrates Aboriginal culture with Nations of Australia Watch

There are approximately 500 different First Nations Peoples in Australia, each with its own rich history, language, customs and artistic tradition. This is a mind-boggling fact little known or appreciated outside of Australia. Indeed, the cultural heritage of Australia’s Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Peoples is one of the oldest in the world, stretching unbroken … ContinuedThe post Swatch celebrates Aboriginal culture with Nations of Australia Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 watches spotted at our first Sydney Club Event in what felt like decades! Time+Tide
Apr 15, 2021

5 watches spotted at our first Sydney Club Event in what felt like decades!

What before COVID was a regular, and totally normal, occurrence – meeting up at a bar with friends to drink gin and talk watches – is, in 2021, wildly exotic. And the Time+Tide team enjoyed every minute of it, when we congregated with a group of Time+Tide Club members at Eileen’s Bar in Surry Hills … ContinuedThe post 5 watches spotted at our first Sydney Club Event in what felt like decades! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Apr 13, 2021

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

Having notched up records for the thinnest watch in several categories – including tourbillon, chronograph as well as minute repeater – Bulgari is continuing with the perpetual calendar. The Italian jeweller now claims another record for thinness – its seventh – with the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. Taking the mantle from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, the new Octo perpetual calendar is just 5.8 mm in its entirety – with a movement only 2.75 mm high. It’ll be offered in the traditional livery of the Octo Finissimo of sandblasted titanium, but unusually also in platinum with an alligator strap. Platinum (left), and titanium Initial thoughts There’s no doubt that Bulgari is perhaps the best at ultra-thin watches – its titles for the thinnest watch in seven categories are testament to that. Yet the brand doesn’t simply rely on its record-setting thinness as a gimmick. Most of its ultra-thin watches are interesting beyond the slimness. The Octo design in its own right is striking. And the perpetual calendar has been executed in a symmetrical, sensible manner. Though the dial is somewhat crowded, it remains legible thanks to the large sub-dials and minimalist aesthetic. It’s a well-designed watch and perhaps the most stylish perpetual calendar on the market. The calendar includes a retrograde date in an arc on the upper half of the dial, with the day and month just below, and the leap year in a tiny display at the base Be...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage Time+Tide
Sinn Apr 11, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage

Cool, icy cool. That’s what we have here, in a watch that brings to mind the German form over function we know from Sinn. With an air of indestructability, the Vero Open Water is a watch in which I can see no trace of vintage, or even the slightest trace of retro homage. And this … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what a sports watch costing over $500k can really do Time+Tide
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what Apr 6, 2021

The Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what a sports watch costing over $500k can really do

The beautifully convex shape and mind-boggling complexity of the Greubel Forsey GMT Sport is one of the most extreme examples of a sports watch you’re likely to see. While undoubtedly tough, this is a creation from the atelier that questions the very existence of the luxury sports watch genre. After all, is anyone truly likely … ContinuedThe post The Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what a sports watch costing over $500k can really do appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Personal Wristwatch Of Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti: Made By Mido And Now Up For Auction Quill & Pad
Mido Apr 5, 2021

Personal Wristwatch Of Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti: Made By Mido And Now Up For Auction

Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti was a fanatic for details with the mind of a sculptor. His visions on four wheels still grace the most elite concours d’elegance around the world. And his personal Mido watch on a bespoke gold bracelet is set to be auctioned by Stanislas Machoïr on Saturday April 17, 2021. Martin Green shares a few more details about this priceless artifact here.

Formula 1 season preview – the teams and watch brands partnering up for 2021 Time+Tide
Rolex hands ticking into position Mar 25, 2021

Formula 1 season preview – the teams and watch brands partnering up for 2021

As the anticipation rises and the desert air shakes from F1 engines firing up, before the five lights go out at the 2021 season-opening Bahrain Grand Prix, we will see the Rolex hands ticking into position, ready to start racing. Time+Tide will, of course, have watches on the mind. Any sport associated with speed and … ContinuedThe post Formula 1 season preview – the teams and watch brands partnering up for 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Curated Vintage Vacheron Constantin with Les Collectionneurs SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mar 23, 2021

Curated Vintage Vacheron Constantin with Les Collectionneurs

Traditionally considered one of the “holy trinity” in haute horlogerie, Vacheron Constantin vast, rich archive of historical timepieces. For several years now, Vacheron Constantin has carefully mined that history, curating a compact collection of vintage watches each year for Les Collectionneurs, restored vintage watches offered at its boutiques. Les Collectionneurs includes Vacheron Constantin timepieces from the last century that span the brand’s repertoire, from the mega-rare complicated references to more affordable time-only watches – all sympathetically restored and backed by a two-year warranty. A selection of Les Collectionneurs watches are on usually show at a handful of boutiques around the world, and a 16-piece line up recently landed in Singapore. From now till March 31, 2021, the watches will be available at the Vacheron Constantin boutique in Marina Bay Sands, alongside Diptyques, an exhibition exploring the brand’s historical watches created in collaborations with other artists, jewellers, and designers (which are drawn from the brand’s museum and not for sale). Here’s a look at highlights from the Les Collectionneurs line up in Singapore. Ref. 4414 “Heure Universelle” pocket watch Completed in 1949, this yellow gold pocket watch is equipped with the world time mechanism invented by Louis Cottier. Unlike a GMT watch that tells the time in a second location, a world time use a simple but clever pair trick to show the time in all 24 time zo...