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Monochrome
A category defined during the 1970s by a handful of models that all became proper icons of the industry – AP Royal Oak, PP Nautilus, VC 222, IWC Ingenieur, GP Laureato, to name a few – the luxury sports watch or integrated bracelet trend made a strong comeback about 10 years ago. Not only did […]
Hodinkee
Here's the thing. The 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection was going to sell no matter what caliber was used, what case material was chosen, or what format was given. This is just a reality of the strength of Patek Philippe in the world today, and how in-demand integrated bracelet watches are. And to be clear, the Nautilus, along with the Royal Oak, set the tone long ago and remains at the pinnacle of the category. Actually, one would say the Nautilus remains at the pinnacle of *watches* in general when it comes to simple demand. It's the one that the most powerful people I know lust after the most – and I'm not saying that's good or bad, but it really just is. And here's the thing: the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus was a bit of a let-down for me. Because the Nautilus really is *the watch* for so many of us, and indeed, I am a true fan and always have been, and indeed, always will be, no matter how many dinguses I see wearing them today. 3700G Circa 1980, 5711R Circa 2015, 5811G Circa 2024 – Yes, I like the Nautilus a lot. As many of you know, the very first Patek Philippe I ever purchased was a 3940G. The very second? A Nautilus reference 3700A (I paid $18,000 for it, in a group buy with Paul Boutros, who bought a 222 for even less 😵💫). Some years later, I bought a very rare 3700G (I sold it to a close friend and mentor when he sold his company because it was something he'd always dreamed of owning). In 2015, when Nautiluses were still sitting in cases,...
Monochrome
Every brand at one point dreamt of having an icon on their hands. A cornerstone model that stands the test of time, design trends, and, more importantly, captures the hearts of fans and collectors worldwide, indefinitely. Watches like the Lange 1, the Submariner, the Nautilus, the Speedmaster or the Royal Oak. For Nomos, even though […]
Worn & Wound
I have what you might call a love/hate relationship with Audemars Piguet. They are, without a doubt, makers of some of the finest watches in the world. Objectively speaking, there’s a level of craft involved with the production of AP watches that is hard to match at the scale at which they operate. Every Royal Oak I’ve ever handled feels like a perfectly made thing without any compromises. I honestly can’t say the same about equivalent watches from other brands in the so-called Holy Trinity. And yet, there’s so much baggage with Audemars Piguet in our current watch culture. I wrote about it here, specifically as it relates to the Royal Oak and how it has become a signifier of wealth and status that has overshadowed watchmaking and watch culture. I find this flex culture to be a huge turn off, and the way AP seems to lean into it, by producing more and more varieties of Royal Oak, some with mini sculptures of Marvel characters on the dial, to be a signal that they’re a willing participant in the watering down of their brand. But then Audemars Piguet will go ahead and release something beautiful that is not a Royal Oak and I’m reminded that derisively referring to them as The Royal Oak Company (something I’ve done frequently over these last few years) is ultimately unfair. Earlier this week, as part of a larger drop that included several exotic Royal Oaks, a pocket watch, and more, AP launched what might be one of the riskier watches they’ve introduced in...
Monochrome
With 3 of its 4 main collections based on the original Royal Oak design, it’s fair to say that Audemars Piguet is a bit conservative in some aspects. But, from time to time, and not without great boldness, the brand releases something unexpected and not octagonally designed. As the best example of what AP can […]
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Four days in London flew by, and the watch spotting was absolutely unbelievable!
Teddy Baldassarre
Luxury Sport watches are probably one of the most popular categories out there with no shortage of excellent options from the most mainstream to the most niche independent watch brands. While names like the Rolex Submariner and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are seen as the staple watches in this category to aspire to, we asked our editorial team here to share their personal picks in this admittedly crowded category. So without further ado, let's take a look at our favorite luxury sport watches. Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date There are dive watches that you wear to go diving and there are dive watches that you wear - well, maybe afterward, to the country club where you go to talk about diving. The Glashütte Original SeaQ is a prime example of a watch that can actually fill both roles. While it was established relatively recently, in 1994, Germany’s Glashütte Original can trace its lineage as far back as 1845, which also happens to be the year that watchmaking essentially arrived as an industry in Germany. As I cover in much greater detail in this article, a full century of horological tradition, centered in the town of Glashütte in the state of Saxony, came to an end with Germany’s defeat in World War II. It was replaced by a new era in which a state-owned conglomerate of once-independent heritage watch manufacturers, the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe or GUB, shifted focus from artisanal techniques and luxuriously decorative timepieces to mass-produced tool watch...
SJX Watches
On Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon shares insights picked up at Citizen’s Super Titanium event in Paris, where he had the opportunity to speak with the brand’s materials engineer. Still on the theme of titanium, SJX shares his views on the new Cartier Santos in the lightweight metal, and the different strategies of these brands which are playing to their respective strengths. Another big story from this week is the launch of the new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825. Though it’s not made of titanium, it’s a strong third act (and a hint of what’s next) for the brand. Is there still white space in the market for highly finished time-only watches? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Monochrome
This year marks Zenith’s 160th anniversary, which has already been celebrated with the launch of several blue-themed watches. With this specific collection, the brand is in for an encore of its best watches or movements, including the return of the legendary calibre 135. The story continues today with two very limited Defy Zero G models […]
Monochrome
Once the domain of high-end brands, the integrated sports watch genre is on fire and the market is flooded with thousands of models, ranging from downright affordable ones, such as Tissot’s PRX, all the way up to AP’s Royal Oak, and everything in between. A somewhat unexpected move, the latest player to take the plunge […]
Worn & Wound
Let’s orient ourselves in the watch world five decades ago. The year is 1975, and we are in the height of the quartz crisis. Just six years prior in 1969, the watchmaking landscape forever changed with Seiko’s introduction of the first quartz timepiece, which called into question the future of mechanical timekeeping as we knew it. The era also marked the advent of the luxury sport watch, beginning with Gerald Genta’s Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet between 1970 and 1972. These two pivotal moments in horological history gave birth to an icon: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. The first Laureato entered Girard-Perregaux’s catalog in 1975. The model was modestly sized by today’s standards and was even rather mid-sized for the era with a case measuring just 36mm (by comparison, the first Royal Oak began to set the tone for more oversized watches clocking in at 39mm, but was considered notably large and given the nickname “Jumbo”). The 1975 Laureato featured a two-tone construction, highlighting its mix of curves and geometric shapes. The design echoed Genta’s but with softer edges and a slightly more elevated look thanks to the addition of yellow gold elements combined with stainless steel. In line with the times, the model housed a quartz caliber, but not just any quartz caliber – it was COSC-certified. “The Laureato was more than just a new model for Girard-Perregaux’s catalog,” confirms Beatrice Morelli, Chief Customer Experience Officer. “It represente...
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They're out now! Join me and Kai was we talk about the latest releases from Rolex 🔥
SJX Watches
On episode 12 of the SJX Podcast, SJX shares his hands-on impressions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5, the fifth and final watch from the brand’s R&D; skunkworks. We also address listener questions about the (great) leadership at Vacheron Constantin, and whether brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin can gain market share from independents – why not? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Worn & Wound
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic first debuted at Baselworld 2017, and I remember every journalist I ran into, telling me to go check out the Bulgari booth. I met with Pascal Brandt (then marketing manager), and a genuine watch geek I had known for some time. He showed me Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium, and it was a “Wow” moment. I felt like I was holding a future classic in my hands, comparable to someone holding the Royal Oak for the first time in Basel in 1972 (and yes, there is a Genta connection). I had a couple of initial thoughts when I first experienced the Octo – I knew Bulgari had already made two of the slimmest complication Octo Finissimo’s in 2015 and 2016, but I chalked that to a fashion brand making a high complication for their wealthiest clients. But this was different, Bulgari managed to pull off the slimmest automatic watch that is lightweight, yet durable, with a micro-rotor movement for about $12,000. The second thought was that this is something special and, for me, a must own piece. Before I get into the ownership aspect of the Octo, I will give a brief history on how Bulgari got elevated to a serious watchmaking brand. The story of Bulgari’s transformation from a luxury fashion brand to a high-end watchmaker began in the year 2000. The watch industry was struggling after the late 1990’s financial crisis. In July 2000, Bulgari paid 37.6 million Swiss francs to acquire Gerald Genta SA, Daniel Roth SA, as well as Manufacture de Ha...
Worn & Wound
The watch community woke up to a flurry of announcements related to Watches & Wonders 2026 this morning, which is (gulp) just about 6 months away. The news includes the addition of multiple brands, including one major and longstanding holdout, as well as others moving to higher profile locations in Palexpo. The big news is that Audemars Piguet, makers of the Royal Oak and a member of the so-called “Holy Trinity” of old school Swiss Maisons, will finally be exhibiting at Watches & Wonders. Audemars Piguet had previously been one of the main draws at SIHH, a predecessor of Watches & Wonders, also held at the Palexpo, so the brand is no stranger to the convention center’s cavernous halls. In a press release, CEO Ilaria Resta explains “Watches and Wonders is more than an exhibition – it is a space for meaningful exchange with our peers and a celebration of our shared heritage and craftsmanship. We look forward to welcoming visitors to Audemars Piguet’s world as we shape the future of watchmaking together.” Audemars Piguet is not the only brand being added to the Watches & Wonders roster. Ten additional brands have been announced as participants as of this morning. Joining AP at the show for the first time are Behrens, Bianchet, B.R.M Chronographes, Charles Girardier, Corum, Credor, Favre Leuba, l’Epée 1839, March LA.B and Sinn. This lineup is quite varied, with everything from elaborate mechanical clocks, to more accessible tool watches represented, and brands...
Monochrome
The worthy successor of the 222 model (which is still made by the brand as part of the Historiques Collection), the Overseas has been Vacheron Constantin‘s vision of the luxury sports watch, a model made to compete with the two other icons of the genre, the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. The current Overseas, which […]
Monochrome
Copies of popular products are inevitable. Many cars look alike, many drinks taste the same, and Apple and Android steal from each other every year. There are Submariner wannabes and Royal Oak rip-offs – it’s just how the world works. That said, who doesn’t like a good “Weird Al” Yankovic version of a hit song? […]
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Fratello
It is no secret to regular readers that I like the Zenith Defy line of watches. These are some of the very few integrated-bracelet sports watches with a clear identity. They do not take the design-first approach of, say, a Royal Oak, nor do they strive for elegance like a Laureato. Zenith, instead, pushes into […] Visit In Between Sizes? Spending Time With The Zenith Defy Skyline 36 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Emerging from the shadow of icons like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Brown Ceramic stands to be a future classic, Zach argues.The post The Louis Vuitton Tambour Brown Ceramic is going to be a future classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
When it comes to 1970s-inspired elegant sports watches, those equipped with a shaped case and an integrated bracelet, most people tend to look back at 1972 and the Royal Oak, before quickly jumping to 1976 with the Nautilus and the Ingenieur, and then 1977 with the 222. Yet, we have to keep in mind that […]
Monochrome
Last year, to celebrate its 50th anniversary, Credor – the high-end, most classical brand owned by the Seiko Corporation – unveiled a very special watch based on the Locomotive concept and being a faithful recreation of Gérald Genta‘s original 1978 sketch. While Genta is best known for designing the iconic Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur, […]
Fratello
It predates the Nautilus, Ingenieur, and Overseas and debuted three years after the Royal Oak. So why is the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, a very relevant 1970s timepiece, not on the same appreciation level as the other luxurious sports watches with an integrated bracelet? It’s not just the Genta name missing because the 222, the predecessor of […] Visit Hands-On With An Unsung And Humble Hero - The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm In Steel to read the full article.
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Welcome to the watch releases update for the second week of April 2026 and the beginning of Watches and Wonders 2026. We have some awesome new watches from Sinn, Tissot, Hamilton, Universal Genève and more. Enjoy the...
Monochrome
Gérald Genta (1931-2011), the watch designer, is one of the most celebrated names in the industry associated with timeless icons like the Nautilus and the Royal Oak. Gérald Genta also created his own brand in 1969, a hotbed of wild creativity and high-end complications. Having languished for some time after its acquisition by Bulgari, ears […]
Monochrome
First presented for the 222nd anniversary of the venerable watchmaker Vacheron Constantin, the 222 was the brand’s answer to the then-growing demand for luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets. The third member of the iconic Holy Trinity of luxury sports watches, next to the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, all three sharing the same base […]
Fratello
We often hear statements like, “This watch is a true classic,” or “This is a timeless design.” Typically, such statements refer to big names in the watch industry, such as Rolex and the Submariner, Omega and the Speedmaster, or Audemars Piguet and the Royal Oak. That’s either because their designs are simple and indeed timeless […] Visit The Dirty Dozen Watches As Interpreted By Half A Dozen Affordable Microbrands to read the full article.
Monochrome
Watches with an integrated design, elegant sports watches, luxury sports watches… Call them what you want, but we’re talking about one thing precisely: watches that play on the vibe created by the AP Royal Oak in 1972, watches with integrated bracelets and a combination of sporty elements and elegance. We’re all well aware that the […]
Fratello
What do you do when you, as the owner of a watch company, have a thing for square watches? That’s correct: you create a square watch. That, in a nutshell, is the origin story behind the Patek Philippe Cubitus. The launch of the first all-new product line in 25 years was a significant moment not […] Visit Behind The Patek Philippe Cubitus to read the full article.
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It’s been just roughly six months since Casio released the Edifice EFK-100, which received widespread critical acclaim as the brand’s first line of mechanical watches. As you will understand, then, we were quite s...
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