Hodinkee
Introducing: The Yema x seconde/seconde/ Yachtingraff
A French tool watch legend, the 1968 Yachtingraf Croisière, gets tagged and gains an f in a collaboration with master watch customizer Romaric André.
Results for DLC and PVD Coating
29,588 articles · 1,835 videos found · page 481 of 1048
Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Overseas: The Essential Guide
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas has been a major pillar of the Swiss maison’s collection since its high-profile revamp in 2016, but its roots stretch back much further, drawing elements of its distinctive design from the mechanical-watch revival of the late 1990s, the embryonic sport-luxury era of the 1970s, and even as far back as 1880, the origin of Vacheron’s Maltese Cross emblem. One of the oldest continuously operating watch manufacturers on the planet, Vacheron Constantin laid its foundation in 1755, more than a decade before the United States, eventually one of its most important markets, was even a country. Established as a watchmaking workshop by 24-year-old watchmaker Jean-Marc Vacheron, the company took on its current name when the founder’s grandson, Jacques-Barthemi Vacheron, partnered with businessman Francois Constantin. Over its first two centuries-plus in existence, Vacheron Constantin gained renown as an innovator of horological complications and a pioneer in design, as well as a watchmaker to royalty, including Egypt’s King Fuad I, who famously commissioned one of the world’s most complicated pocket watches (and also, for a time, the most expensive watch in the world sold at auction). The OG of Overseas: Vacheron Constantin 222 Historiques Revival 222 in gold In 1977, Vacheron Constantin commemorated its 220th anniversary of watchmaking with a boldly different and now highly collectible timepiece that helped lay the foundation for what we ...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Laventure Marine Type 3 is a Proper Tool Watch
Founded in 2017, Laventure is the project of a man named Clément Gaud. Despite achieving a degree of fame over the years, it is still a one-man show. Focused on genuine Swiss-made watches with an undeniable vintage flair and made for adventure (hence the name), Laventure has produced several watches under the Marine and Sous-Marine […]
Worn & Wound
Owner’s Review: the Second Hour Mandala Mk3
If you were to ask any of my coworkers or friends about my style when it comes to watches, the words “tactical,” “diver,” and “tool” would likely come to mind. It’s no secret that I have an affinity for watches with more utility than just telling time, and a good clicky bezel might be my favorite fidget toy of all time. As someone who has had a preference for black and olive drab colors for years, when I dove into watches, it seemed like black and sometimes blue were the only colors available, especially at the price range I considered spending on a watch. That said, as I’ve learned more about watches and discovered some interesting microbrands making bold and adventurous divers, I also realized that if I wanted something more colorful, I’d have a lot of options if I expanded my reach to non-diver sports watches. With the growing number of stealthy items in my collection, I’ve wanted to add something to my collection that you might describe as “flashy” to balance things out a bit. Working to break this mold that I’ve created for myself, I wound up coming across the Mandala Mk3 by Second Hour Watches, and thought that it might make an interesting addition to my collection of tactical and tool focused pieces. In fact, when I wore this watch home from the office for the first time, my girlfriend immediately remarked, “That isn’t a watch I’d expect you to wear, but I like it,” and that’s exactly the reaction I was hoping for. Before I dive i...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue
When Serge Michel and Claude Greisler acquired Armin Strom, they took the bull by the horns. Without abandoning Mr Strom’s famous hand-skeletonised movements, the pair developed a full-scale vertical manufacture and successfully addressed the phenomenon of Mirrored Force Resonance in a wristwatch format. Another horological success story was the brand’s Gravity Equal Force watch of […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Beda’a Eclipse II: A Star-Lit Celestial Evolution That’s Happening This Summer
The name might ring a bell, but it’s not what you think. Bedat and Beda’a are not the same. Bedat & Co is a Genevan watch brand “For Women of Character.” Beda’a is a London-based brand with Qatari roots, creating Swiss-made watches. Hader Al Suwaidi started his brand in 2016 to show that the Middle East […] Visit Hands-On With The Beda’a Eclipse II: A Star-Lit Celestial Evolution That’s Happening This Summer to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Omega guns for the ladies’ watch top spot with new 30mm Aqua Terra range
Omega's new itty-bitty Aqua Terra isn't just a case of 'shrinking and pinking', with these models boasting new, impressive calibres.The post Omega guns for the ladies’ watch top spot with new 30mm Aqua Terra range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC955 With A Surprisingly Beautiful Dial
Seiko’s Speedtimer series is the Japanese brand’s chronograph collection that celebrates retro looks with modern technology. The series is part of the Prospex collection and has slowly grown in recent years. It consists of several impressive mechanical chronographs as well as multiple solar-powered models. I have had a chance to go hands-on with several of […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC955 With A Surprisingly Beautiful Dial to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Omega’s Small-But-Mighty Movement in the Aqua Terra 30 mm
Omega’s latest Aqua Terra is a competent women’s watch with a brand-new calibre that is both compact and proficient. Equipped with the new cal. 8750/8751, the Aqua Terra 150M 30 mm launches with a healthy mix of metal variations and dials across 12 models that will surely expand in time. Initial Thoughts Despite scarce coverage in watch media, watches made for, and marketed to women are very important to the industry. And, women have rewarded brands that put in the effort with enormous success. The Lady-Datejust, for instance, is often rumored to be Rolex’s highest volume model. While Omega offered an Aqua Terra 30 mm in the past, the Constellation has arguably the brand’s champion in the segment for the last few years. The new Aqua Terra 30 mm might look similar to its predecessor, but it stands out for the new cal. 8750/8751 that is a Master Chronometer-certified movement. Building a movement that can consistently meet Master Chronometer standards, while being small and thin, is an achievement on its own. All else being equal, larger movements perform better than smaller ones; the difference is significant enough that the ISO 3159 chronometer standard that form the COSC testing standards has less stringent requirements for movements 20 mm and under. Options Omega’s watches are often, and fairly, criticized for being unnecessarily thick, but that isn’t the case here, thanks in part to the new caliber. All steel and two-tone models are 10.6 mm tall (10.7 mm for...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Brew Metric Lite Collection: A Trio Of Tiny Brew Watches
Brew's smallest watch ever packs an automatic movement and the brand's lovable design into a tiny 30mm case.
Worn & Wound
Ressence Collaborates with German Artist Daniel Engelberg on a Pair of Limited Edition Versions of the Type 8
Ressence is one of my favorite independent watch brands for a number of reasons. Chief among them, of course, is the novel time telling system invented by the brand, which is unlike anything else in watchmaking. It’s an example of both mechanical ingenuity and a design triumph, and like others who have had a chance to experience it, I’m continually blown away by the intuitive layout of these watches and the creativity in rethinking something as basic as telling the time. Another reason Ressence has such a strong appeal is that this design language has proven to be incredibly flexible, something we’ve observed over the years as the brand has collaborated with a variety of partners on interesting limited edition projects. The Grail Watch release with Alain Silberstein remains a personal favorite, as does their Dubai Watch Week LE from a few years ago (a new limited edition celebrating the 75th anniversary of Ahmed Seddiqi is also pretty great). A pair of new watches made in collaboration with the artist Daniel Engelberg might just be my favorite Ressence limited edition yet. We got a very quick preview of these watches when we met with Ressence at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, and were immediately taken with their bold color palettes and a design that really leans into the brand’s aesthetic while still being wholly unique works. Engelbert is a German artist and a quick look at his Instagram feed reveals his interest in color and shape, and these dials immediat...
Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Speedmaster Reduced Review
The Omega Speedmaster Reduced was released back in 1988, intended as a smaller and more affordable cousin of the Speedmaster Professional. The Speedmaster Reduced shares most of the same design codes as the Moonwatch but it is undoubtedly one of the more divisive watches out there, especially for those Speedy purists who see it as an imposter that should never have been manufactured. I would imagine that sales were fairly robust, considering how many of these are available on the secondary market and the fact that it was produced from 1988 all the way to 2009. Speedmaster Reduced Case & Bracelet Considering this is called the Speedmaster Reduced, it should be no surprise that the case is indeed smaller than the 42mm Speedmaster Professional (which we did a comprehensive guide to here). Done in stainless steel measuring 39mm wide and 12mm thick with a very compact lug-to-lug height of 45mm compared to the Speedy Pro’s 47.5mm. One of the funny tradeoffs that you get from using an automatic movement instead of a manually wound one is a thicker case, so even with the reduced case size, the 12mm thickness is only about a millimeter slimmer than the Pro. Still, the compact proportions make for an easier wear for those with smaller wrists. The Speedmaster Reduced has 30 meters of water resistance, which is shy of the 50 meters of the Speedy Pro, but I think both require quite a bit of caution with anything more than a splash. The familiar tachymeter bezel is done in aluminum, w...
Monochrome
First Look – The Kneijnsberg Hugenius, Honouring the Legacy of Christiaan Huygens
Dutchman Brendan Horneman, an independent watchmaker and teacher at the Dutch national school for watchmakers, goldsmiths and jewellers in Schoonhoven, is set to relaunch his own brand with a brand new, and highly original watch. The Tree of Life was his first work made for the public, back in 2018, under the name Kneijnsberg & […]
Worn & Wound
Brew Debuts the Metric Lite, a New Version of their Hit Watch in a Vintage Inspired Smaller Size
There’s a good deal of conversation around proper use of the terms “retro” and vintage” in many spaces-automotive, interior design, video games, etc. -and the watch world is no different. Is there a year cutoff? A need for tangible or mechanical connection to a model of the past? Brew, the ever-more-popular New York-based watch brand, shirks all those insecurities and goes straight to the “vibe check” standard. Founded in 2015 by industrial designer Jonathan Ferrer, the brand obviously doesn’t have a back catalog of “vintage” designs to pull from or reinvent, but their new Metric Lite model is aimed squarely at the “retro-vintage” renaissance that’s hitting the watch world, mostly because, well, it looks the part. Is that all it takes to make a retro-vintage watch? Let’s dive in. Brew’s self-described mission for the Metric Lite can also be found in the name; basically, they set out to create their most “compact and wearable” watch, without sacrificing utility or style. The Metric Lite comes in three variations: steel case and black dial, steel case and mother of pearl dial, and gold PVD case and black dial. All three are wrapped in cushion cases that measure in at 30mm-a mark of the vintage appeal and Brew’s proven understanding of the “everyday watch” category. Each reference additionally wears a hand-brushed flat link bracelet, which lends a sporty outline and 1970’s-type flair to the watch’s silhouette. Brew’s coffe...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Peren Regia Lunar Eclipse Dark
The latest Peren Regia LE Dark follows recent models like the Regia X Automatic 39 Diver, but with a stripped-down aesthetic that’s very monochromatic and a bit futuristic. The diving bezel is sterile save for a white circle at 12 o’clock, and the white dial elements seem to almost float over the depths of the […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Ressence Limited Art Watch Type 8 × Daniel Engelberg
We all know Benoît Mintiens, founder of Ressence, doesn’t shy away from using multiple colors on his user-friendly spherical watches. The brand’s minimalist Type 8, however, has always had a more modest, single-color design - until now. In collaboration with German painter and sculptor Daniel Engelberg, Ressence presents us with the Type 8 DE1 in […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Limited Art Watch Type 8 × Daniel Engelberg to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian
Piaget combines its traditional expertise in stone dials and ultra-thin movements with the Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian, a handsome – and more original – take on the complicated Polo. The slim white gold case is combined with a mesmerizing dial in blue obsidian, which is not a mineral as often believed, but instead volcanic glass. Initial Thoughts The latest Polo Perpetual Calendar is arguably Piaget’s strongest release of the year. It plays to two of the brand’s traditional strengths, thin movements and natural stone or mineral dials. Piaget is of course not the only brand with a perpetual calendar sports watch. In fact, the Polo perpetual with a blue obsidian dial is similar enough to the competition to be competitive – it possesses the key characteristics of being slim and blue – but manages to do so without being derivative, which is arguably an issue with the earlier iteration of the model. The blue obsidian dial in particular sets this apart from comparable watches since exotic dial materials are relatively rare in this segment. The mechanics inside the latest Polo perpetual remain the same. While not the most sophisticated perpetual calendar mechanism in the segment, the ubiquitous Dubois Depraz calendar module is solid and reliable if adjusted according to protocol. Its widespread use also makes it easy for watchmakers to source parts, which is not always a given when it comes to complicated ultra-thin watches. That, paired with a competent ult...
Hodinkee
Introducing: NBA Superstar LeBron James Just Dropped A New Richard Mille RM65-01 Split-Seconds Chronograph
The King James version features a Carbon TPT and Quartz TPT Version of one of Richard Mille's most extreme chronographs, along with a big helping of Lakers love.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Enamel Infinite Grey
There is a good possibility that Girard-Perregaux may remain an if-you-know-you-know pick when it comes to the luxury watch market, but it’s not for lack of trying. Its recent vintage reissue, partnerships with Aston Martin F1, and focus on different sizing options with unique design languages indicates their desire for mainstream acceptance. Despite these efforts, competitors like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe still seem to overshadow the brand and dominate the hyped up market space when discussing integrated bracelet sports watches with heritage designs. With their latest release, Girard-Perregaux is aiming to showcase its technical know-how and craftsmanship pedigree rather than following the same tired trends like so many others in the space. Emphasizing its in-house ground-up construction, the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Enamel Infinite Grey leans into the initial under-the-radar vibes to snatch your attention with interesting new details. However, they do come at a price. Case It should be a known quantity at this point, but I still find myself surprised at the case architecture and finishing almost every time I handle a Laureato. At first glance, it presents as many other integrated bracelet watches do, with a hefty presence and no shortage of conspicuous steel. Though the more time you spend poring over its blend of straight and curved lines, the more you appreciate the visual cohesion between angular and organic. Bouncing between polished and finely bru...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Zeitwinkel 240° Noir
It’s hard not to focus on price these days. The world has gotten more expensive over the last few years, and watches have not been immune to price hikes. Anyone following watch media in 2025 would be able to tell you that, and this site has not been immune. It’s the topic of the day in a big way, and ignoring it altogether would be a mistake on all fronts. Still, if you look back at the 13 years since Worn & Wound has been around, the narrative arc in that time isn’t about rising prices, it’s about value. In the more than a decade since Worn & Wound first came online, watchmaking has been dramatically democratized. Value has, in large part, been the name of the game, and increased access to complications, techniques, and materials has largely been a big part of what has kept me so interested in watches on a deep level - I mean, the idea that anyone complaining that a sub-$1000 GMT watch only had a caller movement would have been anathema to any collector just 10 years ago. Most of the value conversation in recent years has been focused on affordable watches, but a remarkable reality is that there is also value to be had if you take a step up. Brands at all scales have noticeably stepped up the quality of their movements, and while I’d never consider calling a 17,200 CHF watch anything but expensive, it’s hard to ignore that Zeitwinkel is offering (or at least trying to offer) something really special at a price that would have been hard to imagine not that l...
Time+Tide
The Breitling Top Time B31 could be the top dog under US$6,000
The new Breitling Top Time B31 distills the model down to time and date essentials, with colourful contrast dials and a new 78-hour calibre.The post The Breitling Top Time B31 could be the top dog under US$6,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Deeper, Further, Faster: Why do Some Dive Watches have Helium Escape Valves?
Humans have long had a fascination with the depths of the ocean, striving to go ever deeper, ever further, and ever faster by pushing the limits of the human body, technology, and advancing modern science. But like all things, we are often faced with limits. And the helium escape valve was invented to push one of those limits as watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Ming 20.01 Series 5
Until now, I’ve had to enjoy Ming’s 20.01 chronographs from afar. Finally, the good folks from the independent brand were able to send one of the flagship pieces to me for a hands-on review. I spent a week with the new 20.01 Series 5 and fell in love with this highly detailed, stunning watch. I’m […] Visit Hands-On With The New Ming 20.01 Series 5 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The New Ming 20.01 Series 5 Features the Brand’s Most Complex Dial Yet
As we’ve discussed at length here recently, one of our favorite things about Ming is their ability to innovate across price points. Recent watches in the 37 series, like the Minimalist and Ghost, prove that thoughtful contemporary design and creative watchmaking and engineering do not have to approach five figures. But then, when the brand does cross that five figure mark, and creates something in the haute horlogery realm, we get things that are incredibly special and can kind of break your brain, making you wonder both how they did it and what is this anyway? That’s very much the vibe of last year’s solid gold 20.01 Series 3, which featured a fused borosilicate dial with 600 tiny holes cut into it that were then filled with lume (all on top of an AgenGraphe chronograph movement, naturally). At the time, I thought that watch was Ming’s most avant-garde creation, but the latest watch in the 20.01 Series might just top it. The centerpiece of the new 20.01 Series 5 is a science-fiction inspired dial that is laser milled from a single block of titanium. I was fortunate to be able to spend some time with this watch ahead of its release, and even though I had my chance to gaze at the dial, look at it under magnification, and consider it in all the ways we always evaluate something like this, I still have a hard time actually describing it. It is, effectively, a decorative sheet of titanium that has been cut to form a complex radial pattern emanating from the dial’s ce...
Fratello
IWC Schaffhausen Roars From The Grid With A Major Collection For The F1 Movie
For racing fans, the new F1 movie should be the cinematic event of the summer. It promises heart-pounding action along with the chance to see stars like Brad Pitt and Damson Idris in the driver’s seat of modern Formula One cars. But what’s a race car without a high-performance watch? Enter IWC Schaffhausen as the […] Visit IWC Schaffhausen Roars From The Grid With A Major Collection For The F1 Movie to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One!
Let’s start with a riddle. What has one eye, one mouth, two hands, and a rebellious soul? You got it - the Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III. The million-dollar question is whether humor belongs in luxury watchmaking, but when it looks good, it doesn’t matter if you think the watch […] Visit Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One! to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The Hublot Aerofusion Titanium Chrongraph Is Fun On the Wrist!
The Hublot Aerofusion Titanium Chronograph isn’t your normal sports watch. It’s unapologetically bold, has striking wrist presence and ultimately, fun! What We Love The skeletonised dial looks great The look of the polished titanium gives it a lot of wrist presence Has the DNA of the original Classic Fusion Original, which is the essence of Hublot What We Don’t The clasp design could worry some wrists 45mm will be large for some The power reserve is on the smaller side compared to others on the market today Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 It doesn’t get too much more Hublot than the Classic Fusion collection, well, at least from a brand DNA perspective. The Classic Fusion is really where it all kicked off for the brand back in 1980 when Carlo Crocco had the crazy idea of putting rubber and precious metal together on a sports watch. Although it wasn’t called the Classic Fusion back then, that came later under the leadership of Jean Claude-Biver. The design was also something new and daring. Hublot is French for “Porthole” as as such, the design mimiced this with the bezel design and “H” shaped screws that are found on the case. From those beginnings back in 1980, the brand has grown immensely to what we know today. Hublot is a brand that is not afraid of breaking convention, going against the norm, and really just doing it their way! Over the years, Hublot has evolved substantially an...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: A Guide to Every Equation of Time Watch by A.-L. Breguet
Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) stands among the most revered names in horology, celebrated for innovations that shaped modern watchmaking. While his tourbillon, self-winding mechanism, and anti-shock system are widely acknowledged, his work in astronomical timekeeping, particularly equation of time (EOT) watches, remain one of Breguet’s most intricate yet less-explored achievements. With 2025 marking the 250th anniversary of his birth, this guide offers the most comprehensive study of every known EOT timepiece made during his lifetime, including pocket watch no. 160 “Marie Antoinette”, expanding on our prior analysis of the complication (in parts I and II). No. 160 as pictured at the recent exhibition in London’s Science Museum. Image – Baruch Coutts Looking at the stars Breguet operated in an era where precision timekeeping was dictated by astronomy, and his workshop, positioned at the heart of Paris’s scientific and commercial networks, was uniquely placed to serve scientists, navigators, and royalty who required accurate solar and mean time readings. Rather than settling on a single method for displaying and correcting the EOT, he explored multiple mechanical solutions, refining some while revisiting earlier ideas when necessary. His approach does not follow a strictly linear evolution but instead reflects a dynamic cycle of innovation, mechanical experimentation, and adaptation. Breguet’s cam-driven system with feeler to indicate EOT, as found in pocke...
Deployant
Event Report: Urban Jürgensen relaunch with exclusive video of Kari Voutilainen with details on the new brand
We attended the Urban Jürgensen launch in Santa Monica on July 4 and 5, and had a chat with Kari Voutilainen, the co-CEO of the new brand.
Fratello
Value In Vintage: The Must De Cartier Tank
Cartier is a watch maison synonymous with iconic case shapes. Among them are the Santos, the Tonneau, and the Pasha. The Tank, however, must be the brand’s most famous creation. Within the Tank family, we have so many standalone icons, including the Tank Normale, the Tank Americaine, and the Tank Française. The Cartier Tank is […] Visit Value In Vintage: The Must De Cartier Tank to read the full article.