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Patek Philippe & Tiffany: The History Behind The Hype Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Jul 9, 2025

Patek Philippe & Tiffany: The History Behind The Hype

As longtime, mutually beneficial relationships in the world of high luxury go, the one between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. is perhaps the most quintessential. The esteemed Swiss watchmaker behind classic timepieces like the Calatrava and Nautilus and the elite retailer/jeweler renowned for its distinctive blue gift boxes have been partners for more than 170 years, and Patek Philippe watches with a Tiffany signature are among the rarest and most coveted items on a serious watch collector’s wishlist. In this feature, I explore the long and prestigious history behind Patek Philippe’s Tiffany watches and spotlight how the two world-famous brands continue to collaborate today.  Patek Philippe: The Origin Story The company that would be known as Patek Philippe had its foundation laid in 1839, when a Polish watchmaker named Antoni Norbert de Patek and his business partner, Czech-born François Czapek, partnered to form Patek, Czapek, & Cie, in Geneva. The company produced pocket watches for a relatively brief period before disagreements between the two founders precipitated the dissolving of the partnership, and the firm, by 1845. That same year, Patek began a new partnership with a French watchmaker named Adrien Philippe, whose historical claim to fame was the invention of the keyless winding system for watches. Together, they established a new company, Patek & Cie., to continue making watches, which officially became Patek, Philippe, & Cie. in 1851. That year was pivo...

Defying Expectations: Hands-On with the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow Diver Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Revival Shadow Diver Jul 9, 2025

Defying Expectations: Hands-On with the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow Diver

When the Zenith Defy Revival diver was released last year, I somehow missed it. I didn’t see it when it passed through the office, nor at any press events, and honestly, I just didn’t take notice of articles. I guess I was busy. While unfortunate in one sense, perhaps it was for the best, as my first in-person experience with it was with its follow-up model, the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow, and I was immediately taken. Small, dark, weird, vintage-y, and yet also with a 90s vibe, it sank its titanium teeth into me fast. I’m not surprised, to be honest, as the “shadow” watches by Zenith have been their coolest models in the last several years, at least to yours truly. An aesthetic outlier within their collection, these occasional brooding models utilize not just the best-metal-for-a-sports-watchTM, titanium, but also a unique micro-blasting, which gives them a charcoal tone that is more nuanced than black coatings. Light and dark in one package, I’m surprised I don’t already have a Shadow in my watch box. The Shadow Treatment But, even among the Shadow models, the Defy Revival stands out. It’s a remarkably compact, tough tool watch with unique vintage styling that comes to life with shocks of neon yellow. The only shadow model to use a color, Zenith wasn’t shy, and it paid off. A love it or leave it hue, it was a risk. This is the kind of unexpected design choice that will make me take notice of a brand. To use an expression I truly hate, “I see you,” Ze...

Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Review Teddy Baldassarre
Doxa Jul 9, 2025

Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Review

The Doxa name is certainly among the superstars of the classic dive-watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional, as well as the black-dialed Sharkhunter version, as worn by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. But Doxa’s diving history predates the 1967 introduction of the 300, and today we’re looking at a watch that harks back to those earlier models, specifically those with twisted-lug cases that preceded the tonneau-shaped Sub 300 we associate most with the brand. This is the Doxa Sub 200, specifically the Sharkhunter variant, and it’s a fantastic-looking callback to the early ‘60s.  Best of all, it represents the entry point into the modern Doxa lineup at just a shade above $1,000 retail, and if you’re not a fan of black dials, the brand known for its colorful divers has seven other colorways to choose from. But today, we’re going to take a closer look at the 200 that most closely resembles its vintage inspiration, the black-dialed Sharkhunter model. In its most basic black form, the dial is a slice of midcentury perfection. This is the watch Mad Men's Don Draper would wear on a weekend getaway to Palm Springs. Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Case:  You'd be forgiven if you thought the case of the Sub 200 was influenced by a vintage Omega Seamaster 300, but it turns out that the look of the case is a direct callback to Doxa's history. The lyre-lugged design is a direct descendant of the vintage...

Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam Fratello
Jul 9, 2025

Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam

Last December, I had a chance to go hands-on with the Diver One Snow from Wren Watches. This brand is the brainchild of Wrist Enthusiast founder Craig Karger, and the first efforts went over very well with watch fans. Labeled as a passion project, the Diver One and its success might lead to something much […] Visit Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam to read the full article.

Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph SJX Watches
Jul 9, 2025

Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

Sportier and a little more affordable than its more elegant cousin, Parmigiani’s Tonda PF Sport was originally available only in steel. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet swaps out that conventional alloy for a case of cermet, a composite of ceramic and metal. Notably, the entire case – bezel, case middle, pushers, and crown – is in cermet. Initial thoughts Parmigiani has iterated its popular sports into many variations, perhaps too many, but the Tonda PF Sport in cermet is one of the most interesting so far. While the material is not new to watches, it is usually employed for one or two components, typically the bezel. The new Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is almost all cermet, which is gives it an appealing a single-tone appearance that goes well with the clean styling. The new chronograph is available in Milano Blue (left), and London Grey Material aside, it is essentially identical to earlier versions of the Tonda Sport PF Chronograph. Though it is little changed in fundamental terms, that’s not necessarily a bad thing as the PF070 movement inside ranks amongst one of the most sophisticated chronograph calibres, especially in sports watches. The only downside of the new material is the price hike. The cermet model is basically a 50% premium over the steel version, which the brand will not doubt justify in terms of machining and polishing complexity, but it is still difficult to rationalise. The PF070 Ceramic and metal Cermet is a composite of ceramic and...

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker Meets Behrens’ Ultra Light SJX Watches
Behrens Ultra Light Building Jul 9, 2025

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker Meets Behrens’ Ultra Light

Building on the Russian watchmaker’s signature Joker timepiece, the Behrens x Konstantin Chaykin Ace of Hearts blends the European court jester with its Chinese counterpart – contained with Behren’s ultra-light, trapezoid wristwatch that was first launched in 2023 as the Ultra-Light 11G. Initial Thoughts One of a new breed of inventive Chinese watchmakers, Behrens has always excelled at novelty watches, thanks to a combination of creativity and competitive pricing. This sets it apart from both its domestic and international competition. European manufacturers in the same price range simply can’t develop base movements or even custom modules for small production runs, at least economically, while only a few other Chinese brands have built enough credibility outside the country to sell five- to six-figure watches internationally. The Ace of Hearts exemplifies what Behrens does well – while also being a collaboration with an established European independent watchmaker. The brand’s earlier collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin was well received, but didn’t stand out from other Wristmon models in terms of styling, so it’s good to see a new direction with the Ace of Hearts. In fact, the Ace of Hearts stands out even in comparison to the ever-growing Wristmon family. I find the sapphire case models most interesting, as the transparent case suits the airy construction of the movement and importantly, they are priced reasonably compared to Swiss brands. Movement The...

Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition Fratello
Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Jul 9, 2025

Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition

Last month, I had the opportunity to attend Soccer Aid, a charitable football match held at Old Trafford in Manchester. Norqain was the official timing partner of the event and invited a group of people to see the game and hear about the brand’s official UK launch. During the evening, we sat down with CEO […] Visit Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition to read the full article.

Hands-on – The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver Jul 9, 2025

Hands-on – The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All

Seiko‘s dive watch legacy is long and rich, yet surprisingly, a mechanical diver with a GMT complication only joined the catalogue in 2023. The SPB381/383and SPB385 laid the groundwork with their “caller GMT x Diver” design, and earlier this year, the SPB509 brought meaningful improvements, including 300m water resistance and a micro-adjustable clasp, wrapped in […]

DUG: The New Kids on the Block in Glashütte Worn & Wound
Nomos s workshops Jul 8, 2025

DUG: The New Kids on the Block in Glashütte

On a warm and sunny Saturday in June, I visited the inauguration ceremony for DUG workshop. DUG (Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte) is the eleventh company to establish itself in the watchmaking town of Glashütte. The last brand to open a workshop in this town were young independent duo, Kallinich Claeys.  The DUG workshop is just around the corner from Lange HQ, across from Glashütte Watch Museum, and on the steep road leading up to one of Nomos’s workshops. The building previously belonged to C.H. Wolf, and there is still some old signage around the building. It is a modern and fairly large building for a micro-brand to occupy. It has tall ceilings and a row of new watchmaker benches along with a few administrative and conference rooms. It could easily host a medium size watch company. The DUG workshop Toni Brodführer, founder and Managing Director of DUG, is planning to move in there before the end of the year with three watchmakers. He is also open to sharing the space with other small watch companies. At the opening ceremony, I was pleased to run into Thibault Claeys and Johannes Kallinich, who were impressed by the building and seemed to like what Toni is doing. Before I get back to my observations about the brand and the newest watches, I interviewed Toni to get some background and context of owning and operating a new micro-brand in Glashütte.  Toni’s journey of DUG began with a personal passion for watches. He had been fascinated with watches since his...

Is It Time For A New Omega Speedmaster? What About A New Mini-Moonwatch? Fratello
Omega Speedmaster? What About Jul 8, 2025

Is It Time For A New Omega Speedmaster? What About A New Mini-Moonwatch?

Last year, Omega treated us (Speedmaster enthusiasts and collectors) to a generous selection of new models. The brand introduced the white-dial Speedmaster Professional, a new Speedmaster FOiS, two bicolor Moonwatch variations, and the Speedmaster Pilot. And let’s not forget about the first introduction in 2024, the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 update. […] Visit Is It Time For A New Omega Speedmaster? What About A New Mini-Moonwatch? to read the full article.

Introducing – The Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Taupe… Surprisingly Streamlined Monochrome
Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Taupe… Jul 8, 2025

Introducing – The Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Taupe… Surprisingly Streamlined

Hublot… A brand that brings heated conversations and opinions. Hublot is surely known for its bold moves, disruptive materials and colours you can spot across the room. Baby blue sapphire case, snake pattern on the bezel, multicoloured ceramic that looks… questionable. You name it. Yet, Hublot also knows how to use its signature Classic Fusion […]

First Look – The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche, a Contemporary Classic Rooted in Tradition Monochrome
Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche Jul 8, 2025

First Look – The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche, a Contemporary Classic Rooted in Tradition

The romantically inclined would agree that there is a certain intimacy in winding a watch by hand, a moment of pause, intention, and awareness of time’s passage. With its latest creation, the 1902 Réserve de Marche, Schwarz Etienne invites that quiet ritual back into the rhythm of daily life, full of automatically performed actions. Building […]

Seiko Commemorates the World Athletics Championships with a Limited Edition Purple Speedtimer Worn & Wound
Seiko Commemorates Jul 7, 2025

Seiko Commemorates the World Athletics Championships with a Limited Edition Purple Speedtimer

The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer is one of those watches that is just incredibly easy to recommend. It runs on a solar powered quartz movement, which makes it ultra practical and reliable. It’s styled to look a little like classic vintage chronographs that we love, but isn’t an on-the-nose recreation of any in particular. And they come in an easy to wear 39mm case, a fairly neutral size for just about any wrist. They’re also relatively affordable, coming in well under $1,000.  Seiko has released several of these “SSC” Speedtimers in recent years in a variety of colorways. The latest is a limited edition for the World Athletics Championships, which this year returns to Tokyo for the first time in 34 years. Seiko has been the official timekeeper of the World Athletics organization since 1987 and has made a number of watches to commemorate the partnership in that time.  This Speedtimer would seem to capitalize on a fairly persistent trend in the watch world: the purple dial. According to Seiko, the tone of this dial in particular is inspired by “Edo purple”, a shade long associated with the city of Tokyo. This color has also been designated as the official color of this year’s World Athletics Championships event.  The purple base is accented with black chronograph subdials and a black tachymeter bezel, along with applied faceted hour markers and lume filled hands that have been outlined in black for increased legibility. The black and purple combination works w...

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Jul 7, 2025

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon

The signature complication of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking, the Spin Time is a jump hours with a twist that is now 16 years now. Earlier this year, the complication was given a major technical and aesthetic update with an all-new collection, the Tambour Taiko Spin Time, featuring a new case and a new movement family – both developed and produced in-house. The flagship model is the Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon that combines the jumping hours with a central flying tourbillon – a logical use of the peripheral arrangement of the time display. Though the most complicated (and expensive) of the line, the Flying Tourbillon has all of the key elements of the Tambour Taiko, including the redesigned case and a new movement made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Louis Vuitton’s Geneva watch manufacture. Initial thoughts Whether or not you like the watches themselves, the Tambour Taiko Spin Time collection is a statement of intent by Louis Vuitton. The brand has made substantial investment in vertical integration and manufacturing, essentially watchmaking, and the Tambour Taiko line-up is proof of that. More specifically, the family of movements that underpins the Tambour Taiko illustrates the industrial-haute horlogerie capability that Louis Vuitton has developed in a relatively short period of time, the very sort of competence required to build a high-end watch brand at scale. The movements in the Tambour Taiko collection now number three, but are all part of the s...

Introducing – The new IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph in Armor Gold Monochrome
IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph Jul 7, 2025

Introducing – The new IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph in Armor Gold

The Portugieser line is one of IWC’s iconic collections, tracing its origins back to the late 1930s when Portuguese businessmen sought precision marine chronometer-grade wristwatches with oversized cases and clear dials. Since then, the Portugieser family has evolved into a flagship line balancing classic elegance with technical prowess, blending clean, legible design with complications that […]

A Hands-On Introduction To The Colorful Batavi Marina Chronograaf Collection Fratello
Jul 7, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The Colorful Batavi Marina Chronograaf Collection

It’s summer in the Northern Hemisphere, so it’s time to dust off your colorful watches. If you haven’t got any colorful options in your watch box yet, look at the new Marina Chronograaf collection by Batavi. As always, the Dutch brand offers surprising color combinations, and the modest pricing turns these models into perfect “bonus” […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Colorful Batavi Marina Chronograaf Collection to read the full article.

New Release: Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain in Stainless Steel, the Final Edition Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain Jul 7, 2025

New Release: Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain in Stainless Steel, the Final Edition

Ian Skellern has been a Greubel Forsey fan boy since the brand launched back in 2004, but his appreciation for the brand’s beautifully executed complications was always purely platonic. It wasn't just the price, their watches were too big for him. The sub-40 mm Balancier Contemporain changed that and this blue stainless steel final edition looks sensational!

Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism Fratello
Jul 7, 2025

Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism

Los Angeles-based brand J.N. Shapiro Watches has achieved a somewhat mythical status since Josh Shapiro founded it in 2018. The watches are elusive and exclusive creations that dent your budget and test your patience. What if you don’t have US$75,000 to spend and/or lack the mental stamina to wait around three years for your watch? […] Visit Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism to read the full article.

Introducing: The Cartier Tank Américaine European Limited Edition Fratello
Cartier Tank Américaine European Limited Jul 6, 2025

Introducing: The Cartier Tank Américaine European Limited Edition

The Tank Américaine is easily one of my favorite modern Cartier wristwatches. The long, curved case wears beautifully and provides ample space for an attractive dial. The serial-production watches are available in three sizes, along with a variety of movements and materials. Occasionally, the watch acts as a platform for a special release. Today’s new […] Visit Introducing: The Cartier Tank Américaine European Limited Edition to read the full article.