Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: Early Parmigiani Fleurier And The Enduring Appeal Of ‘Overbuilt’ Watches
How one man revived a Swiss village through a focus on old-school craft and how we collect these over-the-top pieces today.
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Hodinkee
How one man revived a Swiss village through a focus on old-school craft and how we collect these over-the-top pieces today.
Hodinkee
New functionality (including a bi-directional bezel) and clean design bring a quiet grace to the Spirit line.
Hodinkee
Forget the bagel with lox, what the people really wanted was MB&F; to put salmon on steel.
Worn & Wound
Last week, news of the latest marquee lot to go under the hammer via Phillips broke across watch media. The phrase “historically significant” is often used to describe high profile vintage watches that go up for auction, but very few actually feel truly historic. I would argue that this particular Patek Philippe, a watch that once belonged to Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of the Qing Dynasty, meets just about any definition for historically significant that you can come up with. Not only did it belong to a figure from our relatively recent history that marked a profound change in a nation’s history, but in terms of vintage Patek, this complicated Calatrava is worth studying even outside the scope of its significant owner. If you’re not familiar with Puyi’s story, a brief introduction or refresher is certainly in order to properly contextualize the watch. Aisin-Gioro Puyi became the Emperor of China at the age of 2, abdicated his throne at 7, and was held as a political prisoner by the Soviets following World War II. Puyi led an uncommon and complex life through a period of great political upheaval, but it’s notable that despite the title of Emperor that was thrust upon him as a boy, he never held significant power as a world leader. In his brief stint as the final Emperor of the Qing Dynasty he was essentially a figurehead, and later served as the puppet leader of Manchukuo for the Japanese following their invasion of Manchuria in 1932. Puyi is seen by s...
Time+Tide
The MB&F; LM Perpetual Steel is their second ever creation to have a salmon dial Stainless steel is very rarely used by MB&F; for cases, upping the rarity factor even more Not a limited edition, but it will be limited in production each year When you look at higher end brands like Patek Philippe, typically … ContinuedThe post The new MB&F; LM Perpetual has a salmon dial in a steel case – super rare for the brand yet not a limited edition! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After more than a year of rumours, LVMH finally confirmed the long expected with its February announcement of the relaunch of Daniel Roth. And now the brand officially debuts its inaugural watch, the Tourbillon Souscription. Modelled on the Daniel Roth tourbillon of 1988, the Tourbillon Souscription is almost a remake of the original from thirty-five years ago. It retains the same styling characterised by a double-ellipse case and one-minute tourbillon at six, but is entirely new in terms of mechanics: inside is a brand-new mechanical movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Initial thoughts I got in touch with Daniel Roth and his wife Nicolas after learning of the brand’s revival. They indicated their approval of the project. Their approval will probably have little impact on the new watches since they aren’t involved in the brand’s comeback, but it is certainly good to know. Being a homage to the brand’s origins, the Tourbillon Souscription is a good opening act in its revival. But for the resurrected brand to have longevity and relevance, it would have to do more than remakes; it will have to create new and original products that channel the spirit of the originals, a point I made in my earlier editorial. A Daniel Roth tourbillon from the 1990s The Tourbillon Souscription is clearly inspired by the original watches of the 1990s. It retains the same dimensions and almost all the details, right down to the hobnail guilloche dial. In fact, i...
Worn & Wound
We’re back with another pairing for Paired Up Monday’s. A while back, we partnered with the folks at Zodiac to create the Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition. The creation took their 2:00 o’clock crowned Olympos and gave it a classic military dial with railroad minute track and bold numbers. Overall, the watch was a perfect amalgamation of both brands. We’re back with another pairing for Paired Up Monday’s. A while back, we partnered with the folks at Zodiac to create the Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition. The creation took their 2:00 o’clock crowned Olympos and gave it a classic military dial with railroad minute track and bold numbers. Overall, the watch was a perfect amalgamation of both brands. The post Paired Up Mondays with the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
We’re not yet at the stage that the BR05 is seen as THE Bell & Ross-there’s still a long way to go before it could dethrone the classic square silhouette of the BR01 and BR03 models-but it feels like it has grown up enough to be seen as not just another brand jumping on the integrated bracelet sport watch bandwagon. It’s not even four years since the first of the BR05 variants were unveiled, and during that time we have seen three-handers, chronographs and GMTs. Stainless steel watches have seen bead-blasting and ‘Artline’ finishing. There have been rose gold and two-tone cases. Dials have come in black, white, copper, green, and blue. And lets not forget the Kenissi powered BR-X5 which has also evolved from the same case. As I browse the BR05 catalogue, both past and present, I’m struck by two thoughts. Firstly, there have been a LOT of different watches in this line. It’s not surprising that a brand should choose to repeat and rework a flagship model, but even allowing for quite a number of limited editions, that’s still a lot of releases since the original 2019 debut. This leads to my second thought. Despite always being impressed with the overall aesthetic, case design and finishing, why haven’t I found one that I really like? Finding my own answer to that has required me to attempt to classify what type of watch the BR05 actually is. $6600 [Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Case Stainless Stee Movement BR-CAL.322 (Base SW300-1) Dia...
Hodinkee
These next classes will be hosted by IWC, Moe Jaber, and the Atlanta Watch Society.
Time+Tide
Magnetism is an everyday danger to your mechanical watch, but these five antimagnetic watches dealt with it best and first.The post 5 of the most pioneering anti-magnetic watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Panerai releases the new Luminor Chrono Zebra, in a new black and white colorway. The limited edition of 350 pieces is cased in sandblasted titanium with a carbotech bezel.
Hodinkee
A sage green dial for the brand's easiest-wearing model.
Quill & Pad
Martin Green thought that the Moser Pioneer was the perfect luxury sports watch, but with the new 40 mm models, it just got even better!
Time+Tide
The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II brings the case size down from 45mm to 42mm. This is the first time DOXA’s famous dial colours have been given a sunburst finish. It’s a fantastic option for a gender-neutral diving chronograph. When DOXA dropped their first non-reissue chronograph back in late 2020, it was one of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is more compact and more colourful than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Jacob & Co. Epic SF24 is a watch that is so unapologetically original that it takes the classic world time complication and flips it on its head. Instead of using hands or rotating discs to indicate the 24 major timezones, it utilises a remarkable innovation called the Split-Flap system to display a selected timezone […]
Time+Tide
Collaboration often leads to the best results, and Stella is a brand born of collaboration. With the name formed out of the founders Stephen and Marcella’s names, you can tell that their partnership is really the core of the company. A passion for watches is common between them, and the meshing of Marcella’s creative brain … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Ellis is a stunning GMT with traditional sensibilities and contemporary looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Swapping wrists with the GMT-Master II Ref. 126720VTNR - the most fun watch the Crown has made in years.
Time+Tide
It’s another knock-down, drag-out street fight here on Versus, and this match-up pits two classic divers, the current version of the venerable Seiko Turtle against the bomb-proof Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Dive. Once again, we match up two comparable watches in similar styles and price points, and compare their shared qualities, and the ones that set … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: The Seiko Prospex Turtle takes on the Citizen Promaster Dive for entry-level underwater supremacy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you are reading this, then in all likelihood you are passionate about watchmaking – or, at the very least, on the path to being a watch enthusiast. But, in order for us to report on watches, and for all of us to be able to purchase and have our watches serviced when needed, this … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED VIEWING: NBC reports on the threat of a watchmaker shortage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
With the Type 8, Ressence goes to the core of its “DNA.” In fact, with it Ressence seems to be exploring an even stronger sense of purity than what we have seen before. That says a lot as Ressence was already a master in toning down design to achieve maximum impact and legibility.
Time+Tide
The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector brings attention to negative space in a refreshing way. The new anthracite dial is inspired by the clear and dark skies of Antarctica. The use of titanium means the whole watch weighs only 95g. Reviving an extinct watch brand can often lead to the creative trap of rehashing vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
You've got questions. We've got answers, straight from the Crown.
Time+Tide
Whether it’s to justify your latest splurge or make a fast buck, the issue of resale value looms large in the mind of the contemporary watch buyer. Selling a watch in order to fund another purchase is nothing new. But as the secondary market for luxury watches has heated up in recent years, more and … ContinuedThe post What’s happening to the value of your watch? New report delves into the secondary watch market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Many new releases from Seiko rely on inspiration from the brand’s rich back catalogue, and the case of the new Prospex GMT 1968 Diver’s Re-interpretation follows that trend. Basing their design on the 6159-7001 reference that followed the very first dive watch from Seiko, the 62MAS, the 1968 Diver’s GMT features the 4 o’clock crown, … ContinuedThe post GMTs galore! Seiko introduces the Prospex SPB381, SPB383 and SPB385 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen’s formula for success is quite simple. Since the brand came back bursting onto the scene by re-releasing collection mainstays in the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver and the Antarctic in 2020, Guillaume Laidet and Remi Chabrat has continued to tap into the brand’s expansive vintage catalog full of no-fuss field watches, funky divers and bold chronographs. Bit by bit, Nivada Grenchen has given us a full-on history lesson with a steady cadence of re-releases built for the modern day wearer and enthusiast. The brand has also made more of a concentrated effort by providing more affordable options with the same charming vintage aesthetic. I think I can speak for everyone when I say, we welcome all of this with open arms (especially the affordable part). But Nivada Grenchen isn’t just a one trick pony. We’ve seen the brand take more of an open-minded approach via their collaborations. Heck, we got a flurry of them to close out 2022, with each special edition piece embracing what their collaborative partner brings to table, while simultaneously encapsulating the brand’s 70’s vintage design language. I’ve said this plenty of times, and I’ll say it again, collaborations allow brands to let their hair down. To step outside of the box. To try something entirely new. And the result is something quite refreshing for us enthusiasts. That’s exactly what we’ve been getting from Nivada Grenchen and their forays into the collaborative space. Now Nivada Gren...
Hodinkee
Inspired by the beauty of Italian art, Bulgari offers up its take on the salmon dial trend.
Worn & Wound
It’s that time of year again. Watches and Wonders is around the corner. And with that, your purchasing prowess finds itself in hibernation while you eagerly await what your favorite watch brand is going to release. But what does that mean for your current collection? Should those watches hide in fear of possibly taking that long trip to sales land. We at the Windup Watch Shop say no! It’s that time of year again. Watches and Wonders is around the corner. And with that, your purchasing prowess finds itself in hibernation while you eagerly await what your favorite watch brand is going to release. But what does that mean for your current collection? Should those watches hide in fear of possibly taking that long trip to sales land. We at the Windup Watch Shop say no! The post Countdown to Spring with some great deals from the Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Memories of the 90s and a New Iteration.
Worn & Wound
When I think back to last year’s Watches & Wonders, there are only a handful of watches and experiences that really stand out in my memory now that time has done its thing. The one-off Streamliner that H. Moser coated entirely in Vantablack comes to mind, as does that giant purple Hublot that has become a point of personal obsession.. As I reflect back though on my first Watches & Wonders, there’s another meeting that stands out, somewhat surprisingly, from all the others, and that’s our experience with Ressence. I’ve always admired Ressence and had limited hands-on experience with them in boutiques and at meetups prior to seeing them in Geneva, but it was another thing entirely to have a whole bunch of them laid out on a table with brand founder Benoit Mintiens personally taking us through the collection. These watches are truly special, quite rare, and try them all on in rapid fire succession was just a lot of fun. The big new release at the time, the Type 8 C, made a particularly strong impression as the new entry level Ressence. It was lightweight, beautiful, and approachable in a way that no other Ressence had felt like to me. Now, just in time for Watches & Wonders ‘23, Ressence has introduced another Type 8, this one in a gorgeous shade of green. The new Type 8 S (for “sage green”) has exactly the same specs as last year’s version in blue. That means it still has a lugless 43mm case made from grade 5 titanium, that’s just 11mm tall. It has a flyi...
Deployant
Swatch releases new watches in the next chapter of their Art Journey Collection featuring famous and important works from selected galleries.
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