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WristBuzz
GRØNE, the brothers' separate brand from the Grönefeld haute-horlogerie atelier, launches the Horologium in two variants. 39mm steel, La Joux-Perret manual, salmon or Dutch-orange dial, 188 pieces per variant, €2,390 ex VAT. Order window opens 13 August.
Fratello
When you’re into watches, you sometimes come across new brands on Instagram that spark your interest. The recently introduced Arche by French watch design studio Laps is a great example of this phenomenon. Somehow, the bold case design and asymmetric dial design caught my eye. However, I do not always reach out to these brands […] Visit The Arche By Laps Bridges The Gap Between Architecture And Watchmaking to read the full article.
SJX Watches
While most Swiss watchmakers are taking their summer holidays, H. Moser & Cie. has unveiled the Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Cosmic Rain — the latest variant of the brand’s most complicated movement platform. The Cosmic Rain takes its name from its dial, which features mother-of-pearl inlays on an aventurine glass dial base. Devoid of a brand logo or wordmark — a long-running Moser motif — the dial effectively evokes a night sky filled with streaking comets. Initial thoughts H. Moser & Cie. is probably best known for its minimalist designs, but the Cosmic Rain’s openworked construction reveals another side of the brand. So, too, does its raden dial, which is dressed up with shimmering strips of mother-of-pearl. The Cosmic Rain is quite compact for such a complicated watch at 40 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm thick — barely larger than some time-only watches. These wrist-friendly dimensions, combined with a lightweight titanium case, should make for a comfortable wearing experience. The calibre HMC 909 features an off-centre time display that reveals both the strike train and the tourbillon, which has been elevated — literally and figuratively — with a cylindrical hairspring. Unfortunately, the vestigial centre wheel pinion is unnecessarily exposed, revealing the calibre’s roots as a movement designed for central hour and minutes hands. There’s a lot to like about the Cosmic Rain, but it’s hard to find justification for the CHF...
WatchAdvice
The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet is bold, unapologetically big, and has major wrist presence. And we love it! What We Love The look of the microblasted titanium case with the purple dial and strap The lightweight construction makes it easy to wear The 1/100th second chronograph is a fun complication to play with What We Don’t It is a larger watch that will not fit all wrists The style is not for everyone or everyday wear due to the size, design, and colour The power reserve could be stretched a little more to 60 hours if I’m being picky Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The Zenith DEFY Extreme is a cool watch, no matter how you look at it. This is the third DEFY Extreme I’ve been able to wear, and every time I put one on my wrist, it just feels right. Yes, it’s not exactly a technical analysis to start a watch review with, but there’s something about these watches that makes me smile. Last year, when I reviewed the DEFY Extreme Diver Shadow, I found it to be a surprisingly easy-wearing watch thanks to the titanium construction and the way Zenith has crafted the case design and bracelet. It wore exceptionally well on the wrist, although slightly smaller at 42.5mm. The Zenith DEFY Extreme models I went hands-on with last year However, I did then spend some time with the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli with the high-polish two-tone case, which would be the Ultraviolet’s more flamboyant cousin. Agai...
WristBuzz
No crown, no hands, an oil-filled dial and a founder from industrial design. Ressence started in Antwerp in 2010 and just released its first fully in-house calibre. here is the whole story.
SJX Watches
Earlier this year, TAG Heuer unveiled the latest iteration of a longstanding model, the Monaco Chronograph TH20. It’s essentially a reissue of the Monaco ref. 1133 made famous by Steve McQueen, but not a one-for-one remake, and it’s the best to date. The Monaco TH20 retains the familiar dial design and case outline, but the case has been reworked in both design and material. The square case is sleeker and more lightweight, being in titanium instead of steel. And it gets upgraded with the TH20 movement, instead of the ETA 2894-2 found in many earlier generations of the model. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the Monaco, especially the ref. 1133 B. It’s a distinctive and arguably iconic design that evokes the 1970s. And it’s different from more famous 1970s designs, which are mostly sports watches with integrated bracelets. Though the Monaco is not particularly ergonomic due to the size and shape, it is cool. The ref. 1133 remake has been in TAG Heuer’s catalogue for a long, long time with many, many iterations to date. Most earlier generations were powered by the ETA 2894 – an ETA 2892 with a module on top – that was a convenient solution for the left-hand crown. The new Monaco is an all-around upgrade with the in-house TH20 movement and titanium case. The TH20 is a competent calibre with solid specs, albeit still very industrial, but good enough for the price segment. The titanium case is a less obvious improvement in terms of design, but it improves the ...
WatchRider
DOXA has returned to the world of novelist, explorer and shipwreck hunter Clive Cussler with its lightest tribute yet. Released on July 15—the day Cussler would have turned 95—the SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler is limited to 300 pieces and recasts the original 1967 SUB 300 in Grade 5 titanium. DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler. Image: WatchRider. A titanium dial with hidden history The most unusual detail is not the metal case but the dial. DOXA constructs it from two superimposed Grade 5 titanium plates. The upper plate is laser-cut, creating a layered relief, while the sandblasted finish gives the grey surface an appropriately industrial character. Black lacquered hands preserve contrast and the oversized orange minute hand supplies the familiar DOXA signal colour. The dual-plane titanium dial and two-scale bezel. Image: DOXA. The date disc and the numerals 15, 7 and 31 appear in orange, spelling out Cussler’s birth date: July 15, 1931. The unidirectional bezel is equally busy for a reason. Its polished outer scale shows DOXA’s no-decompression depths in orange, while the brushed inner track carries a conventional 60-minute scale in black. DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler. Image: DOXA. Familiar SUB 300 proportions, less weight The cushion-shaped case measures 42.5 mm across, 45 mm lug-to-lug and 13.4 mm thick. Grade 5 titanium is used for the case, bezel, screw-down crown and screw-down caseback, while an anti-reflective glass-box sapphire crystal preserves the domed profi...
WatchRider
When most people hear the name Oris, their minds immediately jump to rugged dive watches like the Aquis or the vintage inspired Divers Sixty-Five. But if you only look at their sports watches, you are missing out on some serious mechanical flexing. Enter the Oris Artelier Calibre 113, a watch that proves this independent Swiss brand knows exactly how to build a highly complex, executive-level timepiece without losing its pragmatic edge. The Dial: A Masterclass in Organized Chaos Packing this much information onto a watch dial is risky. But Oris managed to keep the Artelier Calibre 113 remarkably elegant and legible. If you look at the outer perimeter of the dial, you will see the months of the year paired with weeks numbered 1 through 52. The use of varied textures, like a smooth outer ring for the calendar and a recessed finish for the sub dials, creates depth and prevents the watch from feeling overly busy. Calibre 113 The real star of the show is hidden right inside the name: Calibre 113. This is an in-house, hand-wound movement engineered by Oris that solves one of the biggest annoyances of manual watches, constantly running out of juice. Thanks to a massive, single oversized mainspring barrel, the Calibre 113 packs an astounding 10 day (240 hour) power reserve. Final Thoughts The Oris Artelier Calibre 113 is a testament to what independent watchmaking can achieve when it prioritizes practical utility over sheer tradition. By combining an ultra-long power reserve wi...
SJX Watches
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur “The Kabuto Legacy” transforms the brand’s monumental Excalibur case into a showcase for Japanese history and miniature craftsmanship. Thematically similar to the the Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, the samurai-inspired dial centres around a contemporary interpretation of an Edo-period castle with 12 individually hand-engraved pink gold kabuto, each based on the distinctive helmet of a historical warrior. Initial thoughts Watches like the Excalibur Kabuto are not ‘watches’ in the typical sense, and only make sense through an artistic lens. Collectors who spend a lot of time in the spec sheets will likely come away unimpressed, but with only 28 pieces being made, the Excalibur Kabuto represents a sub-segment of haute horlogerie that treats the watch case as a miniature art gallery. While some may be indifferent to the samurai motif, the quality of work — from the hand-engraved helmets on the dial to the laser-engraved precision of the crests in the rotor — is remarkable. Furthermore, the playful minimalism of the Edo castle, which from some angles looks like an enormous faceted sapphire, is an inspired work of miniature architecture. The case is identical to that of the KRT collection. It’s 45 mm and nearly 17 mm thick — height that accommodates a sapphire crystal ring underneath the bezel. This elaborate construction helps flood the miniature sculptures with light and provides a better look at the engraving work. In...
Fratello
Orient builds on its sporty Mako 40 line with five new compelling dial colors. The range introduces green, navy blue, brown, gray, and copper dégradé dials, each bringing a different personality to the collection. The last two are available only during the 2026 calendar year rather than being individually numbered limited editions. Brushed stainless steel […] Visit Introducing: Five New Orient Mako 40 Models With Gradient Dials to read the full article.
WristBuzz
Ref. SSX01B700: solid 18K Moonshine gold dial, gold crown and pushers, 11 grams of the good stuff, and CHF 500 because Swatch decided to charge 1969 gold prices. Only 1969 pieces. ESTA lottery is live.
Time+Tide
Nodus x Raven collaborate once more for the TrailTrekker Carbon, combining a forged carbon dial and bezel with a true travellers GMT movement
WristBuzz
The fourth Doxa x Clive Cussler edition. Grade 5 titanium case, sandwich-cut titanium dial in Cussler's signature colours, Sellita SW200-1 COSC-certified movement, 300m water-resistance. Limited to 300 pieces at CHF 2,890 / EUR 3,190 / USD 3,390.
Fratello
The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium adds a new dial treatment to the brand’s Jan Mayen platform. Its white perimeter gradually gives way to bright silver at the center, creating what Straum calls a reverse fumé. The result is a dial that appears to be caught right as it freezes from the outside in. This is […] Visit The Ice-Cold Anti-Summer Watch: Hands-On With The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium to read the full article.
WristBuzz
The Dial Artist brings hand-painted colour to Christopher Ward's The Twelve, and the result is one of the most visually striking affordable watches of the year
Hodinkee
What We Know This week, Vacheron Constantin added two new 34.5mm Overseas models to the collection. There's a new version in steel with a red dial and a tone-on-tone version in 18k pink gold with a matching gold-toned dial. No, these new additions aren't the most groundbreaking introductions from Vacheron in recent times, but they are quite attractive and do well to flesh out the brand's small collection of mechanical mid-sized Overseas models. The distinct visual cues of the Overseas are all present on these models, with Vacheron's Maltese cross motif prominently shown on the bezel, crown, bracelet, and buckle. Proportions of certain elements like the bezel on this smaller Overseas feel quite thick, thanks to its relative sizing compared to the very compact overall dimensions of the watch, with a diameter of 34.5mm and a thickness of 9.33mm. Water resistance is rated to 150 meters, and there is a screw-down crown. Continuing the appeal of customization across the line, both versions come with three interchangeable straps: a full metal bracelet (with toolless micro-adjust), a rubber strap, and an alligator leather strap. The interchangeable strap options for the red dial Overseas. Though Vacheron is branding this as "a feminine take on sport-chic," the two executions released this week certainly can work on a wide array of wrists, thanks to eye-catching but versatile lacquered and sunray-brushed dials. The red dial of ref. 4600V/200A-H127 stands out, not just in hue, but a...
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton (LV) has taken the covers off its latest unique Escale Autour du Monde pocket watch — the Escale en Alaska is the most complicated Escale pocket watch yet, including both a minute repeater and a tourbillon along with nine dial-side animations. Initial thoughts Possibly more than any other so-called ‘fashion brand’, LV excels in creativity and world-building, which has only become more stylish, whimsical and nuanced. The Escale en Alaska exemplifies this development, and demonstrates the breadth of artistic crafts practised by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Translating as ‘Stopovers Around the World’, the Escale Autour du Monde collection embodies the expressive flair of a leading fashion house — something many traditional watch brands simply can’t match. Following LV’s previous Escale pocket watches celebrating the beauty of Mount Fuji and the Pont-Neuf in Paris, the brand’s latest creation has looked north for inspiration, this time celebrating the desolate beauty of Alaskan glaciers and their exotic inhabitants. Arctic artistry The term ‘fashion watch’ is often used pejoratively to describe a watch with no real watchmaking value that trades solely off the fashion name, but watches like Escale en Alaska transcend this categorisation. The Escale Autour du Monde is a double-sided pocket watch with animated jacquemarts on one side and an exposed movement with an inverted hand stack on the other. The latter is unchanged from that of previous e...
WatchAdvice
Hublot’s Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM is one of those watches that leave you in awe, combining neon sapphire brilliance with high-complication tourbillon watchmaking. What We Love The bold Yellow Neon SAXEM case completely transforms under different lighting. The skeletonised dial offers a beautifully balanced design that gives the watch real mechanical theatre. Few watches in watchmaking will command attention quite like this, especially in natural light. What We Don’t The 44mm case size wears better than expected, but it is still on the larger side. Even sapphire lovers may find the Yellow Neon SAXEM a lot to handle. A black structured strap option would let the case and dial take centre stage even more, while simultaneously reducing the overall ‘distinctive’ presence of the watch. Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Wearability: 8.0/10 Build Quality: 9.0/10 Few timepieces in the world of watchmaking can grab attention like a bright yellow-coloured watch. Now imagine adding a transparent sapphire case to the mix, and suddenly, you have something that becomes almost impossible to ignore on the wrist. That is exactly what we get with the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM. This is a watch that does not ask to be seen, but rather commands it the moment you see it. In that regard, this, in my opinion, is the kind of timepiece that perfectly encapsulates what Hublot is all about. Since the beginnin...
WristBuzz
The iconic Opus gets a warm makeover with a two-tone steel and red gold case and a skeletonised dial inspired by desert dusk
WristBuzz
One Swiss surprise with a hand-painted island dial, one Seiko you can lose in a beach bag, one G-Shock for pool days, and eight more in between. Ten watches to actually enjoy on holiday, from €91 to €8,100.
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, Longines follows up its 2024 release of the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve with a new colorway, adding a light blue opaline dial to the mix. Yes, this one's just a new dial color, but it offers a completely different feel from the three previous models in the very conservative shades of cream, grey, and black. The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve serves as an homage to a 1959 model from the brand with the same kind of power reserve indication, but you can bet that they weren't doing light blue in this watch back in the day. The hue on the front is a refreshing change, but the styling on the dial otherwise remains the same, with a sector dial framing the unique power reserve indicator right in the center. What makes it interesting is that the power reserve isn't just displayed by a rotating pointer, but rather by a dance between the two discs of the power-reserve hours track and the inner pointer. This means that, depending on how you've wound the watch, the positioning of the pointer from full to empty may not always be the same on the dial. This certainly makes for a less intuitive setup, though in all fairness, this piece of information is probably secondary compared to the time and date, for things you'd need at a glance. A date window sits at twelve o'clock, nicely framed in an appliqué, and is accompanied by applied hour markers throughout. The case is well-proportioned for a wide range of wrist sizes, although rather tall for a ...
WatchAdvice
A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar brings together high complications, vintage-inspired design and a stunning pink-gold dial in one deeply romantic expression of haute horlogerie! What We Love Traditional pocket watch inspired vintage case design Pink gold dial suits this model perfectly and captures it in the best light Two romantic high-complications of rattrapante and perpetual calendar are showcased beautifully What We Don’t No lume for low-light legibility The case thickness may be large for some This classic pocket-watch inspired design may not be practical for daily wear Overall Rating: 9.4 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is one of those timepieces that immediately reminds you why the Saxon manufacture is held in such high regard. It brings together so much of what makes German watchmaking special, but does so in a way that leaves you genuinely in awe. I recently did a video on this watch, sharing my thoughts on what makes it so special, and my opinion still has not changed: this is easily one of my top three favourite models from the brand. But enough of me drooling over it, let’s get into what makes this timepiece so remarkable. The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar was first introduced in 2013 as a milestone in Lange’s modern chronograph history. As the name suggests, the timepiece brings together a rat...
Worn & Wound
There was one particular moment the Moser Streamliner clicked for me. I was fresh off my first enameling apprenticeship in the summer of 2023. At Geneva Watch Days, Moser was previewing some new models set to launch at Dubai Watch Week later that year, and one of those models was the Streamliner Small Seconds Aqua Blue. As a refresher, this is a standard mid-size 39mm build, but most importantly, it introduced an enamel dial to the collection for the first time. Let’s be clear, this isn’t any ordinary enamel dial. It starts with a hand-hammered solid gold base topped with three varying pigments of translucent aqua-blue enamel applied over the course of a whopping 12 firings to achieve the unique fume effect radiating from light to dark around the periphery. The result of the intricate process creates a visual range much broader than aqua-blue alone, evoking bright tones of turquoise and deep tones of violet in high and low light. Having just come off a week of training in an enameling atelier on far simpler designs, my degree of admiration and respect for the brand grew tenfold. This wasn’t just a beautifully streamlined (and perfectly named) take on the classic integrated bracelet sport watch – this was a true way of making a stainless steel sport watch luxurious, artisanal, and dare I say elegant. From that point forward, I started to develop a bit of an obsession with the Streamliner, and it began to inch toward my grail list of dream models. However, there’s ...
Hodinkee
Happy Friday, friends, and congrats on tackling another week. The days are now growing shorter (if you're north of the equator), and if you, like me, live in a state where fireworks are legal, best of luck for what will presumably be a very loud and long week. But before all that, let's take a moment and enjoy some watches. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Dugena and Mulco chronographs don't sell till the 27th, but the Rolex 6241 sold for 2,000,000 CHF, the Patek 5960 for 34,000 CHF, the Excelsior Park Monte Carlo passed, the Longines for TKTK (emailed, price not updated), and the Tavannes for TKTK (sells 6/25). Strays For all the Movado heads, this pocket watch looks spectacular, and if that doesn't ring your cherries, here's a gold-plated dual-time that's almost intimidatingly beautiful. My urge to recommend no-name skin divers will apparently never abate, and this week's pick is this Altitude that looks fantastic and is unlikely to sell for more than a few hundred dollars. Speaking of excellent divers, here's a Lip Nautic Ski, and, sure, it's a quartz watch from the 1970s, so (some) headaches await (though the watch is currently running, according to the listing), but I'm lately unable to shake an intense fondness for these latter Piquerez super compressor cases with their huge bezel and recessed crowns. Lastly, this Ebel is perfect; please buy it, someone, so I can stop thinking and debating if I should pursue the thing. Before getting into the main watches, I'd lik...
WristBuzz
Blancpain shrinks its ultra-thin dress watch to 38mm and debuts a first-ever sunburst salmon dial for the Villeret line
Fratello
Please meet Peacock, a Chinese watch brand that has been creating complicated timepieces since 1957, and its Haiyi Tourbillon, a 40mm limited-edition dive watch with a colorful Lindsay-engraved enameled dial in three colors. You might not be familiar with Liaoning Peacock, also known as the Peacock Watch Company, but the manufacturer from Dandong, China, is […] Visit Chinese Haute Horlogerie From “The Geneva of the East?” — The New Peacock Haiyi Tourbillon Yu Limited Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Seiko’s Presage series has long been the brand’s standard-bearer for affordable dress watches, and the latest Presage Classic Series ‘Tomioka Silk’ celebrates Japan’s 19th-century silk industry, which earned a UNESCO World Heritage designation in 2014. With an easy-wearing 38 mm case and an enthusiast-oriented no-date format, the ‘Tomioka Silk’ collection spans four colourways including an on-trend pistachio green flavour dubbed wakatake-iro. The embossed dial pattern results in a silk-like texture shimmer Initial thoughts Seiko’s Presage Classic Series has been treating watch collectors to a tour of historical Japanese hand crafts, with dials made from materials like Arita porcelain and urushi lacquer. The ‘Tomioka Silk’ collection toes a similar line, but uses a clever optical illusion to simulate the shimmer of the region’s famous silk more convincingly than past editions. While real silk dials do exist, they are understandably uncommon. Seiko’s time-tested approach to textile-textured dials involves embossing a metal dial with a pattern that, at arm’s length, resembles the source material, such as linen, or in this case, Tomioka silk. HCC002 Most watch brands would call this concentric multi-lobed motif ‘guilloche‘, but Seiko correctly avoids this term, choosing instead to emphasise the silk-like visual presentation of the stamped pattern. The dial quality is quite good for the price, which barely breaks four figures. I understand Seiko’...
SJX Watches
Twenty years since the original Venus’s debut, Dutch independent Christiaan van der Klaauw (CVDK) upgrades the concept with the Venus Annual Calendar featuring a stellar automatic movement and an austere new “astronomical” dial. The Annual Calendar supplements the more traditional Venus Zodiac, which shares the same 38 mm case and upgraded base calibre. Initial thoughts The next generation of CVDK’s Venus comes in two flavours that act as foils to each other, pitched by the brand as representing astronomy and astrology. While the Zodiac variant is a familiar blue aventurine glass affair, much like the original Venus launched back in 2006, the instrument-like white Annual Calendar version is new to the Venus family. Western sun-sign astrology divides the sky into 30° slices, each named after a constellation such as Virgo or Scorpio, with whichever slice the sun occupies being the current sign. CVDK’s planetariums normally include both an annual calendar and the 12 signs of the zodiac, so dropping the latter might seem like a loss for an astronomical watch. The duo would make an ideal set, but are currently only solid individually. However, these popular sun-signs do not match the actual locations nor sizes of the constellations. For example, the slice marked ︎ for Cancer actually contains the Gemini constellation, while Sagittarius (︎) accommodates Sagittarius and Scorpio. In some ways, the zodiacs were just bloat, and separating the two makes both watches st...
WristBuzz
A boutique-exclusive drop pairs Maen's slimmest integrated-bracelet watch with a blue fumé Côtes de Genève dial that punches well above its price.
WristBuzz
Ronaldo brought a Rainbow Daytona. Messi pulled out an off-catalog Day-Date with a turquoise dial. Casemiro is the surprise of the bunch with an F.P. Journe. Here's every wrist worth talking about from the tournament so far.
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