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Monochrome
When Urban Jürgensen returned in 2025 under the co-direction of Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield, three watches formed the inaugural collection. The UJ-2 introduced a time-only calibre with a double-wheel natural escapement; the UJ-3, an integrated perpetual calendar; while the UJ-1 Tourbillon 250th Anniversary Watch was meant to be the technical masterpiece for the return […]
Fratello
Few watches have inspired as many variations, stories, and passionate debates as the Omega Speedmaster. Over nearly seven decades, it has evolved from a racing chronograph into one of the most celebrated watches in horology, with countless references that appeal to a wide range of collectors. Ask three enthusiasts to name their favorite Speedmasters, and […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Debate — Which Model Defines The Legend? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
One of the leading names in movement development, Concepto marks its 20th year in 2026. Concepto’s founder, Valérien Jaquet, has led the company since its founding in 2006, advised by his father, Jean-Pierre Jaquet, a fabled watch entrepreneur with a controversial history. Now a vertically integrated manufacture capable of creating and producing almost every part of a watch, Concepto is one of the rare handful of movement suppliers that have survived and prospered over the economic cycles of the watch industry. Some of its peers have gone bust, like Christophe Claret, while others, like La Fabrique du Temps, have been acquired by the industry’s giants. From left: Valérien Jaquet, Jean-Pierre Jaquet, and Jacob Arabo. Image – Concepto The company released a statement for its 20th anniversary that reveals some interesting facts about a little-known but crucial aspect of the industry — the specialist suppliers that feed watch brands with movements. Concepto remains a family business boasting some impressive numbers: according to the company, last year’s sales exceeded CHF60 million while output was some 30,000 movements, including about 1,100 tourbillon calibres. According to Concepto, its client list exceeds 100 brands. The list includes names large and small — the firm helped Bulgari set the record for the world’s thinnest tourbillon, while Jacob & Co. tapped Concepto for the V-16 engine automaton in the Bugatti Tourbillon wristwatch. Even Bugatti itself turn...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Frederique Constant brings a GMT to its Riva-inspired Classics Runabout for 2026. Two dials, 888 pieces each, and a dressier take on the water watch.
Hodinkee
In 2020, watches became a real escape for a lot of us. Instagram, Facebook groups, even Clubhouse (who remembers that?) were thriving, and for me, watches had become more than a 9-5 as I fell deeper into those communities. It's where I first came across a guy on Facebook talking about a watch he'd designed that was 'inspired by a watermelon'. Every time it appeared, the comments filled with feedback as he gauged whether people were actually interested. They were. And now, six years later, that man, Richard Benc of Studio Underd0g, has just opened the doors to his very own watch assembly workshop here in the UK called 'The D0ghouse'. Roughly 45 minutes by train from Central London, the building in Maidenhead is a fusion of creative interior design and legitimate horological assembly, and anyone can experience the process first-hand. For £700, Studio Underd0g will sit you at a watchmaker's bench and guide you through the assembly of your own watch. What they're offering isn't a tour or just a showroom (they have that on-site, too), but a set of tweezers, a loupe, and an opportunity to experience the Underd0g, hands-on. That alone makes The D0ghouse worth the journey, but having just completed the experience myself, what I didn't expect was how much it would adjust my understanding of what this six-year-old brand has actually become. The Unassuming Townhouse From the outside, The D0ghouse is simply a Victorian townhouse on Park Street, the same address that Benc's friends an...
Worn & Wound
As Christopher Ward has grown in stature in recent years, it’s their most ambitious watches that have resonated the most with me, personally. Nothing against the Sealanders, Tridents, and the like, but the brand has really become interesting to me with watches like the Bel Canto and the Loco, and even the more artistic, design forward stuff like the C1 Moonphase. The Twelve collection falls into a middle ground, of sorts. The Loco, their most avant-garde watch, is built on the Twelve platform, but at its core it’s a fairly straightforward (though incredibly well made) integrated bracelet sports watch, something the hobby is not exactly in short supply of these days. But they occasionally stretch the bounds of the Twelve, exploring a variety of materials, ultra-thin case designs, and even finishing techniques. And that brings us to the latest release from the UK based brand, the all new The Twelve Xander, a 150 piece limited edition made in collaboration with The Dial Artist, otherwise known as Chris Alexander. Chris has been expanding his portfolio as of late, after getting his start in the watch world adding custom, graffiti inspired art to off-the-shelf watches. He’s now an in-demand collaborator, having worked with brands like Holthinrichs on completely original dial designs and executions. What makes this new project somewhat different is that there’s no actual “dial” for The Dial Artist to paint. The Twelve X is fully skeletonized, so Chris has added h...
Monochrome
Norqain has never been afraid to inject colour and fun into its robust sports watches. The new Freedom GMT Enjoy Life “Holiday” is one of the brand’s most playful creations. Based on the Freedom GMT and its true GMT movement made by Kenissi, this new 500-piece edition is a colourful celebration of holidays, adventures, and […]
Monochrome
Many of the overtly vintage design cues of Montblanc’s 1858 collection are inspired by Minerva’s military watches from the 1930s, renowned for their precision and legibility in extreme conditions. Promoted as rugged, reliable companions for mountaineering and outdoor adventures, the 1858 Geosphere combines its retro looks with a worldtimer featuring two rotating globes depicting the […]
Fratello
I have a massive soft spot for small, independent brands. That doesn’t just apply to watches. I love it when people dare to stick their necks out and chase (probably naive) dreams in real life outside of the realm of big luxury groups. The results also tend to speak to me. These brands typically follow […] Visit Indies Only! Dreaming Up My Ideal Microbrand-Only Watch Collection to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Citizen’s, quirky, star-struck brand is back with a pair of limited edition Eco-Drive complications — the Campanola Kōjō ref. BU0020-71N in stainless steel with blue dial, and the blacked-out ref. BU0024-02N, inspired by shooting stars. Campanola’s sculptural approach to dials is alive and well, proving Citizen’s ongoing technical leadership in the field of solar-powered watches. Initial thoughts Launched in the year 2000, Campanola is an astronomically inclined sub-brand of Citizen Watch Co., contending with Seiko’s Astron and Casio’s Oceanus collection in the premium multi-function solar quartz segment, but with a more refined aesthetic. In the last decade, the brand has branched out into mechanical watches which maintained the Campanola design language and external quality — the Kasanekyo 20th Anniversary limited edition features one of my favourite raden dials. However, some of the brand’s mechanical watches were arguably diminished by the use of generic Swiss automatic movements like the Sellita SW300-1, which was paired with a Jaquet big-date module in the aforementioned Kasanekyo 20th Anniversary limited edition. This limited edition duo is a return to form for the brand, with complicated Eco-Drive calibres that offer the full Campanola experience, as well as better value. Of course, that comes with the usual tradeoffs, namely a 14.8 mm case height. That is mitigated by the rather wide 43.5 mm case diameter, which makes the height proportionally r...
Worn & Wound
Good things are worth the wait, according to Frederique Constant. Every two years, the Geneva-based watchmaker releases a new collector’s piece in their sought-after Classics Runabout collection, which represents, according to the brand, the combination of Genevan craftsmanship and Italian nautical influence. The 2026 model has been, of course, highly-anticipated; the Classics Runabout Automatic GMT represents a new chapter in Frederique Constant’s celebrated line. The new GMT model, presented in collaboration with the Riva Historical Society, brings a 42mm footprint and two colorways: deep blue and teak-brown. Both models and their aesthetics are inspired by boats restored by the Riva Historical Society, and come with a miniature replica of said boat. The polished stainless steel case features three-part construction, and a midrange thickness of 12.85mm, giving it a decently chunky presence on the wrist. Still, the larger size is deceptive, given the bezel-less design; the GMT instead features an outer 60-second track, and a center 24-hour disk, giving it a filled-out look that slims the watch down visually. Arabic numerals appear at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock, and hand-applied indexes fill in the remainder of the hour markers, with a date window nestled at 6 o’clock. What results is a balanced dial that feels both busy and calm, given the limited color pallet, with blue and brown dial options both rounded out by beige-gold numerals and text details. All hands and ind...
Fratello
Usually, watches are all about perfect symmetry and flawless finishing. The case is often round with even lugs, and carefully applied mirror polishing and brushing are combined to create contrast and accentuate the watch’s shape. Things are a little different with the new Anoma A1 Prehistoric, though. Of course, it already starts with its signature […] Visit Handmade Imperfections Turn The Anoma A1 Prehistoric Into A Beautiful, Wearable Timekeeping Sculpture to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Being able to tap the collections of fabled museums like the Louvre, Vacheron Constantin recently revealed the second instalment of Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations. The collection once again comprises four watches inspired by the ancient world, spanning Assyria to the Roman Empire: Buste d’Akhénaton, Lamassu de Sargon II, Athéna de Velletrie, and Tiber de l’Iseum Campense. Each watch essentially contains a miniature replica of a statue from the Louvre that is surrounded by decoration in a variety of techniques ranging from enamelling to stone mosaic. Buste d’Akhénaton inspired by Ancient Egypt Initial thoughts VC rolls out a well-stocked Metiers d’Art collection every year, and the appeal is varied. The good ones, however, are great, usually combining multiple decorative techniques, artful aesthetic execution, and tremendous appeal. Boosting its Metiers d’Art programme, VC has inked agreements with world-class museums like the Louvre and the Met, which allow the brand to source inspiration from the vast troves of objects housed in these institutions. All of that is captured in the latest Tribute To Great Civilisations, which qualifies as amongst the best Metiers d’Art offerings from VC. Each of the watches in the quartet manages to evoke the civilisations and objects that served as inspiration. Tiber de l’Iseum Campense of the Roman Empire While striking from a distance, each watch still reveals an impressive degree of detail up close. Mos...
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! Apologies for the late publishing time, but a baby and World Cup 2026 have us keeping odd hours. This week, we target a humorous but potentially dangerous subject. Misleading words when describing a watch, especially a vintage one, are rife within our hobby, so we attempt […] Visit Fratello On Air: These Are The Most Misleading Words In Watch Ads to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
They say good things come to those who wait. It’s almost a decade since Isotope launched their Rider Jumping Hour, and has introduced a variety of GMTs, dive watches, chronographs and dress watches since then, without revisiting one of my favorite complications. It feels like a couple of years ago that Isotope founder José Miranda began to tease the long awaited follow up to watch enthusiasts at events across the globe. Last August the OVNI Jumping Hour Founders Edition was finally unveiled to the world. The 150 Founders Edition watches sold out during the pre-order period, and now a production piece has landed on my desk. Since its inception, the OVNI has promised to be an other-worldly timepiece, from its name right through to its flying saucer form, and at first glance it hasn’t shied away from that aspiration. So, how easy is it to live with a UFO on your wrist? When talking about the OVNI, it makes sense to start with the case. Named OVNI (the Portuguese equivalent of Unidentified Flying Object is Objeto Voador Nãu Identificado), the body of the watch is designed to mimic the traditional flying saucer shape associated with UFOs throughout the years. Crafted from 904L stainless steel and given a brushed finish, the case is an oblate spheroid, slightly flatter on the back than the front. It resembles a perfect ball of steel that has been left out in the hot, hot sun. Smooth and organic, yet dense and alien. The lugs and crown are attached to the case rather than f...
Monochrome
The Divers Date is one of the most recognisable watches in the modern Oris collection, tracing its design inspiration back to the brand’s first dive-ready watch of 1965. For several years, this retro look was popularised by the Divers Sixty-Five, introduced in 2015 and offered in countless colours, materials and configurations. In 2024, however, Oris thoroughly […]
Worn & Wound
In our over-saturated world of often austere dive watches and overwrought Explorer-likes, Studio Underd0g’s lineup is a continued breath of fresh, colorful air. The British brand’s signature style takes playful color schemes and theming, and applies them to rock-solid mechanical underpinnings to create a series of sporty timepieces that are instantly distinguishable from anything else on the market. Their 02SERIES of field watches, originally launched in 2023, has proven massively popular, with its “floating” numerals and deliciously bright seven-layer dials, topped off with a sapphire disc for depth effect. Joining that line is the GEN2 wave, which sees two new colorways, a slimmer case design, and some more mechanical tricks. The GEN2 is housed in a familiar 316L stainless steel case, slimmed down to 11.5mm in thickness, a 37.5mm diameter measurement, and a 18mm lug width. This makes it, deceptively, slightly bigger in diameter than the original 02SERIES watches, but noticeably thinner, giving it a lighter profile on the wrist despite the size difference. Inside beats the stalwart Sellita SW200-2 M manual-winding movement with hacking, though the power reserve has also been tinkered with, now offering 63 hours of off-the-wrist time before the hands stop. The two-part case construction, screw-down case back with jellyfish motif, and signed crown add touches of refinement to the otherwise fairly simple 02SSERIES GEN2 watches, and all come with a matching, colorway-...
Fratello
Three years ago, Richard Benc and his Studio Underd0g brand released the 02Series collection. The design was based on the iconic Dirty Dozen field watches, with the addition of Studio Underd0g’s typical playful sauce, of course. That resulted in four versions, all of which shared the same layered dial construction. Except for the matte black […] Visit Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection to read the full article.
Deployant
Sartory-Billard marks its tenth anniversary with the SB10 250th Anniversary: a jumping hour watch built around an exposed American copper cabochon, CNC-engraved in the United States and hand-patinated in Scotland, assembled in France. Available to order July 4–11, 2026 only. The following post is based on press release information. Editorial commentary appears in italics. New:Read More
Monochrome
Look at most analogue watches, and you’ll see central hour and minute hands, and the majority have central seconds as well. It’s a perfected design that can be traced back to Ancient Egypt, when sundial shadows moved across the dial plate in a clockwise rotation. We’ve already looked at Unconventional Ways Watches Can Relay Time […]
Worn & Wound
I’m not going to say I’m biased toward celestial watches to a fault, but as the resident astrology girl, I’m most certainly a little biased anytime a watch incorporates the stars, moon, or planets. Whether you check your horoscope or not, there’s something undeniably alluring about the constellations and the shapes they take – one that connects us to the vastness of time and space, to a very ancient human desire to make sense of the universe, or, in the case of Apiar’s latest limited edition Gen 1.1 White Meridian, one that connects you to a very specific place and time. It’s no coincidence that horology and astrology have long gone hand in hand and that the imagery of celestial bodies have long appeared in watchmaking (more on that in a future story I’ve been spinning up for some time now). I digress, today, Apiar adds another timepiece to this longstanding horological lineage with its next special edition version of the Gen 1.1.As a refresher, the Gen 1.1 is quite new to the brand’s catalog, marking an evolution from the brand’s core Gen 1.0 line. Apiar first debuted the Gen 1.1 earlier this year at the British Watchmaker’s Day festivities. The collection kicked off with a highly limited edition of just three pieces called the Underground, aptly named for its hand-enameled dial inspired by Dr. Maxwell Roberts’ circular redesign of the London Underground map. The model was such a success it was later followed by the Night Tube edition, which you ...
Fratello
Kiwame Tokyo is a brand I began covering in 2025. The Asakusa-based company makes classically designed watches while keeping affordability in mind. So far, this strategy seems to be working. With every new release, the pieces receive almost universal praise and sell at lightning-fast speed. Today, we take a look at the newest trio of […] Visit Is The New Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Beating The Big Names At Their Own Game? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Straum has announced a new permanent addition to their popular Jan Mayen Collection of sports watches, the all new Frozen Metal Titanium. While at a quick glance you could be forgiven for thinking this is simply an iterative redeployment of a proven sports watch formula, there are actually a handful of notable upgrades when you start looking at it a little more closely. Like just about every other watch Straum makes, it takes inspiration from the natural landscape and a spirit of outdoor exploration, but here we also have some additional refinements and hints at potential new aesthetic directions that will have many enthusiasts curious about the brand’s future. The first notable upgrade on the Frozen Metal Titanium is right there in the name of the watch. While not their first grade 5 titanium model, it does represent the debut of their long awaited grade 5 titanium bracelet. It has a blasted finish to match the case and an H-link design, and Straum says that it is fully backward compatible with other titanium watches in their catalog. That’s a big win for Straum’s existing customers, and makes good on what amounts to a social compact a brand makes when they develop an integrated bracelet sports watch: provide workable strap and bracelet options that your early adopters can take advantage of. The other new developments here can be found in the dial treatment. Straum is using a new galvanic treatment for this dial execution that they say “frosts” the edges of ...
Monochrome
When your brand name is a contraction of three historic French car manufacturers – Delage, Panhard and Facel Vega – the automotive theme is more than a passing reference. Founded in 2018 by engineer and motorsport enthusiast Clément Meynier, Depancel‘s core products focus on sporty racing watches and chronographs. The distinctive rectangular Serie-R collection welcomes […]
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: A break this week from reader submissions of our ongoing 3 for 5k column to make room for an entry from Worn & Wound contributor Cait Bazemore. Cait is a watch industry veteran and her choices reflect her experience in the space in an interesting way. Specifically, they are all tied to her connections with the people behind the brands. This is a phenomenon most of us who work in watches for any length of time eventually come to understand. It just feels good to support the people we connect with (even when it’s hypothetical support for a Worn & Wound column). And honestly, this isn’t exclusive to watch industry professionals. Anyone who has attended a Windup event or any other watch fair and taken a minute to speak with a brand owner can probably relate. Today, I notch another rite of passage as a contributor at Worn & Wound: my three-watch collection for under $5,000. The mission is clear, but I have to be honest, it was much more challenging than I expected. This exercise taught me a lot about myself, what I value, and how that actually translates to a dollar figure. I’ll confess, I realized a majority of my most desired watches sit around the $2,700 to $3,300 range – multiply that times three, and the total is well over the $5,000 mark. I had to carefully consider three timepieces that fell roughly around $1,500 each and that would make a well-rounded three-watch collection: a dress watch, a sport watch, and a wild card seemed like obvious ...
Monochrome
Since its revival in 2017, the Captain Cook has become one of Rado’s greatest success stories. Originally introduced in 1962, the collection has grown into a very diverse family, ranging from compact vintage-inspired divers to high-tech ceramic models, skeleton watches and chronographs. Rado has also experimented with materials, colours and finishes while preserving the distinctive character […]
Fratello
The Grand Départ of the 2026 Tour de France is just days away, and what better moment to introduce the Breitling Top Time B01 Eddy Merckx? It’s a watch honoring “The Cannibal,” the man who won five Tour de France titles and 525 victories in total. The Belgian legend earned his ferocious nickname due to […] Visit Allez, Allez, Allez! Introducing The Tour De France Yellow Breitling Top Time B01 Eddy Merckx to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Grand Seiko quartz and mechanical watches both have serious appeal, but after hands-on time with the SBGV233 and SBGH295, one became the easier watch to recommend.
SJX Watches
Most recently the chief executive of TAG Heuer, Antoine Pin has just started in the top job at De Bethune, the independent watchmaker owned by American watch retail giant The 1916 Company. De Bethune in its entirety sells as many watches in a year as a single TAG Heuer boutique does in a few months, so the scale is entirely different, as is the price segment and target audience. It’s almost a certainty that Mr Pin was tapped by De Bethune’s owners to take the brand to the next level in terms of size and reach, an ambition that now seems realistic given the success of F.P. Journe. Mr Pin will lead De Bethune alongside Denis Flageollet, the brand’s cofounder who has been its technical driving force since the beginning. He takes over from Pierre Jacques, a two-time chief executive of De Bethune who ran the brand from 2010 to 2015, and then again from 2017 to 2025 after a change in ownership. With an extensive track record in watchmaking going all the way back to Sainte-Croix in the 1990s, Mr Flageollet’s technical prowess is unquestionable; amongst his recent creations is the Sympathique clock in collaboration with Louis Vuitton. His watchmaking talent will be complemented by Mr Pin’s management and marketing know-how, skills honed over two decades at LVMH, where he climbed the ranks and held various management roles at Berluti, Bulgari, and Zenith. He was chief executive of TAG Heuer for almost 18 months before a surprise departure at the start of 2026.
Monochrome
With more than 500 film and television appearances, Hamilton, the “watchmaker of filmmakers“, is creating bespoke watches for directors, supplying existing models to define characters and developing timepieces that are part of the film’s narrative or extend beyond the screen. Christopher Nolan has been one of Hamilton’s creative partners, with memorable collaborations such as Interstellar […]
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