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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Highlights: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2021 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2021 Patek Jun 17, 2021

Highlights: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2021

Patek Philippe went big at its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition that just opened at its Geneva Salon. The watchmaker unveiled  the 75 timepieces of this year’s Rare Handcrafts collection, along with as many more from last year’s line up that is on show for the first time, since the 2020 exhibition was cancelled. The most accessible watches of the collection, relatively speaking, are the complicated watches that will join the regular catalogue, which include a trio of chiming watches, from the graceful minute repeater for ladies to the new Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R But it is the rest of the Rare Handcrafts collection that capture the creativity and diversity the brand’s metiers d’art. Each unique, the watches and clocks are mechanically uncomplicated, and instead use the dial and case as a canvas to showcase exquisite, vivid depictions of animals, landscapes, and art with a variety of artisanal techniques. Here’s a selection of a few standouts from this year’s collection, all one-off creations that are expensive but usually sold in advance, so most will be dispatched to their owners after the exhibition. Dome clocks One of Patek Philippe’s most distinctive timepieces is not a watch, but the round-topped table clock. A fixture in its catalogue for decades, the Dome Clock is produced in small numbers every year, typically with its exterior panels decorated in enamel. This year’s Rare Handcrafts catalogue includes...

INTRODUCING: The Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic is an eco-friendly summer watch Time+Tide
Hublot or Rado’s latest twist Jun 16, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic is an eco-friendly summer watch

I do love the idea of a ceramic watch in bold colours like the flashy drama of Hublot or Rado’s latest twist on the Captain Cook. But I’m still waiting for the first budget version of this cool material to try on for size. The new Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic series might present the Swiss … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic is an eco-friendly summer watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video Time+Tide
Cartier Crash Jun 16, 2021

The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video

The Cartier Crash is a bit of an enigma in the history of the French brand. The story behind its Salvador Dali-esque design is far-fetched – a Cartier Tank was returned for repair to the London boutique after being in a car crash, the unusual shape the result of the gold melting in the heat … ContinuedThe post The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7040/250G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 16, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7040/250G

While the Sky Moon Tourbillon introduced at the same time is bold and over the top, the Rare Handcrafts Ladies’ Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G is graceful and delicately detailed. Now the only minute repeater for ladies in the catalogue, the ref. 7040/250G features a dial with spiral guilloche covered in translucent enamel, match with unusual, spear-shaped hands and markers. Initial thoughts The ref. 7040/250G is surprisingly reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s men’s watch of the 1990s with its “officer’s” case. In fact, that case is quite close to that of the ref. 5029, the limited-edition minute repeater made in 1997 to commemorate the opening of its factory in Plans-les-Ouates. That resemblance is a good thing, because the ref. 5029 was an elegant, classical watch. The new repeater shares similar lines, but has been tastefully dressed up as a ladies watch with a diamond bezel and guilloche dial. The dial is a first for Patek Philippe, and certainly good looking. There’s a hint of Laurent Ferrier design in the dial, but again, the resemblance isn’t a bad thing. All in all, the ref. 7040/250G is an all-rounder – a pretty watch with a finely detailed dial and a complex movement. Svelte dimensions Slightly larger than the preceding minute repeater for ladies (the ref. 7000 that was 33.7 mm), the ref. 7040/250G has a case of 18k white gold that measures just 36 mm by 10.14 mm high – more or less the dimensions the men’s minute repeater of the 1990s. The rou...

The Rolex Daytona gets a wild blue remix from Artisans de Genève Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona gets Jun 16, 2021

The Rolex Daytona gets a wild blue remix from Artisans de Genève

After picking my jaw off the ground, I was surprised by my wide-eyed delight with Artisans de Genève’s irreverent take on the Rolex Daytona. I was surprised because, truth be told, this is not a model I am particularly enamored with. I’ve had my fill of all the endless fawning over vintage Daytonas. In fact, … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Daytona gets a wild blue remix from Artisans de Genève appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Announcing the ‘Pink Dial Project’ – an auction of pink prototypes in aid of breast cancer Time+Tide
Jun 15, 2021

Announcing the ‘Pink Dial Project’ – an auction of pink prototypes in aid of breast cancer

The watch industry has always had a charitable streak, but never as conspicuously as it does today. Charity auctions have been a key part of the industry’s calendar for years, with the Only Watch Auction that raises money for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, earning headlines for the watches if offers and the money it contributes. Lately … ContinuedThe post Announcing the ‘Pink Dial Project’ – an auction of pink prototypes in aid of breast cancer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Why the new Facebook watch could be a hard sell Time+Tide
Jun 15, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Why the new Facebook watch could be a hard sell

As reported last week by Alex Heath for The Verge, Facebook is reported to be working on its very own smartwatch, due for launch in the middle of 2022. This will be the first time the tech giant is making a play for your wrist real estate, taking on the mighty Apple Watch which remains … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why the new Facebook watch could be a hard sell appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune Introduces the DB25GMT Starry Varius SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Jun 15, 2021

De Bethune Introduces the DB25GMT Starry Varius

While the pandemic is not entirely in the rearview mirror yet, international travel is recovering slowly but surely, so De Bethune’s latest arrives at an opportune time. The DB25GMT Starry Varius is a gently updated version of its dual time zone wristwatch – smaller, thinner, and lighter than the original, while also sporting the brand’s trademark “Starry Night” dial. More classical than the brand’s best-known models like the DB28 or DW5, the DB25GMT nonetheless incorporates details that are quintessentially De Bethune in addition to the celestial motif dial, helping it stand out amongst dual-time watches. Initial thoughts If money was no object, the first watch I would buy is my “grail”, the De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Tourbillon. It has an ethereal quality and technical innovations that capture both the mind and heart. Unsurprisingly, I love the DB25GMT Starry Varius, which has a similar style but is more practical. The star-studded dial is a modest upgrade, but one that significantly improves the aesthetics of the brand’s original dual time-zone watch that was launched in 2016. Matching it with a travel-time complication makes sense as a historical reference, since explorers once depended on the stars for navigation – making the design feel like a match made in heaven (pun intended). The multiple-part dial gives the watch visual depth despite the clean layout, certainly making it one of the most captivating travel watches. But the new dual ...

Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay? Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Jun 15, 2021

Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay?

We’ve grown used to seeing jaw-dropping auction results for two brands: Rolex and Patek Philippe. But recently, the prices of one French-founded jewellery and watchmaking house have begun to climb. That’s right, Cartier is hot, with prices rising not only across the more common models, but also the top lots in auction catalogues. But what … ContinuedThe post Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Time+Tide
Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Jun 15, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm

Divers are among the most popular watches on the market, if not the most popular, due to their highly robust builds and familiar aesthetic. As a result, the segment is highly competitive and brands now have to find fresh ways to draw interest to their references. Fully aware of this trend, Oris has really begun … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors Time+Tide
Jun 14, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors

Editor’s note:  Recently I spoke to a former salesman at a high-end Australian watch retailer. He told me that his store didn’t have a “passive waiting list” where you’re rewarded for patiently queuing up. In fact, to disoblige customers of that notion, the shop preferred a more pointedly ambiguous term: “the expression of interest list”. … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Bold field watches for under $500 in the MAS Watches Arcticus range Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Bold field watches for under $500 in the MAS Watches Arcticus range

What’s in a name? Quite a lot in this case. MAS Watches was started in 2019 by Australian Matthew Francis, a watch enthusiast who shares his love of watches with his young son, Tate. His brand’s name is a direct nod to this family background – MAS stands for Matthew and Son.  Fortunately, this cute … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Bold field watches for under $500 in the MAS Watches Arcticus range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection… Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2021

Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection…

All too often we discuss watches as assets. Usually when we hear about people selling pieces from their collection it is part of an effort to fund the next watch – something I am well documented in doing. But when you reach a certain collection tier, or have the right references, moving such watches can … ContinuedThe post Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What jewellery to wear with your watch (according to Jeff Goldblum’s stylist) Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2021

What jewellery to wear with your watch (according to Jeff Goldblum’s stylist)

Our European editor, Mike Christensen, teams up with Andrew Vottero – Jeff Goldblum’s personal stylist – to help fellow timepiece aficionados ensure any bling they wear is complementing their watches and not detracting from them. We all love watches, that much we can agree on. But are we wearing them correctly with other pieces of … ContinuedThe post What jewellery to wear with your watch (according to Jeff Goldblum’s stylist) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs Time+Tide
Grand Seiko but Jun 12, 2021

#Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs

Seiko diving watches are invariably fantastic. But we all eagerly anticipate the deep blue hues and structured dials of the Save The Ocean releases which, for me, are yearly high points within the Prospex range for dial art, coming close to the brilliance of big brother Grand Seiko, but at great prices. Here, we’re pairing … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise Jun 12, 2021

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise

Aston Martin was originally partnered with Jaeger-LeCoultre for 12 years before moving on to first Richard Mille then TAG Heuer and finally Girard-Perregaux. During that dozen years, the JLC Amvox line produced some very interesting timepieces. Here, Elizabeth Doerr provides background to the the sporty Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox line and lists off every single creation introduced in it during that time.

6 Hublot Soccer Ambassadors Ready For The European Championships With The Big Bang e UEFA Euro 2020 Quill & Pad
Hublot Soccer Ambassadors Ready Jun 11, 2021

6 Hublot Soccer Ambassadors Ready For The European Championships With The Big Bang e UEFA Euro 2020

In the spirit of enjoying soccer again at the highest level, Elizabeth Doerr highlights six Hublot ambassadors and friends of the brand associated with Euro 2020. They'll be wearing the limited edition Big Bang e UEFA Euro 2020 smartwatch, which features an app dedicated to soccer enabling users to follow the competition in real time.

VIDEO: The Mido Ocean Star Tribute is a rugged diver that punches well above its pay grade Time+Tide
Mido Jun 11, 2021

VIDEO: The Mido Ocean Star Tribute is a rugged diver that punches well above its pay grade

Mido are an oddity in the watch world. They’re not a mega-brand, being a subsidiary of Swatch Group towards the affordable end of the ladder, yet they still manage to be one of the few brands whose limited-edition releases can sell for well over their original retail price, as seen with the Ocean Star Decompression … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Mido Ocean Star Tribute is a rugged diver that punches well above its pay grade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Unboxing the Audemars Piguet Black Panther with Anthony Joshua Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Black Panther Jun 11, 2021

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Unboxing the Audemars Piguet Black Panther with Anthony Joshua

When it was first announced that Audemars Piguet and Marvel would be collaborating on a watch, social media lit up with criticism of the project. Yet only a couple of months later, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon has been seen on the wrists of more taste makers than you can … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Unboxing the Audemars Piguet Black Panther with Anthony Joshua appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to avoid getting scammed when you sell your watch and Grand Seiko blue snow Time+Tide
Grand Seiko blue snow You don’t Jun 10, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to avoid getting scammed when you sell your watch and Grand Seiko blue snow

You don’t hear about watch scams very often. So when the inside story of a fiendish attempt recently emerged, we interviewed the gentleman who almost became the victim. Gautaman Senivasan is a Singapore watch collector and trader who invited a prospective buyer into his home to inspect some watches he was selling. What happened next … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to avoid getting scammed when you sell your watch and Grand Seiko blue snow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGY007 may just be the pared back snowflake you’ve been waiting for Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGY007 may just be Jun 9, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGY007 may just be the pared back snowflake you’ve been waiting for

Whenever I discuss Grand Seiko with other collectors many express that they like the heritage Spring Drive models, but if the brand made a few minor layout changes they would absolutely love them. Personally, I have no qualms with the usual date and power reserve complications that are present, but I understand the purists’ sensibilities … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGY007 may just be the pared back snowflake you’ve been waiting for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EVENT: Rado hosts the first brand sponsored meetup in NYC since COVID Time+Tide
Rado hosts Jun 9, 2021

EVENT: Rado hosts the first brand sponsored meetup in NYC since COVID

The best way to describe 2020 is that it was a black hole. Obviously there were far more serious casualties and situations, but the watch community sorely missed being able to get together and share our love for watches. Fortunately, the rising social media platform Clubhouse filled the void, but as we like to say … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Rado hosts the first brand sponsored meetup in NYC since COVID appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Unveils the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Unveils Jun 9, 2021

Bell & Ross Unveils the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic

First introduced exactly a decade ago, the BR 01-92 Red Radar was one of the brand’s first wristwatches to reproduce a fighter jet’s instrument display, using a red-tinted sapphire crystal and rotating discs to create a dial resembling a flight radar display. A striking and clever idea, the flight-radar time display was unique even amongst the numerous aviation-instrument watches of Bell & Ross (B&R;). Now B&R; is revisiting the concept with the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic, which once again features a radar display but now in the more wearable BR 03 case. Initial thoughts On the surface, the new BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic isn’t especially novel. The ceramic case is essentially the same used for last year’s BR 03-92 HUD, while the radar display is modelled on the 2011 original. However, the new Red Radar is a clever rendition of the idea, and a substantial improvement over the earlier version. For one, the case is now 42 mm, making it significantly more wearable than the 46 mm original. And the original also had a black-coated steel case – which typically shows wear and tear as the coating separates from the metal below – while the new model has a ceramic case also that’s scratch-resistant and generally more durable, meaning it will seem pristine even after years of use (though hard knocks or drops can chip or crack ceramic). And the new Red Radar has a more practical dial design than its predecessor, which had hands printed to mimic the sweep of a radar scan, ...