Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A Guide To Collecting The Patek Philippe 5970 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The "last of the Lemanias" remains the king of contemporary Patek complicated collecting over a decade removed from its discontinuation.
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Hodinkee
The "last of the Lemanias" remains the king of contemporary Patek complicated collecting over a decade removed from its discontinuation.
Worn & Wound
In the world of the micro indie that is quickly becoming one our favorite emerging spaces in the watch industry, Holthinrichs Watches has been a longtime favorite. With their latest creation, the aptly named Deconstructed, they move to another level (or at least another price bracket) but retain much of the aesthetic and craft that originally captivated much of the Worn & Wound editorial team when we discovered their 3-D printed watches several years ago. The new watch is their most ambitious yet by a large margin, incorporating a new in-house movement and pushing the limits of their manufacturing process seemingly as far as they’ll go. If you look back on the watches they were making just a few years ago, the Deconstructed represents a fairly enormous leap in confidence and conviction in what the brand is doing. It’s genuinely exciting. As the name of the watch implies, the Deconstructed is all about the piecing together of individual component parts. The 3-D printing process that Holthinrichs uses allows for an incredible amount of flexibility in designing each part of the case, allowing them to achieve an aesthetic result that would not be possible with more traditional manufacturing methods. For the Deconstructed, a focus has been placed on skeletonization, with each 3-D printed part reduced to the bare minimum of material (titanium, in this case), for a watch that is airy, lightweight, and a logical extension of the Holthinrichs watches that came before it. Th...
Worn & Wound
Aera Instruments is a brand based in the UK that just unveiled their second collection, consisting of incremental updates to their D-1 and P-1 diver and pilot watches. The D-1 Ocean Diver is a blue version of the black watch that debuted last year, and it has a couple of small less visible refinements that improve the overall experience Aera is providing. The choices they made – what to update, and what not to update – reveal something about where the brand might be heading, and what they deem important. I had a chance to briefly handle the initial D-1 and P-1 releases last year, and while I thought they were completely fine, they didn’t linger in the mind the way some watches do. I’ve been wearing the D-1 for about a week now, though, and find myself really enjoying the subtly complex design choices and distinctly contemporary vibe of this dive watch. $1600 [Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver Case 904L Steel Movement Sellita SW200-1 Elabore Grade Dial Blue Lume Globolight markers Lens Sapphire Strap Rubber Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 40 x 49.8mm Thickness 16mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1600 Notable Specs and Features Looking through the spec sheet, the number that will likely jump out at most people right away is the D-1’s diameter: a healthy 44mm. And that’s not the only large number you’ll find when you take your calipers to the case. The lug to lug is 49.8mm, the lug width is 22mm, and the case height (to th...
Time+Tide
The Certina DS Action Diver is now available in a stealthy black finish. The 43mm case is tamed by the black PVD and a 13.1mm thickness. It’s powered by the Powermatic 80, with an 80-hour power reserve. The growth of Certina’s catalogue in the last couple of years has been especially fun to watch as … ContinuedThe post The Certina DS Action Diver takes a trip to the darkside appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watches and military history have an unbreakable bond. You only need to think back to the very beginnings of the wristwatch as a tool. During the Anglo-Burma War and First Boer War, soldiers began to strap pocket watch cases with primitive soldered lugs to their wrists, which opened the door for a new market. Fast-forward … ContinuedThe post How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Revolution
As America’s #1 Gold Record Award-winning group of all time, KISS is easily one of rock’s most influential bands. The Rock N Roll Hall of Famers have released 44 albums, sold more than 100 million albums worldwide, and toured for over 40 years. In this edition of The Ele Series, Eleonor sits down with the […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A full review of the quartz Tissot PRX watch in steel featuring an integrated bracelet. Read more for specs, pricing, photos, and history.
Worn & Wound
Since 2017, Rado has partnered with the Great Gardens of the World organization on watches that are inspired both by nature and the sometimes meticulous preparation of the world’s great gardens. Watchmaking and gardening might seem like an unlikely match at first, but this series is really an opportunity for Rado designers to use the natural world as a starting point for their work, which isn’t so different from what brands like Grand Seiko have been doing for years. It’s interesting to see Rado’s take on a “nature” watch, though, as they apply texture and materials in markedly different ways than other brands, coming up with watches that are very distinctly their own, with a focus on materials and highlighting Rado’s unique visual design language. The latest watches in the series are all inspired by specific plants found in different corners of the world, but are currently on the endangered species list. They have dynamic, textured dials and use Rado’s True Thinline ceramic case and bracelet platform as a starting point. First up is Chapter 8 (it’s the 8th watch in this ongoing series), inspired by the Hawaiian Loulu Lelo plant, which has distinct pleated leaves. The dial is broken up into separate sectors that have the pleats running in opposite directions, creating an almost psychedelic effect that is common to this series. While the Loulu Lelo leaves are a verdant green, this watch has been rendered entirely in black ceramic, with contrasting gold t...
Hodinkee
It's shaping up to be the summer of great skin divers
WatchAdvice
It’s not often that we get a dress watch to review, and even rarer that I would wear a more dressier watch around for a week or so, but the IWC Portofino held it’s own and even got out to an event or two where I could really show it off. What We Love Clean easy to read dialClassic looks that won’t date39mm size wears well What We Don’t Lack of see through case backNo Date displayNot easy to read in low light with no lume Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 The Portofino collection has been around since 1984 in the IWC catalogue, and offers an alternative to the Portugieser range for those wanting a slightly smaller and more elegant piece on their wrist. If you’ve kept up with my other articles around dress watches, many of you may know that I’m not massively into dress watches but was keen to try out the new IWC Portofino Chronograph 39mm. It’s a watch that grows on you. If you’re like me and not naturally inclined to wear more formal watches, then you really need to spend time with the Portofino to appreciate it. You probably should also be the person that can either pull off a more dressier watch with casual clothes, or have places to wear this, like more formal events, business attire at the office or even just a nice dinner out where you can admire the watch in the dimmer restaurant lighting. Given I’m not an office worker anymore, I opted for the event and dinners out options to show this piec...
Video
SJX Watches
Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has revealed the newest iteration of his trademark complication, the Lunations Black Ruthenium. Equipped with his proprietary moon phase movement, the Lunations moon phase is so accurate it will accumulate a mere one-day discrepancy after 14,000 years. Limited to just ten pieces, this is a variant of a model first introduced a dozen years ago, but remains the brand’s most complex wristwatch. Initial thoughts The Lunations has all of the Sarpaneva design elements, including the moon “face”, open-worked dial (which in this case is actually the movement), laser engraved decoration as well as hand finishing, so it resembles many of the brand’s other watches. But the Lunations is actually one of the most complex watches devised by Sarpaneva. The Lunations is unusual in combining both the brand’s recognisable design with an original movement, one developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, whereas most of Sarpaneva’s other watches are powered by simpler, outsourced movements. Constructed in a novel manner with a two-disc moon phase display that’s so large it’s almost the diameter of the movement, the calibre inside is both interesting and complex. However, a moon phase complication is usually simple – and inexpensive – in most other watches. Consequently, the Lunations feels pricey with its €39,500 price tag, particularly so considering that Sarpaneva’s other moon phase models powered by outsourced movements cost hal...
Time+Tide
Their name may not be as recognised as Rolex by the hoi polloi, but Singaporean microbrand Boldr Supply Co. has long been something of an insider’s secret among watch collectors. A winning combination of adventurous designs, fantastic build quality, and sought-after specs, all at “how do they do it?” prices, have made Boldr a favourite … ContinuedThe post Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix dropped some surprising news this week by announcing that the Pontos S Diver will be making a return. First released 10 years ago, the Pontos S Diver was short-lived once the brand decided to move their focus to the Aikon watch, which has taken a number of forms in the intervening years. The Pontos S Diver always hit a bit differently, though, and we’re thrilled to see it making a comeback in a very similar fashion to what it once was (for better or worse), as there’s never enough good looking internal bezel divers out there. The new Pontos S Diver gets a familiar design right out of the box, which is a good thing in many ways, though perhaps a hindrance in others. The simple dial gets long hour and minute markers reaching into the dial against a set of straight hands with a slight taper, framed by the internal rotating bezel which gets the only numerals in sight outside of the date aperture at 6 o’clock. There’s not much to it, but Maurice Lacroix gets the proportions of everything just right, capturing the timeless appeal of this look. The internal bezel can be adjusted by the crown at 2 o’clock on the case, which appears to stick out a touch further than the original design, but the contrasting ring at the base of the crown remains. Unlike the original examples, the date disc has been color matched to the dial. The steel case measures 42mm in diameter, shedding a single millimeter from the original’s size, and comes in a hair thinner as the...
Time+Tide
Depancel and Jürgen Clauss have reunited for a second limited edition. The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph captures the racing spirit and blazing blues of the Alpine A110. They’ve used new-old-stock Valjoux 7753 movements, refurbished for vintage vibes and modern reliability. Many people wouldn’t have heard of Alpine were it not for the Renault Formula 1 … ContinuedThe post The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph is infused with racing spirit and vintage style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The De Bethune DB28 is an absolutely insane watch. As I found out for myself in Geneva earlier this year, the watch’s large proportions play tricks on you: it’s enormous to the eye, but incredibly light on the wrist thanks to the titanium case construction and airy design with those patented hollowed out, articulating lugs. Even though this watch is the ultimate example of “It actually wears a lot smaller…” I think it’s understandable that collectors would call for a version that’s actually smaller, and that’s what De Bethune has delivered with the new DB28xs Starry Seas. This is essentially a scaled down version of the DB28 that incorporates a fantastic and first of its kind dial that applies guilloche in an entirely new way. The centerpiece here is certainly the dial, which is made from heat blued titanium, taking on the dramatic bright blue shade that has become a De Bethune hallmark of sorts. The decoration is what De Bethune refers to as “random guilloche,” and they say this is the first time this technique has been used in a watch dial design. The cumulative effect is a dial that looks like ocean waves in motion, and it’s been accented with small white gold “stars” to create the impression of the night sky being reflected off the surface of a body of water. It’s a natural extension of other “Starry” De Bethune references, which typically depict a night sky view. The case will be familiar to those who know the DB28 (the lucky few). It...
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Deployant
‘Tis the year for the retrograde display here at Vacheron Constantin. The grand dame of watchmaking has released no fewer than three models with the mechanism at Watches & Wonders 2023. The first model is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, the most complicated of the lot. The next one is the Patrimony Retrograde Day-DateRead More
Time+Tide
Fun, comfortable, and educational, the Blok 33 could very well turn your kid into a budding watch enthusiast.The post The Blok 33 is a tool watch that’s cool for kids and a guilty pleasure for grown-ups appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
De Bethune has a thing for stars, but the way that they present them in the DB28xs Starry Seas is something that we haven't seen before. As the name already hints, are the stars reflected in an ocean full of waves. To create this effect, De Bethune invented a random guilloché pattern, a world's first, representing the waves.
Revolution
Step into history and witness the remarkable journey of Puyi’s wristwatch, an artifact that carries the weight of a bygone era. This iconic timepiece, belonging to the legendary emperor, will soon go under the hammer at Phillips auctioneers, and its story is truly captivating. Georgy Permyakov, Puyi’s Russian translator, was entrusted with preserving the memories […]
Time+Tide
Owing to the likes of the Rolex Explorer and Omega Aqua Terra, robust everyday watches have become their own thing. Because what we need is a watch we can wear everyday, not necessarily one that has a unique use case and the specifications to match. Everyday watches are the most common in brand catalogues and … ContinuedThe post Second Hour’s Mandala Burst offers a fresh take on the everyday watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Yema has pulled inspiration from their vintage catalog from it comes two new watches that call back to some of their most iconic designs.Fresh in the shop are the Rallygraf Meca-Quartz and the Superman 500 GMT, each in several fun colors. Let’s take a closer look at these exciting new releases from the French brand with over seven decades of watchmaking experience. Yema has pulled inspiration from their vintage catalog from it comes two new watches that call back to some of their most iconic designs.Fresh in the shop are the Rallygraf Meca-Quartz and the Superman 500 GMT, each in several fun colors. Let’s take a closer look at these exciting new releases from the French brand with over seven decades of watchmaking experience. The post New Vintage-Inspired Releases from Yema – Now In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Fast & Furious films are a fun, perhaps, guilty pleasure for millions. The franchise is essentially a racing soap opera packed with fight scenes and plot-lines spiked with twist, turns and resurrections. I could probably put together a more in-depth intro here. But time is ticking. With such a large cast throughout the years, … ContinuedThe post FAST X: The watches of the Fast & Furious cast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The HBO hit ends tonight; here's the behind-the-scenes story of the watches you'll see on screen.
Worn & Wound
In episode 51 of A Week In Watches we take a look at a trio of new Monaco watches from TAG Heuer leading into the race weekend in, well, Monaco, as well as a watch that’s taken shape almost entirely in the US of A from the workshop of J.N. Shapiro. Those two watches might be on opposite ends of the spectrum, but there’s plenty more to discuss in the middle, from a new Mathey Tissot x Massena LAB, Breitling Classic AVI watches (including one sweet re-edition), and news from Audemars Piguet, who’ve announced a new CEO to take the helm of the brand beginning next year. Plus, one spicy comment from last week’s episode. Be sure to catch next week’s episode, which marks one full year of A Week In Watches in, naturally, episode 52. It’s a special episode with Zach, Zach, and Blake taking a seat to answer questions submitted through our Worn & Wound+ Slack channel, which you can join by signing up for our weekly newsletter right here. Be sure to head over to YouTube to leave a comment on this episode and the next for a chance to be featured in an upcoming episode, and let us know your thoughts on the stories featured this week. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 51: TAG Heuer Opens Up The Monaco & US Made Watches From J.N. Shapiro appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Chopard brought the heat for Watches & Wonders 2023.The post All the heavy hitters from Chopard’s 2023 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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