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Monochrome
Albishorn is a new independent brand born to create “imaginary vintage” – watches that could have existed, capturing the allure of the past while exploring the possibilities of what might have been. Inspired by a “what if” spirit, the brand’s inaugural model seeks to answer the question: “What would a modern regatta chronograph have looked […]
Worn & Wound
Well, it wouldn’t be Geneva Watch Days without some wild new release from Massena LAB. Last year, the well-known design house partnered with Sylvain Pinaud to offer up a take on Pinaud’s modern marvel of a chronograph. This year, they’re looking back, joining with a brand new independent watchmaker making their debut at Geneva Watch Days, Albishorn, to give us something a little different. Albishorn, as I said, is a brand new indie brand with a unique focus - creating what they call “imaginary vintage” watches that bend watchmaking history to create something a little different. Their inaugural release, produced in partnership with Massena LAB, imagines a hypothetical late 1930s regatta chronograph (or regatta timer if you prefer), inspired by Le Bol d’Or Mirabaud - the world’s largest inland lake regatta, first run in 1939 on Lac Léman. A quick glance at the new Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph will leave vintage heads with a clear sense of origin. The new watch clearly pulls design language from Rolex’s iconic Zerographe chronographs, the early predecessor to now iconic watches like the Daytona. The watch’s dial layout is also reminiscent of World War II multi-scale chronographs, and the mono-pusher layout certainly invokes a vintage charm. Obviously, this is not a genuine vintage watch, and certain details of the Maxigraph betray that. The execution feels quite modern, with sharply machined elements like the stark red pusher on the case flank, mu...
Hodinkee
The trio of relatively young brands plans to collaborate and work outside of traditional watchmaking structures to grow independent brands in new ways.
Hodinkee
Breitling introduces its exclusive Caliber B19 in the Premier, Navitimer, and Chronomat to celebrate its 140th anniversary.
Worn & Wound
It’s been an undeniably good year for watches over at Oris. Whether your tastes skew toward the Aquis or the Divers Sixty-Five, there have been plenty of wonderful new additions to the Oris catalog in 2024, from the all-new Aquis introduced at Watches and Wonders to the slew of exciting LEs that have punctuated the year. For Geneva Watch Days, Oris is continuing the trend, marking Geneva’s second biggest week in watches with not only a new Divers Sixty-Five LE but a brand new generation of Aquis Chronograph as well. Since its introduction in 2015, the Divers Sixty-Five has been a clear hit for Oris. It’s one of those watches you actually see in the real world, and the versatile model has been the platform for some of the brand’s most popular and sought-after collaborations and limited editions. This summer alone has seen three wildly different interpretations of the Divers Sixty-Five hit the market, each with its own distinct appeal. This latest addition to the lineup sees Oris collaborating with France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP), along with LFP’s charity partner CNAPE (the National Convention of Child Protection Associations). Inspired by CNAPE’s mission, this 1,000-piece LE is replete with small details highlighting the partnership. Standouts here include the deep blue dial and the distinct font used for all the dial text, which is inspired by a child’s handwriting - a choice augmented by the rainbow of color used to spell out “water resi...
Time+Tide
To celebrate its 140th anniversary, Breitling has produced a limited run of three perpetual calendar chronographs in red gold.The post Breitling celebrates its 140th anniversary with a Navitimer, Chronomat, and Premier trio of perpetual calendars appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Founded in 1884 and celebrating its 140th anniversary this year, Breitling is no stranger to innovation and important milestones. In 1915, it launched the first wrist-worn chronograph with an independent pusher. In 1934, it patented a watch with a second independent pusher. In 1969, it participated in the creation of one of the first automatic […]
Monochrome
While immediately recognizable thanks to its signature Piccadilly case, which is found in its emblematic Openworked and Academic collections, Speake Marin decided in 2022 that it was time to join the all-important sporty-chic category, with its own vision of a watch with an integrated bracelet. This took the shape of an original watch named Ripples, […]
SJX Watches
Following the revival of Daniel Roth with the launch of the limited edition Tourbillon Souscription last year, the brand is now building its catalogue with the Tourbillon Rose Gold, which will be a regular production model. The Tourbillon Rose Gold is a variation of the original with tweaks to the decoration and material, but most significantly, the new tourbillon is fitted with a display back that shows off the DR001 movement. Initial thoughts It was expected that Daniel Roth would follow up with a regular production tourbillon, so the Tourbillon Rose Gold is not surprising. Like the Souscription, it has an obviously high quality of make in construction, finishing, and details. Both the dial and case are 5N rose gold so it is strikingly pink, giving it a stronger presence than the Souscription, which in comparison is low key. It was a shame that the DR001 movement was hidden in the Tourbillon Souscription because the calibre is worth admiring. The movement is high quality in both design and finishing, boasting many details that enthusiasts now regard as key elements of haute horlogerie. The quality of finishing is impressive. In fact, the movement decoration is as good as some small-scale independent brands, reflecting the attention to detail that has characterised the resurrected Daniel Roth brand. Admittedly, such fine finishing isn’t as rare as it once was, since it is now sought after by enthusiasts and specialist subcontractors have sprung up to cater to that deman...
SJX Watches
The race towards nothingness in ultra-thin watches has picked up in the last years, with brands like Bulgari and Richard Mille outdoing each other in the thinnest-watch stakes. Now Konstantin Chaykin wins the race with his ThinKing, a prototype that comes in at a staggering 1.65 mm in back-to-back thickness - making it the thinnest mechanical timepiece today. Currently the ThinKing is a concept watch in its second prototype stage, constructed and executed by the Moscow-based independent watchmaker, with three pending patents linked to its development. Initial thoughts While the technical merits are impressive, the watch seems bland on its face, or at least face-on. It appears to be a large, flat piece of steel with a dull finish, sporting twin eye-like registers for the hours and minutes. The ThinKing doesn’t have the visual flair of Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari or Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra. But it is easily recognisable as a Wristmon, the brand’s signature collection of “rolling eye” watches. Since it is only a prototype and the aesthetics are not yet refined for commercial production, the ThinKing’s appearance can be overlooked. The brand name engraved in an arc resembling a smile The ThinKing is absurdly thin at 1.65 mm. This makes it 0.05 mm thinner than the previous record holder for the thinnest mechanical watch, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Mark II. Although imperceptible to the naked eye, the minute reduction is amazing from a technical point...
Monochrome
The grande sonnerie is one of the most intricate mechanisms in watchmaking. Its creation requires the utmost technical expertise as hundreds of components are required to interact simultaneously and strike time indications perfectly. Bulgari has a rich tradition of crafting striking watches, having already produced grande and petite sonnerie watches. This expertise first originated from the […]
Worn & Wound
The watch world descends upon Geneva this week for Geneva Watch Days, which means new releases, which have been on a slow drip all summer, are suddenly on a more aggressive clip. While several dozen brands are official participants in Geneva Watch Days, like Watches & Wonders, other brands tend to jump in on the fun and coordinate releases and even take meetings outside the official program. Tudor is never one to let an opportunity like this pass, and even though they aren’t officially on the docket, they’ve dropped a new release on the eve of the festivities. The Black Bay Chronograph “Blue” Boutique Edition is exactly what it says on the tin. Here we have a blue panda rendition of the brand’s premier chronograph model, with a deep blue dial and silvered subdials at 9:00 and 3:00. And yes, availability is said to be limited to “select Tudor boutiques.” This release comes just a few months after Tudor surprised us with an extremely limited pink edition of the Black Bay Chrono. That watch has proven to be among the most sought after new releases of the year, and while the pink dial is certainly the star, the secret weapon is the inclusion of the fantastic five-link bracelet, which saw it’s debut in the chrono lineup on the pink edition. It’s back for the “Blue” Boutique, and based on Tudor supplied imagery alone, I’m prepared to say this is the correct bracelet for this watch, full stop. In terms of specs, all the key data is carried over from ...
SJX Watches
MB&F;’s sculptural clocks made by L’Epee 1839 have ranged from sci-fi spiders to robots. And now the pair have debuted their most elaborate and expensive desk clock to date, the Albatross. Inspired by the airship of the same name in the Jules Verne novel Robur the Conqueror, the steampunk Albatross does more than tell the time. The clock also incorporates an hourstriker as well as a propellor automaton that activates alongside the hourstriker. Initial thoughts The Albatross is more interesting mechanically than MB&F;’s past collaborations with L’Epee, which were mostly about the form of the clock. This, on the other hand, incorporates mechanics into the design with the propeller automaton linked to the hourstriker. Coupled with the chiming and spinning propellors, the sheer size – 60 cm high and some 17 kg – makes the Albatross a truly impressive object. But the Albatross costs about CHF120,000 before taxes, which is a big number even considering its complexity. While the impressive mechanics and careful construction of the clock arguably justify the price, the price tag puts it in competition with a lot of compelling watches, at least for a watch collector. For someone looking for an impressive desktop object or the ultimate in home decor, this has arguably less competition. Jules Verne’s airship Made of steel, brass, and aluminium, the Albatross contains two separate movements. The first is a twin barrel, eight-day movement for the timekeeping and hourstriker...
Worn & Wound
Two prominent industry insiders have recently collaborated to establish a new watch company, Gagà Laboratorio, based in Switzerland. Mo Coppoletta will serve as the Art Director, and Ruben Tomella as the owner of the Italy based Gagà Milano brand and the newly formed company, Gagà Laboratorio. Mr. Tomella has had a successful tenure with Gagà Milano for two decades. He founded brand offshoot Manufacture Gagà in Switzerland, which has focused on creating high-end products for Gagà Milano in collaboration with leading industry partners, including the development of tourbillon movements in partnership with Hysek, a Swiss independent brand. In 2020, Mr. Tomella decided to redirect the activities of the Swiss company and embarked on establishing a new brand, Gagà Laboratorio. The mission of Gagà Laboratorio is to create entry-level luxury timepieces that emphasize design while maintaining high-quality movement standards. To achieve this vision, he partnered with artist Mo Coppoletta, a long-time friend. Together, they have initiated this new chapter for Gagà. Mo Coppoletta is a world-renowned artist, designer, and tattoo artist, known for his collaborations with Bvlgari on two Octo Finissimo limited editions featuring his tattoo artwork. In my interview with Mr. Tomella, he discusses the vision of Gagà Laboratorio. “After 16 years in the watchmaking industry at the helm of Gagà Milano, in 2020, I felt a strong pull towards the world of independent watchmaking and d...
Monochrome
Hyper Horology. A term coined by the Roger Dubuis manufacture that perfectly describes its complex and extravagant watchmaking style. The brand doesn’t shy away from uniquely creative and colourful expressions, regularly incorporating exotic materials stemming from the automotive or aeronautical world. Roger Dubuis’ latest adaptation of its cornerstone Excalibur collection not only incorporates a double […]
Worn & Wound
As India’s luxury market continues to grow, there has been an opportunity for more domestic-made brands to shine. One such brand is the Bangalore Watch Company. Since 2018, the brand has been making timepieces that are inspired by the rich landscape and heritage of the subcontinent. One such series of watches, MACH 1, has centered on the Indian Air Force. Past iterations have focused on various motifs, from formation aerobatics to aircraft carriers. For their latest launch, Bangalore Watch Company has set their sights to the clouds and high-altitude helicopters. The Himalayas have long captivated the cultural imagination of the world – and especially those in India. With over 1,600 peaks with a towering 6,000 meter presence, the mountain range inspires both fear and awe. It’s incredible, then, to think that some of the top aviators in India use helicopters for reconnaissance and resupply operations in some of the most challenging flying conditions on the planet. Enter the Mach 1 Avalanche, inspired by the harsh beauty of the Himalayan peaks and the danger that is intrinsically tied to the airspace. This is first evident with the “Frostpeak” dial, inspired by freshly fallen snow, which shimmers with a motif de grain that plays with light in varying conditions. The bright red minute hand, coated with Super-Luminova, draws inspiration from airspeed indicators and the vibrant colors of mountain rescue helicopters while the case back is engraved with an image of a hel...
Monochrome
First presented in 2017, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono surprised a bit the brand’s fans with its mix of classic dive watch elements (solid water-resistance and snowflake hands) and racing cues, with the chronograph function and external tachymeter bezel. Multiple editions of this watch will follow, all powered by a Breitling-derived automatic movement, including the […]
Monochrome
Since 2019, Bangalore Watch Company has been expanding its MACH 1 portfolio to honour local aviation like the Indian Air Force MiG 21, Indian Navy Aircraft Carrier INS Vikrant R11 and Indian women in commercial aviation. The latest MACH 1 Avalanche celebrates high-altitude mountain rescue helicopters at the peaks of the Himalayas. The thin air […]
Monochrome
Italians are known for quite a few things, amongst which is their unmistakable sense of style and design. From fashion and shoes to automobiles, kitchen appliances, furniture and art, Italian flair is ever-present. So much so, that specific terms are used to describe people who embrace this flamboyancy and elegance. The term Gagà for instance, […]
Time+Tide
A hand-painted CasiOak is not something you see every day, but that's exactly what Fratello and IFL Watches have done with this Moonlander.The post One small step for Fratello, one giant leap for IFL Watches: the Fratello x IFL Watches G-Shock CasiOak Moonlander appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Piaget, the pioneer of ultra thin movement debuts their first ever ceramic watch at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024. The Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic. The bold use of new materials is a testament to the Maison’s commitment to watchmaking excellence and innovation.
Monochrome
This year, IWC brings the emblematic Portugieser collection under the spotlight, introducing several stunning new additions to the collection, including the impressive Eternal Calendar and updates to several iconic models, such as the chronograph and the 7-day Automatic. On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Shanghai, the brand unveils a new version of its Portugieser […]
Worn & Wound
On Saturday, August 17th, Worn & Wound hit the West Coast to celebrate the opening of the newest headquarters of The James Brand. A large multipurpose space, the Oceanside, California The James Brand location serves as office space, a storefront highlighting their vast collection of EDC items, and now an event space capable of hosting the enthusiast community keen on engaging with and celebrating our shared hobbies. To celebrate its opening, The James Brand invited us out for a one-day-only pop-up event along with our friends from Artefkt, Belmont, Brew, Citizen, Lōcī, Zodiac, and of course, the Windup Watch Shop was there as well. Recently, we have had the pleasure of hosting and attending some excellent meetups allowing us to share our enthusiasm in a more intimate setting. On our first visit to the greater San Diego area, we were overwhelmed by the positivity, passion, and overall good vibes hoisted upon us by the locals. Making the trek down from Los Angeles and up from San Diego, Oceanside became a confluence for both the watch and EDC communities to explore new gear pairings, share their collecting thought processes, and discuss practicality and design. We were blown away by the support and thank all those who attended and shared their passions with us! With The James Brand focusing on minimalistic design with uncompromising functionality, it makes sense that their community and the watch community would overlap. It can sometimes be hard to explain exactly what cau...
Monochrome
This morning we’ve already introduced to you a Grand Seiko watch featuring a deep, rich red dial to evoke the arrival of autumn: the Elegance Karasawa SBGY035 Limited edition. Already a pleasant surprise from the Japanese watchmaker, this watch didn’t come alone and is accompanied by yet another red-toned watch. A sportier, more casual-oriented member […]
Time+Tide
Not too hot, nor too cold, we compile some of the best mid-size watches with a Goldilocks diameter between 35mm and 40mm.The post 7 of the best mid-size watches between 35mm – 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: Today, a new series from Andrew Canter: the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this first installment, Andrew looks at the pendulum clock, an invention largely taken for granted today, but one which led to virtually every horological advancement commonly known. It also had a profound ripple effect on how we live our lives, allowing human beings the ability the schedule events with a level of precision previously impossible. In 16th century London, only the very wealthy owned domestic clocks, watches and sundials. Inventories of their property suggest that most clocks and watches were imported from Germany, France and the Low Countries (see below). By about 1600 however, a small group of makers had become established in the City of London. King Henry VIII (1509 – 1547) and his successors encouraged foreign makers and mathematicians to settle in London and bring their skills with them. Sir Thomas More, his father, his household and his descendants by Rowland Lockey, after Hans Holbein the Younger oil on canvas, 1593 © National Portrait Gallery, London Portrait of Lady Bolle, Circle of Paul Van Somer, London 1627. Portrayed wearing a set of superb matching jewellery, which includes a fine ruby-set watch, with its key. Image Courtesy of the Science Museum Group/The Clockmakers’ Museum © The Board of Trustees of the Science Museum, London As the market for clocks and watches grew in London, more and more immigrant makers made their way to t...
Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier and Bahraini partner PRJKT8 present a special edition Tonda PF Skeleton. Limited to just 8 examples, the exclusive timepiece features flamed graphite blue indices that offer a striking contrast to the masterfully crafted, graphite-coloured openworked dial. Based on one of the most appealing models within the now classic Tonda PF collection, the brand’s […]
Monochrome
For their latest collaboration piece, Zenith and Felipe Pantone are teaming up once again, bringing a fresh burst of colour and artistic innovation to the brand’s collection. Pantone, renowned for his electrifying kinetic art that merges dynamic colours with geometric patterns, first collaborated with Zenith in 2020, when he transformed the Le Locle-based manufacture’s façade […]
SJX Watches
Continuing with its series of editions made for the Swiss Air Force’s aerobatic team, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is a clean, no-frills watch based on IWC’s entry-level pilot’s watch. A limited edition of 250 pieces, the Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is the fifth edition dedicated to the aerobatics team. This has two notable features that set it apart from the regular production Mark XX. First, the case is entirely in matte titanium instead of stainless steel. Secondly, the dial is sunburst-brushed slate grey rather than black or blue. Initial thoughts As one of IWC’s bestsellers, the Mark XX is a modern take on the historical IWC pilot’s watch. It’s relatively affordable and an easily wearable 40 mm. The standard Mark XX sticks to the standard template, so it isn’t that interesting. The Patrouille Suisse edition, on the other hand, is different enough to be interesting, but not so much that it loses the recognisable styling. The lightweight, low-key titanium case is particularly fitting for a pilot’s watch, both in terms of visuals and feel. And the grey dial adds a bit of nuance to an otherwise monochromatic look, though it could have been better without the date. Priced at US$6,500, the Mark XX Patrouille Suisse doesn’t cost too much more than the standard model, which makes it a compelling alternative. Admittedly the cal. 32111 inside is one of IWC’s most economical movements, but it is acceptable for the price. Shades of grey Ent...
Monochrome
The Villeret Collection of Blancpain comprises the brand’s most classic and elegant timepieces. They offer a wide range of functions, from the basic time-only models to more complex complications like the minute repeater, perpetual calendar, dual-time zone, chronograph, and more. Recognizable by their distinctive double-stepped case design, these watches are a testament to aesthetic excellence. […]
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