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Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième While Aug 1, 2021

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième

While the Reverso was conceived as a sports watch – it flipped over to protect the crystal – the swivelling case makes more sense today as a double-faced complication (or a canvas for miniature painting). And that’s precisely what Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has done with a variety of models, ranging from the twin-time zone Duoface to the Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque with four faces. The Quadriptyque is the flagship model for the Reverso’s 90th anniversary, with 11 complications and a price tag north of US$1.6 million. Also created for the anniversary, but more affordable – relatively speaking – is the Reverso Tribute Nonantième that shows a single time on two faces, a conventional one on the front, and a charming secondary display on the back. Initial thoughts With a case that’s among the largest of Reversos, the Nonantième is a big watch. Pick it up and the size is immediately apparent; it would be considerably more elegant if smaller. It feels like a chunky, complicated watch. In fact, it’s almost as large as the Quadriptyque in diameter and length, despite being far simpler. On the front it’s typical of current Reverso design. All of the elements on the dial are classical and work together well. The only piece of the front that stands out is the moon phase display, which has a textured moon that gives the dial a little life. Its better side is the reverse, which shows hours and minutes in a manner that’s decidedly special for a Reverso. ...

Gincredible! How And Why Gin Went From Murderous Swill To 007-Level Cool – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jul 31, 2021

Gincredible! How And Why Gin Went From Murderous Swill To 007-Level Cool – Reprise

In eighteenth-century England, a typical sign outside a gin shop read, “Drunk for a penny. Dead drunk for twopence. Clean straw for nothing.” But by the twentieth century Sir Winston Churchill reported that, “The gin and tonic has saved more Englishmen’s lives, and minds, than all the doctors in the Empire.” Ken Gargett fills his glass and takes a look at the evolution of gin. Cheers!

Three big questions raised by the sale of the green dial steel Nautilus for half a million US dollars. What are your answers? Time+Tide
Jul 28, 2021

Three big questions raised by the sale of the green dial steel Nautilus for half a million US dollars. What are your answers?

The watch community hit peak frustration last week, irked by the sale of a still-sealed, green dial steel Nautilus for $490,000 USD. Flipping is rife in this hobby, and many see it as the largest problem in watch collecting today – a practice that makes it harder to secure in-demand timepieces. Sure, it’s nothing new, … ContinuedThe post Three big questions raised by the sale of the green dial steel Nautilus for half a million US dollars. What are your answers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cheap Bastard: The Undone Urban 34 Killy Black Rose is a $300 tangerine dream Time+Tide
Jul 26, 2021

Cheap Bastard: The Undone Urban 34 Killy Black Rose is a $300 tangerine dream

Unlike my erudite and learned colleagues on this website, those who have read this column in the past will know my horological lusts aren’t governed by the usual parameters.  Which is my way of saying that a bargain is where I’m at. To paraphrase the great Billy Connolly: “My dad was so tight he’d wake … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Undone Urban 34 Killy Black Rose is a $300 tangerine dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Commissioning A Watch: My Journey With The Kari Voutilainen Masterpiece Chronograph II – Reprise Quill & Pad
Voutilainen Jul 25, 2021

Commissioning A Watch: My Journey With The Kari Voutilainen Masterpiece Chronograph II – Reprise

In late February 2010, an informal group of Northern California watch collectors, all owners of at least one Kari Voutilainen watch, met for lunch. One of the members of the group nonchalantly mentioned, "I've been talking with Kari about something . . ." It was a set of bespoke Kari Voutilainen Masterpiece Chronograph II models. GaryG's response two seconds later: "I'm in!" So how did it go after that?

WATCHSPOTTING: The IWC watch that had a starring role in Gossip Girl Time+Tide
IWC watch Jul 23, 2021

WATCHSPOTTING: The IWC watch that had a starring role in Gossip Girl

Last year, as I was relegated to the confines of a New York City apartment for weeks on end, binge watching shows became the best way to pass time. In all those months, I found no show did a better job of this than the original Gossip Girl. Rich teenagers, crazy plots and ridiculous cliffhangers … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: The IWC watch that had a starring role in Gossip Girl appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Harry Winston Unveils the Project Z15 SJX Watches
Jul 20, 2021

Harry Winston Unveils the Project Z15

Launched in 2004, the Project Z is Harry Winston’s flagship series within its Ocean line of sports watches, defined by the aluminium-zirconium alloy used for the cases known as Zalium. Traditionally dominated by chronographs and dual time zones, as is typical for a sports watch, the Project Z collection now is now joined by one of the most unusual models to date, the Project Z15. The new model boasts a gently upgraded design and novel mechanics, especially for a sports watch – a regulator-style time display with retrograde seconds, set against a skeletonised dial inspired by New York City’s Art Deco architecture. Initial thoghts Like its elder siblings, the Project Z15 is masculine in style but muted in colour, all about symmetry and clean, geometric lines, which results in a techno-industrial look that’ll appeal to someone who wants an interesting but understated sports watch. The new Z15 is a first for the brand in having a regulator-style display, which means the hours, minutes, and seconds hand indicated on separate axes arranged in a vertical line. The layout is not only vertically symmetrical, it improves readability, as much as possible for an open-worked, regulator dial. Most notable is the retrograde 30-second display, which means the seconds hand returns to zero twice a minute, creating near-constant action on the dial. Interestingly, the skeletonised bridges on the dial finished with a simple, linear graining, giving the face a look that brings to min...

Meet our new Editor and Deputy Editor – and apply for this Account Manager role if you’d like to join the team! Time+Tide
Jul 18, 2021

Meet our new Editor and Deputy Editor – and apply for this Account Manager role if you’d like to join the team!

Today, we are more than just a bit tickled to announce that Luke Benedictus – yes, the Luke behind most of our  unputdownable ‘Weekend Reads’ –  will assume the role of Editor of Time+Tide. For the last 18 months, Luke has been an influential force driving our editorial agenda as Contributing Editor. It is unlikely … ContinuedThe post Meet our new Editor and Deputy Editor – and apply for this Account Manager role if you’d like to join the team! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer revives the mythical Monaco “Dark Lord” for Only Watch Time+Tide
TAG Heuer revives Jul 15, 2021

TAG Heuer revives the mythical Monaco “Dark Lord” for Only Watch

Any fan of racing chronographs should be familiar with the Heuer Monaco “Dark Lord”.  Introduced in 1974, this mythical all-black Monaco was clad in a PVD coating and powered by a hand-wound Valjoux 7740. Only a very small run of the “Dark Lord” watches were produced, making it amongst the most valuable Heuer watches today. … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer revives the mythical Monaco “Dark Lord” for Only Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin celebrates their creativity with Melbourne exhibition Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin celebrates their creativity Jul 13, 2021

Vacheron Constantin celebrates their creativity with Melbourne exhibition

Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest manufacturers still producing watches today. A known member of the holy trinity, their timepieces have captured the eyes, hearts, and wrists of the world’s foremost collectors due to their distinct designs and exquisite finishings. Many brands have a tagline that sums up their manufacture, but Vacheron’s motto “one … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin celebrates their creativity with Melbourne exhibition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-on with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Chronograph WatchAdvice
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Jul 12, 2021

Hands-on with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Chronograph

First up, let me get something off my chest. I have never been a fan of the movement used in the AP Royal Oak Offshore. As much as I like the style of the watch, I’ve always felt the movement isn’t up to scratch, especially for the price. Of course, not many people will care about this, but one look at how deep-set the date is, and you know clearly that it is a modular construction (module by Dubois-Deprez). And really, at $50k a pop, is it really too much to ask for an integrated chronograph movement? I’m sure there are many out there who will argue that this is part of the charm. It’s what makes the Royal Oak Offshore different. But I have a feeling given how hyped the watches are, people are only too happy to buy one when one is available, and straight away, blinders come on, and the denial begins. Especially when the layout is exactly the same as the ubiquitous ETA 7750 chronographs (12-9-6 sub-dials). Again, nothing wrong with the ETA 7750. In fact, it is one of my favourite entry-level, workhorse movements, but even this one is integrated… Fine. Call me a chronograph snob if you like. As we all know, this hobby is highly personal and highly subjective. I just prefer my chronographs to be integrated. (Although I’m not fussy regarding whether it’s a vertical or horizontal clutch, and whether or not the engagement is controlled by a column-wheel or a cam/lever assembly – I’m sure there are people out there who swears by one form over another…)  This...

Could your smartwatch make you mentally tougher? The military is hopeful that it can Time+Tide
Jul 10, 2021

Could your smartwatch make you mentally tougher? The military is hopeful that it can

In the line of duty, soldiers are routinely subjected to wildly stressful situations. How they handle that mental strain can make a vital difference to how they perform under pressure. Even when enemy bullets are whizzing about their heads, soldiers are required to maintain the necessary composure to think clearly and act decisively. Military training … ContinuedThe post Could your smartwatch make you mentally tougher? The military is hopeful that it can appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual – Reprise Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 10, 2021

Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual – Reprise

The date: January 13, 2012. The place: Glashütte, Germany, where one of my best friends had arranged for the two of us to visit A. Lange & Söhne. The vision: my friend extended his arm from the sleeve of his shirt, and what I saw left me reeling – my first view of the Lange Datograph Perpetual in white gold. I was confident from that very moment that this was a watch for me, but pursuit of the piece took four long years.

Meistersinger Bell Hora Hands-On Review WatchAdvice
Meistersinger Bell Hora Hands-On Review Jul 9, 2021

Meistersinger Bell Hora Hands-On Review

Time is precious. So are every moment. Slow down and savour the moment. Take a deep breath. Pause. Accuracy is important but today we place perhaps too much importance on being precise. But time is about moments, rather than each individual second. The moments are what we remember and whilst time shouldn’t be wasted, it should also be lived and enjoyed.  This is the philosophy behind Meistersinger watches. Its singled-handed-ness is designed to help you slow down time, to 5-minute increments, so that you no longer focus on the seconds, and rather, the important moments in your life. The precious moments, the ones that will live on forever. Even the logo of Meistersinger alludes to this: take the time and “pause”. It is indeed the musical symbol/notation for pause and is used to great effect in music. It can be the climax of the piece, it can be where you take a breath, to highlight a point in the music, the storytelling. It can make all the difference in a fast-paced, unrelenting allegro series of semiquavers and staccatos that is today’s lives. Pause. There comes a point in time where rushing is no longer needed nor wanted. Not everything is a race and the charge to the next point is more often than not irrelevant. It doesn’t matter in the grand scheme of things. Yes, punctuality is important but being punctual has nothing to do with rushing and accuracy.  Take the time to admire the surroundings. Look up. Look around. Look deep into something. Look at the wor...

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Jul 8, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition

Unveiled five years ago, the L.U.C Perpetual Twin is Chopard’s most affordable perpetual calendar, but finely executed as is typical of L.U.C, the brand’s line of mechanical watches powered by top-class in-house movements. Featuring details absent in similarly-priced peers, such a micro-rotor movement and oversized date, the Perpetual Twin has since been iterated into several versions, but the winner is now clear: the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition, a collaboration between the watchmaker and eponymous collectors club based in Spain. The CronotempVs edition has a striking palette: dial with an uncommon, grained-gold finish with black sub-dials and indices, giving it a strong, high-contrast look that suits the largish steel case. Initial thoughts Chopard’s prowess in watchmaking is indisputable – its top-of-the-line creations rival even the work put out by best independent watchmakers – but the brand is often overlooked, especially since prevailing fads mean most turn to bigger names or “safer” choices. And it doesn’t help that Chopard generates most of its revenue from cheerful ladies’ watches and jewellery. The L.U.C line stands out for its movements with sophisticated construction and finishing, even for the simplest, entry-level models – demonstrated by the double-chronometer wristwatch unveiled earlier this year. But it still receives a lukewarm reception from the broader market. That’s in part due to the designs, which are often satis...

Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 – And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Jul 6, 2021

Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 – And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe

At watch auctions by Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s held in 2020, the first year of the pandemic, 22 timepieces hammered for more than one million Swiss francs. And to date in 2021, there have been (at least) 13 watches selling for more than one million Swiss francs. Elizabeth Doerr highlights the top auction results of the pandemic era so far, and, yes, Patek Philippe still reigns supreme.