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Garrick Introduces their Regulator MK 2, Another Highly Customizable Ode to Classic British Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Garrick Jul 7, 2023

Garrick Introduces their Regulator MK 2, Another Highly Customizable Ode to Classic British Watchmaking

Garrick Watchmakers is back with the Regulator MK 2, which puts their distinct design language inspired by nautical themes and classical British watchmaking into one of the oldest time telling formats there is, but in a contemporary way. One of the things we love about Garrick is the way they inhabit both traditional watchmaking tropes and combine them with new ideas that feel very much of the moment. Their commitment to personalization and making everything on their own is the ethos that links the old and new – these are ideas that were central to the earliest days of watchmaking, and are currently experiencing a resurgence in general interest as the hobby grows and expands. Garrick’s new Regulator is noteworthy for straddling that line, and of course for the elaborate and ornate finishing they’ve become known for (which, naturally, you can customize to your heart’s content).  Garrick introduced their first regulator in 2018, roughly five years after the brand was launched. It’s a time telling platform that originated in the late 18th century, and is most often associated with watchmakers who used regulator clocks to gauge the accuracy and rate stability of the timepieces they were working on. In the days before www.time.gov, a watchmaker’s regulator was an important tool when a predictable and reliable timepiece was essential for doing a particular job, such as an aid in navigation on a ship. With hours, minutes, and seconds each on a separate axis, it becom...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On With The Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ in Steel Worn & Wound
Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ Jul 5, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On With The Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ in Steel

Last month, Oris introduced a followup collection to their incredibly popular Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection, this time rendered in 38mm steel cases. The bright dials and steel bezel works just as well here as they did in the bronze case variants from last year. These new dial colors feel right at home in the 38mm steel case, which is a first for a regular production Divers Sixty-Five watch. It should come as no surprise that the watches retain their big personality in person, which we discover in this first look at the new summer ready batch of Diver Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection. We haven’t been shy about our preference for this case size in the Diver Sixty-Five range, and we’re happy to see it make its way into a steel configuration. The bright dials feel fresh and modern, creating some potential conflict with the riveted three link bracelet that’s on offer. Thankfully that’s an easy opportunity to create a vibe of your own with a different strap, or even the perlon fabric strap that’s also offered by Oris for these watches. It’s a look that could take a number of forms depending on the strap choice. As fun as the Cotton Candy collection is, seeing this case size take hold in the regular production range of the Diver Sixty-Five offers an exciting prospect of seeing other variations take shape in the same size. It feels like only a matter of time before we see a regular black or blue dial or even a complication make its way over. Either way, t...

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Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Louis Vuitton has Jul 5, 2023

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour

Louis Vuitton has redesigned its trademark wristwatch some two decades after it was introduced. In contrast to its predecessors, the Louis Vuitton Tambour has been refined and condensed into a thin, streamlined wristwatch that’s just 8.3 mm high. Sporting a touch of 1970s style, the new Tambour is equipped with the LFT023, an automatic movement featuring a micro-rotor. Representing the first of a new generation of Louis Vuitton movements, the LFT023 was developed by movement maker Le Cercle des Horlogers and features novel details like frosted bridges with relief borders and clear jewels. The new Tambour replaces all existing Tambour models, save for the high-end complications, like the automatons and minute repeaters, as well as the entry-level Street Diver. As a result, the once diverse and occasionally confusing offer of watches is rationalised to essentially three lines – Street Diver, the new Tambour, and complications. Initial thoughts Now 20 years old, the Tambour has been around long enough to become easily recognisable as Louis Vuitton’s trademark watch case. The original Tambour was an appealing design, particularly when paired with complications – I am personally a big fan of some complicated Tambour models – but it felt chunky even on a smaller scale. So the new Tambour is everything that the original was not – svelte and restrained. On its face it is not as recognisable as the original, but in profile it is clearly evolved from the original. The sl...

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Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Enamel Blue SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Jul 3, 2023

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Enamel Blue

Ulysse Nardin is introducing a more classical iteration of its affordable Freak to mark the 15th year of PMT The Hour Glass, a luxury watch retailer in Thailand. The Freak X Enamel Blue maintains the avant-garde styling of the model while introducing a touch of old school elegance with a captivating blue enamel dial embellished with vibrant guilloché. Initial thoughts Ulysse Nardin, known for its experimental designs, pleasantly surprises by integrating a champlevé enamel dial into a watch that is otherwise unabashedly modern. The standout feature is the dial that combines the artistry of enamelling and guilloché, made possible by the brand’s in-house dial factory. This infusion of classicism into the inherently contemporary watch results in an understated and surprisingly harmonious aesthetic. As is always the case with a novel limited edition, hopefully Ulysse Nardin will maintain the exclusivity of this design and refrain from replicating too much in future models. The Freak X Enamel Blue carries a price tag of US$40,100, almost twice the cost of the standard model. While the dial is traditional enamel – painted and fired by hand in other words – the construction and movement remain unchanged over the standard model, making the price hard to rationalise. 15th anniversary The Freak X edition commemorates the fifteenth anniversary of PMT The Hour Glass, a joint venture between local jeweller Prima Times (PMT) and Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass. Establish...

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Dumoreau Follows Up their Debut with an Attractive Contemporary Dress Watch Worn & Wound
Jul 3, 2023

Dumoreau Follows Up their Debut with an Attractive Contemporary Dress Watch

The DM02 is the sophomore release from California-based micro brand Dumoreau, following the DM01 we touched on here. Designed by architect and designer Carlo Aiello, this dress watch takes his expertise in architecture and product design into the realm of the dress watch, while drawing on basic principles of proportion to create a compelling new release that slots in nicely with his debut. The dial features a two-piece construction with recessed concentric circles at the center, complemented by a brushed circular section for numerals and minute track. The indexes maintain their orientation as they encircle the dial, while the only branding present is the hand-applied Dumoreau name, seamlessly integrated into the concentric circles. The curvaceous all-polished 39mm case directs works to draw the eye to the dial, with lyre lugs providing additional visual interest. The stated goal of the design was to create a “dynamic organic geometry,” and the end result is a case with both gentle and dramatic curves that cohere nicely with the details of the dial. The screw-in sapphire caseback exposes the manually wound Sellita SW 210-1 movement, decorated with Geneva stripes and circular graining. With dimensions of 39mm wide, 46mm lug to lug, and a slim profile of 9.5mm thanks to the hand wound caliber, the DM02 is designed to fit comfortably on wrists of all sizes. Conveniently, it boasts a water resistance rating of 100 meters, uncommon for a manually wound dress watch. The DM02 ...

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Furlan Marri goes Big What Jul 2, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 56: Omega goes Blue + Furlan Marri goes Big

What a week! On episode 56 of A Week in Watches we cover a lot, yet barely even scratch the surface of what launched (don’t worry, we’ll get back to it next week). We start off with a look at the second collaboration between Louis Erard and Massena LAB. From there, we descend the depths of the Omega Seamaster catalog with a special collection of 11 new watches for the lines 75th anniversary. After, there’s a speed round where we quickly cover the Tissot PRX 35mm, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Steel 38mm Cotton Candy Collection, and the Cara Barrett x Timex collab. Whew. The last segment focuses on a truly epic project by Furlan Marri, the Secular Perpetual Calendar for the upcoming Only Watch auction in November. Quite a week. This week’s sponsor is Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023! After a successful weekend in San Francisco, the highly anticipated Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the vibrant city of Chicago from Friday, July 14, through Sunday, July 16, 2023. The fair will be held at Venue West, located at 221 N Paulina St in the West Loop neighborhood of Chicago, and feature over 40 brands. Visit and follow windupwatchfair.com for the full list of participating brands. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 56: Omega goes Blue + Furlan Marri goes Big appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Formex Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Formex Jun 30, 2023

Formex Watches Guide

Formex Watches have been on the market since 2000 but the story of the Swiss independent brand’s success really begins with its revitalization in 2016, which marked a more streamlined approach to the product line and a new focus on direct-to-consumer online retailing. We spoke to Formex CEO Raphael Granito about the company’s origins, its new direction, and what distinguishes each of the models in its current portfolio.  Formex Watch SA traces its conception to 1999 and its actual foundation to 2000. Based in Biel/Bienne in the Swiss canton of Bern, It was the passion project of Hans-Peter and Ferdinand Grädel, brothers with deep roots in the watchmaking industry and a shared enthusiasm for motorsports, and a group of their friends from the industrial engineering field. The company name “Formex” is a portmanteau of the French phrase “Forme Extrème” (or “extreme shape,”) a philosophy that is most evident in the earliest watch models produced by the brand (example above), which leaned into the high-tech automotive aesthetic of high-performance cars and motorbikes as well as the era’s propensity for large, bulky case sizes. The 46mm cases of the original Formex models, in fact, were designed specifically to put the founders’ signature technical achievement - the innovative, inner-case suspension system for the movement, a shock absorption device inspired by the suspensions in car engines - on full display. The patented system (below), which remains ...

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Zach Goes to the Movies: The Ancient Mechanical Device at the Center of Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny, and the Vintage Inspired Hamilton Worn on Indy’s Last Great Adventure Worn & Wound
Hamilton Worn Jun 30, 2023

Zach Goes to the Movies: The Ancient Mechanical Device at the Center of Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny, and the Vintage Inspired Hamilton Worn on Indy’s Last Great Adventure

There are endless stories in the watch community of the random things that spark an interest in this hobby. We’ve all heard many variations on the watch as a hand-me-down artifact from a relative being the curiosity driving agent behind an interest in horology. Just the other day, an old friend sent me an Instagram post from an account that specializes in cataloging toys from the 1980s – it was a Transformers watch, and when I saw it I immediately remembered that I’d begged in vain for this weird item as a Hanukkah gift, only to come up empty. This very well could have been my Rosebud – the thing that without even realizing it set the stage for an adulthood of staying up way too late on internet forums looking for a great deal on a pre-owned Seiko. When I saw Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny a few weeks ago, it occurred to me that this movie could be that defining moment for a new generation of watch enthusiasts. Hyperbole? I don’t know, maybe. The movie features, as a primary plot point, a mechanical watch-like device, referred to in the film as the Antikythera. Hardcore watch enthusiasts and horology scholars know that the Antikythera is very much a real thing, even if the version in the new film comes out of the imagination of the screenwriters. But it’s that nebulous “real or not real?” status that I imagine will make some younger, future watch nerds curious, and set them down a path that leads, inexorably, to sites like this one, and spending way ...

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Cartier Introduces the Crash in Platinum SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre movement it replaces Cartier Jun 30, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Crash in Platinum

Cartier has returned to its most iconic, yet most elusive, design with the Crash London New Bond Street Exclusive. The new launch mirrors the Crash release of 2019 by keeping it exclusive to the New Bond Street boutique in London, only this time the case is in platinum. Initial thoughts A new Cartier Crash is always worth taking note of, especially when its design pays close attention to the original of 1967. While the brand has been noted for diligently recreating the looks from its past, none of them come close in terms of excitement among collectors than the Crash.  Following up the yellow gold version of four years ago with this platinum model was a smart move by the brand, and has put clear thought into how to execute it. Notably, the vintage “London” Crash was never available in platinum so this is not so much a remake as a reinterpretation of history – one but executed very well. From the form of the case to the layout of the dial and hands, Cartier has done their utmost to respect what Jean-Jacques Cartier and Rupert Emerson had first imagined and besides a perhaps slightly questionable placement of “Swiss made”, they appear to have done a fantastic job.  Not only has the dial design been slightly modified, but the brand has also updated the movement to use the cal. 1917 MC, perhaps an upgrade in terms of it being in house, though the construction of the cal. 1917 MC is not as sophisticated as the Jaeger-LeCoultre movement it replaces. Cartier has price...

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The Oceanking Returns: Monta Introduces Version Three of their Signature Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Monta Jun 30, 2023

The Oceanking Returns: Monta Introduces Version Three of their Signature Dive Watch

Following the continued success of the second generation Oceanking, St. Louis-based brand Monta just released their third iteration of the dive-inspired watch. Making intuitive tweaks to the design, the third generation of the Oceanking shows the capabilities of Monta and that there’s always room for improvement. The first thing to notice about the new-and-improved Oceanking is the bezel. With a focus on tactility and functionality, the new bezel features a ceramic insert that’s easier to read due to upgraded indices, typeface, and a lume pip at the 12 o’clock mark. Second to that is the 120-click action of the bezel assembly, which is suspended on three ball-pushers. The configuration of this assembly is totally unique to Monta and is currently patent-pending, making it an innovative feather in the microbrand’s cap. Much of the design principles of previous Oceankings have stuck around, with small tweaks to make it all the more refined for new customers and longtime fans of the brand. The dial has refreshed lume, a larger date aperture, and new text orientation. It’s small adjustments like these that make me confident that Monta is paying attention to every single detail and working closely with their Swiss manufacturing partners to bring us something special. Beyond the visual tweaks, one can expect even more adjustments made at the technical level as well. While the case clocks in at 40.7mm (same as Gen. 2), it is 0.2mm thinner than the previous generation. Th...

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Maen and seconde/seconde/ stir up a special Manhattan 37 Time+Tide
Maen Jun 29, 2023

Maen and seconde/seconde/ stir up a special Manhattan 37

Romaric André of seconde/seconde/ teams up with Maen for an unexpect take on the Manhattan 37 The integrated-bracelet gets a literal cherry on top of its handset, as well as a new magenta dial The 37-piece limited edition is powered by an élaboré-grade Sellita SW200 Every chance Romaric André gets to add his twist to … ContinuedThe post Maen and seconde/seconde/ stir up a special Manhattan 37 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Getting Hands On With The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni Jun 29, 2023

Getting Hands On With The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

The new Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 Days) is a surprising watch and wearing it for a couple of weeks made me seriously consider the piece. But, not for the reasons I thought when I first saw the press release earlier this year! What We Love Vintage styled design aestheticGreat wearing, slim case profileThe textured, smoked gradient dial What We Don’t Case is a little too darkNo date (personal preference)Wire lugs take a little getting used to Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8.5/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 When Panerai released the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 Days) back in March for Watches and Wonders, I was immediately drawn to it, the distressed case, the textured smoked dial and the classic Radiomir look. So when I had the option of what Panerai’s I’d like to review next, I immediately jumped at the Radiomir Otto Giorni in blue. The new Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni in blue First Impressions In my experience, press images and renders of watches either go one of two ways. They either make the watch look super cool and the actual piece is a little underwhelming in person, or it goes the other way – they really don’t do it justice at all. Laying eyes on the new Radiomir for the first time, my initial reaction was “This is not quite what I excepted!” but in a good way. The distressed steel was a little darker than expected, the case was thinner and the 45mm diameter case did not look or feel this big at all. And the texture...

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Andersen Genève Introduces the Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition SJX Watches
Jun 27, 2023

Andersen Genève Introduces the Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition

The Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition adds another shade to the Andersen Genève collection that places dial-work above all else with its expensive, hand-made guilloché dial. Having initially been released to mark the brand’s 40th anniversary back in 2020 with a blue gold dial, the new jumping hours retains same dial but instead does it in pink gold. It celebrates the independent brand’s long-standing relationship with its Japanese clients, being created to celebrate this deep bond. Initial thoughts It is only possible to start and finish discussing this model by talking about the dial. It has more of a dominating presence than you will find on most other watches simply because there is so much dial. Originally done in blue gold, the dial is now in a “salmon” shade might seem a little old hat to many as it has been tagged as a trendy colour for several years now. Though the dial colour feels a little passé since it has been done so often, the dial is still impressively executed in terms of quality. The link between the dial colour and Japan is less obvious. The company’s chief executive, Pierre-Alexandre Aeschlimann, told us the brand did not consult with anyone in Japan about this design of the jumping hours. Still, Japanese collectors have long been trendsetters with a love for independent watchmaking, particularly in the 1980s and 1990s, so it comes as no surprise that Andersen Genève continues to see them as a valuable market. During that period, Andersen G...

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RECOMMENDED VIEWING: Watchfinder & Co’s Andrew Morgan tells the story of the collector-made Lyrique watch Time+Tide
Jun 26, 2023

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: Watchfinder & Co’s Andrew Morgan tells the story of the collector-made Lyrique watch

With each new release of a watch, for every person that comments they are ready to swipe their credit card, there are three more criticising everything they think is wrong with the watch. In a world where more people are consuming watch media and buying watches, many consider themselves connoisseurs of watch design. With prices … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED VIEWING: Watchfinder & Co’s Andrew Morgan tells the story of the collector-made Lyrique watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Schwarz Etienne Jun 25, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep.55: Variety is the Spice of Life

On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss covers a diverse group of new releases. We start at the high end with some new chronographs by Singer Reimagined and then head over to a limited quartet by Elka with some help from Ace Jewelers. Next up was a truly wild creation by Schwarz Etienne that was designed by vaunted designer, Eric Giroud. Last, we celebrate Alpina’s 140th anniversary with a look at their incredibly limited and incredibly cool new square watches powered by a vintage caliber. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep.55: Variety is the Spice of Life appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Ming 18.01 H41 and 27.01: Revolution and Evolution – Reprise Quill & Pad
Ming Jun 25, 2023

Ming 18.01 H41 and 27.01: Revolution and Evolution – Reprise

Just when Joshua Munchow thought he was out, Ming Watches pulled him back in! The brand is (still) on a roll with two pieces having been nominated for the final round of the 2020 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève plus a new concept featuring an AgenGraphe chronograph movement by Agenhor. Here Joshua checks out the GPHG contenders, Ming's 18.01 and 27.01, two very different watches.

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Alpina Releases a Surprising Limited Edition for a Big Anniversary in the Heritage Carrée Mechanical Worn & Wound
Alpina Releases Jun 23, 2023

Alpina Releases a Surprising Limited Edition for a Big Anniversary in the Heritage Carrée Mechanical

Alpina is celebrating their 140th anniversary this year, and the brand that refers to themselves as the inventors of the sports watch have released a rather surprising limited edition to celebrate the occasion. Most recent Alpinas are very much in that very specific sport and adventure watch genre, and fit a familiar profile with modern sensibilities and a design language that speaks to their overall ruggedness. The new limited edition is cut from a very different cloth, and communes directly with the brand’s long history through the components of the watch itself. Using recently discovered and expertly restored vintage movements from the Alpina archives, the Alpiner Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years is partially a history lesson, but also an example of a creative way to pay respect to the past.  This one starts with the movement. The Calibre 490 running inside the Heritage Carrée Mechanical was originally produced in 1938. A total of 28 vintage movements were recently uncovered by Alpina, and have been fully restored to function as they were originally intended when they came off the production line 85 years ago. The rectangular movements were not just ordinary, run of the mill calibers for Alpina at the time, but incorporated new features like a crown assembly that was patented to protect against the intrusion of dust into the case, and robust construction that would predict Alpina’s focus on sports watches in the years to come. The manually wound caliber beats...

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[Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph Worn & Wound
Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz Dial Green Jun 23, 2023

[Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph

SYE (Start Your Engine) is a French watch brand born of the founder’s interest in classic cars, and of course, watches. Not a new story, but their approach to watch design is. SYE has specifically honed in on the idea of leather hood straps for inspiration, appreciating how they incorporate a natural material in with otherwise metal creations. The result is the Mot1on (motion) series of watches, which utilize a novel, complicated, and stylish strap system to fuse metal and leather. $650 [Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph Case Titanium Movement Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz Dial Green Panda Lume Hands Only Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 50M Dimensions 40.5 x 39.5mm Thickness 14mm Lug Width mm Crown Push-Pull Warranty Yes Price $650 As you’ll see in the video below, the SYE Mot1on chronograph comes in pieces in a box, requiring you to interact with the product upon arrival. Assembly is simple enough, and forces you to appreciate the quality of the product. The watch head has some unique details that give it personality, but the strap itself is what really impressed me. It’s a complex and high-end construction that could cost as much as the whole watch itself if a luxury brand made it. As someone with some experience in making leather straps, it really impressed me. The watch shown in the video is the Bullitt Limited Edition, which is the only SYE to feature a titanium case at this time. Measuring 40.5mm in diameter, it’s essential...

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Breitling Launches a Pair of Motorcycle Themed Collaborations in their Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Breitling Launches Jun 23, 2023

Breitling Launches a Pair of Motorcycle Themed Collaborations in their Permanent Collection

Breitling’s long history has continuously been dotted with opportunities to push the brand forward and introduce a new crowd to the Swiss brand. One way to do this is through a continued focus on partnering with brands that complement the Breitling’s mythology, particularly those with a focus on adventure, speed, and adrenaline. Take, for example, the latest releases from Breitling’s Top Time line-up. Originally designed in the 1960’s by Willy Breitling, grandson of the family company’s founder Léon, as a response to the growing interest in motosports. The popular model, worn by design aficionados and 007’s alike, has only increased in popularity over its six-decade span. Now, both Triumph and Deus Ex Machina are putting their own spin on the Top Time platform once again, after a series of previous successful collaborations along similar lines. Released this week, both the Top Time B01 Triumph and Top Time B01 Deus nod to the freewheeling spirit of the decades before while situating their own mark on the brand for the modern wearer. Both the Triumph and the Deus follow a blueprint established in previous collaborations, including the ice blue dial on the Triumph and playful accents on the Deus, but the new watches feature Breitling’s B01 chronograph caliber, whereas the earlier references used an ETA derived Caliber 23. That upgraded caliber is housed within the same 41mm stainless steel case as its predecessors. Often called the “unconventional chronograp...

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Norqain jazzes up the Wild One with skeleton-dialled duo Time+Tide
Norqain jazzes up Jun 23, 2023

Norqain jazzes up the Wild One with skeleton-dialled duo

Making waves upon its September 2022 release, the Norqain Wild One signalled that Jean-Claude Biver’s advisory role in the brand wasn’t just a marketing move, but rather a shot at the big leagues. With a new composite case made of the brand’s proprietary Norteq material and Kenissi power, it was clear that Norqain is investing … ContinuedThe post Norqain jazzes up the Wild One with skeleton-dialled duo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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