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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

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Introducing the New Sinn 613 St and 613 St UTC Worn & Wound
Sinn 613 St Mar 4, 2025

Introducing the New Sinn 613 St and 613 St UTC

The new year has already seen a slate of new Sinn timepieces with fresh color schemes, designs, and materials. But the German brand hasn’t forgotten the importance of the watch as a tool, either, and the new 613 St and 613 St UTC are prime examples of Sinn’s dedication to functionality in tandem with form.  With a crisp matte black dial and white chronograph subdial at 6 o’clock, the 613 St embodies Sinn’s most recognizable principles of legible design. Day and date windows sit at the 3 position, with Sinn’s Ar-Dehumidifying Technology logo at 4, indicating that the 613 St comes with the proprietary anti-fogging technology. A second subdial-black with light gray borders and numerals-occupies the 9 o’clock position, giving the 613 St both 60-minute and “running seconds” stopwatch functions.  The 613 St UTC variant adds another layer of complication, with a second time zone featuring light gray 24-hour markers around the inside of the dial. Here, a UTC text detail also replaces the day window and the 60-second subdial is infringed upon, but all else remains the same between the two siblings design-wise. Indices and the hour, minute, and second hands on both models are luminescent, as is the key mark on the minute-ratcheting captive diver’s bezel. An anti-reflective sapphire crystal sits atop the dial. Both 613 St variants are protected by the same bead-blasted stainless steel case, measuring 41mm in diameter. A screw-down crown and caseback seal in th...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Yellow Gold SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Mar 4, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Yellow Gold

A boutique exclusive to celebrate the opening of its Menlo Park store in Silicon Valley, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Yellow Gold is perhaps the most extravagant iteration of H. Moser & Cie.’s sports watch to date. This new iteration retains the same dimensions and specifications as its stainless steel predecessor, but is entirely in 18k yellow gold, giving it a somewhat retro feel that complements the “lobster” integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts Although the trend for integrated-bracelet sports watches has waned, the Streamliner still stands out as one of the better offerings in the category from independent watchmakers. It combines a distinctive design – rare in the segment – with mostly affordable pricing. At CHF125,000, the new Streamliner Tourbillon is of course not one of the affordable models since it is entirely in gold, but it is a good looking watch. Arguably the only weakness of the model is the increasing number of high-end Streamliner models, both in precious metals and set with gemstones, which make this less unique than it would otherwise be. Boutique exclusive Apart from its all-yellow gold construction, the new Streamliner Tourbillon mirrors its stainless steel predecessor, featuring a 40 mm-wide and 12.1 mm-thick cushion-shaped case. Visually, the focal point is the open-worked dial showcasing a one-minute flying tourbillon at six o’clock. Faceted baton-style hour markers and hour and minute hands are plated in yellow gold, compleme...

First Look: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Mar 3, 2025

First Look: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon 38 mm

One of the less prominent, but arguably interesting, debuts for Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 38 mm in sand gold. A compact watch in muted, pale tones but discreetly glammed up with diamonds, the new tourbillon is the first instance of the ultra-thin cal. 2968 (also known as RD#3) appears something other than a Royal Oak. Initial thoughts The 38 mm tourbillon is the sort of watch that’s more interesting than it initially looks. Though it appears to be a ladies’ watch at first glance, largely due to the somewhat unattractive beige stitch-less strap, it is arguably a unisex watch in both size and style. I would have preferred limiting the diamonds to the case middle for a low-key, formal appearance, but even as it is the gem setting is quite modest. But the new tourbillon isn’t just an aesthetic exercise. The cal. 2968 inside is a nifty movement with some clever details that keep it exceedingly thin. The 38 mm case also demonstrates the Code 11.59 works well in a smaller format. This is especially useful since many iterations of the Code 11.59 feel a bit too large (though in some instances the thickness is a technical requirement). Image – Audemars Piguet RD#3 Entirely in the brand’s proprietary sand gold alloy – best described as a pleasantly washed-out red gold – the case measures 38 mm in diameter and 9.6 mm in thickness. It’s set with 235 brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs, crown, ...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Sigma’s New Camera, A Lost Backpack Saves A Duo, and The iPhone 16E Worn & Wound
Mar 1, 2025

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Sigma’s New Camera, A Lost Backpack Saves A Duo, and The iPhone 16E

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. The Sigma BF: Minimalism Meets Photography This week Sigma announced a brand new camera, the BF, which is “stripped to the essence but packed with power” according to Sigma. In an age where every generation of cameras has more than the last, the BF stripped away everything they deemed unnecessary. Looking at the BF, you won’t find a normal grip, a hot shoe, or even an SD card slot, as the BF comes with 230GB of internal storage. The BF does feature a singular USB-C port, through which you can download your images and charge the camera, if you wish. The BF’s L mount allows for compatibility with many lenses, including 9 matching Sigma lenses. Apple’s Newest iPhone: The 16E Much like the Sigma BF, Apple’s newest iPhone, the 16E, offers consumers a minimalist and cheaper option among their current offerings. Maybe it’s better described as a “basic” iPhone, the 16E features a single camera, a 60hz display, and a cheaper price point, coming in at $599 for the 128gb model. While creating the 16E and removing certain features, Apple also decided to remove Magsafe, much to the dismay of many. Some fans may enjoy this new, simplistic offering, but  as the Ver...

[VIDEO] The M.A.D.1S: First Impressions, and Scratching the MB&F; Itch Worn & Wound
MB&F; Feb 28, 2025

[VIDEO] The M.A.D.1S: First Impressions, and Scratching the MB&F; Itch

As a watch enthusiast, you inevitably come to admire certain brands and watches that you know, deep down, you’ll just never be able to own. It doesn’t take long in this hobby to become acutely aware that it’s insanely expensive, and there’s a whole miniature industry of watches that exist in absolutely untouchable realms. If you’re really lucky, maybe every so often you get a chance to see a watch in this class at an industry or collector event, but we’re talking about watches produced in the hundreds per year, max. They are genuinely rare. The odds of getting a glimpse of one of these super watches is always against you.  MB&F;, for me, has always been this brand. They are perhaps the watches I love the most that I have the smallest chance of ever actually owning. Trust me when I tell you I’ve made peace with that many times over, as most enthusiasts have with whatever watches or brands are truly out of reach. This hobby would be truly miserable, after all, if we let the disappointment of never actually being able to own a six figure watch ruin our day. So when the M.A.D.1 project surfaced a few years ago, I along with many other watch lovers got a shot of hope injected directly into their veins. Surely you know the story by now: Max Büsser, as a “thank you” gesture to his many partners and colleagues that have helped him create so many incredible but wildly expensive timepieces over the years, designed a watch that was made with the spirit of an MB&F;, ...

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero 400 another Feb 27, 2025

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black

The latest iteration of Dior’s asymmetrical wristwatch builds on last year’s all-black release. The new Chiffre Rouge Chronograph retains the signature asymmetrical DLC-coated steel case, but adds a striking red-gradient dial adorned with Dior’s trademark geometric pattern. But this is not merely a “fashion watch”, as inside is the Zenith El Primero 400, another example of the group-level movement strategy at LVMH. Initial thoughts Dior has been producing watches since the 1970s, but struggles to resonate with watch enthusiasts, who often dismiss its offerings as “fashion watches” – a challenge faced by other fashion or leather goods makers. The brand has been making “serious” watches on and off over its history, and last year reintroduced a Chiffre Rouge Chronograph powered by the El Primero. While the stark, edgy design of the watch is not for everyone, it is mechanically credible, albeit steeply priced. At US$17,000, the price is definitely more Dior than Zenith. It’s also substantially pricier than last year’s model with the same movement. The value proposition is difficult to justify. A more advanced movement, like Zenith’s latest generation El Primero 3600, would make this more compelling. Red gradient dial The new Chiffre Rouge mirrors last year’s model, retaining the signature cannage-patterned crown and polished bumpers on the right flank. The chief update is the red gradient dial, which features Dior’s signature geometric motif. Powe...

Introducing: The Havid Nagan Classic One - The Los Angeles-Based Brand’s Third Model Fratello
Havid Nagan Feb 26, 2025

Introducing: The Havid Nagan Classic One - The Los Angeles-Based Brand’s Third Model

If you have not heard of Havid Nagan, it is about time you did. F.P.Journe alumnus Aren Bazerkanian founded the brand in 2022, and he is doing things properly. Despite barely three years of the brand’s existence, Bazerkanian dropped his third watch recently: the Havid Nagan Classic One. Havid Nagan does not follow your average […] Visit Introducing: The Havid Nagan Classic One - The Los Angeles-Based Brand’s Third Model to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades Fratello
Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades Feb 26, 2025

Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades

Retro watches have been all the rage for more than a decade now. When we review those releases, though, most are analog and inspired by highly collectible vintage timepieces with lengthy stories. But what about the omnipresent everyman’s watches we took for granted as kids or teenagers? Every so often, they return too, and if […] Visit Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades to read the full article.

First Look – A New Three-Toned Version of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Monochrome
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Offshore Feb 25, 2025

First Look – A New Three-Toned Version of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore debuted in 1993 as the Royal Oak’s bolder, more virile brother with a muscular case and bold juxtaposition of materials. In 2021, the “Beast” was given a facelift, resulting in a more ergonomic 43mm case with redesigned pushers housing the brand’s integrated automatic flyback chronograph movement. No stranger to ceramic […]

Announcing the Windup Watch Fair Dallas Lineup! Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Christopher Ward Feb 24, 2025

Announcing the Windup Watch Fair Dallas Lineup!

The countdown to the Windup Watch Fair Dallas is on, and we’re excited to unveil the incredible list of presenting brands who are helping bring this event to life! As the premier gathering for watch enthusiasts, collectors, and those new to the hobby, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. Just as a reminder, here are the details of our Dallas event: Hickory Street Annex 501 S Second Ave #200, Dallas, TX 75226 Saturday, March 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, March 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public No registration necessary This year, we are thrilled to have a fantastic lineup of presenting brands who share our love for timepieces and support the watch community. The Windup Watch Fair also wouldn’t be possible without the generous support of our valued lead sponsors, who help make the event a truly special experience: Lead Sponsors Christopher Ward Christopher Ward is an Anglo-Swiss watchmaker with a simple aim: to put premium quality watches within the reach of everyone. Founded in 2004, the company prides itself on combining traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques with contemporary English design. Models like the Bel Canto, Trident, Sealander, and The Twelve are admired among watch lovers, while CW’s Calibre SH21 was the first in-house mechanical movement from an English brand in over 50 years. Oris Oris dives into 2025 with a joyful nod to this special heritage design with the 60th Anniversary Edition, a watch that faithfully revives the charm an...

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Xeric Timeline Retrograde Worn & Wound
Feb 24, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Xeric Timeline Retrograde

When I attended the New York Windup Watch Fair for the first time, I was exposed to a multitude of brands and had my eyes opened to just how unique the watch industry could really be. Among the brands that I was introduced to, Xeric stood out due to their futuristic, space themed and outright eccentric designs. As I’ve followed Xeric, they’ve continued down this same path, which brings us to the Timeline Retrograde. With this new release, Xeric has set out to revive the double retrograde movement, making it relevant and affordable for modern collectors. To do this, Xeric has introduced the “Xeric Caliber X5.1” movement: to put it simply, this is a custom built module which stacks upon a Miyota 9015, a common movement in the microbrand community known for its reliability and affordability. This module gets you a retrograde display without the exorbitant costs associated with developing an entirely new movement from scratch. Additionally, since the foundation of this watch is a 9015, it should prove to be a reliable timepiece for years to come, but also be serviceable in case something happens.  The standout feature of the Xeric Timeline Retrograde is, without a doubt, its retrograde time display. Unlike traditional analog dials where multiple hands simply rotate around the face, the two retrograde hands “sweep” across the dial in an arc and then jump back to the start. The hours are shown by a shorter hand that glides from 12 to 12, while the minutes are indica...

Hands-On: the Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton Worn & Wound
Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton Feb 21, 2025

Hands-On: the Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton

I have a feeling that if you asked most watch enthusiasts to tell you their thoughts about Rado, they’d start with the Captain Cook. The brand’s diver has been revived in recent years and become an enthusiast favorite, appearing in both traditional vintage inspired designs as well as more forward thinking and tech oriented variants. I’ve handled my share of Captain Cooks and while I think it’s a perfectly fine dive watch, there’s something a little generic about it and it’s never quite grabbed my interest. It seems positioned as a calling card product for Rado, but I find myself wondering if it’s really the watch that we should most closely identify with the brand.  Because the truth is, when it comes to Rado, they are far more adventurous than the Captain Cook would lead you to believe. And, for that matter, they’re more adventurous than we should have any right to expect given their fairly competitive price points and their place within a big luxury watch group, not typically the home of risk taking when it comes to watchmaking. Beginning with the DiaStar in the 1960s (which featured a case made from an ultra hard alloy that was among the first watches marketed as “unscratchable”) and on into the 1980s when the brand really began hitting their stride with ceramic, Rado has carved out a niche for itself as a brand willing to experiment with both raw materials and the form and function of a watch.  There are many examples of this throughout the brand...

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold Burgundy SJX Watches
Blancpain Bronze Gold Feb 21, 2025

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold Burgundy

While the original Seamaster 300M from 2019 was a no-frills, James Bond-inspired watch, the Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold and Burgundy is a refined evolution of the design that employs Omega’s proprietary gold alloy. Used by Omega as well as its sister company Blancpain, Bronze Gold is an alloy of bronze, palladium, silver, and 37.5% gold - making it a 9k gold alloy - that has enhanced corrosion resistance while having the warm hue of bronze but without the accentuated patina that accompanies conventional versions of the metal. Aside from the Bronze Gold case and burgundy bezel, the design remains virtually unchanged, retaining the signature “twisted” lugs of the Seamaster. Initial thoughts Omega has introduced several variants of the model since the Seamaster 300M 007 Edition, among them the recent “No-Date”. This time-only design, which omits the date window, has enjoyed commercial success, highlighting the appeal of a cleaner dial, especially on a watch with some vintage flavour. In this context, the Seamaster 300M Bronze Gold is a natural evolution of the collection, bringing it upmarket as is the norm for a successful model. The upgrade, however, comes at a price. At US$13,900 on a rubber strap, the Bronze Gold edition is more than twice the price of the steel model. And the version on a matching Bronze Gold mesh bracelet costs a whopping US$27,900. Granted, the new Seamaster 300M is gold, but not really, since it’s a 9k alloy, which is far below th...

The Citizen Promaster Navihawk is Now Available in a New, Smaller Size Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Navihawk Feb 20, 2025

The Citizen Promaster Navihawk is Now Available in a New, Smaller Size

When it comes to “big” and “busy”, few do it better than the Citizen Promaster Navihawk. With a commanding presence packed with information, the aviation icon has always proven to be accessible in price, but not so much in size. That’s all changing, however, as Citizen unveils the 40mm Promaster Navihawk as part of their revamped Promaster Air collection.  Designed to favor legibility and functionality, the 40mm Navihawk will look familiar to those who know the larger model. It features a stainless steel case with satin finishing, polished accents, and a knurled crown, ringed by a rotating slide rule bezel. Inside the flat sapphire crystal, a complementary internal flange borders a metallic dial, available in three colors-khaki green, copper, and silver.  According to Citizen, the 40mm Navihawk features ⅕ second chronograph timing up to 60 minutes, and 12- and 24-hour time displays. Three black chronograph subdials take up the bottom half of the dial, and a rotated date indicator sits between the 4 and 5 indices. To balance out the date’s stilted location, printed details proclaiming the 200m water resistance and the Navihawk logo occupy the same location on the other side, between the 7 and 8 indices.  Inside, the 40mm Navihawk upholds the original model’s reputation of reliability and practicality. Citizen’s proprietary Caliber B620 Eco-Drive movement utilizes solar power to keep the watch running without use of a battery-very handy for those wit...

Hands-On: the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph in Steel Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Feb 19, 2025

Hands-On: the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph in Steel

Sometimes we lose sight of the fact that our enthusiast romance associated with a mechanical movement can be another’s annoyance. Our beloved rituals of winding and setting, feeling the grinding clicks in your fingertips, and double-checking you’ve set it correctly can act as a barrier to entry for some, leaving a mechanical watch inside a dresser drawer. That is why I am a proponent of luxury brands exploring quartz calibers, particularly within their more popular collections. Removing that barrier and often lowering its price point means that the watch and the hobby as a whole can be accessed by more people, which is the ultimate goal, after all. All that being said, if a luxury brand is going to make a quartz watch and charge a luxury price, you have to make it a good one. Stepping off of my soap box, I’ll happily admit that when TAG Heuer released the Aquaracer with a solar quartz caliber inside, I too scoffed at the price and questioned its purpose. While the design language spoke to me with its warmly hued titanium construction and tasteful accents, I just didn’t understand why TAG Heuer would charge a price many multiples of what other solar quartz calibers commonly sell for. That was until I had the opportunity to have a period of hands-on time with it. I found myself enjoying its lightweight yet solid construction, the fun application of lume, and even became a bit enamored by the angular case lines, which had previously been a bit off-putting. So when I s...

Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M In Bronze Gold And Burgundy Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Feb 19, 2025

Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M In Bronze Gold And Burgundy

By now, we are used to catching glimpses of future Omega Seamaster Diver 300M releases on Daniel Craig’s wrist. Despite his retirement as 007, Craig is the Biel-based brand’s go-to ambassador for new Seamaster variants. And with great success, we might add. The online watch universe goes wild whenever the British actor straps a yet-to-be-released […] Visit Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M In Bronze Gold And Burgundy to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Sternglas Tachymeter 2.0 Fratello
Feb 17, 2025

Hands-On With The New Sternglas Tachymeter 2.0

Sternglas continues to evolve its watch lineup rapidly. Today’s new Tachymeter 2.0 is a great example because it replaces the original model after a short three-year production run. We like it when a company is not content to rest with its existing designs. The question, as always, is whether the newest watch is an improvement. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Sternglas Tachymeter 2.0 to read the full article.

Alto Introduces Monochrome Editions of the Art 01 SJX Watches
Cartier Feb 17, 2025

Alto Introduces Monochrome Editions of the Art 01

Now entering its second year, Alto has returned with two new editions of its debut model, the Art 01. The Art 01 Monochrome Grey and Monochrome Black editions feature bead-blasted titanium cases that enhance the brand’s distinctive futurist aesthetic. Founded by Thibaud Guittard, the Paris-based brand has also announced the arrival of Raphaël Abeillon as Creative Director. Mr Abeillon joins Alto after more than a decade designing watches at Cartier. Initial thoughts Over the past few years, many brands have doubled down on integrated bracelet sport watches and historical re-issues, leading to fatigue among collectors and insiders alike. In this context, the Alto Art 01 is a breath of fresh air, pulling inspiration from far-flung fields like yacht design, cinema, and contemporary art. While the hexagonal louvered dial is unusual and attractive, the Art 01 shines because of its case design. Reasonably sized at 45 mm x 40 mm, the bead-blasted titanium case features faceted sapphire crystals front and back. Thanks to its slim micro-rotor movement, the Art 01 is quite svelte at just 8 mm thick. The Art 01 is powered by a bespoke micro-rotor movement made for Alto by Le Cercle des Horlogers. On paper, the movement looks fairly ordinary, ticking at 4 Hz and running for 48 hours on a full wind. That said, the movement is unusual in that it is open-worked and partially made of titanium, which contributes to the light weight of the watch. In terms of pricing, the Monochrome Editi...

Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey Consolidate Control of Greubel Forsey SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Greubel Forsey has just Feb 14, 2025

Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey Consolidate Control of Greubel Forsey

Greubel Forsey has just announced that ownership of the company has once again reverted to Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, confirming rumours that have been circulating since Michel Nydegger replaced Antonio Calce as chief executive. With Mr Calce’s departure, the brand was pivoted back to more traditional complicated watches, as exemplified by the recent Hand Made 2 and Nano Foudroyante EWT. The shares owned by Mr Calce, was acquired by either the two cofounders or the company itself. The statement issued by Greubel Forsey states “Mr. Calce no longer holding any shares in the company or being affiliated with it.” Mr Calce came on board in 2020, and redirected the brand towards high-end sports watches. Industry talk at the time was that he was not only pivoting the company’s products, but also engaged in a search for a buyer for the brand. With a majority stake, Mr Greubel continues as the board’s chairman. Though his exact role is unspecified, Mr Forsey will presumably take off where he left off, as both a brand ambassador and watch constructor. The return of the two founders as the company’s only shareholders is the latest twist in the story of the company. Besides Mr Calce, Richemont once owned a stake in the brand. The Swiss luxury group, which also owns Cartier and Lange, acquired 20% of the brand in 2006 but the hoped-for synergies or acquisition never came to pass. Richemont sold the stake back to Greubel Forsey in 2022 , just after Mr Calce came on b...

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Vertex M60 Aqualion ND Worn & Wound
Rolex Feb 14, 2025

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Vertex M60 Aqualion ND

“If you’ve heard the phrase ‘one-watch guy,’ you’re likely far beyond being one.” I’ve used that line a lot the last few years. In the last decade, the collective watch community has evangelized the ‘one-watch guy,’ transforming the concept from a simple idea into a lionized ideal rooted in the days when the Don Drapers of the world would get home from work, roll up their sleeves, and mow the lawn in cordovan loafers, Oxford cloth shirts, and a 4-digit Rolex. For better or for worse (honestly, mostly for better), we don’t live in that world anymore. Start looking around, and you’ll quickly realize that the modern one-watch guy is far more likely to own an Apple Watch or Garmin than a 1016. And yet, the theory of the ‘one-watch guy’ continues to permeate, no doubt helped along by people like me who keep writing story intros like this one. There’s a romantic simplicity to the idea; a sense that, if a collector can somehow encapsulate their taste into a single watch, they have achieved the ultimate in collecting prowess, or at least some advanced level of enthusiast zen. Generally, ‘zen’ is not a word I would use to describe myself, and I’m certainly not a one-watch guy, but I can understand why the concept holds appeal. In collecting, as in so many things, constraint can be a gift, forcing our own perspective into stark relief and keeping us accountable to our taste. From that perspective, a one-watch collection is the ultimate constraint, a...