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Results for Caliber 11 (Chronomatic)

1,402 articles · 127 videos found · page 49 of 51

Hermès Introduces the H08 Automatic SJX Watches
Hermes Apr 14, 2021

Hermès Introduces the H08 Automatic

Conceived as an everyday watch with a modern aesthetic, the Hermès H08 is the latest mechanical watch for men from the Parisian leather goods maker. As is now the norm for Hermès, the H08 is a proper mechanical watch that’s powered by an automatic calibre made by respected movement maker Vaucher, while also having its own custom typography created specifically for the H08 (just as it was for the Slim d’Hermès wristwatch). Slightly sporty in design, the H08 has a cushion-shaped case that’s available in titanium or an unusual graphene composite. And the titanium version is also available with a matching bracelet that is notably well executed. Initial thoughts I played with the various versions of the watch, and I like it. They are well designed, well made, and importantly, well priced. The case is smartly finished with a variety of contrasting textures, while also having a screw-down crown and 100 m water resistance. And it contains a Vaucher movement, which is an automatic assurance of quality in terms of construction, and finishing is sufficient at the very least. And it’s worth pointing out that the titanium version is also available on a bracelet that is done surprisingly well for a watch of this price. From left: Graphene composite, titanium, and DLC-coated titanium That said, the fact that it comes from Hermès as opposed to an established watchmaker will no doubt be a major hindrance for a watch enthusiast. But I can say with certainty that the H08 is a we...

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2021 Zenith Defy 21 Ultrablue Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy 21 Ultrablue Review Mar 23, 2021

2021 Zenith Defy 21 Ultrablue Review

Pros: Calibre El Primero 9004 and it’s 1/100th of a second Chronograph Skeletonised Ultrabule dial Microblasted titanium case  Cons: Wrist sizes smaller than 6.5ich won’t be able to enjoy the 44mm case size Some may find it to be too thick on the wrist Spend countless minutes staring at the 1/100th of second hand in motion Over All Rating: 8.4/10 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 In June 2020, Zenith introduced the first new “spectrum” of colour for their DEFY 21 chronograph model. The DEFY 21 model was given an ultraviolet finish, which let’s be honest was absolutely stunning! The ultraviolet treatment was given to the majority of the timepiece, the main plate, the rotor on the case back and the colour on the fabric effect strap. Combine this with the subtle matte finish of the micro-blasted titanium case, and what you are left with is a timepiece that is hard to put down.  View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) Now, Zenith has released this DEFY 21 model in their latest colour scheme, Ultrablue. Never being afraid to create artistic masterpieces in watchmaking, Zenith has introduced this latest colour on the back of what can only be seen as a successful launch to the DEFY 21 Ultravoilet. The colours used in the Ultrablue to produce the standout effect are cool tones of deep indigo and electric blue. The only question is, does the Ultrablue live up to the same hype as the...

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2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review Feb 12, 2021

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review

Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch  Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey  Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10  Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date.  Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...

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TAG Heuer Announces Partnership with Porsche SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Announces Partnership Feb 4, 2021

TAG Heuer Announces Partnership with Porsche

Collaborations between watchmakers and automobiles manufactures are common, but unsurprising given the focus on engineering and styling shared by the two industries. Despite the obvious synergies, the watch-and-car tie ups of recent years have rarely enjoyed unbridled success. Now TAG Heuer is seeking to upend the trend with a partnership with Porsche, the German marque whose 911 is the longest-lived sports car in history. The partnership is being inaugurated with the Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition Calibre Heuer 02 – a thoroughly apt product given that the flagship product of each brand shares the same name inspired by the Carrera Panamericana of the 1950s. Initial thoughts The inaugural watch of the partnership has modest ambitions. On the surface, it appears to be a gentle facelift of the Carrera Sport Chronograph introduced last year. The case and movement remain the same, but the design features a few subtle elements drawn from Porsche’s racing pedigree. The execution is smart without being over-the-top, avoiding the pitfall of excess automotive elements that accompany many automotive collaborations. At US$6,050 on a bracelet, the Carrera Porsche Chronograph is priced at a small and reasonable premium of about 5% over the standard model. Compared with watches resulting from earlier automotive partnerships, the Carrera Porsche Chronograph is affordable, and remains a good value proposition, offering a little extra for Porsche and sports car enthusiasts....

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2021 Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Edition Review WatchAdvice
Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Jan 19, 2021

2021 Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Edition Review

Pros: Beautiful Bronze that will Patina over timeLatest calibre 401 with small seconds at 6’oclock and 5-day power reserveBeautiful blue dial and dial layout Cons: Some may find it pricyBlue woven elastic strap should have been an additional strapNo open case back to showcase the calibre 401 Overall Rating: 7.5 Value for money – 7.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 7.5/10Build Quality – 7.5/10 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Oris has come back to once again honour one of the most influential and inspirational figures of the 20th century, Carl Brashear. Keeping in the theme of Oris’s Carl Brashear limited edition watches of the past, this latest timepiece follows the same colour palette and similar design cues, with now being given the brand’s latest and greatest movement. The Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 limited edition is a special piece, and we at WatchAdvice were certainly happy to be one of the first to be able to review it!  Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition However, before we get into the watch, it wouldn’t do it justice without knowing who Carl Brashear was and why he was so iconic in the diving world. Born in 1931, Carl Brashear was enlisted in the U.S Navy in 1948, just after the Navy was desegregated by the U.S President Harry S. Truman. Carl Brashear faced many hardships and hostility during his career, especially racism while attending diving school in Bayonne, New Jersey. Brashear’s first emplo...

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Zenith Introduces the Final Remake of the Original, 1969 El Primero Trio SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 7, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Final Remake of the Original, 1969 El Primero Trio

After having brought back the A384 and A386 for the 50th anniversary of the El Primero in 2019, Zenith has finally remade the last of the three original, 1969 El Primero chronographs. Like the earlier two re-editions, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is faithful to the original, retaining both the proportions of the case and dial – while also boasting a historically-correct movement, an accomplishment exclusive to Zenith since its never stopped making the calibre. As it was with the vintage originals, the A385 remake has the same the tonneau-shaped case found on the A384, but stands out with its smoked dial finish, a defining feature of the original, which also has a cool backstory. In 1970, an original A385 was fastened to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 operated by Air France on a flight from Paris to New York – and the watch kept perfect time on landing. A vintage brochure showing the original El Primero trio that made their debut in 1969 Initial thoughts Being a spot-on reissue means the A385 is unimaginative, but that precisely what makes it appealing. In fact, it’s difficult to not like the watch, which retains all of the qualities of the original – from design to landmark movement – while being reasonably priced, as Zenith watches most often are. And the icing on the cake is the dial finish, a warm tone sets it apart from the many El Primero re-editions, most of which are dressed in plainer colours. The smoked, coffee-colour dial also evokes the faded, “t...

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VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich” which Jan 5, 2021

VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last

Editor’s note: Today, Omega did what they had been hinting at for months: they launched eight new Speedmaster references across four models, all with the new Master Chronometer Calibre 3861. The four references include regular versions with Hesalite and Sapphire and precious metal versions in Omega’s proprietary Canopus gold and Sedna gold, all with options … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Thin “Black Gold Flux” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 7, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Thin “Black Gold Flux”

Unusually for a brand typically associated with robustly-constructed complicated watches, A. Lange & Söhne is unveiling its second ultra-thin wristwatch for the year, the Saxonia Thin “Black Gold Flux”. A limited edition of 50 watches, the new Saxonia Thin is fitted with a dial coated in “black gold flux”, more commonly known as aventurine glass. It’s powered by the hand-wind L093.1, the same calibre found in the 1815 Thin “Homage to F.A. Lange” launched three months ago. Initial thoughts Lange debuted its first aventurine-glass dial in 2018 with a Saxonia Thin that had a “copper blue”. A departure from the brand’s typical look, the sparkly dial gave a somewhat plain dial a lively, striking appearance. Arguably ideal for a dress watch because of its subtle nature, the aventurine-glass dial looks unadorned at a distance, but reveals the glittering metallic flecks up close and under the right light. It’s a useful variation of Lange’s house style that manages to be different in a discreet manner, while still being formal. Venetian glass Measuring 40 mm but standing only 6.2 mm high, the Saxonia Thin appears slightly larger than it is due to its proportions. The new dial should reduce its perceived size somewhat, since darker dials typically appear smaller. The dial is covered in aventurine glass, also known as goldstone, which is essentially glass with crystalline metallic inclusions that give it a characteristic sparkly finish. Invented by Vene...

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New: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary Deployant
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Dec 3, 2020

New: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary

The latest co-creation between TAG Heuer and Bamford Watch Department, the world’s ultimate hub for personalised luxury, is an exclusive Aquaracer timepiece equipped with the Calibre 5 Automatic movement and limited to 1,500 pieces. Press release information with editorial commentary in italics. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Reference WAY208F.BF0638 is available now. Retail S$5,500Read More

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Grand Seiko Introduces the Seiko 140th Anniversary Re-Creation SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre which Nov 24, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Seiko 140th Anniversary Re-Creation

Announced alongside the exceptional but exorbitant Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary, the Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition Re-Creation (ref. SBGW260) is a hand-wound remake of the ref. 3180 of 1960, the first-ever Grand Seiko. And it is a Grand Seiko, but commemorates the 140 years since the founding of Seiko. Notably, its in 18k rose gold, a metal that’s rarely used by Grand Seiko. And although the 9S64 movement inside is an existing calibre, it’s finished more elaborately compared to earlier versions of the movement. Initial thoughts Being a faithful remake, the SBGW260 has the same appeal as the vintage-original Grand Seiko “First”. Although the colour scheme is unusual for a Grand Seiko – this is the first 3180 remake, and one of the few Grand Seikos, in rose gold – the warm palette suits the vintage style. But more notable is the movement upgrade in terms of decoration. Though still the same workhorse 9S64 found in all remakes of the “First”, the movement has been dressed up blued screws and straight graining on the bridges – plus a solid-gold plate for the anniversary – giving it a look usually associated with higher-end Seiko watches, but is increasingly being rolled out across the price spectrum. It isn’t quite the haute horlogerie finish found on movements made at the Micro Artist Studio, but the decoration appears comparable to Swiss brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, which is to say it’s fine but workmanlike. And while it is hearte...

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Hands-on review: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Deployant
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” DEPLOYANT Oct 24, 2020

Hands-on review: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”

A timepiece shrouded in mystery. Its existence has eluded collectors and Zenith  collaborators alike for decades. As the legend goes, in 1970, not long after Zenith debuted  the groundbreaking El Primero calibre, the manufacture had produced a prototype of a manual-winding chronograph, housed in a blackened steel case – a rarity for the time. Only Read More

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Richard Mille Introduces the RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Sep 8, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph

Having relied on external suppliers for its chronograph movements since the very beginning, Richard Mille has just unveiled its first in-house chronograph calibre in the RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph. Ironically, the “Lifestyle” model name doesn’t do justice to the new CRMC1 movement within. Like most high-end chronographs, the CRMC1 has a column wheel as the one-off switch for the stopwatch, but in a novel twist, it has a pair of oscillating pinions to connect the chronograph wheels to the timekeeping gear train. Initial thoughts Richard Mille’s bestselling chronograph is the RM 11, which is powered by a modular calibre made up of a Vaucher base and a Dubois-Depraz module, making it uninteresting from a technical perspective. The new RM 72-01 is the opposite: it’s powered by a new movement that features a patented construction for the chronograph. Though the innovation in the movement is incremental – essentially reinterpreting existing ideas – it is still original. At the same time, the RM 72-01 is a notably compact watch for a sports chronograph, which should leave it sitting low on the wrist. In fact, the wearability of the RM 72-01 should trump the already excellent ergonomics of most Richard Mille watches. And perhaps most surprising is the price. It costs about the same as the RM 11, but boasts a clearly superior, proprietary movement. Even though the RM 72-01 is an extremely expensive watch – the base model costs about US$185,000 – it...

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Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Aug 27, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597

Endowed with an unmistakable aesthetic, the Breguet Tradition is based on the souscription calibre made by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796. Arguably the pioneer with the open-dial design that exposes the movement, the Tradition’s construction allows for creativity even with basic complications, like a retrograde seconds for instance. The new Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 continues with the overarching theme of the line. Based on the Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097, the 7597 does away with the seconds display and instead installed an oversized retrograde date complication. Initial thoughts I find the Tradition aesthetic unique and charming, thanks to the characteristic, exposed movement construction that can seem haphazardly arranged at times. Despite the angular and geometric shapes of the bridges, most of them are trapezoidal in shape with few parallel edges, bestowing a more organic appearance to the highly mechanical appearance. While a conventional date window is mundane, the retrograde date elevates the complication both visually and mechanically. Retrograde displays are often encountered in Breguet watches – something that started with A.-L. Breguet himself – and are typically done well, both stylistically and technically. The Tradition 7597 is, in short, an attractively designed watch that sticks to Breguet’s tradition strengths in design and mechanics, while offering a useful complication executed in an elegant manner. Tradition restyled The 759...

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TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44mm Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44mm Aug 19, 2020

TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44mm Hands-on Review

As part of Tag Heuer’s 160th-anniversary celebration Tag Heuer recently released four new flagship models. These new models will join the brands existing Evergreen collection. The four new models are different variants of the Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02. This new model is based on the brand’s iconic 1963 racing chronograph “the Carrera” and has been updated with modern styling and performance.  The original 1963 Carrera model was presented as a “race-car dashboard for the wrist”. This watch at the time reflected Jack Heuer’s passion for racing and what was required for drivers to achieve better lap times during racing events. Jack Heuer’s interest in motorsport rose when he heard the story of the iconic Carrera Panamericana race. The Carrera Panamericana race was like no other. It was a 2096-mile-long border-to-border race across Mexico. Drivers would have to face harsh conditions and treacherous desert landscape, all the while travelling at 100mph (+). The race has arguably one of the highest mortality rates per race in the history of motorsport racing, leaving 27 drivers dead. The race lasted only five years and stopped in 1954.  Jack Heuer designed the very first Tag Heuer Carrera as he took inspiration from the Carrera Panamericana race and its legendary status along with the courage and bravery showed by the drivers to tackle the unforgiving conditions. The original Carrera model was designed with dial elements that would serve to improve the ...

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Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Jul 30, 2020

Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review

Earlier in February this year, Raymond Weil unveiled the latest edition in their Freelancer collection. The Freelancer Calibre RW1212 is now available in a green version. Raymond Weil has previously released the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in different colour variants, which include; blue dial, black dial, rose-gold edition and a black dial with rose gold indices and hands.  So what makes the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 model unique to Raymond Weil? It all comes down to the movement used to create this timepiece. Before the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 came along, Raymond Weil used all outsourced movements in their watches. That was until back in 2017, when Raymond Weil created an exclusive in-house movement in collaboration with Sellita. Sellita, as many may know, is the Swiss movement manufacturer that makes movements for brands around the world.  The development team at Raymond Weil worked together with the designers at Sellita for a period of roughly 18-months, to come up with Raymond Weil’s first in-house movement. Although not entirely in-house, it is still quite a feat for one of the few remaining watch companies that are still family-owned since their establishment.  To mark this momentous occasion for the brand, with the movement being a testament to over 40 years of beautiful Swiss watch-making traditions and expertise, Raymond Weil decided to name the calibre after the brand’s Swiss origins. The 1212 in the movement’s name refers back to the postal code of Ray...

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The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport Jul 10, 2020

The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes

Much like a car manufacturer does when it designs a brand new engine, TAG Heuer are making sure that their flagship self-winding chronograph movement, the Calibre Heuer 02, finds its way into every chrono they’ve released this year. And just days after letting us know that their three in-demand limited edition chronographs equipped with the … ContinuedThe post The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breguet Introduces the Tradition Dame 7038 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jul 2, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Dame 7038

Based on the souscription calibre created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the Tradition is characterised by an open, symmetrical movement layout and an off-centered time display. The distinctive look has made it one of Breguet’s modern-day hits, though most variants of the Tradition have been watches for men. The latest Tradition Dame 7038 adds to the compact line-up of Tradition watches for ladies. Exclusive to boutiques, the Tradition Dame 7038 combines a dark, iridescent Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial with a deep-brown movement treatment. And unusually for Breguet, the watch is delivered with a matching clutch bag. Initial thoughts The off-centered, Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial was the first thing that caught my attention when this arrived in my inbox. With enigmatic colours that shimmer and vary between violet and green, Tahitian mother-of-pearl never fails to be captivating. Obtained from black-lipped oysters around Tahiti and French Polynesia, they are much rarer compared to white mother-of-pearls as was featured in the first Tradition Dame 7038, making this more appealing, not just for its colour but also the material. The brown undertones of the Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial are complemented by the brown treatment of the frosted finish on the movement and the rose gold case. In typical Breguet style, the mother-of-pear dial is finished in clous de paris engine-turning, a decorative touch that is tradition and always welcome as it adds visual interest to the ...

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Corum Introduces the Lab 02 SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel Jun 15, 2020

Corum Introduces the Lab 02

While Corum’s high-end watchmaking is typically associated with the tiny Golden Bridge movement, the brand’s latest creation is a surprisingly intriguing calibre with a novel construction. The Lab 02 is a tourbillon with vertical power reserve and double-disc date – entirely constructed as a “flying”, or “floating”, movement. Almost all of the wheels are secured only on one side, leaving them seemingly suspended in midair. Initial thoughts The Lab 02 has a genuinely interesting movement inside. A “flying” construction is not new, but it is usually applied to a key parts, like the barrel or tourbillon, for aesthetic effect or to keep the movement as slim as possible. Here the whole movement is flying, which results in a strikingly airy mechanical landscape. In fact, the Lab 02 is essentially a more complex execution of the concept behind the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Because of its construction, the movement is large, which means the watch is huge – 45 mm wide and 13.4 mm high. But it is a necessity due to the mechanics and probably enhances the visual effect of the movement construction. Harder to swallow is the price of 180,00 Swiss francs that puts the Lab 02 in a price segment where many well-established haute horlogerie brands compete. That’s especially so given the movement finishing appears adequate (neat and clean but mostly done with mechanical means) rather than excellent. Admittedly, most other watches in the price segme...

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Zelos Introduces the Mirage Tourbillon in Pattern-Welded Alloys SJX Watches
May 29, 2020

Zelos Introduces the Mirage Tourbillon in Pattern-Welded Alloys

A Singapore-based “micro brand”, Zelos Watches has found success with affordable sports watches, mostly priced at about US$1,000 or less, but often incorporating unusual materials such as carbon fibre or meteorite. But in a significant departure from its usual fare, Zelos has just unveiled the Mirage, a flying tourbillon powered by a calibre made by a noted Swiss movement maker La Joux-Perret. With the case options including Timascus and mokume-gane, which are pattern-welded titanium and bronze respectively, the Mirage certainly sticks to the brand’s design ethos of exotic materials. Initial thoughts While it’s not surprising that the Mirage is substantially more expensive than Zelos’ past models, it is still good value for a watch featuring both a respectable tourbillon movement and an exotic-metal case. The case is sleek and modern, machined to create sharp, wide facets that give it an aggressive stance and complement the contemporary look of the movement. Of the three case materials on offer, the Timascus versions are the most intriguing. Typically found in high-end custom knives, Timascus is being used in a watch for the first time according to Zelos. Flying tourbillon In terms of complications, the Mirage is a radical departure from the brand’s previous offerings. Powered by a skeletonised flying tourbillon movement from La Joux-Perret, the Mirage enters the realm of technical horology. The movement is hand-wound, with its bridges and base plate coate...

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IWC Portugieser Chronograph (reference 371609) Review WatchAdvice
IWC Portugieser Chronograph reference 371609 May 20, 2020

IWC Portugieser Chronograph (reference 371609) Review

Introduction Clipping shut the deployant buckle of the just-refreshed IWC Portugieser Chronograph; it’s easy to see why this is one of the brand’s most popular watches, in Australia at least. It’s dressy, but still offers a healthy dose of sports functionality. What makes this new reference, announced back in February, even better the movement beating away inside. For the first time, it’s an IWC-manufactured calibre, and while it can’t be seen on the wrist, or make much of a difference to daily wear, it still feels like a significant step up. The Dial and Hands  The face of the Portugieser Chronograph is refreshingly familiar, thanks to that iconic combination of applied Arabic numerals and leaf (or feuille) shaped hands. The chronograph layout puts a minutes register at the top and a running seconds display at six. I’m more familiar with the white-dialled version of the Portugieser so was happy to give the black a try. And boy, is this dial black. The colour is incredibly deep and dynamic; if you catch it on the right angle, it takes on a blue-ish sheen around the edges. I must say that, because of the dark dial and the slender, highly polished hands and hour markers, legibility was a bit of an issue at times. Still, the overall beauty made me forget about that fact almost immediately.  IWC Portugieser Chronograph Reference 371609 The Case and Strap  At 41mm, this watch is sized just right. The steel case sits well on the wrist, flush and, even though it is...

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces May 18, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm

The new quartet of Royal Oak models marks a first for Audemars Piguet – the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm combines a 34 mm case with an automatic calibre supplied by movement specialist Vaucher. An addition to the line that is not meant to replace any existing model, the new 34 mm watch is now the smallest mechanical Royal Oak for ladies, with the smallest, 33 mm model being quartz, and the next-largest automatic having a 37 mm case. Initial thoughts The new watch fills a gap in the diverse Royal Oak line-up – a watch compact enough for ladies but with a mechanical movement. While the new 34 mm model is not explicitly described as a women’s watch, it is in all but name, as Audemars Piguet already has a 37 mm model as the medium-sized men’s Royal Oak. That said, the proportions of the 34 mm case remind me of the Royal Oak ref. 4100 of the 1970s and 1980s, which was then a large-sized men’s watch and 36 mm in diameter, not too much larger than the new model. By that benchmark, the new 34 mm model should not be a ladies’ watch per se, and could appeal to men who prefer a smaller case size. But for the broader market, it is a ladies’ watch, and I can see its appeal. Importantly, it has a mechanical movement – long absent for the ladies’ Royal Oak – and the versions with the diamond-set bezels offer a bit of bling to go along with the iconic design. So it should attract a new female customer who has always wanted a Royal Oak, but was savvy enough to wait fo...

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