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3 Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019 Time+Tide
Tudor s Jan 9, 2020

3 Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019

2019 was an exciting year for Tudor, as the iconic Swiss watchmaker released several models that collectively surprised and even inspired the greater horological community. And while some of the novelties unveiled last year were contentious at the time, I think people’s attitudes have softened towards them and, more importantly, it’s just great to see … ContinuedThe post 3 Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000 Time+Tide
Jan 4, 2020

A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000

How to define microbrand watches is a conversation topic that has worn out many watch journalists’ tongues. With proposed criteria ranging from price to retail model and everything in between, there isn’t much consistency in how this new phenomenon is received or perceived. Perhaps one thing that can unite the explosion of newcomers that the … ContinuedThe post A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive 20th Jan 2, 2020

Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive 20th Anniversary

At Baselworld last year, Seiko unveiled its take on the ultimate time-only watch, the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Spring Drive 20th Anniversary SBGZ001. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 is powered by essentially the same movement as found in the Credor Eichi II, but dressed up with an engraved platinum case and dial, while also priced at quite a bit more than the Eichi II, with a retail of US$76,000. Also launched at the same time was the Grand Seiko SBGZ003, which is almost the same watch – having the same movement but minus the engraving on the case and dial, resulting in a US$57,000 price tag. With their cushion-shaped cases and dauphine hands – the hallmarks of the newish Elegance Collection – both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are slightly more retro in style than the stark and contemporary Eichi II. But more importantly, they are powered by the 9R02, which is an upgraded version of the movement in the Eichi II and the most gorgeous movement ever found in a modern Grand Seiko. In short, both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are watches with incredibly well finished movements – amongst the best in modern watchmaking anywhere – but with a couple of caveats, discussed below. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 – watch courtesy of Mark Cho, founder of menswear store The Armoury The 9R02 Spring Drive movement Masterpieces from the studio All of Seiko’s top of the line watches – both Grand Seiko and Credor – come from the Micro Artist Studio, a workshop set up in 2000 to produce the fi...

EVENT: Here’s why the first ever Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney boutique is opening tomorrow Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney boutique Dec 11, 2019

EVENT: Here’s why the first ever Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney boutique is opening tomorrow

For the first time ever, Jaeger-LeCoultre is opening a stand-alone boutique in Australia, which aims to offer greater access for their Australian enthusiasts than ever before. The brand is also quietly confident that the Australian market has reached a level of maturity that a complex and nuanced brand such as Jaeger-LeCoultre can capitalise on the … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Here’s why the first ever Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney boutique is opening tomorrow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467 Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Dec 1, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467

When you’re buying a new car, there’s usually some key criteria that dictate whether or not said automobile will make the cut. You know the sort of things we’re talking about – fuel economy, safety rating, 0-100km/h times … that sort of stuff. Oh, and of course, price. But is this same buying style employed … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#JayDay: Jay-Z just used a bunch of solid gold Rolex Daytonas as VIP invitations Time+Tide
Rolex Daytonas as VIP invitations Nov 24, 2019

#JayDay: Jay-Z just used a bunch of solid gold Rolex Daytonas as VIP invitations

We’ve all heard of a wrist flex, but what about an invitation flex … is that a thing? Well, if it wasn’t before, it is now, because hip hop heavyweight, music producer and entrepreneur Jay-Z has gone and sent out Rolex’s eponymous Daytona as VIP invitation gifts to his inaugural Shawn Carter Foundation Gala. In … ContinuedThe post #JayDay: Jay-Z just used a bunch of solid gold Rolex Daytonas as VIP invitations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Editor’s note Nov 10, 2019

Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

Editor’s note: If you’re in the market for a steel sports watch with a chronograph complication, you really are spoilt for choice. Rolex’s Daytona, Omega’s Speedmaster, Tudor’s Black Bay Chronograph … the list goes on. However, if you’re looking for a timepiece that meets all of the aforementioned criteria, while still possessing a real and genuine … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Trick or treat with the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Editor’s Oct 19, 2019

Trick or treat with the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton

Editor’s note: One of my main criteria for a banger watch these days is wearability. Sure, looks are important, but fit reigns supreme. Luckily, the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton delivers on both fronts …  The story in a second:  Contemporary design and classic size make this a winning combination. It’s no secret that the Defy … ContinuedThe post Trick or treat with the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The IWC Mark XVIII Gifted to Employees on the 150th Anniversary SJX Watches
IWC Mark XVIII Gifted Oct 17, 2019

The IWC Mark XVIII Gifted to Employees on the 150th Anniversary

When IWC celebrated its 150th anniversary last year, it unveiled a large line-up of commemorative watches, including the clever and well-priced Tribute to Pallweber digital jump hour (and also opened an expansive new factory). But there was one more anniversary that has been pretty much a company secret until now: the Mark XVIII gifted to staff members at IWC headquarters in Schaffhausen. Over lunch yesterday, I spotted the Mark XVIII on the wrist of IWC museum curator David Seyffer. Given Dr Seyffer’s position – and access to some of the rarest and most desirable IWC watches – I was surprised that he was wearing the entry-level Pilot’s Watch. But when Dr Seyffer handed the watch over, he explained, with an evident amount of pride, this was no ordinary Mark XVIII. On the front, the watch has a 40mm steel case and metallic, dark blue dial that’s similar to a standard watch in the IWC Pilot’s Watch line-up. But on the back, it features the IWC 150th anniversary emblem, and just below that, the name of the employee who received the watch. According to Dr Seyffer, it was chief executive Chris Grainger-Herr’s idea to gift each employee at IWC headquarters a watch as a token of appreciation for their contribution to IWC’s 150 years of success. Male employees were given a Mark XVIII on a black Santoni leather strap, while female staff members were given a Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 on a steel bracelet. The total number produced is unknown, but IWC has about 700...

Why this Longines is the best watch I’ve ever owned Time+Tide
Longines Sep 27, 2019

Why this Longines is the best watch I’ve ever owned

Back at the beginning of 2013, as a result of kissing goodbye to a couple of watches (mistakes) from my collection, I found myself in the rather fortunate position of needing a new daily timepiece. The buying criteria was fairly simple and straightforward: the new watch needed to be a diver, automatic, Swiss made and … ContinuedThe post Why this Longines is the best watch I’ve ever owned appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Sep 2, 2019

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial

Seiko has cultivated its Presage collection as one that offers watches featuring dials decorated with artisanal techniques like Shippo enamel or Arita porcelain, but at extremely affordable prices. Now Seiko has just rolled out the first-ever Presage watches powered by the brand’s best-known innovation – the Spring Drive, an electronically regulated mechanical movement previously only found in Credor, Grand Seiko and Prospex watches. And the Spring Drive has been combined with a decidedly more traditional face, with both new models featuring vitreous enamel dials. Available in either white or black, the enamel dials are once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who are adept at producing enamel dials of high-quality and in large quantities, but relatively low prices. The clean and slightly retro dial design, however, is the work of the design studio founded by Japanese industrial designer Riki Watanabe. After his death in 2013, the design of his work was entrusted to his colleague, who stuck closely to Watanabe’s ideals of functionality and beauty in the conception of the watch. The dial is characterised by a striking clarity thanks to the high contrast between the hands, hour markers and dial, as well as Arabic numerals in Didoni typeface, a favourite of Watanabe. Notably, the date is properly integrated into the dial design with a date wheel that matches the colour of the dial, while the combination of the contrasting...

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom Chronograph SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom Chronograph Aug 13, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom Chronograph

In 2014, Bell & Ross’ signature BR 01 design spawned a futuristic, ultra-graphic spin-off that would take the brand miles beyond the cockpit – the BR-X1. While the watch inherited the distinctive circle-within-a-square case modelled on aircraft instruments, from there the execution swerves radically away from the retro-military look of the original, with the BR-X1 taking on a greater complexity in both construction and style. Iterated into numerous variants in the five years since its launch – including a Renault Formula 1 edition and White Hawk – the BR-X1 is characterised by open-worked dial revealing a skeletonised chronograph module and a complex case made up of a combination of materials – here titanium and ceramic – with rocker-style pushers pivoted on one end. This year, Bell & Ross (B&R;) has unveiled one of the most striking iterations of the BR-X1 to date, the all-black Phantom. The BR-X1 Phantom Going dark Watches with black cases and dials are relatively common today, ironically thanks in part to one brand that resisted the genre so vehemently that it spawned an outlaw cult of aftermarket all-black watches. Even with the flood of black watches on the market, few have gone above and beyond in making everything on the watch black. The first truly all-black watch was the smash hit Hublot Big Bang of 2006, which was followed by hordes more. But the greatest irony of such watches is that the illegible colour palette results in an eminent...

Hands-On: Gorilla Fastback “RAW Celebratory Edition” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jul 30, 2019

Hands-On: Gorilla Fastback “RAW Celebratory Edition”

Despite being one of many recent startups specialising in stylish, affordable watches, Gorilla has managed to set itself apart from a crowded field by creating watches that are well designed and smartly detailed. That’s because the Gorilla was founded in 2016 by two veterans watch design: Lukas Gopp, an alumni of IWC and Audemars Piguet, and the better known of the pair, Octavio Garcia. Mr Garcia spent almost 15 years at Audemars Piguet, five of them as chief designer; one of his most famous and successful creations was the Royal Oak Offshore “Alinghi” in forged carbon, one of the hottest watches of the mid-2000s. Gorilla now only offers essentially a single model – the Fastback – in several variations, with the design and colours inspired by 1950s American muscle cars. And it is obvious that several of its watches are reminiscent of certain Audemars Piguet timepieces. But with the Gorilla watch case having a distinctive profile of its own, coupled with the fact that most of its watches cost less than US$800, Gorilla watches have an easy appeal. A gilded 15 This particular Gorilla is a limited edition made for the 15th anniversary of Red Army Watches, a Singapore-based retailer that specialises in affordable watches; amongst the other brands it carries are SevenFriday and Grand Seiko. Formally known as the RAW x Gorilla Fastback Celebratory Edition, the watch is not drastically different from the standard model that serves as the base, the Fastback Gal...

Business News: Richemont and Swatch Results; Massive Inventories at Swatch SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin saw overall sales dip Jul 18, 2019

Business News: Richemont and Swatch Results; Massive Inventories at Swatch

Swiss watchmaking groups Richemont and Swatch Group just announced their first quarter and six-month results for 2019 respectively, with each going in opposite directions. Owner of brands like Cartier, IWC and Panerai, Richemont saw growth across most segments and regions. Overall sales were up 12% at constant exchange rates, with every region growing in the low teens save for the Middle East and Africa. Sales in Asia grew 10%, led by China, where demand is up due to lower taxes locally on luxury goods and more stringent checks on travellers importing items bought overseas. Most notable was the performance of its online channels, namely luxury fashion mall Yoox Net-a-Porter (YNAP), pre-owned watch merchant Watchfinder, and to a lesser extent. That growth is from a low base of comparison: last year’s first quarter for each platform was only two and one month respectively. That being said, online sales are still substantial, rising to 50% to €648m, almost equal to the €698m of sales in the Americas as a whole. The group’s watchmaking brands, which include A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, saw overall sales dip 2%. This was attributed to a reduction in the number of sales channels as well as reduced orders of new product by retailers. Up in Biel, where the Swatch Group has its headquarters, half-year sales were down 3.7% at constant exchange rates, to 4.07 billion Swiss francs. Net profit followed suit, shrinking 11.3% to 415m francs. For the full year, howe...

The 10 best skeleton dials from 2018 Time+Tide
Rolex 4113 Jul 9, 2019

The 10 best skeleton dials from 2018

Skeleton dials are interesting, not because they offer a garish look at something exposed but because they showcase the sheer level of complexity involved in modern watchmaking. Without searching for photos of the movement of your watch online, or doing a John Goldberger (and opening your million dollar Rolex 4113 with a cheese knife), the … ContinuedThe post The 10 best skeleton dials from 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Akrivia AK-02 Tourbillon Hour Minute SJX Watches
Casio nally titanium it Jul 9, 2019

Up Close: Akrivia AK-02 Tourbillon Hour Minute

Last year’s Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain made its young creator, Rexhep Rexhepi, a star, but the brand’s foundational watch is actually the “AK” series. Chunky and slightly sporty, the AK watches are a world away from the classical styling of the Chronomètre Contemporain, but boast the same level of movement finishing, along with a bonus of elaborately hand-hammered dials. The second model in the AK series was the AK-02 Tourbillon Heure Minute, or “Hour Minute” – a time-only watch with a tourbillon regulator. The AK-02 is probably the finest finished tourbillon wristwatch in its price segment, and in the price segments above it as well. The AK case It’s a fairly large watch, with the case measuring 43.0mm with and 12.9mm high. But the lugs are short so it feels fairly compact on the wrist. And because the AK-02 is typically found in a steel case, as is pictured here, or occasionally titanium, it is usually lightweight. Gold cases are available for a modest premium, though rarely requested. The case feels like it’s trying too hard, and consequently feels overly built, with thick lugs and a high case band. It’s too chunky for my taste, and doesn’t quite suit the refined movement inside. That being said, the AK-style case has it fans for several reason. The design is distinctive, more distinctive than the old school Chronomètre Contemporain case. And it is also finished to a high degree, with contrasting polished and brushed surfaces; the...

HANDS-ON: Full metal jacket – the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V Casio’s G-Shock Jun 14, 2019

HANDS-ON: Full metal jacket – the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V

Casio’s G-Shock has a reputation - and a well-deserved one, I might add - for being one of the toughest watches ever made. Way back in 1983, Kikuo Ibe, the man behind the watch, decreed that the watch needed to meet some pretty tough criteria: a 10-year battery life, water resistance of 10 bar, and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Full metal jacket – the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing Time+Tide
Rolex drought shows no sign Jun 11, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing

In yet another example of water being wet, desirable Rolex models are not easy to get. And while the issues with Rolex stock should not be news to anyone reading this, this analysis from WatchPro’s managing editor Rob Corder is a somewhat more evidence-based analysis than the usual feverish hyperbole. Corder uses the tried and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“I definitely think the Porsche Design by IWC Ocean 2000 is undervalued, but don’t expect that to last forever!” 6 reasons it might be a sleeper classic Time+Tide
Porsche Design Mar 1, 2019

“I definitely think the Porsche Design by IWC Ocean 2000 is undervalued, but don’t expect that to last forever!” 6 reasons it might be a sleeper classic

When the idea was first hatched that we would work with IWC on auctioning a rare-in-this-condition Porsche Design by IWC Ocean 2000 ref 3504 for charity, a name quickly emerged as someone to consult with on the process. Carson Chan is not only the Head of Mission of Greater China for the Fondation de la Haute … ContinuedThe post “I definitely think the Porsche Design by IWC Ocean 2000 is undervalued, but don’t expect that to last forever!” 6 reasons it might be a sleeper classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Smaller, thinner – the Seiko Astron GPS Solar 5X Time+Tide
Seiko Astron GPS Solar 5X Oct 11, 2018

VIDEO: Smaller, thinner – the Seiko Astron GPS Solar 5X

Most of the watches we talk about here at Time+Tide are mechanical - if there’s a battery involved, the watch has to be pretty special to get our attention. Well, Seiko’s Astron meets (and exceeds) the ‘pretty special’ criteria. The original Astron watch was released in 2012 (well, if you want to get technical, the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Smaller, thinner – the Seiko Astron GPS Solar 5X appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: From $6k to $60k, 6 reasons to love a classic chronograph Time+Tide
Oct 9, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: From $6k to $60k, 6 reasons to love a classic chronograph

Editor’s note: When I began the hunt for my first “good” watch I came up with a list of certain criteria: a black dial, 40 – 44 mm case size, and good looks. However, the main one was that it needed to be a chronograph. It was the added allure of a more complex inside paired … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: From $6k to $60k, 6 reasons to love a classic chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.