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Results for Display vs Solid Caseback

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Display vs Solid Caseback

Sapphire window vs engraved metal. Haute-horlogerie standard since 1985 vs the Submariner / Daytona / Speedmaster heritage.
Rolex Introduces the New Oyster Perpetual (in Bright Colours Too) SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Sep 1, 2020

Rolex Introduces the New Oyster Perpetual (in Bright Colours Too)

A direct descendant of the first waterproof wristwatch that debuted in 1926, the Oyster Perpetual has long been the most straightforward offering from Rolex, a fuss-free, time-only watch that still retains the brand’s quintessential technology and design. Rolex has revamped the Oyster Perpetual – now available in in 41 mm, 36 mm, 34 mm, 31 mm, and 28 mm – giving it new dials, including colourful lacquer in candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red, and green, as well as the latest generation movements for the largest sizes. But not that all colours are available in every size; candy pink for instance is available only for the 36 mm and 31 mm models. The Oyster Perpetual 36 in the new colours Initial thoughts It is heartening to see the return of fun, brightly-coloured dials on affordable models, especially in solid colours instead of being combined with quirky patterns such as the concentric decoration found on earlier generations. The bright-colour dials on the largest 41 mm model in particular make for a lively look that is very different from the usual conservative style of the Oyster. More sedate dial colours – namely metallic silver, blue, and black – are also available, but it’s the silver the stands out. In fact, the silver dial is as interesting as its colourful counterparts. The use of gilded hands and indices on silver dial in a steel watch is unusual. Add to that the pale champagne wash over the silver finish, the result is a warm look that is...

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TAG Heuer Introduces the Fragment Design Calibre Heuer 02 Chronograph SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Jun 18, 2020

TAG Heuer Introduces the Fragment Design Calibre Heuer 02 Chronograph

TAG Heuer’s first collaboration with streetwear guru Hiroshi Fujiwara of Fragment Design was the Fragment Design Carrera Heuer 02 of 2018. The vintage-inspired watch went down well and sold out quickly. Now the second collaboration has just been unveiled. Once again limited to 500 watches and powered by the same Heuer 02 movement, the TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic Chronograph is modelled on the Autavia models of the 1960s and 1970s, but again given a minimalist makeover by Mr Fujiwara, who happens to be a vintage watch aficionado himself. Initial thoughts As a watch collector, Mr Fujiwara no doubt understood the cushion-shaped Autavia case, sometimes known as the “C-case”, is an instantly recognisable Heuer that has presence, making it a good candidate for a collaboration. However, unlike earlier Fragment Design watch that looked almost like a real vintage watch, the latest edition looks far more contemporary, thanks to the high-contrast colours. The use of red is restrained, especially with the tiny hour markers, just enough to give the watch the right amount of auto-racing flair. While I am generally not a fan of a date window at six o’clock, it is nicely done here. The date disc is black to match with the dial, allowing the date display to blend into the dial. And the Fragment Design double lightning bolt logo at 12 o’clock serves as a visual counterweight to the date. The case has been upsized to 44 mm from the 42 mm of the o...

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Reader Donates Baltic x Worn & Wound Watch for Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity Auction Revolution
Baltic x Worn & Wound Jun 1, 2020

Reader Donates Baltic x Worn & Wound Watch for Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity Auction

When Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity Auction was first announced, an incredible Aussie gent named Vaughn, who goes by the Instagram handle @hands.faces.cases reached out to say, he wanted to donate this Baltic x Worn & Wound sold out Sector dial beauty. So we caught up with Vaughn to find out why he felt thus compelled to reach out and donate towards this cause.

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In-Depth: The Bespoke (and Custom) Experience at Andersen Genève SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin May 2, 2020

In-Depth: The Bespoke (and Custom) Experience at Andersen Genève

When applied to watches, “bespoke” brings to mind the ultra-complicated timepieces made for famous historical figures like James W. Packard and Henry Graves Jr., who each commissioned a succession of one-off watches that pushed the technical boundaries of watchmaking in the early decades of the 20th century. One of those watches, the landmark Patek Philippe “Supercomplication” made for Graves, long held the title of most-expensive-watch ever sold. In the modern day, watchmakers continue to create unique watches. Patek Philippe does it quietly for its best clients, while Vacheron Constantin is more public with its Atelier Cabinotiers department that specialises in customised timepieces. Similarly, artisanal independent watchmakers like Voutilainen often accept commissions. But as a collector, how easy is it to dip your toes into the waters of bespoke or custom watchmaking? This is my maiden experience with such watches, which started at Andersen Geneve some six years ago. Svend at work Industrial vs. artisanal I first wanted to get involved in the creation of a custom watch in 2014. I already knew then it could not merely be changing colours on the dial or hands, neither could it be an engraved monogram. What I wanted was a truly unique world-time watch with a Louis Cottier-type mechanism. At the same time, I had a certain budget in mind, so I approached independent watchmakers that made watches I liked, but with steel cases. Somewhat naively, I thought adding a ti...

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Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar Skeleton SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Apr 24, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar Skeleton

Since its 2016 relaunch after a major revamp, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection has filled out nicely with a diverse range of complications, ranging from world time to tourbillon – and even a one-off prototype that was sold for charity. At Watches & Wonders 2020, Vacheron Constantin debuts the first skeleton model in the line-up, the Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar Skeleton. It has the same gorgeously elegant lines as the standard Overseas perpetual calendar, but now enhanced by the intricately open-worked movement. Rendered only in pink gold for now – other variants will surely emerge if the rest of the collection is anything to go by – the case measures 41.5 mm across and just 8.1 mm high, leaving it surprisingly slimmer than both the Patrimony Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar that’s powered by the same movement. In typical Overseas style, both the case and bracelet are finely executed, with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. Even the inner faces of the notches on the bezel are brushed, while the deeply-set inner angles on the bracelet are polished. Framed by a minute ring, the dial is mostly clear sapphire with applied hour markers in pink gold, as well as day, date and month counter rings. The moon phase disc at six o’clock is covered by a frosted portion of the crystal to delineate the age of the moon, with a gold Maltese cross applied on the frosted display. The movement is the cal. 1120QPSQ/1, the skeletonised version of the ultra-t...

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Unboxing the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ in 18k Yellow Gold SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5172G chronograph or Mar 16, 2020

Unboxing the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ in 18k Yellow Gold

Preposterous, outrageous, and very, very cool, the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ G-D5000-9JR was announced last year. The watch cost US$70,000 – about the same as a Patek Philippe ref. 5172G chronograph or a Voutilainen Vingt-8 in steel – which was a shocker. But with only 35 made, the Dream Project sold out faster than you can say DW-5000. Though the watches were allocated to clients via ballot in May 2019, the first watch was only delivered in January 2020, with the rest of the watches trickling out at a gradual pace until late 2021 when the final watch will be completed. The very first watches were delivered to retailers in Japan, but one recently arrived in Singapore, the only one sold in the city state. Most countries only got one, with very large markets like the United States getting two, and the rest going to Japan. Gold and iron Made entirely of 18k yellow gold – it weighs 297 g or about 10 oz – the Dream Project was first exhibited at Baselworld 2015 as a concept watch. According to watch magazine Chronos Japan, the idea for a gold G-Shock came from Yasuyuki Iima, the president of Eye Eye Isuzu, a noted watch retailer. His suggestion led to G-Shock inventor Kikuo Ibe embarking on a “dream project” – the solid-gold G-Shock. The watch took five years to make it to market primarily because of the challenge in making it as shockproof as a standard G-Shock – basically the watch’s functionality has to survive being thrown out a third-storey ...

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Young Japanese Watchmaker Norifumi Seki Makes His Debut SJX Watches
Mar 4, 2020

Young Japanese Watchmaker Norifumi Seki Makes His Debut

Just 23 years old – he was born in 1997 – Norifumi Seki graduated from watchmaking school last year, and recently completed his first timepiece, the Sphere Moon Phase Pocket Watch. Though inspired by the works of past watchmakers, Mr Seki’s creation is surprisingly novel in both aesthetics and construction, especially since it is essentially a school project. Based in Tokyo, Mr Seki has trod a short path to create this impressive watch. After graduating from junior high school, which is for children aged 12 to 15 in Japan, his interest in mechanics and craftsmanship led him to fabricate simple objects, including a beautifully-made folding knife. Inspiration In 2016, Mr Seki met Masahiro Kikuno – arguably Japan’s most interesting contemporary watchmaker – who inspired him to manufacture a watch by hand. And so at age 18, Mr Seki entered Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry, a school in Tokyo’s Shibuya district that also teaches watchmaking and shoemaking. During his final year in school, Mr Seki started on his own watch. It’s a large pocket watch with a regulator-style time display, oversized date and month indicators, along with an extra-large spherical moon phase. Spherical moon and drum calendar Made entirely of titanium, the moon phase is 20 mm in diameter and set via a recessed pusher in the case band. A third of the sphere is heat-blued titanium, while the other is coated in gold. Show in two large windows, each containing two drums for the digits, the cale...

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Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Mouse King SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Jan 24, 2020

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Mouse King

Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin had a hit on his hands when he unveiled the Joker at Baselworld 2017. Inspired by the “moving eye” clocks invented by German clockmaker J. Oswald in 1926, the Joker has since been iterated into several new versions, including the one-off Joker Selfie that sold for 75,000 Swiss francs at last year’s Only Watch charity auction. To mark the upcoming Chinese Year of the Rat, Konstantin has created a special variant of the Joker – the Mouse King – featuring the same “rolling eye” time display, but powered by a new base movement. According to Konstantin, the genesis of the watch came during the recent Christmas season, when he read the German fairytale The Nutcracker and the Mouse King, or Nussknacker und Mausekönig in its original language, to his daughter. A story about a nutcracker doll that comes to life and then defeats the evil Mouse King, the fairytale is the basis for Tchaikovsky’s ballet The Nutcracker. But most relevant to Konstantin is the fact that one of its main characters, Drosselmeyer, is a clockmaker. And in another coincidence, the Chinese Year of the Rat begins on January 25, 2020, which is also his daughter’s birthday. And so the Mouse King watch was created, as a limited edition of seven watches – because the evil Mouse King has seven heads, each wearing a golden crown. It indicates the hours and minutes regulator-style with a”moving eye” display, along with the moon phase at six o’clock ...

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De Bethune Introduces the Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Nov 20, 2019

De Bethune Introduces the Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia

Shaped like an extraterrestrial seashell, the De Bethune Dream Watch 5 (DW5) is the brand’s most striking timepiece. It’s simple in function – showing just the time and moon phase – but more of a time-telling object than a mere watch. The new Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia is the opposite of the sleek, smooth finish of the original Dream Watch. The rose gold case is fully engraved with a motif from Les Cités obscures, or The Obscure Cities, a series of graphic novels by Belgian duo François Schuiten and Benoît Peeters. Specifically, the engraving depicts Armilia, an underground city of the novels that’s shaped like an armillary sphere. François Schuiten’s original drawing of Armilia Responsible for the engraving is Michele Rothen Rebetez, a freelance engraver based in Le Locle who has worked with De Bethune for several years, most recently on the Maestri Art I and II. Instead of the deeper, relief engraving that Ms Rothen Rebetez typically uses for watches, the DW5 Armilia is finished with banknote style engraving, made up of numerous fine, shallow lines to create depth and shadow. The DW5 is produced in two sizes, and the DW5 Armilia is in the larger, 58mm size. Mechanically, it is identical to the standard DW5, with the time indicated in a narrow window, along with the spherical moon phase display, both framed in blued titanium. The cal is 18k rose gold, while the crown is topped with a 1-carat blue sapphire.   Key facts and price Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia R...

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F.P. Journe Introduces the Astronomic Souveraine Grand Complication SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Nov 14, 2019

F.P. Journe Introduces the Astronomic Souveraine Grand Complication

Just days after the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue made for Only Watch 2019 sold for a record 1.8m Swiss francs, the watchmaker has unveiled the regular production version of the same – the Astronomic Souveraine. While the last unique F.P. Journe produced for Only Watch eventually made into production in a significantly different form, the Astronomic Souveraine is largely the same. Save for the steel case, dial colours, and movement decoration, the Astronomic Souveraine is identical to the unique Only Watch creation. Inspired by a pocket watch Francois-Paul Journe produced in 1987 – itself inspired by the earlier works of Breguet and George Daniels – the Astronomic Souveraine has 18 complications, shown on two faces on each side of the case. These include showing both mean solar time and sidereal time, as well as an annual calendar, equation of time, tourbillon with remontoir d’egalite constant force mechanism, and a minute repeater. Despite its complexity, the indications are remarkably well-presented, and furthermore, can all be adjusted via a single crown. Though the case is 44mm wide – the largest wristwatch ever by F.P. Journe – it remains notably compact at just 13.8mm high, helped in part by his ultra-thin minute repeater mechanism with flat hammers and gongs. As with most F.P. Journe watches, the dial on the front is solid gold, as are the bridges and plate of the movement. The 758-part cal. 1619 is equipped with double barrels, which are partly visible ...

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Introducing the Apple Watch Hermès Series 5 SJX Watches
Hermes leather strap Sep 11, 2019

Introducing the Apple Watch Hermès Series 5

Apple’s introduction of its latest watch includes the Apple Watch Hermès Series 5, essentially the smartwatch plus an Hermes leather strap and watch faces exclusive to the Hermes edition. Amongst other incremental improvements, the new Apple Watch has an “always-on” face that dims when you turn away, instead of going dark as on the previous generation of the watch – and it’s achieved without comprising the 18-hour battery life. And the standard Series 5 is also available in a variety of case materials, including the usual steel or aluminium, as well as ceramic for the more upscale versions. For the first time, brushed titanium is also a case option. The Single Tour strap with the Della Cavalleria motif on the lower half of the strap The luxury of Apple Watch Hermès Series 5, on the other hand, is dictated only in two case styles: Space Black and polished steel, each in either 40mm or 44mm sizes. The 40mm cases are available either with a standard length, “Single Tour” strap, or an extra-long “Double Tour” strap. Both styles of straps are a combination of colours – a solid shade and a printed motif taken from the Hermes “Della Cavalleria” scarf.   Double Tour The Space Black is actually a steel with a black coating, and it’s matched with a sleek, all-black dial and matte black strap for a sleek look that is very much unlike the usual smartwatch. Price and availability The Apple Watch Hermès Series 5 with Single Tour strap is priced at ...

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