Hodinkee
Introducing: Farer Refreshes Its Aqua Compressor Line With Three New Designs
A new movement and upgraded lume complement new dial designs.
Results for DLC and PVD Coating
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Inside Hour Precision, the Machine Shop Determined to Revitalize American Watchmaking
Usually when watchmakers brag about space cred, they bring up models that have gone to space or that are made of rocks from space or that take inspiration from the solar system. Zach Smith has them all beat: the Ohio-based horological craftsman makes aerospace engineering components (among other things) at his workshop, Hour Precision. Smith had hoped from the start that Hour Precision would make watches, and found along the way the machines and expertise you need to machine intricate watch movement pieces translate well to making parts for semiconductors, medical equipment, and, of course, aerospace components. That move into non-horological industries came relatively recently for Smith, however. Before the micro-machining and before he founded Hour Precision, Smith was a high-school-aged watch enthusiast who landed a job in a jewelry school. “I was fixing heart rate monitor watches. There was a brand called Polar before the Apple Watch that made fitness watches, and I started off doing that and then moved,” said Smith. “My boss at the time was selling pre-owned Rolex. He would buy product from walk-ins and from other suppliers and refurbish the Rolex watches, polish them, etc., and then sell them. After a while where I was doing well with the Polar watches, he asked me if I wanted to start doing that.” Zach Smith, front left, upon graduation from watchmaking school. Image courtesy Zach Smith @zachsmiami From there, Smith moved to another store that processed betw...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Three New Aqua Compressors Show Farer’s Subtle Evolution
Farer updates its Aqua Compressor line with three models featuring the La Joux-Perret G101 movement, upgraded lume, and refined dials.
Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”
If you’ve been paying attention to Tudor over the last few years, you know that a key component of their release strategy has been to drop unexpected dial colors into catalog staples at seemingly random intervals throughout the year. We’ve seen this play out with the Black Bay Chronograph multiple times, with pink and blue editions released unexpectedly and quickly allocated to collectors. Today, Tudor is trying something similar with the Black Bay 54, their most compact version of the Black Bay dive watch. The new Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is more than just a dial variant, as it represents the first expansion of the Black Bay 54 line since it was introduced two years ago with a straightforward black dial. The first follow up after a hit watch is always an interesting bit of trivia for those of us who consider ourselves watch nerds. This release echos the blue dialed version of the Black Bay 58, which was perhaps even more of a sensation than the original when it saw a surprise release in the early days of the pandemic. Until this ywar’s Watches & Wonders, when a red 58 was launched, those two references somewhat surprisingly made up the entire Black Bay 58 collection. Time will tell if Tudor is quicker to produce new variants of the 54, but this version exists as a nice counterpoint to the debut. The “Lagoon Blue” dial has a light, almost turquoise-like tone, along with the familiar Snowflake handset and lume filled hour markers. The dial has what Tudor des...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Funky Groove of the New MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 Purple
Max Büsser’s childhood dream was to become a car designer. Although he ultimately studied engineering and founded MB&F;, one of the most successful indie watch brands, his passion for cars has permeated his design language, resulting in driver’s watches like the 1970s-inspired HM5, featuring a lateral speedometer-style display. The HM8 Mark 2, released in 2023, is a true […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Tudor Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue Edition
Since the introduction of the Black Bay collection in 2012, Tudor has never ceased to expand this range of dive watches, moving up and down in size to now offer a whole range of options. If we look exclusively at the proper dive models, there’s the classic Black Bay 41mm, the smaller Black Bay 58 […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Brellum Pandial Marina Tricompax Chronometer LE
We’re back with the latest release from Brellum. The new Pandial Marina Tricompax Chronometer LE is a nautically inspired chronograph available in two case materials. Brellum may be a small brand, but buyers can expect a finely finished watch with a flourish of details. Plus, the customer service experience is unique and often includes founder […] Visit Introducing: The Brellum Pandial Marina Tricompax Chronometer LE to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Watch Styling For Enthusiasts
Today on Fratello Talks, Nacho, Thomas, and Lex join forces to discuss the topic of watch styling for enthusiasts, sharing some of their thoughts, opinions, and methods. Though some people like to think of watches as functional objects, they are closer to fashion accessories in today’s world. As much as that might sound like blasphemy […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watch Styling For Enthusiasts to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
A Report from Blade Show, the World’s Largest Knife Show
Editor’s Note: Over the weekend, Devin Pennypacker and Garrett Jones found themselves in Atlanta for this year’s edition of Blade Show, the self-proclaimed largest knife show in the world. This was Garrett’s third time in attendance and Devin’s first, and between the two of them they were able to see a lot of knives, connect with a bunch of brands, and find relationships between the EDC and watch communities that we always suspected were there. Here are some of their impressions of the event, along with a bunch of photos, and tips for attending if you decide to hit up a Blade Show event in the future (in addition to the Atlanta show, there are Blade Show events held in Fort Worth, Salt Lake City, and Clinton, SC). Watch out for a post later this week highlighting some of the watch spotting at this year’s Blade Show. DEVIN PENNYPACKER: This was my first time attending Blade Show, a knife and EDC gear show I had been aware of and wanted to participate in for quite some time. The sheer amount of brands, tables, and knives on display at this event far exceeded my expectations, and even after three days, I am positive I missed half of what was on display. For those who have attended a Windup Watch Fair or similar shows, the enthusiasm will feel familiar, filling the air with energy and excitement. Three days of winding your way through various tables with every edge and facet catching the light to draw you in like a fly to a zapper. It is intoxicating and disorienti...
Worn & Wound
Breitling Refreshes the Superocean Heritage Collection
For the first time since 2017, Breitling is refreshing their Superocean Heritage collection. This line has always been something of an under the radar gem. Breitling of course is known for their pilot and aviation themed watches, which run a wide gamut between classical (the Navitimer) and tech-forward contemporary (all of the ana-digi releases through the years). Divers (or “sea watches” as they’re referred to in the latest press materials) seem a little outside the brand’s wheelhouse at first blush, but of course as an historic maker of tool watches, it makes sense to dip into this ultra competitive genre. The Superocean Heritage has always felt like one of the more tasteful vintage inspired sports watch lines, and while they aren’t discussed as frequently as something like the Black Bay family of watches, the collection has always had its fans and the watches themselves are undeniably refined and capture exactly the vibe they intend to. This is a full refresh that seems to be focused squarely on variety and appealing to a broad segment of the “sea watch” market. The new Superocean Heritage models come in a total of four sizes: 44mm, 42mm, 40mm, and 36mm. In addition, there’s a Superocean Heritage Chronograph that comes in at 42mm. The 40mm+ three-handers all use the still new B31 caliber, Breitling’s first exclusive three-hand manufacture caliber. Dials across the collection can be had in black, blue, and green. All feature color matched ceramic be...
Fratello
Time Is Our Thing – Chrono24
Chrono24 is the world’s largest marketplace for watches, and today marks the launch of its new brand identity and global brand campaign, “Time Is Our Thing.” Chrono24 Since its inception in 2003, Chrono24 has established itself as the international marketplace for luxury watches, offering a staggering selection of approximately 560,000 timepieces. With around 3,000 dealers […] Visit Time Is Our Thing – Chrono24 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: A New Generation Of The Breitling Superocean Heritage
Smaller case sizes and a subtly refined design? Count me in.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Seiko Prospex Diver PADI Specials SPB501 & SRPL51
Since 1966, the Professional Association of Diving Instructors has evolved into one of the two world-leading and very trusted scuba diving organisations (the other being Scuba Schools International, or SSI). With thousands of certified diving centres spread around the world, PADI is a go-to name for everyone who wants to learn how to dive safely. […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Revamped Breitling Superocean Heritage Collection
If we polled a large group of die-hard watch fans and asked them to associate a word with Breitling, the answer would be something like “pilot” or “chronograph.” However, if we were to run the same experiment among the general populace, a surprisingly different answer might emerge. It turns out that diving and, in particular, […] Visit Introducing: The Revamped Breitling Superocean Heritage Collection to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Superocean Heritage Review
The Breitling Superocean Heritage has been around since 2007 and stands as one of the brand’s most popular offerings due to its classical, vintage-inspired design and broad range of size options. The collection was updated in 2017, with the Superocean Heritage II, and in 2025 we have gotten the third major update to the collection that now includes improvements throughout as well as the use of the B31 movement. And perhaps most appealing is the long-awaited introduction of a 40mm case size. While Breitling refers to the Superocean Heritage as a “Sea Watch,” these are all as robust and resilient as any dive watch. There are a total of six watches in the new Breitling Superocean Heritage collection, all of which have 200 meters of water resistance: the 42mm chronograph outfitted with the manufacture Caliber 01; three time-and-date models in 40mm, 42mm, and 44mm case sizes outfitted with the B31 movement; and a 36mm time-and-date model outfitted with the Caliber 10 automatic movement. The sixth is a special limited edition done with surfer and longtime brand ambassador Kelly Slater, who co-designed a 40mm model. Before getting into these models, let’s discuss what’s new overall for this update of the Superocean Heritage. The Updates And Changes First off, you’ll notice the sharper hour markers and especially that new 12 o’clock marker, which has a circle with a sharp index cutting through it - a throwback to the original Superocean. I think this will likely b...
Time+Tide
The Breitling SuperOcean Heritage lineup gets its first refresh since 2017
Breitling has given its SuperOcean Heritage range an overhaul with thinner cases and updated calibres.The post The Breitling SuperOcean Heritage lineup gets its first refresh since 2017 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The 50th Anniversary Bulgari Bulgari Models with Marble Dials
The Bulgari Bulgari remains one of the brand‘s most iconic watches, alongside the Octo and the Serpenti, defined by its clean design and bold bezel engraving. Its story began in 1975 when Bulgari introduced the Bulgari Roma, a limited-edition timepiece designed by Gianni Bulgari as a personal gift for the brand’s top 100 clients. Featuring […]
Monochrome
First Look – The New All-Blue Seiko Prospex Diver 200m Samurai SRPL53
What you see is quite literally what you get with this new Samurai by Seiko. Born as the more edgy, contemporary counterpart to Seiko’s many heritage-inspired dive watches, the Samurai was introduced in 2004 and redesigned completely in 2024. Now, a year onward from the burgundy and black models that introduced us to a smaller […]
Fratello
A Closer Look At The Latest Releases From Armin Strom
We’ve visited with Armin Strom since the Baselworld days. Indeed, the brand was founded in 2009 by Serge Michel and Claude Greisler in Biel, Switzerland. This makes the company, comparatively speaking, one of the “old guard” in haute horlogerie. Admittedly, my interest in this style of open-worked watch has only recently begun, and I now […] Visit A Closer Look At The Latest Releases From Armin Strom to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Kollokium Introduces the luminous Projekt 01 Variant F
Known for its quirky pixelated dials and brutalist die-cast cases, Kollokium has introduced the Projekt 01 Variant F, which takes the brand’s signature dial and elevates it with hundreds of individual Lichtblock lume elements. The violet lume elements feature various sizes and heights, and are clustered around the even-numbered hour markers to provide a degree of legibility. It’s a striking look, especially when the lights go out and the lume can truly shine. Founded in 2020 by Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium has released a total of six models since inception. All models to-date have used roughly the same 40 mm die-cast steel case and the same basic design concept. The Variant F is a limited edition of 399 pieces and will be available directly from Kollokium and its authorised dealers in June 2025. Initial thoughts After years collecting watches, it’s easy to feel like every new watch is a remake of something else, because for many brands, especially towards the lower end of the price spectrum, that tends to be true. So it’s refreshing when a new brand like Kollokium manages to create a recognisable and distinctive aesthetic from day 1. The Variant F features the same 40 mm die-cast steel case as previous Kollokium models, but the water resistance has been increased from 30 m to 50 m. To clear the taller hand stack, the box-shaped crystal is also a bit higher, adding about a millimeter to the overall height, which is now 11.95 mm. The choice...
Hodinkee
Magazine Feature: These Watch Dealers Want You To Feel Very Special
We meet the cast of characters behind the New York and Miami-based watch selling collective.
Worn & Wound
Summer Vibes from Marseille: Recapping Jacques Bianchi’s Special Showroom Event
On Thursday, May 29th, the Windup Watch Shop Showroom in Brooklyn played host to a lively evening that brought the sun-soaked spirit of Marseille straight to New York City. The occasion? A special event with Jacques Bianchi Marseille, celebrating the brand’s official entry into the U.S. market and offering local enthusiasts an exclusive first look at their newest release. Since opening its doors earlier in December of last year within Worn & Wound’s Brooklyn headquarters, the Windup Watch Shop Showroom has become a go-to gathering place for collectors and brands alike. The Jacques Bianchi event was a shining example of what the space is all about: passionate people, hands-on hard-to-find horology, and a strong sense of community. Founded by veteran French watchmaker Jacques Bianchi in the early 1980s, the brand first gained attention with its JB200, a no-nonsense dive watch built for professionals-including members of the French Navy. With its signature silhouette and dial featuring a swimmer motif, the JB200 quickly earned a cult following among those who value both function and flair. Though the brand remained relatively under the radar for decades, its recent revival has reignited global interest, especially among fans of vintage-inspired tool watches with true military provenance. That history was front and center at the event with a full timeline installation, as members of the Jacques Bianchi team shared insight into the brand’s origins, its connection to Med...
SJX Watches
Seiko’s Affordable Presage Gets an “Unglazed Porcelain” Dial
Seiko has introduced a new addition to its line of affordable dress watches, the Presage Craftsmanship “Unglazed Arita Porcelain” ref. SPB497. This limited edition retains the accessible pricing the Presage is known for, but is more than just affordable. Unlike previous models with glossy porcelain dials, this has a matte texture that enhances the rhombus patterned surface, traditionally a symbol of prosperity and health in Japan. Initial Thoughts When Seiko launched the first enamel-dialed Presage in 2013, it was an incredible value. In the years since, Seiko has expanded the range with more ambitious designs, and other materials such as Arita porcelain and Urushi lacquer, though the dial decoration techniques employed are uniformly traditional and Japanese. While the Presage models are still accessibly priced, this new model is US$1,850. The price tag is no longer the most compelling aspect but the dials themselves are still interesting in themselves. Unglazed porcelain dials are already almost non-existent, and the diamond pattern makes it even more interesting. Supporting traditional craft arts is also admirable, and has seen great success in the Swiss watch industry, albeit at a much higher price point. The new model employs the familiar Presage case, which is on the large side for a simple, dress watch, and the 27 mm diameter movement could easily fit into a smaller case. However, since a larger case also means a larger dial, it can be forgiven. Unglazed Dial Ari...
Worn & Wound
Rado Introduces Three New Colorful Anatom References
When it comes to watches from big, corporate owned brands, it’s sometimes hard these days to find designs that feel fresh and inventive. This just the way of the watch world. Particularly in an environment where it might be difficult to sell a watch (Swiss exports are down, tariff threats loom, etc) you can forgive the biggest brands for playing it safe, putting products on the market that they know will sell to their core customers. They might not be the most creative watches ever devised, but if they exhibit a “first, do no harm” mentality, that’s probably a win in the eyes of many brands. One of the things I’ve always appreciated about Rado is that it feels like they’ve been given a longer leash, and the opportunity to fully embrace what makes them unique among Swatch Group brands. Rado is, at their core, about materials, and they lead with design. Sure, the Captain Cook is a staple, and there are other watches in the Rado catalog that have a hint of the generic, but when I think about the brand, the watches that come to mind feature colorful ceramic and interesting shapes. The Anatom has been a favorite of mine since Rado reissued it a few years ago. It’s an 80s cult favorite, and the modern reinterpretation holds up remarkably well and offers a unique spin on the integrated bracelet sports watch trend. Rado has just announced a trio of new Anatoms in bright colors that should appeal to enthusiasts who might be after something colorful and a bit whims...
Teddy Baldassarre
Sinn 104 Review
Before I get into this review of the Sinn 104 St Sa I white-dial watch, I wanted to offer some of my thoughts and provide some context about the brand. Now, if you know me, you know I’m a longtime fan of Germany’s Sinn and its iconoclastic range of tool watches. all of which have that extra little bit of over-engineered oomph when compared to many of their rugged peers. Come to think of it, these watches actually have no peers, given their unique solutions to problems facing watches that actually experience adverse conditions. Sinn History & Context Founded in 1961 in Frankfurt by ex-military pilot Helmut Sinn, the brand's cultish popularity stems from its technical innovations, which include the so-called "Submarine" steel, developed for the modern German Navy and found in many Sinn dive watches. Submarine steel possesses a mechanical strength more than one and a half times that of normal steel, and additionally, it's highly resistant to magnetism, cracking, and corrosion. In fact, Sinn claims the alloy is completely resistant to prolonged exposure to salt water, something that few stainless-steel formulations can claim. Sinn also employs an additional technology for hardening both stainless steel and titanium surfaces under the Tegiment name. This treatment increases both hardness and scratch resistance even further, making for a practically bombproof finish. The caseback of the Sinn U15 Sinn also goes above and beyond when it comes to handling pressure. For its p...
Hodinkee
Rolex Debuts 'Don't Blink' – A Mini Doc About Racing Driver Tom Kristensen
The nine-time winner at Le Mans and long-standing Rolex Testimonee is profiled in advance of this year's race at Le Mans.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Kollokium Projekt 01 Variant F, a Luminous Design Manifesto
Kollokium, the unconventional design collective founded in 2020 by three friends, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi (The Horophile), looks to defy traditional watchmaking norms. Rethinking the way to approach watchmaking and especially branding, this is, in fact, not a brand but rather a platform free from constraint. The latest release, the Projekt 01 […]
Fratello
Crossing Antarctica With An Omega Speedmaster
Today on Fratello, we’re sharing the story of how two adventurers crossed Antarctica on foot in 1989. One of those men, Reinhold Messner, wore an Omega Speedmaster on his wrist during the journey. Traversing a vast expanse of ice, snow, and howling winds is no small feat. Antarctica is one of the starkest landscapes on […] Visit Crossing Antarctica With An Omega Speedmaster to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Editorial: My Obsession with German Neo-Vintage Watches Under $5,000
Vintage watches remain ever popular in the watch collector’s journey. There are serious collectors who remain focused on buying only vintage. Since the pandemic, my inbox has been flooded with auction houses and vintage dealers trying to one-up each other by selling the most curated “once in a lifetime” or most expensive vintage piece. I have nothing against the sellers and buyers, especially if they can vouch for the authenticity and pay for the repairs, they deserve my appreciation. Personally, I am apprehensive of owning vintage watches at my current point of collecting. I owned a few vintage watches in my early days as a collector, most of them were bargain finds on eBay that eventually stopped working or I ended up trading, except for one expensive Rolex Datejust that had to be serviced. Ultimately, service on the Datejust was as expensive as the watch, including Rolex replacing the dial to a different color which I hated and ended up selling for a loss. I know it was a rookie mistake, but that was the end of vintage watches for me. After that experience, I stuck to buying either new watches from retailers or pre-owned watches from other collectors. As it happened, my work took me to Germany often, and there I discovered a whole new world of neo-vintage watches. Before I get deeper into what specific “affordable” neo-vintage watches a couple of my collector friends and I recommend, I should briefly define what neo-vintage watches are and why they are easier ...
Monochrome
Introducing – Glashütte Original Releases a Quartet of New Serenade Luna models
The Lady Serenade and PanoMatic Luna are Glashütte Original’s mechanical watch collections for women. While the PanoMatic Luna is essentially a smaller version of the men’s model, the Lady Serenade collection was conceived as a ladies’ watch from the start. Last year, the Lady Serenade was given a moonlight serenade with the incorporation of a moon phase display and […]