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Business News: Watches & Wonders 2021 Will Happen Online – And in Shanghai SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin as will Jan 29, 2021

Business News: Watches & Wonders 2021 Will Happen Online – And in Shanghai

Originally slated to be the ultimate watch fair that would also include the major brands that departed Baselworld, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) did not take place in 2020 due to the pandemic and instead became a virtual show online, before being transported to China as an actual, physical fair. The event is returning in 2021 in exactly the same format, but with a far larger number of brands taking part. W&W; will happen online from April 7-13, where 38 brands will introduce their latest watches. The participants include nearly all of watchmaking’s major brands and conglomerates. All of Richemont’s brands will be present, including A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, and Vacheron Constantin, as will the brands owned by LVMH – TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith. The list of exhibitors also includes a handful of independent brands, but few are significant, save for Greubel Forsey. Most crucially, the twin giants of Geneva watchmaking will be taking part, giving the event far greater influence and a wider audience – Rolex and its sister brand Tudor, as well as Patek Philippe. Much like the traditional watch fair in Geneva, the online version of W&W; will be open to retailers, journalists, and select clients of the participating brands. W&W; Shanghai in 2020. Photo – Watches & Wonders And a few days later… With strong demand for luxury watches in China – where social and economic life is largely back to normal – W&W; will then take place as a physical fair in Shanghai once again, b...

VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Collection is updated and ready for 21st century space flight Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Jan 28, 2021

VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Collection is updated and ready for 21st century space flight

To update an icon, Omega have always understood that the path must be evolution rather than revolution. So what did they do on the first Speedy Tuesday of 2021? They showed the world what the next step was down the path of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. Eight new references were announced, including options in Sedna gold … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Collection is updated and ready for 21st century space flight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Farer Field Watch Collection combines the best of British design with Swiss watchmaking Time+Tide
Farer Field Watch Collection combines Jan 28, 2021

VIDEO: The Farer Field Watch Collection combines the best of British design with Swiss watchmaking

Britain has a long history of horological greatness, having lead the way in innovation thanks to the likes of  Thomas Tompion and John Harrison. Today, Farer is a brand that continues to fly the flag for passionate UK watchmakers. Established in 2015, Farer has released a number of heritage-inspired collections. Their philosophy is underpinned by … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Farer Field Watch Collection combines the best of British design with Swiss watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

AUCTION NEWS: This Vacheron Constantin sold for just 40 per cent of its $3 million prediction. Is 2021 off to a catastrophically slow start? Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin sold Jan 27, 2021

AUCTION NEWS: This Vacheron Constantin sold for just 40 per cent of its $3 million prediction. Is 2021 off to a catastrophically slow start?

I did choose to be very optimistic in my story last week about the astounding Vacheron Constantin Tour de L’Ile reaching a cool record $3 million to kick off a healthy 2021. The estimate was set at Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces in Monaco to a spread of $1.8 – $3 million. But the watch … ContinuedThe post AUCTION NEWS: This Vacheron Constantin sold for just 40 per cent of its $3 million prediction. Is 2021 off to a catastrophically slow start? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Garrick Debuts an Affordable, Contemporary Take on English Watchmaking SJX Watches
Garrick Jan 27, 2021

Garrick Debuts an Affordable, Contemporary Take on English Watchmaking

Garrick is a newish independent watch brand based in Norfolk, England. Founded in 2014, it specialises in watches inspired by historical English watchmaking, exemplified by the S1, an elaborately-conceived, but pricey, timepiece. Now the brand has launched its most compelling buy to date, the Garrick S4. Like its earlier model, the S4 still possesses many elements drawn from English watches of yore, but is executed more simply. The S4 still boasts an unusual level of hand-finished details – including a barrel and crown wheel cover decorated with floral engraving and hand-finished bevelling – but is priced far more accessibly, with a retail price that starts under US$6,000 before taxes. Initial thoughts While independent-watchmaking startups are proliferating, most don’t diverge too far from each other; many focus on dial and case designs that are modern looking, think Ming and Sartory Billard. The Garrick S4 is unusual, particularly in two attributes that set it apart – traditional, pocket watch-inspired design and hand-finished details – which bring to mind an earlier generation of independent watchmakers like D. Dornblüth & Sohn. The most discernible feature of the S4 is the dial, which is unabashedly classical in style. But like the pocket watches that inspire it, the dial has depth, thanks to a multiple-part construction and varied surface finishes, including an engine-turned seconds register. Over on the back, the view is necessarily simpler than that ...

Behind The Lens: Shooting Watches With The Hasselblad X1D-50C – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 24, 2021

Behind The Lens: Shooting Watches With The Hasselblad X1D-50C – Reprise

GaryG ordered a Hasselblad X1D. He had never shot with a medium-format camera before, and the resolving power, color rendering, and ability to seemingly wrap light around a subject completely blew him away. So when Hasselblad announced that it would be offering a 120 mm macro lens for the X1D, he was among the very first to sign up. But did it make a difference in his watch photography?

Competition is tough in this battle to pick the top five TAG Heuer watches of 2020 Time+Tide
TAG Heuer watches Jan 24, 2021

Competition is tough in this battle to pick the top five TAG Heuer watches of 2020

Within the world of sports watch manufacturers, TAG Heuer has carved its place in history as one of the leading brands. Best known for its racing chronographs, today the brand combines the best of both worlds, creating timepieces inspired by its rich heritage while incorporating the latest movement and manufacturing technologies. TAG Heuer has always … ContinuedThe post Competition is tough in this battle to pick the top five TAG Heuer watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was Jan 21, 2021

Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep

There’s a strong argument that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was the first real diver’s watch of its kind… and that’s because it was. It’s also true that the Rolex Submariner, which was also released in 1953, but after the Fathoms, did borrow some stylistic cues from the Blancpain. However, if any one watchmaker can claim … ContinuedThe post Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Richemont Sales Recover in Third Quarter SJX Watches
Panerai Jan 20, 2021

Business News: Richemont Sales Recover in Third Quarter

In the third quarter of its financial year – the three months to end-December 2020 – Richemont reported a modest recovery, with sales rising 5% over the same period a year before at constant exchange rates. This modest recovery was enough to moderate its results for the nine months to date, with revenue for the period down 14%, as compared to the drastic 38% plunge in sales for the first half of the year. Owners of over two dozen watch and jewellery brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai, the Swiss luxury conglomerate was buoyed by robust demand in Asia, its biggest regional market, as well as the Middle East and Africa. Combined, the two regions make up approximately half of Richemont’s global sales. The Asia Pacific enjoyed a 25% rise in sales, driven largely by exceptional demand in mainland China, where revenue rose an impressive 80% for the period, with sales in Taiwan also seeing a marked 29% increase – both consequence of a return to regular economic activity as the pandemic was brought under control, and the inability to travel and shop overseas. Paradoxically, the results in the Middle East were driven by a revival of tourist spending in Dubai as flights resumed, and domestic spending in Saudi Arabia where citizens cannot easily go abroad. This contributed towards a remarkable 27% increase in sales for the region. Elsewhere, sales too rose, albeit in smaller, single-digit increments. Bolstered by domestic demand, sales in the Americas rose by 3%. Jap...

Urwerk Unveils the UR-100V T-Rex in Patterned Bronze SJX Watches
Zenith Elite base movement Jan 19, 2021

Urwerk Unveils the UR-100V T-Rex in Patterned Bronze

Synonymous with avant-garde watchmaking, Urwerk’s best-known complication is its reinterpretation of the centuries-old wandering hours, executed in both two- and three-dimensional motion. Just over a year ago, Urwerk unveiled the UR-100 SpaceTime, an easily-wearable, entry-level iteration of the satellite-disc wristwatch. Now the brand has taken the covers off the UR-100V T-Rex. Perhaps the most interesting version of the UR-100 to date, the T-Rex has an aged bronze case covered in a pronounced hobnail pattern that evokes the Tyrannosaurus rex. More notably, the “V” suffix in the model name indicates the Zenith Elite base movement in the original UR-100 has been replaced with a Vaucher automatic. Initial thoughts Still original despite being some two decades old, the satellite hours remains the brand’s forte. And the UR-100 is arguably the most compelling version of the watch in recent year, being both the most affordable and wearable. That probably explains why the UR-100 has sold well, resulting in the brand rolling out several variants in a short span of time, ranging from basic version in steel or titanium to the top of the line model in 18k yellow gold. But the UR-100 is at heart a pared-back design, simpler in form than the brand’s early watches, which are mostly more elaborate in the case construction. So the milled scales on the bronze case of the T-Rex sets it apart from other UR-100s – both in aesthetics and tactile feel – giving it an edgy look...

Kardashian family splashes out 300K on Rolex watches as gifts to film crew after final season of KUWTK wraps Time+Tide
Rolex watches as gifts Jan 16, 2021

Kardashian family splashes out 300K on Rolex watches as gifts to film crew after final season of KUWTK wraps

OK, I am not going to pretend this show was part of my television diet, but Keeping up with the Kardashians has undoubtedly been a world phenomenon over the past 15 years it has aired. The Kardashian family is practically royalty in the United States with many devoted fans supporting their respective businesses and endeavours. … ContinuedThe post Kardashian family splashes out 300K on Rolex watches as gifts to film crew after final season of KUWTK wraps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch Time+Tide
Blancpain gave birth Jan 14, 2021

Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch

Many, many people out there view the ubiquitous Rolex Submariner as the forefather of all amphibious timepieces. And they’re dead wrong. In fact, the first truly fit-for-purpose dive watch was made by one of the oldest Swiss watchmakers in the game – Blancpain. The story of the world’s first dive watch is an interesting one, … ContinuedThe post Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Book Review: ‘Stalin’s Wine Cellar’ By John Baker Quill & Pad
Jan 12, 2021

Book Review: ‘Stalin’s Wine Cellar’ By John Baker

Whether 'Stalin’s Wine Cellar' is a journey about chasing fakes, or if these bottles hidden away in the former Soviet Union are genuine, the story makes for a rollicking saga. And if the bottles are genuine, who really did own them and what on earth might they be worth? The tale takes us on twist after twist and has been described as “Raiders of the Lost Ark for wine lovers.” Ken Gargett couldn't put the book down.

Celebrating Seiko’s NH35 movement – the unsung hero used by top microbrands in everything from indestructible divers to vintage stunners Time+Tide
Seiko s NH35 movement – Jan 12, 2021

Celebrating Seiko’s NH35 movement – the unsung hero used by top microbrands in everything from indestructible divers to vintage stunners

Is Seiko’s NH35 movement ubiquitous due to its brilliance or sheer availability? This hand-wound, hacking movement is today widely used on the microbrand scene and is basically the unbranded version of Seiko’s 4R35 movement that’s universally admired for its toughness and accuracy. Similarly reliable and robust, the NH35 is a strong mechanical heart fitted to … ContinuedThe post Celebrating Seiko’s NH35 movement – the unsung hero used by top microbrands in everything from indestructible divers to vintage stunners appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille RM 65-01 Split Seconds Automatic Chronograph: How Many Clicks Does It Take? Quill & Pad
Richard Mille RM 65-01 Split Seconds Jan 10, 2021

Richard Mille RM 65-01 Split Seconds Automatic Chronograph: How Many Clicks Does It Take?

The RM 65-01 is the latest in a proud line of rugged, structurally advanced chronographs from Richard Mille. In basic terms, it is an automatic, split-seconds chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers that displays the date and includes a function selector, rapid winding mechanism, and variable geometry winding rotor. But as Joshua Munchow reveals, there's much more to it than that.

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Jan 5, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend

This morning a new generation of Omega Speedmaster Professionals were announced, but that was not the only legendary chronograph revival and rejuvenation introduced today. Zenith has unveiled a new tribute to one of their chronographs from 1969: the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Gradient Dial. Game-changers in their day, Zenith produced three watches that were not … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich” which Jan 5, 2021

VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last

Editor’s note: Today, Omega did what they had been hinting at for months: they launched eight new Speedmaster references across four models, all with the new Master Chronometer Calibre 3861. The four references include regular versions with Hesalite and Sapphire and precious metal versions in Omega’s proprietary Canopus gold and Sedna gold, all with options … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nicki Minaj’s three-month-old son rocks a diamond-encrusted Nautilus worth $400K Time+Tide
Rolex Jan 4, 2021

Nicki Minaj’s three-month-old son rocks a diamond-encrusted Nautilus worth $400K

Well. I don’t know if Nicki Minaj saw my recent story about six unexpected watch spots, which included Cristiano Ronaldo Jr. wearing his father’s Rolex – the most expensive one for sale at retail today. But it seems I may have been a little hasty in proclaiming Ronaldo Jr. the junior #wristgame champion. I genuinely believed … ContinuedThe post Nicki Minaj’s three-month-old son rocks a diamond-encrusted Nautilus worth $400K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Jan 4, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

While the L.U.C XP is best known as Chopard’s pared-back, formal-dress wristwatch, it also forms the base for an interesting collection of limited-edition timepieces decorated in urushi and maki-e, forms of traditional Japanese lacquer – an East Asian take on the metiers d’art often found in Swiss watchmaking. The latest addition to the line its most unusual to date, being not just a decorative expression but also a new, albeit simple, complication. Decorated in lacquer and gold dust, the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen has a mechanism displaying traditional Chinese time of 12-hour days, with each hour represented by an animal of the Chinese Zodiac. Initial thoughts Watches inspired by Chinese culture are common – and increasing given the strength of demand for watches in China – but they oftentimes have an over-the-top aesthetic. Chopard, on the other hand, incorporated the Chinese motifs elegantly, resulting in an appealing watch. At a distance, the Spirit of Shí Chen has a simple, geometric style, but up close the dial reveals its decorative details. The deep-black lacquer dial – sprinkled with gold dust that evoke the cosmos – gives the watch a clean, restrained appearance, save for the elaborate, solid-gold frame and shí chen indicator. An ancient way of telling time is uncommon in a modern watch, making the shí chen indicator the highlight – appropriately enough it is rendered in gold powder and fine detail, with a gold-dusted background tha...

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God – I’m Jaded No Longer Quill & Pad
Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No Dec 31, 2020

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God – I’m Jaded No Longer

This Breguet souscription pocket watch number 1836 was created just after the French Revolution in 1796 and was sold in 1807 for £600. A testament to the quality of the movement’s design and the skill of its watchmaker, after more than 200 years it still runs perfectly today, which makes it the perfect role model for Breguet's modern Tradition line. But what relationship does Ian have to it?

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2020 SJX Watches
Chopard Dec 31, 2020

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2020

As it was with independent watchmaking, 2020 was a surprisingly good year for the establishment brands. Even though there were practically no in-person launches of new products – with the notable exception being Watches & Wonders in Shanghai – mainstream watchmakers did still debut notable timepieces. Here’s my take on the standouts of the year, starting with the might FB 2RE from Ferdinand Berthoud, a niche name that is nonetheless a subsidiary of Chopard (and the pet project of its co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele). Magnificent both in mechanics and decoration, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE is the watch of the year. Clearly developed a no-expense spared wristwatch, the FB 2RE is at heart a time-only watch constructed for chronometric perfection. It’s equipped with both a a remontoir d’egalite as well as chain and fusee in order to ensure a constant output of energy from the barrel, as well as a constant delivery of energy into the escapement. Both of its key feature are put on show in the symmetrical and architecturally expansive movement, which has all of its key components sitting above the main plate. The FB-RE.FC movement Located just below the balance wheel, the remontoir is particularly fine, made up of slender steel components that are clearly artisanal in manufacture and finish. The quality of finishing extends to the rest of the movement, which is impeccably decorated in every single aspect. In fact, the quality of the movement is com...

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Dec 18, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Limited Edition

Grand Seiko has been celebrating its 60th Anniversary these past few weeks and months, but during today’s Grand Seiko USA webinar some huge news was announced regarding the future of Grand Seiko USA, as well as a new watch – the Grand Seiko SBGE263 US Limited Edition. The 110 watches are a nod to the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

BATTLE ROYALE: What is the best Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ever? The T+T team fight it out Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ever? Dec 18, 2020

BATTLE ROYALE: What is the best Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ever? The T+T team fight it out

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is a legend for a reason. It was the first luxury integrated steel sports watch, and would go on to define arguably the most popular category of watches available today. But in the decades since it was first released, there have been countless different expressions of the iconic octagonal design. … ContinuedThe post BATTLE ROYALE: What is the best Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ever? The T+T team fight it out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding: All-Gold, Off-Beat Elegance Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding All-Gold Off-Beat Dec 14, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding: All-Gold, Off-Beat Elegance

With the Égérie collection, Vacheron Constantin created a very tempting assortment of watches appealing to contemporary women. While the design of the Égérie is rooted in tradition, these watches always come with a little twist. In the case of the new Égérie Self-Winding, quite literally as the crown is at two o'clock with the date of this self-winding model occupying the same corner of the dial. While also available in steel, Martin Green thinks that the pink gold version on a gold bracelet is an especially precious proposition.

HANDS-ON: Watches on bracelets are always better and this TAG Heuer Monaco is proof Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Dec 14, 2020

HANDS-ON: Watches on bracelets are always better and this TAG Heuer Monaco is proof

TAG Heuer’s Monaco has experienced a rather slow evolution in recent years, as the world’s most famous square watch shouldn’t be messed with too much. The new black dial TAG Heuer Monaco on bracelet is a further exploration into the watch’s roots, while keeping up to date with all the technical quality we expect from … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Watches on bracelets are always better and this TAG Heuer Monaco is proof appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: The man we partnered with for our first watch releases, Sir George Bamford Time+Tide
Dec 10, 2020

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: The man we partnered with for our first watch releases, Sir George Bamford

George Bamford, founder of Bamford Watch Department and living proof that disrupting a traditional industry can bear new fruit for all and open it up to a more engaged, more youthful audience.  Now drumroll, please, for a very special announcement.  George, please tell us the story behind the watch you’re wearing today I am currently … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: The man we partnered with for our first watch releases, Sir George Bamford appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.