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Introducing: The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Fratello
Jun 6, 2025

Introducing: The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

I have had the pleasure of meeting Josh Shapiro, owner of the eponymously named J.N. Shapiro Watches, several times. Hailing from Los Angeles, he has a wealth of knowledge about watchmaking history, movements, and finishing techniques. Until now, he has focused on exclusive and expensive watches with prices over $75,000 and wait times of nearly […] Visit Introducing: The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure to read the full article.

12 Royal Oak Alternatives For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 6, 2025

12 Royal Oak Alternatives For Every Budget

So, you love Audemars Piguet’s inarguably iconic Royal Oak, but you are looking for some Royal Oak alternatives that capture the vibe of the watch at a price point that won’t give you night sweats? You and I, my friend, are in the same boat, chugging along the turbulent sea that is modern watch pricing. Recently, it seems that I have set out on a personal renegade mission to target some of the most well-known watch designs of all time, and offer a sampling platter of alternatives that go down a little easier, with price tags that won’t keep you up at night questioning how yourself and your family will ever recover from your watch collecting hobby. Clearly, my next target is the Royal Oak, which just so happens to be one of my favorite watches of all time.  For anyone new here, the rules of the road are as follows: below, I will offer up some watches at various price points, from the extremely affordable (under $200, perhaps) watch alternatives from various brands as bounty. These picks will range from blatant copycats (or homages to the Royal Oak, if you prefer) to other, more wild-card picks that, in my point of view, demonstrate a key ingredient of the design at hand, though it might be less obvious at first glance. In the Royal Oak alternatives recipe, those key ingredients are an integrated bracelet construction (or the appearance of one, with the help of a quick-release strap mechanism), bezels with complex geometry, and an overall feeling of sportiness. Of cou...

Introducing – The New Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Cinquanta Azzurro & Champagne Monochrome
Jun 6, 2025

Introducing – The New Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Cinquanta Azzurro & Champagne

Gagà Laboratorio Milano, founded in 2024 by Ruben Tomella and his friend and renowned tattoo artist Mo Coppoletta, expands its Labormatic Cinquanta line with two new dial colour variants for 2025: Labormatic Azzurro and Labormatic Champagne. While visually updated, these models retain the same technical specifications and construction as previous entries in the collection, with […]

Reviewing The New Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar In Ice Blue WatchAdvice
Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Jun 5, 2025

Reviewing The New Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar In Ice Blue

The first standard production watch with the Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar movement, of course, had to be a Navitimer. We have gone hands-on with it to see how it stacks up! What We Love That ice-blue dial is stunning! Has an amazing wrist presence and an iconic design Easy to use and adjust movement with the perpetual calendar What We Don’t The reverse-style strap can get in the way, depending on your wrist size The 30m water resistance is on the low side The 43mm size will not suit all wrist sizes if you have a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When you think of Breitling, one of the first, if not the first, model that comes to mind is the Navitimer. Not only is it one of Breitling’s most iconic models, but it is also one of the most iconic watches out there, thanks to its history, unique slide-rule bezel and overall design cues that make it stand out. You can easily recognise a Navitimer on the wrist from a distance. In that regard, it’s up there with the Submariner, the Speedmaster, the Luminor, and the Royal Oak, to name but a few. So it stands to reason that it was one of the models to receive the new in-house B19 Perpetual Calendar movement as part of Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection. The 18k Rose Gold 140th Anniversary Navitimer B19 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. This was my pick of the three, but we chose to review the Super Chronomat instead, given the uniquene...

Rolex Nicknames Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jun 5, 2025

Rolex Nicknames Explained

When it comes to Rolex, nicknames for its watches are almost as plentiful as the watches themselves – and often so esoteric that even avid watch enthusiasts can be perplexed by them. Can you tell a Kermit from a Hulk, for example? Or a John Player from a John Mayer? And would you be able to identify a Thunderbird or a Texano in the rare chance you’d come across one these days? Rolex’s legions of fans have been bestowing colorful and often esoteric nicknames on its most noteworthy watches for decades, and there are more of them than you probably even realize. Here’s a mostly alphabetical primer on the top 20 Rolex nicknames you’re likely to hear (and maybe even use) regularly in today’s buzzing watch-enthusiast community.  Batman GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR Debuting in 2013, this Rolex GMT-Master II reference garnered the nickname “Batman” for its first-of-its-kind bicolor Cerachrom bezel in shades of blue and black, which undoubtedly brought to mind for many enthusiasts the signature colors of DC Comics’ dark-garbed guardian of Gotham City. This “Batman” moniker is now applied primarily to the model on the three-link Oyster bracelet.  Batgirl GMT-Master II Ref. 126710BLNR As alluded to directly above, the “Batgirl” name has been applied to the Ref. 126710BLNR of the aforementioned GMT-Master II, introduced in 2019, which differs from the original “Batman” only in its choice of a Jubilee bracelet rather than an Oyster. Is one more masculine...

Urban Jürgensen Introduces the UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Jun 5, 2025

Urban Jürgensen Introduces the UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar

Urban Jürgensen closes its newly launched model lineup with a surprising creation, the UJ-3 . An integrated perpetual calendar that elegantly builds on the base of time-only UJ-2, the UJ-3 is equipped with a calendar module developed in collaboration with independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler. The UJ-3 is the third and final watch in Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch lineup, which was among this year’s most unexpected (but welcome) surprises. Initial thoughts The introduction of a perpetual calendar along with the two other models is an impressive move by the team at Urban Jürgensen. Brands typically debut with a single model; Urban Jürgensen has managed three all-new watches. The fact that in addition to a tourbillon (and a special one at that) of the UJ-1, Urban Jürgensen managed to develop a complex perpetual calendar is nothing short of remarkable. Moreover, the perpetual calendar of the UJ-3 integrated with the movement, and not merely added as a module.  Urban Jürgensen is being transparent in revealing the UJ-3 is a collaboration between Voutilainen and watchmaker-engineer Andreas Strehler. This openness is important, especially for independent watchmakers. The acknowledgement also adds pedigree to the piece given Mr Strehler’s good reputation. Personally, I find the UJ-3 more cohesive in design compared to the UJ-2. The calendar indications better fill the dial space, and the hands are no longer too small for the face. Also, the dial appearance evokes the p...

Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only SJX Watches
Breguet s work but Jun 5, 2025

Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only

Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future. Initial thoughts The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations. Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects. Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings. The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch - same as in the UJ-1. The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional,...

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet Jürgensen Pratt Jun 5, 2025

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon

Led by Kari Voutilainen and backed by an American collector, Urban Jürgensen has been revived in grand style. The brand’s inaugural watch is undoubtedly one of this year’s most surprising launches, the UJ-1 250th Anniversary Watch. The first of three new models, the UJ-1 is a limited edition that pays tribute to the Oval, a pocket watch created by Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt that is perhaps brand’s greatest timepiece. Having been dormant for a while and a little confused in terms of focus (including jumping on the fad of an integrated bracelet sports watch), the brand is now running full steam ahead and going back to its high horology roots with a trio of models, led by the UJ-1 that lives up to expectations, and then some. Initial thoughts The UJ-1 sets the tone for what is to come from Urban Jürgensen by Kari Voutilainen. Even before turning the watch over and admiring its movement, the execution of the dial hints at the quality within, reflecting the fact that Mr Voutilainen is an undisputed master of guillochage. At first sight the piece shows an engine-turned face that is tastefully restrained. The collective style of Breguet, Jürgensen, Pratt and Voutilainen can be immediately discerned from the dial. While wearing all the marks of traditional engine-turned dials, the proportions, the typeface and the “zero” marker make it look a little updated and almost leaning on the minimalistic.   The subtle change suggests that the brand is truly going into a...

Introducing the Héron Mirabel GMT, an Affordable, Vintage Inspired Dressy Travel Watch Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe   Jun 5, 2025

Introducing the Héron Mirabel GMT, an Affordable, Vintage Inspired Dressy Travel Watch

It’s hard not to feel overwhelmed by the amount of quirky young watch brands pushing to make their name in the horological world-it seems like we are in the current golden age of microbrands and upstarts. Canadian watchmakers Héron, founded in Montreal in 2021, are among that crowd, and looking to make a name for themselves with vintage-inspired styling that is aimed at collectors with old-school taste. With their latest, the Mirabel GMT, the Québécois brand is channeling both aviation functionality and upscale dressy styling to produce a dual-duty timepiece ala upmarket stalwarts like Longines and Patek Philippe.  The Mirabel GMT sits within a stainless steel “C-shaped” case, and measures in at a sporty 37.5mm in diameter and 43.5mm lug-to-lug. True to Héron’s vintage-look aspirations, the enamel painted sector dial has an art deco flair, and features applied Roman numerals, pilot-style “alpha” hands, and a boxed sapphire crystal with underside anti-reflective coating. Four references are available for the Mirabel GMT, with varying dial shades, Delugs Baranil leather strap options, and case finishes. The “black” option features a black dial with gold details and case, and sits on a black strap, while the “brown” option also features gold accents, but wears a luxurious brown dial. Likewise, the “white” edition features a crisp white dial with blue hands and a dark blue strap, and the “blue” model has a blue dial and the same dark blue s...

Citizen Revives Its Funky Depth-Sensing Diver for the Aqualand’s 40th Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen Revives Jun 5, 2025

Citizen Revives Its Funky Depth-Sensing Diver for the Aqualand’s 40th

It’s hard not to smile when a brand pulls something straight out of the archives and actually gets it right. The original Citizen Aqualand that dropped in '85 was a geeky, glorious collision of analog dive chops and digital gadgetry. You didn’t need to love diving to want one; you just needed to be the kind of person who liked pushing buttons to see what they did. I was that person. Still am.

The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss Fratello
Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Jun 5, 2025

The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss

The Swatch press release for this watch says it’s “inspired by the unexplored.” The deep green new Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss with touches of black (bezel) and beige (markers, hands, bezel numerals, etc.) takes inspiration from the ocean’s depths. Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss This is the ninth Blancpain […] Visit The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss to read the full article.

Introducing – The De Bethune Mystery Box: Forget Time, created by Fiona Krüger & Denis Flageollet Monochrome
De Bethune Mystery Box Forget Time Jun 5, 2025

Introducing – The De Bethune Mystery Box: Forget Time, created by Fiona Krüger & Denis Flageollet

The “Mystery Box: Forget Time” results from the collaboration between Fiona Krüger and master watchmaker Denis Flageollet, founder of De Bethune. Known for her original approach to watch design, Fiona Krüger has built a reputation within the independent watchmaking world for her artistic yet technically demanding creations. Her past work, like the Skull and Chaos […]

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver Fratello
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Jun 5, 2025

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver

In 1985, Citizen revolutionized the world of dive watches by introducing the Aqualand. Among the standout features of this then-state-of-the-art dive tool were the multifunctional digital display and built-in electronic depth gauge. The latter gave the watch its distinct shape, with the depth sensor’s hardware element protruding from the left side of the case. The […] Visit Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas Fratello
Rolex Daytonas Rolex only makes Jun 5, 2025

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas

Rolex only makes one chronograph, and it’s called the Daytona. This has been a statement of fact since the first model bearing the name was created in 1963. Okay, fine; there’s one notable exception, the Yacht-Master II. But we’ll leave that as a topic for another day. Today on Fratello Talks, it’s all about our […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Limited Edition Monochrome
Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Jun 5, 2025

Introducing – The New Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Limited Edition

In certain very specific situations, one’s life could very much depend on a watch, especially when it comes to environments humans are not good at surviving without support. And this is where tool watches can, literally, play a vital role. Plunging ourselves into the depths of the ocean, for instance, is a fine example of […]

Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches Fratello
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Jun 5, 2025

Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches

I wrote a lengthy review on the stainless steel Type XX Chronographe 2067 late last year. You can find (and read) it here. If you want to skip to the conclusion, I ended that review with the following paragraph: “I hope Breguet will introduce more variations of the modern Type XX that are closer to […] Visit Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches to read the full article.

J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure SJX Watches
Hamilton shut down Jun 4, 2025

J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure

J.N. Shapiro’s Infinity Series Pure is a new entry point into the American brand. This follows the top-of-the-line Resurgence, the most American-made mechanical wristwatch built since Hamilton shut down in the 1960s. This new model focuses purely on the dial and hands, which are excellent, while trusting Swiss suppliers with ancillary details like the case and caliber. The result is a much more accessible, though less impressive, watch than J.N. Shapiro’s usual fare. Initial Thoughts When the original Infinity line was discontinued in 2023, it left the brand without an entry-level watch, and the company put all of its efforts behind the ambitious Resurgence project. Now that things have settled down, the team once again has the bandwidth to support a second model. The Infinity Series Pure uses an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret (LJP) movement. While a good, slim movement with an extended power reserve, the LJP F200/7380 isn’t particularly premium, and a downgrade from the UWD cal. 33.1 used in previous infinity models. For example, Ralph Lauren uses the LJP movement in its Vintage 67 line priced at around US$3,000. The case is also outsourced, likely to a Swiss manufacturer, through the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a consortium of independent brands that J.N. Shapiro helped found. This focuses all of Shapiro’s attention on the dial and hands, though both are significantly less complex than on the Resurgence. At US$26,000 the Infinity Series Pure is about a ...

Glashütte Original SeaQ Review Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original Jun 4, 2025

Glashütte Original SeaQ Review

The Glashütte Original SeaQ debuted in 2019 alongside the German watchmaker’s then-new “Spezialist” family. The collection has grown to include the SeaQ Panorama Date, the smaller SeaQ 39.5mm, and the SeaQ Chronograph. I believe the SeaQ was the first new dive or sports watch from the brand since the Senator Sport Evolution from 2009. Inspired by the vintage Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969, the SeaQ has gone on to become one of the most lauded luxury dive watches out there. These are true luxury watches, though and they come with matching price tags. Still, the Glashütte Original SeaQ is one of the best options out there for someone with high standards but doesn’t want to join the sea (pun intended) of Submariners and Seamasters out there. There’s a funny quandary that reveals itself when looking at the SeaQ Panorama Date in comparison to the smaller SeaQ with the standard, less sexy date window. You can have the bigger case and the panorama date window or you can have the smaller case without the panorama date window. But, since you can’t have both, I made sure to add a section at the end with a brief comparative rundown of the SeaQ with the smaller 39.5mm case.  Glashütte Original SeaQ Case Let’s start with the SeaQ Panorama which comes in at 43.2mm wide and 15.7mm thick with a 51.4mm lug-to-lug measurement (with 300 m of water resistance). Yes, that’s a big boy and anyone with a smaller (or even the smaller size of medium) wrist is going to have ...

A Taste of the Infinite: Hands-On with the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Worn & Wound
Jun 4, 2025

A Taste of the Infinite: Hands-On with the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

When Zach Kazan told me the other day that a couple of watches by J.N. Shapiro had arrived at the office, I did a double-take. Not privy to the conversations he had been having regarding an article in progress, finding out that two watches by this revered independent were in the office was an exciting surprise. Although I’ve come across perhaps two in the wild I can recall (one a sample of the Resurgence and the other a custom piece for a collector), they aren’t the type of watches that get sent around very often, being rare and high-end. It turned out, perhaps in an even more exciting turn of events, that these weren’t your ordinary, if such a thing exists, J.N. Shapiros; rather, they were samples of a new line called the Infinity Series Pure. A new duo of watches meant to open, or re-open, the brand to a broader audience of collectors. Though still highly limited in nature, these watches aren’t one-offs or custom pieces. Instead, they are serially produced, albeit in only 18 pieces per color, and feature in-house, engine-turned guilloché dials and handmade, finished precious metal hands. As such, although intended as a more accessible model, the term is relative, and the Infinity Series Pures are priced at $26,000, placing them in an interesting competitive space for independent brands. Back to the point of them being in the office, I couldn’t help but spend time with these watches. And, thus, also form some opinions on them. So, although my time was limited, ...

Introducing – The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Monochrome
Jun 4, 2025

Introducing – The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

J.N. Shapiro, one of the celebrated names in independent watchmaking, has earned a following for his masterful use of traditional guilloché and thoughtful, almost philosophical approach to design. Founded by former educator Josh Shapiro, the California-based brand gained recognition with the Infinity Series, showcasing the artisanal craft with Shapiro’s now-signature “Infinity Weave” guilloché pattern. The […]