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Monochrome
When IWC revived the Ingenieur in 2023, it did so by returning to Gérald Genta’s integrated-bracelet design, with functional screws, a structured dial and an emphasis on all things technical. Last year’s full-black ceramic Ingenieur Automatic 42 was quite exemplary. For 2026, IWC takes a more nuanced step with the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in dark […]
Time+Tide
A new quartz Riviera brings heavy vintage vibes with its sizing and styling, thanks to the thin quartz movement inside. The post Baume & Mercier references the Riviera’s origins with new quartz Riviera 73 models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Alpina revisits one of its most recognizable collections with a fresh update for 2026. The Startimer enters a new era with refined proportions and enhanced legibility. Most notably, Alpina reduces the overall case size by 10 percent. The stainless steel case now measures 40mm in diameter and just 10.14mm thick. As a result, the watch […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Collection to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The Startimer redesign updates and improves the model that was first launched 15 years ago, paying tribute to the brand's first military watches in the early 20th century.
Monochrome
Following a global relaunch in 2024 under the leadership of CEO Patrik P. Hoffmann, Favre Leuba’s modern revival focuses on precision-driven timepieces that honour the brand’s extensive archives while meeting contemporary mechanical expectations. Marking the brand’s debut at Watches & Wonders this year, Favre Leuba releases the Harpoon Revival, a faithful 60th-anniversary tribute to the […]
Monochrome
Anyone familiar with H. Moser & Cie.’s Concept watches knows that ‘concept’, in the brand’s vocabulary, means extreme minimalism with dials purged of logos, indices and numerals. Perpetual calendar complications are typically burdened with sub-dials, a profusion of hands and copious information; however, Moser’s transformation of the perpetual calendar into a Concept watch yields one of the […]
SJX Watches
Following the introduction of the same model (sans bracelet) in 18k pink gold last year, the new ‘cosmic blue’ variant of the Roger Dubuis (RD) Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar offers the brand’s signature retrograde day and date complication in a more accessible stainless steel package. Initial thoughts As a maker of big, bold, avant-garde watches, RD has found itself out of step with mainstream collector culture, which lately has favoured smaller, more elegant designs. The brand seems to understand the implications of these latent trends, and just last year introduced the Hommage La Placide, which was widely praised. The new 40 mm Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is another step in the right direction, bridging the gap between RD’s more flamboyant instincts and contemporary collector preferences. In this context, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is clearly a watch designed to resonate more widely - the 40 mm stainless steel case paired with a blue dial is a commercially popular and almost universally appealing configuration. It works in part because the striking Excalibur design and unmistakeable biretrograde day and date functionality keep it from looking too much like anything else. The stainless steel bracelet is also noteworthy. It’s not the first time the brand has offered a steel bracelet - and it has produced this same design in titanium in the past as well - but it might as well be new since the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar will probably appea...
SJX Watches
True to form, IWC has expanded the Ingenieur Automatic 35 with two new references: a blue dial that completes the mid-sized lineup’s colour palette, and the first gem-set Ingenieur of the modern era. Both are straightforward line extensions but should prove commercially successful, especially in the context of current trends favouring smaller watches. Initial thoughts Vintage watch enthusiasts and buyers with smaller wrists will appreciate these additions to the catalogue, though many mainstream watch buyers dismiss any watch under 36 mm out of hand. That instinct is understandable, but misleading here: integrated bracelet watches wear more substantially than their diameters tend to suggest, and the Ingenieur 35 is a watch best understood on the wrist rather than on paper. With the introduction of a diamond-set two-tone reference, it appears IWC is positioning this size as the unisex choice for both men and women while exploring new formats for a broader appeal. New references in the Ingenieur lineup have arrived in a recognisable pattern. Reintroduced in 2023, the current-generation Ingenieur draws on the design language of Gerald Genta’s original but in a 40 mm steel case, offered from launch with silver and black-dialled variants. The ever-popular blue dial joined the 40 mm lineup a year after the collection’s refresh. The 35 mm size is following a similar pattern after launching last year with black and silver dial options. Inevitably blue The ref. IW324907 will ...
Time+Tide
Tudor announces a refreshed Black Bay Ceramic with a matt black ceramic case, a revised dial, and finally, an all-new full ceramic braceletThe post Tudor revises the Black Bay Ceramic, introducing the brand’s first fully ceramic bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Yves Piaget, fourth-generation member of the Piaget family, joined the company in the 1960s and cultivated the brand into a visible and global luxury player. Pushing the brand’s historical ultra-thin mechanical calibres 9P and 12P, and its ultra-slim quartz 7P movement into jewellery terrain, a new generation of fashionable jewellery watches with bright-coloured hardstone dials […]
Time+Tide
The IWC Pilot's Venturer Vertical Drive is the storied brand's first-ever watch designed, engineered, and certified for human spaceflight.The post IWC’s new Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive is the brand’s first space watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Oris rose to become one of Switzerland’s top ten watchmakers by the end of the 1960s, fuelled by automatic models like the Star and its early dive watches. Introduced in 1966 and inspired by the modernist spirit of the era, the Oris Star featured a tonneau-shaped case with seamlessly integrated lugs and was powered by […]
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe updates its Celestial line for the third time, following the addition of a pointer date in 2012 this generation adds the time of sunrise and sunset, and a daring new design for the formidable, space-age 47 mm lug-less case. It also introduces a novel way to account for the transition between summer and winter time, solving a significant shortcoming of astronomical watches for users in Europe and the Americas. Initial thoughts I’ve long thought that Patek Philippe’s greatest strength, other than its massive industrial investments, was its remarkable design diversity. Today brands seem to pursue a unified design language across all of their watches. And while this result is a strong visual identity for the brand, it is extremely limiting. Patek Philippe has no such limits, and the brand has about two dozen different case styles in the current collection, and hundreds in its back catalog. While this leads to its fair share of design misses, at least to my sensibilities, it can also lead to striking successes. I’m sure many will disagree, but I see the new Celestial as the latter. A wristwatch with the time of sunrise and sunset is long overdue from Patek Philippe, and this watch adds the ability to adjust those indications to account for daylight savings time. This addresses the complication’s greatest flaw, but as it is pre-programmed for Geneva, it is somewhat moot if you live at very different latitudes, a flaw the planisphere also shares. Historical...
Deployant
We are now at Ressence, and we are viewing the Type 11, the first movement made by Ressence. RW01 is the first movement which is COSC compliant with an integrated movement with the ROCS, and usable across all Ressence watches. This has 60 hours power reserve from the double barrel. The movement is manufactured byRead More
Monochrome
Some watches follow the established path of horology, refining proportions, improving calibres, and adjusting aesthetics within well-defined and safe boundaries. And then some watches question nearly everything that is considered conventional and classic. When the Ulysse Nardin Freak was unveiled in 2001, it introduced a new design, a new movement, but it also proposed an […]
Monochrome
Tudor was founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf with a clear-cut mission to offer Rolex-level dependability at more accessible prices. Stepping out from under the shadow of its big brother in 2010, Tudor has developed a distinctive personality built around a mix of vintage and modern tool watches, spearheaded by the 2012 Black Bay line. […]
Time+Tide
For its 100-year anniversary, Tudor debuts an entirely new model – the Tudor Monarch – with an integrated design and more decorated calibre.The post The new Tudor Monarch brings a whole new facet to the brand’s range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
There are names that you think would be best if forgotten… This was the case of the Tudor Monarch collection, a range of watches with an elegant-sporty edge, which never proved to be the most successful or appealing. And, for the past years, many of us simply forgot about it. But the Tudor Monarch is […]
Monochrome
A. Lange & Söhne‘s main novelty for 2026 is the impressive Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen, a 50-piece edition that weds the brand’s two complications to its pioneering Lumen technology for the first time. While the iconic Lange 1 retains its off-centred configuration, core functions and proportions, the watch is powered by a new […]
Fratello
Just as Stevie Wonder is the musician’s musician, Jaeger-LeCoultre is the watchmaker’s watchmaker. But what is meant by this? Well, for starters, Jaeger-LeCoultre is a prolific movement manufacturer that supplies other high-end brands. Famously, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra-thin caliber 920 powered the big three ’70s sports watches - Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, AP’s Royal Oak, and Vacheron Constantin’s […] Visit Introducing: Three New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Complications to read the full article.
Monochrome
IWC Schaffhausen continues to expand the modern Ingenieur line by once again pairing the 1970s Gérald Genta-inspired integrated case and bracelet with the crown-operated perpetual calendar developed by Kurt Klaus in the early 1980s. Following the steel version launched last year, this 2026 release introduces a full-titanium construction; meet the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 in […]
Monochrome
After an absence from the catalogue for two years, one of Rolex’s most complicated watches makes a return: the Yacht Master II. And it’s not just an update in looks, as the new ref. 126680 and Ref. 126688 carry forward the torch of this unique collection set in motion in 2007 and redefined in 2017, […]
SJX Watches
Cartier’s crowd favourite Privé line is now 10 years old and the jeweller is returning to its greatest hits for the occasion with two offerings, the first being the flagship Cartier Privé Les Opus. “Opus” is a trio of watches, all in platinum, each being of the most desirable models in the Privé collection – Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and Crash Squelette. Both the Tank Normale and Tortue Monopoussoir are variants of earlier models, retaining the same case and movement as before, but now with silvered dials featuring red markings. The Crash skeleton, on the other hand, is a new model powered by a new calibre, the 1967 MC, a hand-wind movement with hand hammered bridges. The Crash skeleton is limited to 150 pieces, while the other two models are regular production The second anniversary trio is Cartier Privé La Collection, yet another trio of greatest hits, but in yellow gold and not limited edition, which we’ll detail in another story. Cartier Privé La Collection made up of the Tank Cintree, Tank Normale, and Cloche Initial thoughts It is now a given that Cartier will mine its rich archive for new launches and Les Opus is exactly that. Given the strength of Cartier’s iconic designs, all three watches in the collection are appealing, with the Crash being a little more novel than its siblings in the line-up thanks to its skeleton movement. None of the three watches win any awards for imagination or innovation, but that is arguably besides...
Monochrome
While the Monaco has long been a platform for bold design, this new 2026 TAG Heuer release is first and foremost a mechanical statement. With the Monaco Evergraph, TAG Heuer is not just updating an icon but rebuilding the chronograph, in classic Techniques d’Avant-Garde style… The new calibre TH80-00 abandons common chronograph design in favour […]
Fratello
Last year was a big one for Zenith, celebrating the manufacture’s 160th anniversary. For the occasion, the brand introduced the impressive Zenith G.F.J. The release brought back the legendary caliber 135 and marked the start of a new series of dress watches. But after that release, it remained quiet until today. Today, the inaugural G.F.J. […] Visit Zenith Turns The G.F.J. Into A Collection With Two Stunning Stone-Dial Limited Editions to read the full article.
Monochrome
Brands are fully aware that mechanically minded car enthusiasts tend to appreciate mechanical watches, leading to countless sponsorship gestures and collaborations. After a 14-year hiatus, Cartier is set to delight petrolheads with the return of its automotive-inspired Roadster. Renowned as the master of shaped watches, Cartier’s curvaceous, streamlined Roadster has been refined by a team […]
SJX Watches
Sure to be among the most talked-about releases of Watches & Wonders, TAG Heuer has just unveiled the Monaco Evergraph. The openworked Monaco marks the debut of the calibre TH-80, one of the most advanced chronograph movements on the market. The Evergraph’s movement is notable for several reasons, but the most surprising is the use of an innovative compliant structure to simplify the chronograph mechanisms. Initial thoughts Beginning with the relaunch of the TH-Carbonspring last year, TAG Heuer has been on something of a road to redemption. Not long ago it seemed like the brand’s brightest days might be behind it, but the Evergraph provides further evidence that TAG Heuer has been retooling to become a new leader in technical innovation. The famous Breitling-Heuer-Buren Calibre 11 - one of the first automatic chronograph movements to hit the market back in 1969 - debuted in a Monaco, and so it’s fitting that the new TH-80 movement is first glimpsed through the transparent dial of the Monaco Evergraph. In more ways than one, the Evergraph pays proper hommage to original Heuer Monaco while remaining decidedly future-oriented. It is also great to see the TH-Carbonspring literally front and centre on the dial side, proof that TAG Heuer is finally delivering on the promise of carbon hairspring industrialisation. Even before digressing into the distinctive mechanics of the new cal. TH80-00, any chronograph aficionado will greatly appreciate the particular crown and...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin has gently updated one of its most distinctive time-only watches, the Historiques American 1921. Now kitted out with a silver grained dial, the 1921 retains its characteristic dial layout, along with blue Breguet numerals and hands. Like its predecessor, the new 1921 is also available in two sizes, 36.5 mm and 40 mm, but only in pink gold for now. Initial thoughts Ordinarily, cosmetic variations would not be that interesting, but the 1921 has not been iterated upon too often, despite being almost 20 years old. In fact, the 1921 is a fixture in the VC catalogue, yet has varied little given its tenure. As a result, the facelifted model is appealing and also arrives in a timely manner. Though the changes are subtle, namely to the dial texture plus hand and numeral colour, they give the dial a little more life. The updates also make the watch feel a little more modern, but the result still sits comfortably with the historical design. A driver’s watch Sometimes known as a “driver’s watch” for its off-the-vertical dial layout, the 1921 was modelled a small number of watches made by VC in 1919 and subsequent years. The unusual dial alignment was reputedly to improve legibility while driving, or while preaching at the pulpit for one of the owners of the 1920s originals was an American clergyman. The latest version retains the same design and layout as past iterations, with the dial 45 degrees off the vertical and the crown at two o’clock. Instead of a...
Time+Tide
Alpina updates its Startimer Pilot Automatic collection with a redesigned case and dials featuring applied solid lumed indices.The post Alpina updates its Startimer Pilot collection, celabrating 15 years of the modern collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The iconic thin watch is finally coming in a smaller diameter with a newly designed movement and bracelet. The post The Bulgari Octo Finissimo shrinks down to 37mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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