Deployant
Hands-on: the new Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3
We got a quick hands-on session with the new Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d'une Montre 3. Here are our impressions and live photographs.
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Deployant
We got a quick hands-on session with the new Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d'une Montre 3. Here are our impressions and live photographs.
Fratello
When many collectors think of the Speedmaster, they immediately imagine the classic Moonwatch with its Hesalite crystal, 42mm asymmetrical case, and hand-wound chronograph movement. But for those willing to cast their net wider, the Speedmaster family offers a surprising variety of curves, quirks, and historical detours. So, following the wonderful response to our original article […] Visit Five Further Non-Classic Omega Speedmasters Worthy Of Any Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
A classic in Oris’ collection, the Big Crown Pointer Date borrowed features from the brand’s first serially produced pilot’s watch of 1938, including the oversized crown and the pointer date calendar indication. Reintroduced in 1984 by general manager Dr Rolf Portmann on a hunch that nostalgia for mechanical watches with a dash of aviation history […]
Monochrome
Raymond Weil adds a new reference to its elegant and handsome Millesime Moon Phase 35mm with a Japan-exclusive Special Edition overseen by Masayuki Hirota, Editor-in-Chief of Chronos Japan Edition. The watch retains the compact proportions, sector-dial grammar, and restrained vintage cues that made the 35mm Millesime line such a hit, then sharpens it with a two-tone […]
SJX Watches
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its most enduring wristwatch design, Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just unveiled the Laureato Fifty, a watch that highlights the brand’s storied history, while asserting the manufacture‘s place in the current competitive market. As expected, the watch is powered by the brand’s new workhorse calibre GP4800, which makes its official debut here. A limited edition of just 200 pieces, the Laureato Fifty is dressed in a two-tone case of steel and yellow gold, echoing the 1975 original. Though this is a one-off limited edition, it is more than likely that this revised Laureato styling will be implemented across the Laureato line in the coming year. Initial thoughts To understand the Laureato Fifty, we must first consider the era to which it pays tribute. The original design of the Laureato, presented to the world in 1975, appeared right between Gerald Genta’s iconic duo of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, launched in 1972 and 1976, respectively. Compared to these designs, which would come to define the category, the Laureato was different in a few respects. First, the original design is credited to one of GP’s in-house designers, whose name has been lost to time. Second, the original Laureato was cutting edge at the time with its proprietary, chronometer-certified quartz movement, compared to the ultra-thin automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre-derived calibre found in the Royal Oak (and later, the Nautilus). Turning to...
Fratello
Let’s start with the name - Laureato. It’s Italian, which we happen to like here at Fratello. Roughly translated, it means “crowned for success” or “crowned with laurels,” a reward once given to winners of sports competitions and, later, to students and artists. In Italy, laurea is also the equivalent of a master’s university degree. […] Visit Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In a first, Cartier has just unveiled the Santos de Cartier LM in titanium. Its flagship sports watch now features a case and matching bracelet in matte, bead-blasted titanium – specifically grade 23 titanium – while retaining all of the other familiar Santos design elements, including the exposed screws and traditional silvered dial. The Santos in titanium is powered by the same industrial 1847 MC movement found in its steel counterpart, and costs about 20% more, but has a great deal more tactile appeal. The watch is large, lightweight, and low-key. Initial thoughts The Santos was originally conceived as a sports watch in 1904, albeit not of the sort known today. The original was an aviator’s watch, but a tiny and thin watch more comparable to a 21st century dress watch. That history, however, meant that Cartier has rolled out several sporty-ish versions of the Santos in the past. It’s surprising that it took Cartier this long to put together a Santos in titanium. The smooth, blasted case finish has a great deal of tactile appeal, and the muted, matte aesthetic is equally appealing. Some might see this as being way too similar to the steel model – the two are indistinguishable at a distance – but that is part of its appeal. Almost twins, titanium (left) with a bead-blasted finish, and steel with a brushed finish and polished bezel Though the material is different, the exterior finishing is almost identical to that of the steel model, except that the brushed fi...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most popular timepieces in the world, and the "Batman" and "Batgirl" versions, with their alluring black-and-blue colorways, are on many a collector's wish list. But what makes a Batman a Batman, and a Batgirl a Batgirl, and what exactly differentiates these two watches, so similar at first glance, from each other? Here we explore what makes "Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl" such a compelling matchup, and why the debate on the nicknames themselves is so intriguing. Lead image by Bonhams and Sotheby's Before Batman: A Brief History of the Rolex GMT-Master When it hit the market in 1955, one year after its unveiling, the Rolex GMT-Master was both trend-setting and genre-defining in its now-iconic conception. The original GMT-Master (Ref. 6542) was the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. This dual-time functionality was an innovation devised for, and developed in cooperation with, the original watch’s intended users: pilots for Pan American Airlines, at the time one of the U.S.A.’s leading commercial carriers. In that so-called Golden Age of commercial aviation, the growth of long-haul and international flights...
Monochrome
It’s not every day that you have the opportunity to see two of the most exquisite watches of recent years reunited together… Considering the impressive price and rarity of these two timepieces, we felt it was a necessity to simply bring them together in the pages of this magazine, with no other objective than pure […]
Hodinkee
Join Hodinkee and Blancpain for an exclusive preview of the new Villeret collection and more.
Worn & Wound
Citizen has introduced a trio of limited edition watches in their Series8 collection, all of which are inspired by Japanese cityscapes and urban environments. It’s a bit of a departure for the Series8 collection in terms of aesthetics, or at least the point of inspiration, as these watches have typically ruminations on the natural world, or are simply stark, traditional designs that highlight the geometry of the case and integrated bracelet. These new watches all have quite a bit going on in terms of dial texture and the use of gold tones, neither of which are exactly subtle in these references. The centerpiece of the three new LEs is a new 880 Mechanical, reference NB6035-55H, which has a gray coated case and bracelet and a textured white dial with gold tone accents. According to the Citizen, the design inspiration here is that of city lights on fallen snow against an asphalt backdrop. Of the three new watches seen here, this is the only one equipped with a GMT complication, so we also get a white and black 24 hour bezel that complements the dial quite nicely. The movement is a Citizen caliber 9054 (made by Miyota), which has local jumping hour capabilities. The case measures 41mm in diameter and 13.55mm tall, and it’s a limited edition of 1,600 pieces with a retail price of $1,695. The other two watches in Citizen’s cityscape trilogy are both 890 Mechanical references, essentially a diver with an internal rotating bezel. The NB6060-58H is likely the most straight...
Monochrome
Hermès has a flair for creating intriguing case shapes with a dash of poetic licence. Launched in 2024 and designed by creative director Philippe Delhotal, the Cut watch is a stylish, versatile, unisex, sporty-chic collection with a sophisticated design and an in-house movement. Adding a touch of colour, the new Hermès Cut sports a sky […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer “Motoring” channels vintage Rolex Daytona vibes with a cream dial, steel bezel, and affordable sub-$1K price.
Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton revives a cult favorite with an enamel dial, in-house movement, and a wink to the collectors who got there first.
Monochrome
When you turn 75, it means you can look back at three-quarters of a century of achievements and celebrate them with friends and partners. Marking the 75th anniversary of UAE’s leading luxury retailer, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, cult brand Doxa launches a special edition that brings the brand’s 1973-born SUB 250 into sharp contemporary focus […]
Time+Tide
Sometimes the sequel is better than the original, and that's what Philippines-based microbrand Makina has delivered with the Andras_II.The post Makina aims for a smash hit sequel with the Andras_II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
If you consider Louis Vuitton’s horological journey, many might think that it all began in 2002 with the launch of the Tambour watch, which was later transformed into an integrated sports watch in 2023. While this watch really brought the brand onto the map, it’s another watch that started it all. And it was all the way back in […]
Time+Tide
The very first watch Louis Vuitton ever produced has made its way back into the catalogue with a new look dial and updated movement.The post The revived Louis Vuitton Monterey is the next high fashion timepiece appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton returns to its watchmaking roots with a recreation of its first-ever wristwatch, the Monterey. The remake sticks closely to the aesthetics of the original designed by architect Gae Aulenti in 1988, but is made to modern standards. While the original was a design-oriented creation with a high-tech (for the time) quartz movement, today’s Monterey is high-end in every way – case, dial, and movement are all contemporary high horology. Initial Thoughts The Monterey is an unapologetically nostalgic watch, and a yardstick against which Louis Vuitton measures its progress. In 1988, the Parisian malletier made its first foray into the watch market with Montre I, a private label affair produced by IWC and designed by Gae Aulenti. The 1988 watch was an impressive in terms of design and concept, but somewhat dinky in terms of tech: a multifunction quartz watch in gold powered by an IWC quartz movement that is no longer reparable. (It is also worth nothing that follow-up Montre II was clad in ceramic, possibly hinting at a sequel to this limited edition.) Now, Louis Vuitton wants the world to know it can make make a watch itself, only relying on external suppliers for the very most specialised components – and to a much higher standard than the Montre of the past. And the Monterey (a play on the American mispronunciation of montre, French for watch) completely eclipses the original in quality – much like the recent revival of Daniel Roth by Louis Vuitton. The Mont...
Deployant
Longines continues its exploration of high-frequency watchmaking with the release of the Ultra-Chron Classic, a modern reinterpretation of its 1967 Ultra-Chron model. Offered in 37mm and 40mm case sizes, and powered by the high-beat calibre L836.6, the new Ultra-Chron Classic combines heritage styling with contemporary materials and full chronometer certification.
Monochrome
In the dynamic world of watch lovers and enthusiasts, there’s always a lot of chatter about size and dimensions. The diameter, height and length of a watch say a lot about how it will feel on the wrist. And while it might not be the only indicative factor, there’s no doubt about the importance of proportions. […]
Time+Tide
This chrono features five colourways that can be customised not only with straps and bracelets, but with five different coloured bezels.The post Nivada Grenchen unleashes 5 customisable chronographs with the new Chronoking Racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The upwardly-mobile French brand has taken its iconic dive watch, cased it in titanium and housed a manufacture tourbillon movement within.The post Yema inaugurates its high-end Millésime Editions with a titanium tourbillon Superman force majeure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a cup of coffee and an epic showdown between two similar timepieces. After last week’s battle of affordable divers, we now turn to a less popular genre - the classic moonphase watch. Last week, Tudor surprised us with its new 1926 Luna. The latest creation certainly had people […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor 1926 Luna Vs. Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase to read the full article.
Monochrome
It’s often said that the first motor race was held when the second car was built, and although that’s probably a bit of an exaggeration, it’s true that racing is almost as old as the car itself. Ever since the Benz Patent Motorwagen of 1885, people have been captured by the thrill of going fast on […]
Fratello
Some watches come with great stories. The new Venezianico Bucintoro 1976 is one of those. It is the second model in the brand’s Legacy of Time series. So, what is the story? If you’re over 40, you’re probably familiar with the Concorde. British Airways and Air France used the supersonic jet to fly from Paris […] Visit Venezianico Honors The Legendary Concorde With The New Bucintoro 1976 Chronograph to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Sculptural cases, an impressive in-house micro-rotor movement and lots of customisation options make this ArtyA a very compelling package.The post This new ArtyA Luminity Wavy debuts a new AMR-02 calibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Zach gets hands-on with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro PAM01595 and PAM01596 in steel and the PAM01232 in Carbotech.The post Which of these Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro pieces would you pick? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The choice of where to begin a watch collection might just be the most personal decision you ever make in your collecting journey. Today, I will be acting as your watch inspiration fairy godmother and offer up what I think is a delectable platter of best starter watches to choose from for those gearing up to take the plunge into this hobby. Some rules of the road: today, I’m aiming for reasonably attainable watches that I think are suitable for confident beginners. My picks are more geared towards those who have already been bitten by the watch-collecting bug and have surpassed the “will I actually wear a watch regularly” conundrum. This is a necessary phase; we all go through it, but from now on, I will assume that you, dear reader, if you’ve found yourself here, that you are pretty damn confident that you want to wear a watch proudly on a daily basis. So without further ado, let’s get into the watches, shall we? Best GADA Starter Watch Contenders Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Case: 40mm Movement: 8210 Automatic Water Resistance: 50 meters (still water swimming) Price: $356.25 As an entry point into mechanical watches, Citizen and Seiko are really neck-in-neck on offering some of the best value for the price, with many solid automatic models available for under $500. These Japanese heavy hitters are really in a class of their own. But among the rather extensive contemporary catalog of Citizen watches, its Tsuyosa line offers the most versatility and GADA potenti...
Worn & Wound
Standards and certifications in watchmaking were primarily developed for chronometry, as well as to reassure the buyer that their watch had been thoroughly tested to a certain level of accuracy. The standards we see most often in the technical specifications are COSC, METAS, and other company or regional chronometry certifications. In modern watchmaking, other key standards like the ISO 6425 dive watch standard, which was developed in the 1990s and followed by watch companies, also come into play. These standards were largely based on various military set standards for watches; however, since each military set their own requirements, there was not one universally followed standard. The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) published specific requirements and testing procedures for a watch to be officially designated a “Diver’s watch”. While there is no ISO standard for pilot’s watches, there are specific requirements set by militaries around the world. One of the most well-known standards is from the WWII German pilot’s watch known as the “Beobachtungsuhren” or “B-Uhren.” B-Uhren pilot’s watch standards are well documented and are still followed by many watch companies to this day. In March 2012, Sinn lead an initiative in collaboration with the Faculty of Aerospace Technology at the Aachen University of Applied Sciences to create TESTAF – Technical Standard for Pilot Watches. TESTAF was developed so that a pilot’s watch meets all mod...
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