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Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward s Best Diver Ever? Oct 11, 2024

Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière

When Christopher Ward announced the C60 Trident Lumière a few weeks back, the emphasis-errr-the spotlight was put on using massive Globolight lume plots on the dial. Twelve individually molded lume-infused ceramic monoliths promised to glow like cartoon uranium studded the dial per hour. A dial they claimed cost them 4x the usual. Well, after a few weeks with the watch, while I can attest that the lume is very impressive, it’s not why the C60 Trident Lumière is successful. Rather, it’s simply because it’s the best-executed tool/sports watch the brand has made, at least that I’ve encountered. The proportions are refined, the finishing is excellent, and the aesthetic is cohesive. The C60 Trident Lumière (just Lumière from here out), like the Twelve X and Bel Canto, demonstrates that Christopher Ward is a brand operating at a level on par with or higher than big Swiss brands at an equivalent price, a function of, but not a given, with their D2C model. However, it’s perhaps more impressive in some respects than those other two watches because it’s not a showpiece. No, the Lumière is a mainline, if higher priced, offering for the brand. Which is to say, it’s a sign of what they can do on a “normal” watch and, thus, perhaps, a sign of what to expect in the future. But, enough hyperbole. Clearly, I am a bit taken with the Lumière, so let’s get into the details. $2390 Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Case Grade 2 ...

Video Review – Tissot’s PRX Powermatic 80 Goes Exotic With A Forged Carbon Case And Dial Monochrome
Tissot s PRX Powermatic 80 Oct 11, 2024

Video Review – Tissot’s PRX Powermatic 80 Goes Exotic With A Forged Carbon Case And Dial

With the PRX collection, Tissot has found a proverbial sweet spot between style, mechanics and affordability. At the height of the boom of luxury sports watches, in comes Tissot with the PRX, offering tremendous value for money! In just a couple of short years, Tissot has made the PRX the hottest-selling watch in its collection, […]

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Mecaquartz Inter.bezel Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Mecaquartz Inter.bezel Geneva Oct 11, 2024

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Mecaquartz Inter.bezel

Geneva Watch Days is the year’s second-largest watch fair after Watches and Wonders. While the brands, except for a slight overlap, are different, many journalists love the show for several reasons. Unlike the ultra-controlled Watches and Wonders event, GWD allows us to sit directly with brands and their watches in a laid-back, casual atmosphere. Often, […] Visit Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Mecaquartz Inter.bezel to read the full article.

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph Fratello
Oct 11, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph

It has been a while since I published a Pre-Owned Spotlight, so I figured I should return in style with watches I can only dream of owning and wearing. Today, I will go on a pretend shopping spree for a pre-owned, high-end chronograph. Do I need a pre-owned, high-end chronograph? Yes, I do, thank you […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph to read the full article.

Brew Launches the New Metric Star Worn & Wound
Brew Launches Oct 10, 2024

Brew Launches the New Metric Star

Brew has had quite a run with their Metric chronograph. When the watch first appeared in the summer of 2021, it was clear that the brand had a hit on their hands, but it’s grown into what I think could fairly be called full fledged phenomenon status. Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer has found nearly endless ways to change up the look of the watch with different dial colors and coatings to the case and bracelet, and an automatic version was released last year that could prove to be a jumping off point for a slew of new more complicated Metrics. Through all of these releases, the Metric has become something of a calling card in indie and microbrand watch circles. It’s kind of the ultimate approachable insider’s watch – wearing one immediately makes it clear that you are part of the enthusiast world, and not just wearing a watch to tell the time (or time an espresso shot).  The latest Metric, released just in time for Windup New York City, is the Metric Star, which is meant to evoke a more refined aesthetic, according to the brand. The new Metric Star has a gold tone dial with a brushed, sunray finish, and accents in red and blue. The outer scale for chronograph seconds is particularly clever, with a blue section highlighted against the remainder of the scale in red in the proper place for that perfect espresso shot. It’s another very nicely executed dial from Brew. This one in particular, I think, gives off a classic 70s sports watch energy. It’s the gold dial, clea...

Hands-On: the Hamilton Ardmore Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet dropped their 23mm “Mini Oct 10, 2024

Hands-On: the Hamilton Ardmore

While much of the focus when discussing Hamilton’s history centers on World War II (for good reason), the brand was making waves within its repertoire decades earlier. In the mid-1930s, the country was in the throes of economic recovery after the Wall Street Crash of 1929. Initiatives like the Social Security Act and the Works Progress Administration, created in 1935, began to reflect a positive return to some stability.  The same year, Hamilton Watch Company – then based out of Lancaster, Pennsylvania – offered a new design to the public: a handsome, fully gold watch called the “Ardmore.” This watch was manufactured for only three years and included a 14K gold case, domed crystal, and curved case design. Newspaper ads from the time show the Ardmore typically priced at $100 – steep enough, given the overall context of the Great Depression, which spanned the entirety of the 1930s. Perhaps this accounted for the Ardmore’s relatively short run. While most would agree we are seeing a trend towards smaller watches in the past few years, the last year alone has seemed to hasten the move towards the teenytiny. Timothee Chalamet is the current face of the Itty Bitty Watch Committee with his various elegant Cartiers, but brands are also driving forces in this movement. Audemars Piguet dropped their 23mm “Mini Oaks” in May of this year in various shades of gold. Cartier released the Tank Louis Mini in April. Similarly, Hamilton’s newest addition to their America...

The Latest Atelier Wen Perception is a Rare Non-Collab from the Brand Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Oct 10, 2024

The Latest Atelier Wen Perception is a Rare Non-Collab from the Brand

Atelier Wen is launching a new version of their popular Perception integrated bracelet sports watch, now bearing the “Millesime” label. This is a limited edition release, but unlike  many recent releases from their past, they’ve decided to forego any kind of associated collaboration with an outside brand, instead choosing to focus on fulfilling specific desires from their dedicated client base. Many of the updates that you see on this watch are a reflection of the watch community, very much in line with recent limited releases from other enthusiast focused brands that depend on customer feedback.  This new Millesime edition will be part of a community driven yearly release for Atelier Wen, and its name even represents the ideology of kinship or closeness, again prioritizing feedback from watch enthusiasts to design the watch. Some of the main community driven transformations that have been implemented on this watch include a purple dial that went through 3-4 testing rounds to find the perfect hue, as well as a full grade 5 titanium construction for both the case and bracelet.  In addition to this regular titanium version, a special release full Tantalum variant will be awarded to 3 random customers as a lucky draw contest. You may be expecting the regular version, but you could open the box to find you’ve been awarded the upgraded (and much, much heavier) Tantalum version, Willy Wonka syle! Atelier Wen has been teasing a tantalum Perception for some time, showin...

Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years of Patrimony with Ora ïto Edition SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years Oct 10, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years of Patrimony with Ora ïto Edition

Vacheron Constantin is marking the 20th anniversary of its vintage-inspired line of dress watches with a limited edition conceived by French designer Ora Ito (whose studio is known as Ora ïto). The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora ïto is all about “Simplexity”, Mr Ito’s preferred design philosophy: a simple appearance that belies complexity. Although the Patrimony looks like a simple, conventional model at first glance, the dial incorporates additional details visible only upon close inspection, such as the wave-like concentric pattern that decorate its surface. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the “Holy Trinity” in Swiss watchmaking, and the Patrimony Ora ïto demonstrates why. It is a simple watch, showing just the time and date, yet presented with an intricately detailed dial and excellent in-house movement. Moreover, the Patrimony Self-Winding model is based on the ref. 6187 of 1957 but the design still feels current and avoids seeming like a vintage remake. The Patrimony Ora ïto costs US$35,300, which is fair value all things considered. It’s a small run of 100 watches with an appealing, unique dial design and it retails for less than a regular production Patek Philippe Calatrava. Simplexity The intricately patterned dial is gilded brass and stamped with a concentric patterns that’s meant to evoke ripples on the water. The pattern starts at the centre and continues to the periphery, with a subtle break to form th...

Introducing – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Porsche Panamericana Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Oct 10, 2024

Introducing – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Porsche Panamericana

TAG Heuer, Porsche, and the Carrera Panamericana are the names that strike a chord with many, whether they’re motorsport or watch enthusiasts. The rich history connecting these three continues to unfold, and this year brings an exciting new chapter. TAG Heuer has just revealed the limited edition Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Porsche Panamericana, celebrating the […]

Kurono Tokyo Special Projects Réserve de March ‘Sensu N.O.S.’ Adds The Brands First Power Reserve Indicator Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Special Projects Réserve de Oct 9, 2024

Kurono Tokyo Special Projects Réserve de March ‘Sensu N.O.S.’ Adds The Brands First Power Reserve Indicator

The last few years have been good for enthusiasts of classically designed, complicated watches. Historically the purview of the exorbitantly wealthy, the complicated dress watch has become increasingly democratized in recent years, thanks in no small part to brands like Kurono Tokyo. That impactful role was rewarded with ardent fervor with new releases selling out near-instantaneously. Recently, secondhand availability and the introduction of various anti-flipping techniques have made getting your hand on one of Hajime Asaoka’s affordable creations far easier. But that sense of ease may well renege with the brand’s latest offering, the Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche ‘Sensu N.O.S.’ The signature feature of the new Réserve de Marche (and the complication from which it borrows its name) is the power reserve indicator found between the nine and ten o’clock positions, a first for Kurono Tokyo. This function is made possible thanks to the new old stock Cal. 9134 movements from Citizen. True to form for Kurono Tokyo, that movement has been reworked here; not only to meet Kurono Tokyo’s internal timekeeping standards, but also to remove the movement’s date function, though the 24-hour secondary hour display at six o’clock remains. What results is a classically beautiful, and undeniably well-executed take on a classic complication. Of course, given the inherent limitations created by the use of NOS movements, the Sensu N.O.S. will be “very limited,”...

Hands-On With The New Jacques Bianchi JB200 Maxi Dial Fratello
Oct 9, 2024

Hands-On With The New Jacques Bianchi JB200 Maxi Dial

Jacques Bianchi has quickly found a place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts who love the brand’s history and timepieces. With numerous notable releases, the brand has stood out more than once in the past three years. The first ones that come to mind are, without a doubt, the models with illustrations on the dial. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Jacques Bianchi JB200 Maxi Dial to read the full article.

Auction: Space-Flown Watches From a Rolex GMT-Master to Omega Speedmasters SJX Watches
Bulova chronograph worn Oct 9, 2024

Auction: Space-Flown Watches From a Rolex GMT-Master to Omega Speedmasters

Ahead of the international watch auction season that kicks off in a few weeks, Boston-based RR Auction has opened an online auction that will interest those hunting especially rare, space-flown watches. Simply titled Space, the auction is focused primarily on space memorabilia, and includes three space-flown wristwatches that warrant a closer look, including a French astronaut’s Speedmaster that spent almost six hours in space. Known for its sales focused on historical memorabilia, particularly those relating to space exploration, RR Auction has notched up several notable watch sales in the past, including a Bulova chronograph worn on the Moon that sold for almost US$1.6 million in 2015. We round up highlights from the upcoming sale, which closes October 24, 2024. The catalogue and bidding are available online. Lot 6286 – Rolex GMT-Master II flown on Apollo 14 by Edgar Mitchell  First up is the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 1675 worn by astronaut Edgar Mitchell on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Enhancing its appeal, the watch has tangible provenance: actually be seen in archival footage recording prior to take-off and in onboard footage taken during the mission. While the GMT-Master II was not uncommon among astronauts of that period – it was conceived as a watch for pilots after all – few actually made it to space. This example is only the second lunar Rolex to be sold publicly, after Ron Evans’s GMT-Master II worn on Apollo 17, whic...

Daily Drivers: The Louis Vuitton Tambour And Escale Models Fratello
Louis Vuitton Tambour Oct 8, 2024

Daily Drivers: The Louis Vuitton Tambour And Escale Models

Louis Vuitton isn’t exactly a newcomer to the luxury watch market. However, in the past two years, we’ve seen a marked change in the fashion house and how it approaches watches. In 2023, the Tambour reappeared in its most competitive form yet, bearing an integrated bracelet. Earlier this year, a slightly dressier Escale rejoined the […] Visit Daily Drivers: The Louis Vuitton Tambour And Escale Models to read the full article.

H. Moser Gets a Little Whimsical with the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds “Midnight Blue” Worn & Wound
H. Moser Gets Oct 8, 2024

H. Moser Gets a Little Whimsical with the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds “Midnight Blue”

As watch enthusiasts, we all have our weaknesses. Some feature or design quirk that makes very little sense in practical terms, but nonetheless appeals to us in ways we can barely even describe. Something that falls into this category for me is the “useless” complication. A complication that doesn’t really have much of a functional purpose at all, but is just sort of there was a watchmaking flex. There are all kinds of strange time telling displays that fall into this category, plus your deeply anachronistic complications like integrated barometers, scales that tell you the age of the moon, or perhaps even a secular perpetual calendar that no one alive today will be able to see in action. Then there are retrograde displays, which while not exactly “useless” certainly tend to be, well, maybe unnecessary is a better word. But the vaguely violent snapping back of a hand when it reaches the end of the display has a real pull.  If that sort of mechanical violence is up your alley, Moser’s latest is a watch you should investigate. The Pioneer Retrograde Seconds in Midnight Blue takes your normal, everyday Pioneer and juices it significantly with a retrograde seconds display at the bottom of the dial that snaps back every thirty seconds. That makes for a dial with a lot of action, with a second hand moving twice as fast as it normally would, interrupted every thirty seconds with an action that, to witness it, you’d surely think would cause some manner of mechanical...

Video Review – The Christopher Ward Bel Canto Salmon Brings the Chiming Complication to the Masses Monochrome
Christopher Ward Bel Canto Salmon Brings Oct 8, 2024

Video Review – The Christopher Ward Bel Canto Salmon Brings the Chiming Complication to the Masses

Alright, I must admit that we’re a bit late to the party when it comes to reviewing the Christopher Ward Bel Canto… A fault confessed is half-redressed. But we’ll do better, as it’s time for us to have a closer look at this watch. The Bel Canto has been under MONOCHROME’s radar ever since its […]

Modern Hues for the Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase SJX Watches
Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase Sporting Oct 8, 2024

Modern Hues for the Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase

Sporting a moon phase and retro design, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase was originally available only in sedate colours of cream and silver. Now the line grows to include dials in Havana beige, anthracite and green. Unlike the recent Conquest Heritage, the Moonphase is not a vintage reproduction, rather it’s a blend of vintage and modern, with the bonus of a solid 18k gold medallion on the back portraying a caravel on a blue sea of grand feu enamel. Initial thoughts The new trio are essentially cosmetic expansions of the line, so they do not seem novel on paper, but they are a smartly conceived products. The traditional styling is preserved, but with dials in striking colours that are now much more lively. The earlier versions were arguably too plain, with the subdued colours seeming a bit flat. The Flagship Heritage Moonphase is one of Longines’ more expensive models at US$3,050, but nonetheless is decent value considering the top-of-the-line ETA movement and solid-gold, hand-enamelled emblem on the back. Calendar complications Like most models in Longines’ vintage-based Heritage Classic collection, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase is compact by modern standards, but larger than the actual vintage originals. The stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm in thickness. Simple in style, the case has a domed, polished bezel and short, angular lugs with polished chamfers along their edges. Slightly domed to mimic a vintage watch, the dial is finished with a ...

Introducing – A New Trio of Amber-Toned H. Moser & Cie. Exclusive Creations for Bucherer Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Exclusive Creations Oct 8, 2024

Introducing – A New Trio of Amber-Toned H. Moser & Cie. Exclusive Creations for Bucherer

Bucherer, the world’s leading watch retailer that recently made headlines when Rolex acquired it, has a history of collaborating with various brands to release exclusive editions, and one signature colour has consistently defined these partnerships – Bucherer Blue. Last year, this theme was showcased in a trio of remarkable timepieces from H. Moser & Cie […]