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Brew Introduces the Metric Manual Wind, with a Swiss Mechanical Movement Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces May 7, 2025

Brew Introduces the Metric Manual Wind, with a Swiss Mechanical Movement

Brew’s recent history has been marked by two distinct types of watch releases. There are watches that incorporate bold design choices in established platforms, like Metric Star from last year, or our own Metric Chrono Regulator Lumint limited edition. These releases take a distinct point of view on something that is familiar to Brew fans and watch enthusiasts more generally, and keep moving the ball forward on the brand’s aesthetic. Then there are more substantial releases that feel like the brand is reaching for greater heights, toying with an incrementally higher end product. The titanium Metric Chronograph, for instance, seemed like clear upping of the ante in terms of what the Brew catalog might look like across price points, materials, and so on, as did the first mechanical Metric when it was released almost two years ago. If you’ve spent any time at all talking to Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer, you know that he has no shortage of ideas for the brand, so there’s a prevailing sense that a watch that completely changes how we think about Brew could come at any time. The new Metric Manual Wind might be the best example of that to date.  It makes sense, in a lot of ways, that a watch like this would come now. This year marks Brew’s tenth anniversary, and the last decade (especially the last five years or so) have seen the brand grow at a clip rarely seen in the microbrand space. The Metric has proven to be a particularly durable platform for design innovations a...

Oris ProPilot X Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oris May 7, 2025

Oris ProPilot X Review

Oris made its first watch for aviators, the original Big Crown, way back in 1938, and has been riffing on that ingenious and influential design ever since. Defined by its large, fluted winding crown, designed to be easy for gripping by hands in heavy pilot’s gloves, the modern Big Crown series - now hosting both the sporty ProPilot and the more elegant Pointer Date versions - has become a major pillar in the independent Swiss brand’s portfolio. In 2020, Oris launched Caliber 400, the first in-house automatic movement it had made in its long history, and debuted it inside a watch from its popular Aquis diver collection, following that model up with a Caliber 400 version of its other divers’ model, the retro-styled Divers 65. In 2022, Oris finally arranged a marriage of its oldest watch model - well, a descendant of it, anyway - with its newest exclusive movement, introducing the first ProPilot X Caliber 400 models. Now available in a variety of avant-garde colorways, these siblings to the larger, Sellita-equipped ProPilot Date models (example below) offer a marked contrast with their predecessors while still carrying the banner of the overall series. Here is what you should know about the ProPilot X, where it came from, and what Oris has been doing with it lately. The Brand History: Paul Cattin and Georges Christian founded Oris in 1904, in Hölstein, Switzerland, naming the company after a nearby brook. A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly...

Tudor GMT: The Definitive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor May 7, 2025

Tudor GMT: The Definitive Guide

Before getting into the Tudor GMT guide, let's put the brand in context as it has experienced a modern renaissance since returning to the U.S. market with the Black Bay collection in 2012. No longer content as a mere sub-brand of big brother Rolex, Tudor has established itself as the de facto tool-watch manufacture in the $3,000 - $6,000 range, and the brand has done it through methodical progress within the Black Bay, Ranger, and Pelagos families. In 2016, Tudor introduced its first in-house caliber in the North Flag, and has since established its own movements throughout the portfolio, allowing Tudor to approach complications in its own way. Arguably, the most important of these complications is the GMT, which made its modern debut with the Black Bay GMT in 2018. But that’s not the first GMT from the brand.  In this guide, we’ll take a look back at what may be some forgotten GMT references from Tudor, and make our way through the now expansive modern stable of watches boasting the reference today. A GMT is likely the most most requested feature when it comes to new Tudor watches, and lately, the brand has been particularly in tune with those demands - to the point where it’s safe to say that we’re spoiled for choice these days. That’s not to say that there aren’t a few expressions of this complication that we’d still like to see, and I’ll outline some of those in closing.  The GMT complication is a foundational part of the Rolex identity, with Tudor'...

New Additions To The Hamilton Diving Collection: Khaki Navy Frogman Auto And Khaki Navy Scuba Auto GMT Models Fratello
Hamilton Diving Collection Khaki Navy May 7, 2025

New Additions To The Hamilton Diving Collection: Khaki Navy Frogman Auto And Khaki Navy Scuba Auto GMT Models

Fans of dive watches were already spoiled for choice with Hamilton. The brand’s Khaki Navy collection features almost any style, from daily divers to hardcore, oversized submersible watches. From today onward, you will have even more to choose from. Hamilton introduces the 43mm Khaki Navy Scuba Auto GMT in two versions (steel and bronze) and […] Visit New Additions To The Hamilton Diving Collection: Khaki Navy Frogman Auto And Khaki Navy Scuba Auto GMT Models to read the full article.

In-Depth: The Breguet Sympathique, From the Duc d’Orléans to “No. 1” SJX Watches
Breguet Sympathique From May 7, 2025

In-Depth: The Breguet Sympathique, From the Duc d’Orléans to “No. 1”

This spring, one of the most important horological creations of the late twentieth century returns to public view. As part of The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI taking place on May 10 and 11, Phillips will offer the Breguet Sympathique No. 1, the first of twenty exceptional clocks commissioned by Breguet in the early 1990s. The primary creator of this landmark clock was none other than Francois-Paul Journe, then a young watchmaker. Completed in 1991 for the Art of Breguet auction, No. 1 is not just the prototype of the modern Sympathique series, it is its most ambitious. The example, paired with a tourbillon wristwatch, is equipped with a constant-force remontoir and moonphase display. In retrospect, it reads as a mechanical manifesto, foreshadowing Journe’s later independent work. More than a highlight of its upcoming sale, No. 1 represents a rare continuation of one of watchmaking’s great inventions, a direct link to Abraham-Louis Breguet himself. Detail of Sympathique no. 1 Of Breguet’s many breakthroughs, from the tourbillon to the pare-chute, none captured the marriage of mechanical brilliance and poetic vision quite like the Pendule Sympathique. Designed to wind, set, and regulate a paired watch automatically, it embodied a new kind of horological harmony: a master timekeeper caring for its portable counterpart. The calendar on Sympathique no. 1 By the late 20th century, these clocks had become near-mythical. Only a handful were ever built, most housed in royal coll...

Auctions: Lavish and Exotic Cartier Clocks at Phillips SJX Watches
Cartier Clocks May 6, 2025

Auctions: Lavish and Exotic Cartier Clocks at Phillips

The spring auction season kicks off in less than a week, and while there are many interesting lots worthy of attention, there are a few museum-grade Cartier clocks at Phillips that demand a close look. All made between 1905 and 1940, the most exceptional pieces date to the roaring twenties when Cartier was synonymous with Art Deco extravagance. The lots are spread across two auctions – Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which takes place on May 10th and 11th, and Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX which takes place from May 23rd to May 25th. There are three important mystery clocks hitting the block, the most significant being portico clock No. 3, along with a handful of artfully engraved jade desk clocks. Rounding out the bunch, an amusing prism clock should keep things interesting for those bidding with smaller budgets. An introduction to Cartier mystery clocks In the early twentieth century, Cartier was on top of the world. England’s King Edward VII had just granted the firm a royal warrant, calling Cartier the “jeweler of kings” and, perhaps more significantly, “The king of jewelers.” But the Parisian firm wasn’t coasting on this praise, and shortly thereafter stunned the world with a clock with hands that appeared to float in space. This ‘mysterious’ effect was achieved by attaching the hands to rotating glass plates that were driven from the edge. The first such clock was the Modèle A, which debuted in 1912. A Cartier Modèle A. Image – Phillips The mystery cl...

SJX Podcast: Geneva Auctions and Breguet SJX Watches
Christopher Ward s daring new C12 May 6, 2025

SJX Podcast: Geneva Auctions and Breguet

In the fifth episode of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX discuss Breguet’s reinterpretation of the Souscription for its 250th anniversary, as well as a historical Breguet watches coming up for auction, including a pocket watch owned by Napoleon’s sister and the very first modern-day Breguet Sympathique. We also talk about Christopher Ward’s daring new C12 with a dial-side balance wheel and very contemporary styling, before moving on to antique watches and clocks coming up for auction at Phillips in Geneva, including a 1920s portico mystery clock by Cartier in the “orientalist” style. Lastly, we finish some complicated pocket watches, which are perhaps under appreciated but magnificent examples of horology. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Casio Duro Teddy Baldassarre
Casio May 6, 2025

Casio Duro

It’s hard to believe that the Casio Duro has only been around for fourteen years now. It’s been at the top of affordable dive watch lists so consistently that you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s been around since the 1990s, but indeed, 2011 was the year this S-tier value proposition hit the market. The original Casio Duro MDV-106 was a mainstream success, selling over 600,000 units in its first decade. And it’s not difficult to understand why the Duro was such a crowd pleaser: a 200-meter water-resistant diver with classically appealing sporty aesthetics and genuinely nice finishing for $50 at launch (it retails for a still downright cheap $70 these days). Even for a brand known for its affordable classics, Casio had a genuine hit on its hands and over the years added colorways like blue and gilt, along with several bezel variants. And, of course, being the watch of choice for Bill Gates certainly didn’t hurt in cementing the Duro’s reputation. Here, I will get into why the Casio Duro is one of the best affordable offerings of the last quarter of a decade. And since I know you’re thinking it, I’ll begin by addressing the smaller 38mm model and why I don’t categorize it as a “True Casio Duro.” Casio Duro Case and Wearability: Let’s start with the admission of the fact that the 44mm case size is the Casio Duro’s biggest flaw. Yes, it’s a pretty big diver measuring 44.2mm wide and 12.1mm thick with a lug-to-lug height of 48.5mm. To address the no...

Dennison Announce a New Collaboration with Patek Philippe Expert John Reardon and Collectability Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Dennison May 6, 2025

Dennison Announce a New Collaboration with Patek Philippe Expert John Reardon and Collectability

It’s no secret that watch design over the past few years has been heavily inspired by timepieces of yesteryear. Many brands today are looking to integrate 20th-century principles into more modern and technologically advanced packages, typically in an effort to keep alive the vintage aesthetics collectors know and love. On the heels of their recent relaunch, Dennison has just announced their first watch collaboration ever, pairing up with horological icon John Reardon and his website Collectability to produce a new model for the brand’s contemporary catalog.  Last year, Dennison, a brand established in 1874, was revived with the help of its new A.L.D. Collection. This assortment of watches was designed by acclaimed watch designer Emmanuel Gueit, known for designing the new Rolex 1908, the Harry Winston Z1, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. Dennison offers these vintage-inspired timepieces for $490 for sunray dials and $690 for stone dials. Their rather affordable prices helped the A.L.D. Collection catch the attention of many collectors, including John Reardon’s.  For those unfamiliar with his experience, Reardon has been a notable figure in horology for years. He began his career at Sotheby’s in 1997, later joining Henri Stern Watch Agency, then spending five years as the International Head of Watches at Christie’s Watches. In 2019, he left Christie’s to launch the Collectability website, aiming to educate collectors on all things Patek Philippe, in add...

Tudor Adds a Limited Edition Carbon Chrono to the Black Bay Chronograph Lineup Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer whose parent company LVMH May 5, 2025

Tudor Adds a Limited Edition Carbon Chrono to the Black Bay Chronograph Lineup

We haven’t remarked on it all that much to this point, but one of the inescapable trends at Watches & Wonders this year was a prevalence of F1 cars making appearances around the Palexpo. If you scheduled your meetings in a particular way, you could easily be convinced that every Swiss watch brand has some level of involvement with the sport. IWC, of course, is just beginning to promote F1, the highly anticipated new film starring Brad Pitt that is said to feature many, many IWC watches. And then there’s TAG Heuer, whose parent company LVMH secured a lucrative deal with Formula 1 in the off season, and returned TAG to official timekeeper status. Both of these brands had actual cars in their booths, and they drew a crowd all week. Then there’s H. Moser, a sponsor of the Alpine team, and finally (please get in the comments if I’ve missed one) there’s Tudor, a partner of the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls Formula One Team, who took this weekend’s Miami GP as an opportunity to release their latest racing themed watch, the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 25.  The limited edition (2,025 numbered examples) chronograph is modeled on the Black Bay Chronograph, a watch that has seen its share of special editions in the last few years, mostly by way of colored dials. This watch is a little different as it represents an all new case material for the Black Bay Chrono, making use of Tudor’s carbon fiber composite material (the caseback, pushers, and crown are all rendered in titanium ...

Reintegration: Unexpected Integrated Bracelet Releases from Meistersinger and Chronoswiss Worn & Wound
Breguet Classique Souscription single-handed watches May 5, 2025

Reintegration: Unexpected Integrated Bracelet Releases from Meistersinger and Chronoswiss

If you had told me a few years ago that we’d still be seeing integrated bracelet watch designs in 2025, I probably would not have believed you. But what felt like many a passing fad that would take a year or two to cycle through has not only stuck around, but has become a bit of a necessity for brands seeking to expand their customer base. As such, at Watches & Wonders 2025 integrated bracelets were still prevalent, even getting a spotlight thanks to the Rolex Land Dweller. Well, I’m not here to cover that well-trodden territory again. Rather, I wanted to look at two integrated launches that have gone a little under the radar, both of which lean towards the quirky side of things: the Meistersinger Kaenos and the Chronoswiss Pulse One. The Meistersinger Kaenos Meistersinger is a curious brand. They are at once an oddball, focusing almost exclusively on single-handed watches, which is a very strange thing to do, and yet somewhat conservative, with designs that lean towards the traditional. Admittedly, as is evidenced by the recently released Breguet Classique Souscription, single-handed watches are rooted in 18th century design, but I digress. Well, the Kaenos mixes things up for the brand, introducing a far sportier and more aggressive style into their line. Measuring 40mm in diameter and 11.2mm in height, at a glance, the design of the Kaenos’ case and bracelet is pretty typical of integrated bracelet designs. A sort of barrel-shaped case with a circular dial opening...

Hands-On: Taking The MeisterSinger Kaenos Open Date Out For A Spin Fratello
MeisterSinger May 5, 2025

Hands-On: Taking The MeisterSinger Kaenos Open Date Out For A Spin

Not too long ago, I expressed my frustration regarding watch brands with no history of releasing sports watches with an integrated bracelet. I wrote, amongst other things, “get a grip on your FOMO, embrace the JOMO, and do something else, please.” As I expected, I was not alone in my opinion. One of the comments […] Visit Hands-On: Taking The MeisterSinger Kaenos Open Date Out For A Spin to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Polished Steel Bezel Versions of the Doxa Sub 200 Monochrome
Doxa Sub 200 When Doxa May 5, 2025

Introducing – The New Polished Steel Bezel Versions of the Doxa Sub 200

When Doxa entered the dive watch market, it consulted with experts in the field, including Jacques Cousteau, to understand the needs of professional divers. The Sub 300 of 1967 enjoys a special place in the underwater pantheon of iconic divers, but beyond its formidable underwater capabilities, it became instantly recognisable thanks to its bright orange […]

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 Polished Steel Bezel Collection Fratello
Doxa Sub 200 Polished Steel May 5, 2025

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 Polished Steel Bezel Collection

Doxa is back again with a new release! This time, it’s a variant of the popular and affordable Sub 200. The 42mm dive watch was released in 2019 at Baselworld, and this is the first major update. While in Geneva for Watches and Wonders and the adjacent events, we visited Doxa on our first night. […] Visit Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 Polished Steel Bezel Collection to read the full article.

Up Close: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT Twenty-twenty-four May 5, 2025

Up Close: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT

Twenty-twenty-four marked Greubel Forsey’s 20th anniversary, an occasion celebrated with their first chronograph, the Nano Foudroyante EWT. The brand’s tenth “Fundamental Innovation” since its founding back in 2004, the Nano Foudroyante EWT is a flyback chronograph with a flying tourbillon and an independent micro-scale lightning seconds, or foudroyante. The watch marked many firsts for the brand. Aside from being Greubel Forsey’s first chronograph, it is also the brand’s first flying tourbillon – noteworthy given its longtime focus on the tourbillon. Despite its extensive history with innovative tourbillon constructions, Greubel Forsey (GF) has never before created one with a flying architecture.  Initial thoughts GF is often regarded as among the best in terms of innovative watchmaking and artisanal chronometry. Although the brand’s styling can arguably be too much at times, its core signature of high-end horology is unmistakable and defined by exemplary finishing and exceptional engineering in equal measure.  The Nano Foudroyante EWT is interesting in many respects. The combination of complications is unusual, even for GF, and feels like more of a conceptual platform to present the “nano” sized lightning seconds (that runs independently of the chronograph). That said, execution is typical of GF in being high quality all around. It is a perfect example of the brand’s approach to watchmaking, both decoration- and engineering-wise. Similarly, the ae...

Highlights: A Noteworthy Trio from Patek Philippe at Phillips Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe May 5, 2025

Highlights: A Noteworthy Trio from Patek Philippe at Phillips Geneva

It’s hard to stand out among the 194-lots in Phillips’ incredibly stacked upcoming Geneva auction. The catalog for The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI includes 36 watches from Patek Philippe, including familiar favorites like two ref. 5004s and an assortment of Nautilus and Aquanaut models. But three watches are especially notable. These highlights are led by the only known ref. 3448 “Padellone” perpetual calendar in pink gold – a retailer-signed example at that – followed by a landmark “grand” complication with Hagmann case, and a Beyer-signed pocket watch with a portal to Amsterdam on the back. The auction takes place on May 10 and 11, 2025, at the Hotel President Wilson in Geneva. Lot 74: Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in pink gold signed “Freccero” Patek Philippe’s first self-winding perpetual calendar, the ref. 3448, was primarily made in yellow or white gold – except for this example in pink gold. Besides the unique case material, this also has a retailer-signed dial. In addition, it’s in incredible condition, with unpolished lugs so sharp you could almost cut yourself. It features an early “second series” dial, with a “dimple” style minute track and engraved, enamelled markings. Even though the movement inside the ref. 3448 is one of the most beautiful automatics ever made, the cal. 27-460 doesn’t skate by on pretty privilege. The calibre is technically competent: with a free-sprung gyro-max balance, overcoil hairspring, and Patek Philippe’...

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces May 3, 2025

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”

In what’s become an annual tradition, Tudor has just revealed a special edition on the eve of the Miami Grand Prix. But unlike last year’s Black Bay “Chameleon” destined only for the drivers of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB), the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” is a commercially available timepiece – but in a limited edition of 2,025 pieces. The Carbon 25 is presented in a carbon composite case, matched with a domed dial in the colours of the VCARB team that also sports carbon composite registers. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of Tudor in general, mainly because of the strong value proposition the brand offers in all its watches. The chronographs stand out as amongst the best in the price segment. However, the chronographs in steel are a little thick and weighty; the Carbon 25 definitely reduces the weight substantially, and it’s also a tiny bit slimmer. Tudor already has a carbon-case chronograph in the collection (that is actually thinner), but the Carbon 25 has a more appealing case design that retains all of the elements of the steel case, including the bevelled lugs. One detail that stands out are the carbon composite inserts in between the lugs that give the strap a better visual integration into the case. I like the Carbon 25, enough that I would buy one, but the watch is the most expensive chronographs in the Tudor catalogue, with a price of US$7,575. It is still well priced compared to the competition, but priced substantially more expensi...