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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip WatchAdvice
Christopher Ward Baltic Formex May 17, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip

In the early 2020s, everything was shut down, and the watch industry was beginning to stagnate. However, one man decided to make the most of it and designed a watch – inadvertently helping facilitate the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ But do we believe the hype? Let’s find out! What We Like: A non-serious yet refined design Remarkable build quality for the price point Comfortable and well-made strap with plenty of adjustment What We Don’t: Insufficient lume Crown and pushers are extremely fiddly to use Low power reserve Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 7/10 The 2020s post-pandemic watch industry has been coined by some to be the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ for those unfamiliar with the term, a microbrand is a watch brand, usually independently owned and run by a small team – Essentially a small business or a start-up, in normal terms. What the ‘Rise of the Microbrand’ indicates is the massive resurgence of interest in said start-ups, which in turn has been a contributing factor to saving modern horology as we know it. That might sound like hyperbole to you, but I don’t say it lightly – Microbrands like Christopher Ward, Baltic, Formex and Farer have grown to the point where they now challenge household names. Every day, promising young microbrands such as HZ Watches also come out of the woodwork, transforming the industry in small but significant ways. We even got the chance to look at a HZ wat...

Trying Not To Get Confused Or Frustrated By The Platinum Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Fratello
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Have you May 17, 2024

Trying Not To Get Confused Or Frustrated By The Platinum Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind

Have you heard of people wearing watches without winding and/or setting them correctly? I have. And to a point, I get why they can’t be bothered to make sure the mechanical watches on their wrists display the time correctly more than twice a day. The correct time is everywhere - on your phone, in your […] Visit Trying Not To Get Confused Or Frustrated By The Platinum Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind to read the full article.

HYT Reinvents Itself with the T1 Collection Worn & Wound
HYT May 16, 2024

HYT Reinvents Itself with the T1 Collection

It’s hard to relaunch a brand. We’ve seen it over and over in the watch industry: brands, in an attempt to reinvigorate themselves, gain more traction in the market, and adapt to changing times, will sometimes make a decision to completely rethink their philosophy, aesthetic, and core models. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t, and there are varying levels of intensity in how fully relaunched a brand will actually go. Sometimes the shift is drastic, with new logos, new ideas, new price points, and completely new watches. And sometimes it’s more subtle, representing a small but noticeable and important tweak that fundamentally changes something about the presentation. HYT, a high end Swiss brand that has been through its fair share of tumult recently, debuted a new collection recently that we got a chance to look at during Watches & Wonders week, and it struck me as one of the smartest recalibrations we’ve seen from a brand in a long time.  If you know HYT at all, you know them for their unique time telling system that involves moving liquid around the dial through a pair of bellows that expand and contract throughout the day. There is quite literally nothing else like it on the market, and the watches have always had a half futuristic, half steam-punk vibe to them. There is real horological ingenuity at the heart of HYT, but the watches, in the past, have often been dominated by literally showing you the mechanism in a way that was, to put it bluntly, a bi...

Are Timex Watches Good? All You Need to Know About the Quintessential Teddy Baldassarre
Timex May 16, 2024

Are Timex Watches Good? All You Need to Know About the Quintessential

For many watch enthusiasts, a Timex watch is the gateway drug for a lifetime of timepiece obsession - understated in presentation, stylish in execution, affordable in price and found just about everywhere. And what Timex may lack in prestige and collectibility, especially when stacked up against industry titans from Switzerland, it makes up for in the key role it has played in "democratizing" timekeeping and for its undeniable influence on Americana and popular culture. How much do you really know about Timex? Read on for a brief but detailed historical perspective, followed by a showcase of the most noteworthy Timex watches on the market now. Waterbury Clock Company Factory  From its earliest days, the company now known as Timex was dedicated to making timekeepers that were both reliable and affordable to the masses. Based in Waterbury, Connecticut, and originally a division of brass manufacturer Benedict & Burnham, the Waterbury Clock Company opened its doors in 1854, specializing in the mass production of clocks with gears and wheels made of brass. By 1857, when it was incorporated as an independent business, Waterbury Clock Company was churning out millions of clocks, all priced lower than their European competitors, with parts sourced from manufacturers in Connecticut’s Naugatuck Valley region, which became known at the time as the “Switzerland of America;” Waterbury, the largest city in the region, still carries the nickname “Brass City.” The manufacturi...

Celebrating 30 Years of the Lothar Schmidt Era at Sinn HQ Worn & Wound
Sinn HQ May 16, 2024

Celebrating 30 Years of the Lothar Schmidt Era at Sinn HQ

On an unusually warm day in early March, I was invited to visit Sinn headquarters in Frankfurt, Germany. Sinn had prepared a special program including a special exhibition showcasing their technologies over the last 30 years in the main foyer. This was followed by a factory tour, and finally seeing their latest collection.  Most of us are familiar with the origins of Sinn, which all started with Helmut Sinn, who was a flight instructor, and former World War II pilot. The company’s core business under his ownership was the manufacturing of navigation clocks and pilot chronographs. In 1994, certified engineer Lothar Schmidt acquired the company from Helmut Sinn and renamed it to “Sinn Spezialuhren GmbH”. Lothar Schmidt worked previously with IWC, and was also part of Günter Blümlein’s team to revive A. Lange & Söhne. This year Sinn is celebrating 30 years since Mr. Schmidt acquired the company. It was a coincidence that the day of my visit, news broke regarding Mr. Schmidt’s succession plans. He will celebrate his 75th birthday this year, and announced plans to create a foundation similar to the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, that will own the shares of Sinn and its subsidiary companies. Mr. Schmidt also owns the SUG casemaker in the famous watchmaking village of Glashütte.  Over the past 30 years, Mr. Schmidt, with his engineering background, has developed several technologies for Sinn watches. In 1995, Ar-Dehumidifying Technology was introduced for the first tim...

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Worn & Wound
May 16, 2024

[Video] Windup Meet & Greet: Paulin is a Brand Built for the Design-Minded

While at the recent 2024 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, we had the chance to spend some time with fine folks at Paulin, a watch brand out of Glasgow, UK. Their booth was a hit with Windup attendees and they made the fair the launch moment for their new collaboration with the type design house OH no. Check out this Windup Meet & Greet video to learn more. The post [Video] Windup Meet & Greet: Paulin is a Brand Built for the Design-Minded appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds SJX Watches
Seiko 5 May 16, 2024

Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds

A budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino is robust and usually priced well below US$300, making it a good option for the entry-level or budget-minded watch enthusiast. Now, the Japanese watch brand added the Bambino 38 “Small Seconds” to the range. Offered in steel or a gold-plated finish, the new Bambino combines a compact case with a retro-style dial featuring a sub-seconds at six and Roman numerals.  Initial thoughts The Bambino in its many variants is a compelling value proposition, marrying good quality with an attractive design. It’s the Orient equivalent of the Seiko 5. The model’s past designs have been a mixed bag, while the new Small Seconds is a more cohesive design.  The latest iterations, particularly the silver dial, evoke 1930s watches with the railroad minute track and alternating baton-and-Roman markers. However, as is sometimes the case with vintage-inspired designs, this would benefit from revamping of the date, which is practical but gets in the way of the design. Aside from the cosmetic enhancements, the Bambino 38 Small Seconds retains the same in-house calibre as its predecessors, a no-frills movement that isn’t pretty but adequate given the model’s affordability. Retailing for US$344 for the steel models and a $24 hike for the gold-plated version, these remain commendable value propositions. A vintage-inspired dress watch The latest addition to the Bambino collection incorporates many elements from the existing models. It inhe...

Introducing: The Kurono Tokyo 2024 Anniversary Reiwa - Its Final Spot In The Limelight Fratello
Kurono Tokyo 2024 Anniversary Reiwa - May 16, 2024

Introducing: The Kurono Tokyo 2024 Anniversary Reiwa - Its Final Spot In The Limelight

Many of us have developed a deep affinity for Hajime Asaoka’s Art Deco lines and Kurono Tokyo sub-brand. The story of Asaoka-san creating Kurono Tokyo so that he could actually wear one of his designs never gets old. In fact, it only deepens my respect for him. Now the Japanese watchmaker closes a circle by […] Visit Introducing: The Kurono Tokyo 2024 Anniversary Reiwa - Its Final Spot In The Limelight to read the full article.

First Look – The Titanium Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Air Glaciers Special Edition Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Air May 16, 2024

First Look – The Titanium Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Air Glaciers Special Edition

Hamilton’s background in military and pilot’s watches is irrefutable thanks to its collaboration with the U.S. Armed Forces during both World Wars. With the advent of aviation, Hamilton took to the skies, providing pioneering pilots and U.S. Airmail pilots with watches from 1918. Developing partnerships with military squadrons, air rescue services and aerobatic pilots over […]

The Rise Of The Independents: Changing The Horological Landscape Fratello
May 15, 2024

The Rise Of The Independents: Changing The Horological Landscape

Contrary to what the title of this article may imply, independent watchmaking is nothing new. Most of the big names have been around for decades, and even their more meteoric rise is several years underway now. Still, the rise of independents is an indicator of a changing landscape that reaches beyond this handful of exalted […] Visit The Rise Of The Independents: Changing The Horological Landscape to read the full article.

First Look – The New Generation of H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green & Purple Haze Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre May 15, 2024

First Look – The New Generation of H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green & Purple Haze

Moser’s Streamliner collection, a luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet, made a resounding entry in 2020 with a Flyback Chronograph. Unlike many luxury sports watches on the market, which vie for attention with their formulaic solutions, Moser’s design was fresh, verging on sensual thanks to its sleek, aerodynamic personality. A few months later, Moser unveiled […]

Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement Fratello
Yema May 15, 2024

Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement

It’s been a little over a year since Yema introduced the current version of the Navygraf. The brand’s Navygraf II from the late ’70s inspired the design of the watch. I had a chance to go hands-on with the Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT last year, and I liked it. The updated style and the great […] Visit Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Lex’s Picks From Certina, King Seiko, And Oris Fratello
Certina King Seiko May 15, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Lex’s Picks From Certina, King Seiko, And Oris

Full disclosure: I dreaded the moment I had to choose the best watches under €2,500. Why? Because what I think is under €2,500 isn’t anymore. Yeah, go ahead. Call me out of touch and old-fashioned; it’s okay. But you know what? My list of three watches came to me in a wave of clarity. And […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Lex’s Picks From Certina, King Seiko, And Oris to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound
Marathon May 14, 2024

Marathon’s SAR Lineup Outfits the Inaugural Windup in a Bay

In 2022, a group of intrepid watch enthusiast divers began a grand tradition of coupling a Lake Michigan dive adventure with the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, affectionately referred to as Windup in a Lake. Well, this tradition has expanded to include more divers and, as of last week, a new destination. Monterey Bay was the inaugural location of the first Windup in a Bay, part of our Windup Watch Fair San Francisco festivities. Best of all, our friends at Marathon were interested in participating in this adventure as well.  When search and rescue pros from around the world reach for a mission timer, the Canada-based watchmaker Marathon has been a go-to solution for over 80 years. So, their SAR collection-short for, you guessed it, Search and Rescue-was an ideal catalog to outfit the team of pros who gathered to kick off this dip into the Pacific. For this trip to the iconic Monterey Bay, we paired a slew of dive-rated Marathon SARs with five watch enthusiasts, each with major diving chops. Here’s our official photo recap and impressions from the team. The post Marathon’s SAR Lineup Outfits the Inaugural Windup in a Bay appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing – The New Generation of Sinn 903 St Navigation Chronograph Monochrome
Sinn 903 St Navigation Chronograph May 14, 2024

Introducing – The New Generation of Sinn 903 St Navigation Chronograph

Founded in 1961 by former military pilot Helmut Sinn, German watchmaker Sinn has long specialised in crafting rugged sports, pilot and instrument watches with a slightly military approach. Emblematic models such as the U1 (and its smaller version, the U50), the Bundeswehr chronograph or the 103 St have forged the brand’s reputation. There’s another watch […]

Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin May 14, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) unveils a new variant of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer, combining an 18k pink gold case with a domed, champlevé enamel dial depicting the Northern Hemisphere. As the name suggests, the watch features the cal. 948 with an orbital tourbillon that makes one revolution around the dial every 24 hours in conjunction with the map, mimicking the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. Dial and case metal aside, this is essentially identical to the white gold model released in 2022. Initial thoughts As a variation of an existing model, the new Calibre 948 World-Timer is not entirely novel. It is, however, a quite a stunning watch in both looks and mechanics. The enamel dial and pink gold case are in a rich, complementary colours, resulting in a striking, warm aesthetics. And the level of execution is also high, reflecting JLC’s strength in industrial-artisanal high-end watchmaking. That said, with JLC’s storied history, it feels like the brand can do more than rehash this tourbillon (and the Duometre as it did at Watches & Wonders earlier this year). The watchmaker’s watchmaker Sometimes known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, JLC historically supplied calibres to many notable brands, including the “Holy Trinity” of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. As a result, it has a manufacturing know-how that is amongst the best in the mid- to high-end of Swiss watchmaking. A world-time orbital tourbillon with a champlev...

Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Chrono Regatta And Hamburg Edition Hafen Fratello
May 14, 2024

Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Chrono Regatta And Hamburg Edition Hafen

As I become more familiar with the Sternglas brand, I realize I’m not as tuned in as I thought. On the face of it, this Hamburg-based watch brand embraces minimalism in its designs, albeit with considered bursts of color. The popular Hamburg line of watches, named after the brand’s home city, is a typical example. […] Visit Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Chrono Regatta And Hamburg Edition Hafen to read the full article.

Introducing – The Charming Old-School Spirit of the MeisterSinger Enamel Edition 1Z Monochrome
MeisterSinger May 14, 2024

Introducing – The Charming Old-School Spirit of the MeisterSinger Enamel Edition 1Z

With their single-handed time indications, MeisterSinger’s watches offer a refreshing change of tempo to our fast-paced, hyper-accurate digital universe. Founded in 2001 by Manfred Brassler in Münster, Germany, the brand’s inspiration resides in the sundials and single-hand tower clocks of the Middle Ages. In 2004, the brand released a special watch called the Edition 1Z. […]

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Worn & Wound
Fortis S-41 Stratoliner May 13, 2024

[VIDEO] Windup Meet & Greet: The Fortis S-41 Stratoliner is Designed and Tested for Space Tourism

While at the recent 2024 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, we had the chance to catch up with Andreas Bentele of the Fortis team. When asked what his favorite Fortis watch was at the fair, he immediately responded with his love for the Fortis S-41 Stratoliner. The Stratoliner is the first watch designed and tested for the burgeoning space tourism industry! Check out this Windup Meet & Greet video to learn more. The post [VIDEO] Windup Meet & Greet: The Fortis S-41 Stratoliner is Designed and Tested for Space Tourism appeared first on Worn & Wound.

21 Movie Watches Spotted on the Big Screen, from 1961 to Now Teddy Baldassarre
May 13, 2024

21 Movie Watches Spotted on the Big Screen, from 1961 to Now

Spotting watches in the movies, on the wrists of our favorite actors and often playing key roles in the film’s storyline, has long been a favorite pastime of cinephiles and watch enthusiasts, and identifying these movie watches, often all the way down to each model’s individual reference number, has become an online cottage industry. This compilation in no way purports to be the most comprehensive list of every movie watch ever, but it does spotlight some of the most noteworthy watches worn on the silver screen over the past sixty-plus years. Without further ado, let’s grab our popcorn and dive into the list, in more or less chronological order from the 1960s to today.  And for those of you who want even more about movies and watches, make sure to check out our original feature length masterclass Watches of Cinema here. Hosted by watch and movie obsessive (not to mention our VP of Content here at Teddy) Danny Milton, this 10-part video walks through the history of watches in movies decade by decade. So, grab some popcorn and get comfortable because this is gonna be fun. Blue Hawaii (1961) - Hamilton Ventura American watchmaker Hamilton introduced the first electronic watch, the Ventura, to great fanfare in 1957, and the watch would go on to even greater fame when it was worn by Elvis Presley - at the time, arguably the biggest star in the world - in the 1961 film, Blue Hawaii. The watch, which is believed to be Presley’s own rather than a prop (see above), ...