Hodinkee
Introducing: The Spanish Watchmaker Bringing Back The Detent Escapement
Raúl Pagès' third creation features his first in-house movement.
Results for Spring Detent Escapement
654 articles · 56 videos found · page 5 of 24
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Does Spring Drive Have An Escapement?
Of mainsprings and Tri-synchro regulators.
Deployant
Rare Watches: Voutilainen Détente Escapement Tourbillon Wristwatch
Rare Watches: Voutilainen Détente Escapement Tourbillon Wristwatch
Monochrome
First Look – The Breguet Experimentale 1, With 10Hz High-Frequency Tourbillon and Constant Force Magnetic Escapement
Innovation spirit and inventiveness have always been part of Breguet, specifically as its founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, was responsible from 1775 onwards for so many of the watchmaking innovations of that era: the tourbillon, the perpétuelle watch, the natural escapement, the constant-force escapement, the shock absorber, the Breguet balance-spring with its terminal curve, the gong-spring… In […]
![[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/03/GS_WW_UFA_021WR.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber
2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...
Video
My Watch Story: Technology And The Spring Drive by Garrett Kinsman
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement
Still one of the most notable escapements on the market despite being a decade old, Girard-Perregaux’s double-wheel-and-silicon invention has been refined and revived as the Neo Constant Escapement. Presented in titanium, the Neo Constant Escapement is the regular production version of the unique piece in pink gold made for Only Watch 2023. The calibre within is a revamped version of the 2013 original that retains the double escape wheels and integral constant-force silicon spring, but reworked for superior function. Initial thoughts Technically impressive as it was, the original Constant Escapement (CE) from 2013 was huge (the case was 48 mm, making size one of its biggest weakness) and expensive at the time. That explains in part why the CE never caught on despite its merits. The revamp of the watch ten years old has substantially improved both its function and form. The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is both more wearable and more appealing in terms of design. Besides being more compact, the “Neo” case also has a highly domed crystal that shows off the escapement well. Even though the watch has been redesigned, the NCE retains the hyper-modern, open-worked styling of the original. The look certainly suits the inventive nature of the silicon escapement, though it would have been interesting if GP experimented with a classical design, which might have been ironic but attractive for the contrasting ideas. Equally important is the fact that the retail price remains ab...
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Neo Constant Escapement for Only Watch
A regular participant at Only Watch, Girard-Perregaux’s latest contribution to the charity auction, the Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch 2023, revisits its innovation constant-force escapement. Girard-Perregaux (GP) first unveiled the Constant Escapement in 2013 as a wristwatch with a unique, dual-wheel escapement with an integral constant-force silicon buckling spring. Ten years on, the Neo Constant Escapement is a revamp of the original concept with incremental upgrades to the mechanism. Initial thoughts The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is not merely a rehash of the original. It is a technical evolution, which is at the very minimum an academically interesting take on an already exotic escapement. The Only Watch edition is dressed in predominantly monochromatic livery with a pink gold case and movement bridges – even the mainspring barrels are pink gold. The generous use of pink gold might be polarising, which arguably makes it perfectly suited as a one-off piece that will inevitably find an eager buyer at the auction. In the grander scheme of things however, the NCE Only Watch edition marks the beginning of GP reviving the Constant Escapement. Even by today’s standards of advanced tech in watchmaking, the Constant Escapement is an integrated design comprised of a double-wheel escapement with a remontoir spring, making it an escapement unlike any other. It is admirable that the escapement has been updated for better reliability, while preserving its original ide...
Hodinkee
Auctions: Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Phillips and Antiquorum To Kick Things Off (Part 1 – Live Pics)
It's time for the Geneva spring auctions, the premier venue for the biggest lots and market-moving of the year. That's not to say that Hong Kong (which sometimes comes before, sometimes comes after) or New York (which rounds out the season) won't have some big lots. Sotheby's Hong Kong sale—which we covered previously—closed over the weekend with an absolutely shockingly great result, with massive prices across the board, especially for Cartier. The final total? $52,875,885, which is more than $10 million more than their previous record. That included nearly $2 million for a Cartier London Crash, a London Tank Asymétrique went for a surprising $750,000, a skeletonized Baignoire was just shy of a million at $950,000—and that doesn't count things like the $1.96 million for a unique single-button Patek chronograph or $1.5 million for a "John Player Special" Daytona. Truly remarkable results up and down the board. Which begs the question: do we think crazy prices for Cartier will hold long term, or was it just excitement for the first round of sales? 8.3%Checking in on other results, the Monaco Legend Auction sold 98.3% of their lots for a total sale of €26,471,620. Big results include €2.106 million for a unique doré-dialed Patek 3448 “Padellone,” €1.88 million for a unique platinum Daytona, and €390,000 for a Cartier Tank à Guichets that was made in 3 examples, among some other solid results. A unique woven Cartier ”Pebble” did massively well as at...
Worn & Wound
The New Spring Novelties from Fears
Revitalized British brand Fears has made many waves in the independent watch scene in recent years, building a reputation for vintage-inspired timepieces backed by robust modern movements, and distinctive styling. Now, Fears releases their first pilot’s watch in 180 years, alongside several new iterations of core collection favorites, to round out a slate of spring novelties that carry forward the brand’s unique combination of youthful innovation and historically-informed aesthetics. First up is that pilot watch: named for Filton, a town neighboring the Fears homebase in Bristol that is largely known for housing the Bristol Aeroplane Company, the Brunswick 40 ‘Filton’ aims to capture the adventurous air of early flight. The Filton sits within the Brunswick 40mm line, giving it a recognizable silhouette with added functionality. A date window at 6 o’clock introduces the complication to the Brunswick 40 line for the first time, and the Raven Black sunburst and Squadron Green gradient dial options evoke cockpit instruments and vintage squadron markings respectively. Applied numerals in Fears’ own ‘Edwin’ typeface hammer home the early 20th century look, with a triangle at 12 o’clock to promote legibility. Sword pipette hands round out the design, with the Raven Black model also featuring a “ghost effect’ with matching black hand centers. Inside, a reliable La Joux-Perret G100 automatic caliber movement beats away, and the Filton sits on a chocolate brown...
Hodinkee
Auctions: Previewing The Monaco Legend Spring 2026 Auction
The spring auction season is sneaking up on us quickly. Things start early with Sotheby's Hong Kong auction (with its boatload of Cartier), which slightly edges Monaco Legend Group out of the gate, as their auction starts one day earlier. But on April 25 and 26, MLG will open its spring auction, which promises to be one of the more interesting and eclectic vintage-focused auctions of the season. That's not to say it's all vintage, of course. The auction starts out with a Bamford-modified blackout GMT (that the Parmegiani family behind the auction house seems to have an affinity for), an RM35-02 Nadal, a Journe Répétition Souveraine, and more Patek 5004s than you can shake a stick at, keeping things spicy. Lot 109 – F.P. Journe Répétition Souveraine – €400,000 to €800,000. There are 288 lots, and while the top lots sometimes feel a bit obvious to call out (mostly because everyone likely peers longingly at these watches and wishes they could bid), it's incredibly important to examine what is driving the top end of the market. And if you weren't paying close enough attention, you'd potentially miss the top lot. While it might look like a Rolex Daytona, like the ref. 116509 with a Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial and different indices, this is a whole different ballgame. Lot 78 of the auction is one of the "FAB 4" Daytonas, four unique platinum Zenith Daytonas, each executed with a hardstone dial (one with turquoise, one with lapis lazuli, two mother-of-pearl) made at...
Video
Devil's in the Details | Grand Seiko SBGA413 Spring Drive
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After Years Of Asking, Grand Seiko Finally Brings Us a Smaller Spring Drive Diver
Grand Seiko answers years of requests with two smaller Evolution 9 divers at 40.8mm, powered by the new Spring Drive 9RB1 U.F.A. in titanium.
Fratello
Grand Seiko Unveils The New Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Divers
During Watches and Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko unveiled two Spring Drive models powered by a new Ultra Fine Accuracy (U.F.A.) caliber. This year, the Japanese watchmaker follows up on last year’s novelties with two Ushio 300 divers housing a new U.F.A. movement. On top of that, the brand finally granted enthusiasts’ wishes for a smaller […] Visit Grand Seiko Unveils The New Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Divers to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko finally has a Spring Drive dive watch in a 40.8mm size
We have a new pair of 40.8mm Spring Drive Dive Watches: the new Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio Diver 300 SLGB023 and SLGB025.The post Grand Seiko finally has a Spring Drive dive watch in a 40.8mm size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Fears unveils its 2026 Spring novelties, including their first pilots’ watch in 180 years
Fears unveils its latest 2026 releases, including a range of pastel dials, a jump hour, and their first pilots' watch in 180 yearsThe post Fears unveils its 2026 Spring novelties, including their first pilots’ watch in 180 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Cleguer Debuts The Inspiration One With A Proprietary “Innate” Escapement
The French watchmaker launches a debut built around a reworked natural escapement.
Video
Tissot Ballade Chronometer Certified Powermatic 80 Silicon Balance Spring Rolex Datejust Alternative
Worn & Wound
The Art of Packing for Venice: A Spring Grand Tour with Venezianico
The post The Art of Packing for Venice: A Spring Grand Tour with Venezianico appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Introducing: The Spring Drive-Powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058
The first thing that popped up in my head when laying eyes on the Spring Drive-powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 was “Root Beer.” The colors, shapes, and vibe make me think of that famous GMT watch made by The Crown. It’s a good thing this watch is designed for the U.S. […] Visit Introducing: The Spring Drive-Powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 to read the full article.
Fratello
Breaking News: Breguet Creates The First Contact-Free Escapement By Using Magnets
Breguet continues to surprise us in its 250th year. In the spirit of the brand’s name-giver, it now presents a world first. Breguet has utilized magnets to create the first 10Hz tourbillon with a magnetic escapement, which delivers constant force to the balance, and has incorporated it into the Expérimentale 1. This fast-beating tourbillon in […] Visit Breaking News: Breguet Creates The First Contact-Free Escapement By Using Magnets to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Micro-Brand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore
Now taking place for the fifth year, Spring Sprang Sprung (SPRG) is a watch fair dedicated to micro-brands that is returning in November 2025. The Singapore-based event has grown from 22 brands in its first year to over 50 this year. The exhibitor list this year includes brands from Finland to China, as well as names that are arguably more established than the average micro-brand, like Oris, Nivada Grenchen, and Seagull. Also exhibiting are accessories makers, like Yi Leather that makes watch straps. As with past iterations of SPRG, the event includes workshops, one of which is a leather working class led by the proprietor of Yi Leather. SPRG’s founders are a pair integral to the micro-brand scene in Singapore: Sugiharto Kusumadi, who was a pioneering retailer of micro-brands when he founded Red Army Watches in 2004, and Yong Keong Lim, who owns Feynman Timekeepers and runs retailer BIG Time. According to its founders, SPRG aims to be “casual, welcoming, and inclusive… [bringing] together independent watch brand owners, enthusiasts, and newcomers to share their passion for horology”. SPRG takes place at the at the National Design Centre, November 8-9, 2025, from 11 am-7 pm. National Design Centre 111 Middle Road Singapore 188969 The event is open to the public, but workshops are ticketed with tickets available at Spring-sprang-sprung.com.
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Urban Jürgensen’s Revival, Breguet’s Birthday, and Spring Auctions
SJX and Brandon Moore kick off episode seven of the SJX Podcast with the relaunch of Urban Jürgensen (which includes a tribute to Derek Pratt’s Oval pocket watch), discussing why this time might be different. Also on the docket is a recap of the spring auction season, which included strong prices for hot names in independent watchmaking, though other “indies” waned, surprising showings from hitherto esoteric clocks and pocket watches, and some value buys with out-of-vogue timepieces. Lastly, we recap Breguet’s 250th anniversary launches so far, which have met with a mixed reception, but demonstrate signs of life for a historic brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Video
SKIP Rolex! Try Grand Seiko, Oris & Nomos: Spring Drive, Diver, and Orion Review
Worn & Wound
3 Standouts from the 2025 Backbone Media Spring Showcase: Matador, YETI, and Dickies
Backbone Media has been a long-standing force in the outdoor industry as a media and PR agency representing some of our most beloved gear brands. Each spring they bring a curated selection of their clients to NYC for their 2025 Spring Showcase. The Worn & Wound team was on the scene and here are 3 standout products that we’re especially excited about. Matador Pops and Locks with the BetaLock Locking Carabiner Carabiners and locks are both crucial pieces in our travel kit, but carrying a lock is a drag. Locks are cumbersome, slow to use, uninspired, and often get left behind as a result. The BetaLock was designed to address exactly that. It works perfectly as a rugged EDC carabiner and transitions seamlessly into a theft-deterring lock at the turn of a key. It’s lightweight and multi-use so there’s no reason to leave it behind. The most effective lock is the one you have on-hand when you need it. We were also pretty pumped on Matador’s GlobeRider35, which is designed and built for world travel, loaded with organization and an outdoor inspired carry harness for all-day comfort. This pack paired perfectly with the BetaLock. YETI Gets Tough as Iron with Cast Iron Skillets At the show, we also learned that YETI-known for its coolers, insulated water bottles, and more recently, its backpacks and travel bags-has come out with their own line of cast iron skillets as well. Ranging in size from 8 to 14 inches in diameter, these pans come polished and preseasoned, creatin...
Worn & Wound
Shop The Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook
Spring in the City. Bursting through the gloomy greys and harsh weather of the winter, we finally get greens and all the pastel colors that announce warmth is just around the corner. That feeling, that vibe, doesn’t only extend to our clothing but also touches the accessories, home decor and everyday carry that play a supporting role in our lives. Find the perfect pieces to match this seasonal transition below. Spring in the City. Bursting through the gloomy greys and harsh weather of the winter, we finally get greens and all the pastel colors that announce warmth is just around the corner. That feeling, that vibe, doesn’t only extend to our clothing but also touches the accessories, home decor and everyday carry that play a supporting role in our lives. Find the perfect pieces to match this seasonal transition below. The post Shop The Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Inside Grand Seiko: The Evolution Of The Spring Drive Movement
In the second installment of our three-part series in partnership with Grand Seiko, we go in-depth on the history and development of Spring Drive.
Hodinkee
Inside Grand Seiko: The Spring Drive Comes To Life
It takes the skill of many craftsman to produce a complete Grand Seiko Spring Drive – and the dedication and talent of a single watchmaker.
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook 2025
Spring in the City. Bursting through the gloomy greys and harsh weather of the winter, we finally get greens and all the pastel colors that announce warmth is just around the corner. That feeling, that vibe, doesn’t only extend to our clothing but also touches the accessories, home decor and everyday carry that play a supporting role in our lives. Find the perfect pieces to match this seasonal transition below. The post Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook 2025 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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