Deployant
New: Louis Erard Excellence Guilloché Main - artisanal hand guilloché
Presenting the Louis Erard Excellence Guilloché Main. Limited edition, checkerboard hand guilloché dial at a modest price. Press Release with commentary.
4,652 articles · 35 videos found · page 5 of 157
Deployant
Presenting the Louis Erard Excellence Guilloché Main. Limited edition, checkerboard hand guilloché dial at a modest price. Press Release with commentary.
SJX Watches
Best known for its chronographs – especially those for pilots – Breitling now ups the ante with the Premier Heritage Duograph that just debuted alongside the new Premier Heritage chronographs. Named after the split-seconds chronograph Breitling produced during the 1940s to 1960s, the new Duograph is Breitling’s first hand-wind split-seconds chronograph powered by an in-house movement (it did debut an automatic split-seconds in 2017). Capable of recording two elapsed time simultaneously, the split-seconds is also known as a rattrapante – derived from rattraper, French for “catching up” – and was historically Breitling’s most expensive chronograph due to its complexity. The B15 in the new Duograph simplifies the construction of the split-seconds mechanism, resulting in a surprisingly affordable watch, with the steel version priced at about US$10,000. Initial thoughts Alongside with the release of the Datora, the Duograph is proof that Breitling is inching towards more complicated chronographs, which is a good progression for the brand. Breitling has a storied history with chronographs, and the Duograph is a return to form for a brand that was put back on track when Georges Kern, previously the chief executive of IWC, took the wheel and set a new course. The Premier B15 Duograph in steel It is important to note that the rattrapante is a challenge to do well, which is why few brands offer the complication, while those that do often price the split-seconds ...
Quill & Pad
Why do high-end watches cost so much? To answer the question, Ian Skellern looked at low production numbers and high complexity, but the cost he focuses on here is hand-finishing, because unlike low production numbers and high complexity, ultra-high-level hand-finishing is not easy to appreciate.
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Learn a craft while staying at home and keep safe during these troublesome times of COVID-19. This episode - hand roasting your own coffee.
SJX Watches
Conceived by Louis Cartier for Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont – who needed a timepiece he could read while flying – the Santos-Dumont wristwatch has the double distinction of being the first wristwatch designed from the ground up for men, as well as being the first-ever pilot’s wristwatch. Now the 116-year old design has just received its latest update with the unveiling of the hand-wound Santos-Dumont XL. [Update March 23, 2020: Read the review with more photos.] Though the Brazilian pilot got his wristwatch in 1904, it took until 1911 for the design to be sold commercially. For most of the century since, the Santos-Dumont has been part of the Cartier line-up in one way or another, often in gold but occasionally in platinum (one outlier was a special edition in titanium with a skeleton movement). The most recent facelift happened in 2005, which saw the unveiling of a version without a bezel. The new Santos-Dumont XL in all three versions Last year, the latest generation of the Santos-Dumont was unveiled, marking a return to the iconic Santos bezel with screws. For the first time ever, the Santos-Dumont was available in steel as well as two-tone steel and gold, along with the traditional all-gold case. However, the new Santos-Dumont didn’t quite receive unanimous acclaim because it was quartz movement. But now Cartier has finally unveiled what was long expected, the mechanical Santos-Dumont XL. Measuring 46.6 by 33.9 mm and just 7.5 mm in height...
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Hodinkee
A local Japanese legend gives way to a stunning hand-made dial that's unlike anything else you can wear on your wrist.
Deployant
We pick six hand-wound watches from our archives and proposed them to you for your collection. From Lange, VC, Grand Seiko, Chopard, Voutilainen and HYT.
SJX Watches
Following on the launch of its automatic chronograph a year ago, London-based Farer recently released a new collection of hand-wound chronographs, which are fairly unusual in this price category where automatic chronographs dominate. This time around, it’s more than just a new line as the watches are the official timers of the 2019 Bernina Gran Turismo, a classic car race across the Bernina Pass in the Swiss Alps. Three standard models and one limited edition make up the new Chronograph Hand-Wound line, though the limited edition quickly sold out, and all carry the brand’s DNA with distinctive, retro designs and bold colours. Though the individual models share the same house style, each is detailed differently, right down to the size of the hour numerals, something Farer does for all its mode lines. All models share the same, cushion-shaped stainless steel case measuring 41mm by 12.9mm (and 43mm lug-to-lug). It’s rated to 100m and fitted with a domed sapphire crystal. For contrast, the front and sides are brushed with a polished steel exhibition back, and the pushers are also polished. The knurled crown is steel but topped with a bronze insert embossed with Farer’s logo, a standard feature on all hand-wound Farer watches; other models have a solid bronze crown. Let’s take a closer look at what differentiates the Bernina, Cresta and Moritz chronographs. Bernina Named after the Bernina Gran Turismo – a hillclimbing race around St Moritz for classic cars – ...
SJX Watches
The Hand Made 1 is a watch “95%” produced “using only hand-operated tools”, requiring some 6,000 hours, according to Greubel Forsey. That’s equivalent to three years of work, largely performed by a special team of watchmakers assembled by Greubel Forsey specifically for this project, along with independent specialists who produce certain components. Functionally, the Hand Made 1 is a straightforward timepiece – it shows the time, hours, minutes and seconds, and is equipped with a one-tourbillon regulator. The movement is made up of 272 parts, which is within the usual range for such a movement. The complexity of the watch comes from how it is made – by hand or by hand-operated tools – which is why only two to three examples will be produced per year. The genesis for the Hand Made 1 is the department within Greubel Forsey that produces prototypes, which are essentially one-off, hand-made watches. The same production techniques are applied to the Hand Made 1, except that they are taken to a far higher level, in order to create components that are produced with the same techniques as prototypes but to the same fit and finish as standard Greubel Forsey movements. So each screw is made on a manual lathe, and can take up to eight hours to complete. The case components are milled on a pantograph lathe, essentially a manually operated CNC machine that requires the operator to guide the cutting tool to by hand. And even the balance spring is rolled by a manua...
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In this week's Throwback Sunday article, we take a look at some of the finest two-hand watches that are available in the market right now.
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For inquiries and collabs: twtw.mike@gmail.com
Time+Tide
Nothing hints at the story of a watch more than its imperfections. A thick scratch across the crystal. Could that have been a motorbike accident? A near miss with a switchblade? A ding in the otherwise smooth shoulder of the lugs. Something mundane like an errant car door, or seatbelt buckle on a plane? A … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Holding the last watch that walked on the moon in your hand (and quietly freaking out) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Snobs are back to their regularly scheduled programming this week! Today, they take some time to speculate about the current "stainless steel crisis" some brands are experiencing while talking about second hand market support. Plus, in case you were wondering, Mike would totally break vegan and eat Kaz in a survival situation.
Deployant
Opinion: Traditional Artisan's approach to Hand Finishing and Chronometry. Do they converge, and if so, where is the common denominator?
Time+Tide
It was a complete leap of faith. @thetiafox, Melbourne-based citizen of the world and curator of all things immaculate looks like she was born to work with a watch like the Cartier Hypnose. So, with a little help from Cartier Australia, we arranged for the two to meet. The plan was simple: get them together … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Leading Melbourne-based style influencer tries her hand at shooting and reviewing the Cartier Hypnose, with surprising results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
SIHH 2015: IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “75th Anniversary”
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The Rolex Submariner is supposed to be the ultimate, rugged tool watch, a piece of engineering meant to dive to the bottom of the ocean and take a beating. So why does the two-tone Rolex Submariner Serti with sapphire...
WristBuzz
It looks like nothing else on the wrist. Crown at 9, red locking bezel button, 55mm case. Here is the history, the modern 1200M, and the honest question of whether the Ploprof is for you.
WristBuzz
Every enthusiast has this thought at 3am: sell everything, keep one watch, be done. If we had to pick, we would pick an Explorer 39mm. But is it still a collection with one, and can any watch enthusiast actually sit still?
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Casio Duro costs a fraction of the Seiko Turtle, but price does not tell the whole story. We tested both to decide which one we would keep.
WristBuzz
You slow down outside the door. You check your outfit. You wonder if you belong. Why does it still feel like this in 2026, and what could the industry actually do about it? A serious question, delivered with love.
WristBuzz
Diameter is the number every product page leads with. Lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist.
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WristBuzz
Six new Compax references, a proper in-house Calibre UG-200 chronograph, and the panda + reverse-panda "Nina / Evil Nina" pairing everyone actually wanted. 39.5mm, column wheel, vertical clutch, 72-hour reserve. From CHF 15,500.
WristBuzz
Every Rolex conversation starts here. The digit count decodes the era: acrylic vs sapphire, aluminium vs Cerachrom, tritium vs Chromalight, cal. 15xx vs 3135 vs 3235. And why 5-digit is the sweet spot most collectors quietly agree on.
WristBuzz
TAG Heuer softens the 39mm Carrera Chronograph Glassbox with a warm sand dial and anthracite azuré counters. Cal. TH20-00, 80-hour reserve, only 500 pieces for European boutiques.
WristBuzz
From a $130 flag-themed G-Shock all the way up to a Ulysse Nardin Stars & Stripes tourbillon, here are seven watches that hit the red-white-blue brief without looking like a costume. Steel Pepsi Rolexes, Hamilton Pan Europ blue, Omega Commander's Watch.
WristBuzz
Why Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin sit alone at the top of the hierarchy. A buyer's guide to the most-cited label in collecting.
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