Deployant
Reviewed: two new Breitling Chronomats in collaboration with Erling Haaland
Breitling collaborates Erling Haaland, on 2 new Chronomat models: Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 in steel and platinum, and the Chronomat B01 42 in red gold.
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Deployant
Breitling collaborates Erling Haaland, on 2 new Chronomat models: Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 in steel and platinum, and the Chronomat B01 42 in red gold.
Monochrome
The romantically inclined would agree that there is a certain intimacy in winding a watch by hand, a moment of pause, intention, and awareness of time’s passage. With its latest creation, the 1902 Réserve de Marche, Schwarz Etienne invites that quiet ritual back into the rhythm of daily life, full of automatically performed actions. Building […]
Worn & Wound
It’s been about two weeks since the 2025 Ride to Conquer Cancer charity bike ride took place in Ontario, Canada, along a 200km course beginning in Toronto, winding through Mississauga and Hamilton, and finally ending in Niagara-on-the-Lake. For those who may not be familiar, the Ride hosts thousands of participants raising millions of dollars each year to fund groundbreaking cancer research and patient care via the Princess Margaret Cancer Foundation. This year, I, along with six riders from the watch community, participated in the ride as part of team Can’t Stop Won’t Stop. The team was led by friend of Worn & Wound and now 10-year ride participant (yes, 10 years!), Matt Smith-Johnson. I’m proud to report that Can’t Stop Won’t Stop raised over $51,000 CAD (roughly $37,000 USD), and the Ride as a whole broke records by raising $20.61 million CAD. Ryan Baillie, Associate Vice President for the Ride to Conquer Cancer, and Matt and Evan from team Can’t Stop Won’t Stop, announcing the winner of the Cannondale bike. Team Can’t Stop Won’t Stop at the start of Day 2. Thank You to Our Partners Hitting this fundraising total wouldn’t have been possible without the support of several key partners, who we’re incredibly grateful for: – Boldr Supply Co. collaborated with us on the Boldr Conquer Limited Edition watch, created specifically for the Ride, with proceeds going directly to our team’s total. Leon, thank you for your time and effort on this project! ...
Monochrome
The year 1969 marked a before and after in watchmaking with the release of the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. Zenith’s El Primero calibre, a high-frequency integrated chronograph, was the first to cross the finish line. Initially used to power three models, the round A386, with its tri-colour counters, became the undisputed brand icon. In […]
Hodinkee
Brew's smallest watch ever packs an automatic movement and the brand's lovable design into a tiny 30mm case.
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Monochrome
The latest Peren Regia LE Dark follows recent models like the Regia X Automatic 39 Diver, but with a stripped-down aesthetic that’s very monochromatic and a bit futuristic. The diving bezel is sterile save for a white circle at 12 o’clock, and the white dial elements seem to almost float over the depths of the […]
SJX Watches
Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) stands among the most revered names in horology, celebrated for innovations that shaped modern watchmaking. While his tourbillon, self-winding mechanism, and anti-shock system are widely acknowledged, his work in astronomical timekeeping, particularly equation of time (EOT) watches, remain one of Breguet’s most intricate yet less-explored achievements. With 2025 marking the 250th anniversary of his birth, this guide offers the most comprehensive study of every known EOT timepiece made during his lifetime, including pocket watch no. 160 “Marie Antoinette”, expanding on our prior analysis of the complication (in parts I and II). No. 160 as pictured at the recent exhibition in London’s Science Museum. Image – Baruch Coutts Looking at the stars Breguet operated in an era where precision timekeeping was dictated by astronomy, and his workshop, positioned at the heart of Paris’s scientific and commercial networks, was uniquely placed to serve scientists, navigators, and royalty who required accurate solar and mean time readings. Rather than settling on a single method for displaying and correcting the EOT, he explored multiple mechanical solutions, refining some while revisiting earlier ideas when necessary. His approach does not follow a strictly linear evolution but instead reflects a dynamic cycle of innovation, mechanical experimentation, and adaptation. Breguet’s cam-driven system with feeler to indicate EOT, as found in pocke...
Monochrome
Maen, a relatively young brand from Sweden with Dutch roots, has combined two of its popular Manhattan models into a compact and sleek 37mm integrated sports watch that highlights the best of both collections. Based on consumer demand, the current Manhattan 37mm automatic has been slimmed down with an ultra-thin case and hand-wound calibre like […]
Monochrome
Omega releases a new sub-collection of its Seamaster Aqua Terra in 30mm cases with metal bracelets spread across 12 references. A classic all-rounder, the 30mm Aqua Terra models are powered by two new in-house automatic movements. Designed to fit the smaller case size, calibre 8750 and 8751 are the smallest and slimmest co-axial Master Chronometers […]
Monochrome
The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold adds a refined, luxurious reference to the brand’s Gravity Equal Force line. First introduced in 2019, the collection debuted with the groundbreaking Gravity Equal Force System 78, the world’s first automatic wristwatch with a stop-work declutch mechanism and Geneva cross inside the barrel, designed […]
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Fratello
Today, Omega introduces a new selection of Seamaster Aqua Terra watches for ladies. They feature a new 30mm case and an in-house-developed self-winding movement. Thus far, Omega’s smallest Aqua Terra measures 28mm but comes with a quartz movement. The self-winding Aqua Terra models used to be 34mm and larger. This new small Aqua Terra 30mm […] Visit Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 30mm With A New Movement to read the full article.
Fratello
The Omega Speedmaster is a great watch. That’s probably not a controversial statement. But is it a great first Swiss watch for those looking to start their way along the winding path of their horological journey? After some reflection on mine, I’d say it is. Let me explain why. The Omega Speedmaster is an icon. […] Visit I Should Have Bought A Speedmaster As My First Watch to read the full article.
Fratello
Ask me whatever you want; there are no secrets. Do you want to know where the movement is from? The automatic caliber 1031-1 was developed in collaboration with Chronode SA. Please come up with something a bit more original. The spring bar? Okay, the spring bar is made by IsoSwiss from 316L steel and attaches […] Visit Hands-On With The Pragma P1 – Perseverance: A 100% Swiss High-End Chronometer With High Morals to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A year ago, we covered a self-taught watchmaker who built his first piece by watch, Dewey Vicknair. Now the American gunsmith has completed his second watch, a regulator with a jump hour function that’s once again hand-made. He published a comprehensive photo essay detailing the steps in manufacturing the watch, which is a worthwhile read for anyone interested in a contemporary, yet fully manual watchmaking process. Initial thoughts The story of Mr. Vicknair is unlike most independent watchmakers. Now in his mid-fifties, he long ago built his reputation as a maker and restorer of firearms before turning to watchmaking. Self-taught, Mr. Vicknair is definitely a quick study; he adapted his metal-working skills to horology and produced his first watch swiftly. Even more interesting, perhaps, is the way he creates his own tooling. From a vertical drill press to various cutters and even custom tweezers for bending the hairspring overcoil, Mr. Vicknair seems able to build any tool to cater to his requirements. Artisanal watchmakers usually use restored vintage machines when making watches, but it is very rare that they develop the tools themselves. Mr. Vicknair’s extensive experience as a gunsmith gives him an excellent understanding of machinery that cannot simply be taught in watchmaking schools. His work is clearly that of a very talented mechanical craftsman who just happens to have mastered watchmaking – after having mastered gunsmithing. The watch itself is pre...
Worn & Wound
Ever since its introduction, the Formex Field Automatic has been a favorite of enthusiasts in search of a modern twist on the tried and true field watch. At the same time, it also felt a little like an outlier in the Formex collection. For a brand that has built a reputation on clever manufacturing innovations, the Field was remarkably simple and, for Formex, pretty subdued. That’s the nature, though, of a field watch, and at the end of the day, Formex’s version of it has always been a well made, if rudimentary, take on the genre. For the Field Automatic Gen 2, Formex has mostly stuck with what worked with the first Field, but upped the complexity of the dial and, as you’d expect, added some new colors to the collection. Available in three colors (Ice Blue, Coho Salmon, and Basalt Grey), the new dial design adds considerable depth and texture to the experience of the Formex Field. Each dial is constructed from two parts, a center section with a sunburst finish and a sloped minute track that gives the dial what the brand refers to as a “saucer-like” profile. Adding to the perception of depth on the new dials is an hour track positioned between the minute track and central section with a contrasting smooth texture and recessed, stenciled, lume filled numerals. Formex’s stated goal here is to create a three dimensional effect, something that we don’t normally associate with the typically “flat” dials of most field watches. The case is unchanged from the ...
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Fratello
Spring started strong for Nivada. The Swiss watch brand released two new models in its Chronosport line, expanding it to five watches. We were lucky enough to try both the automatic and the mecaquartz versions. In this review, I’ll go hands-on with the former, namely, the Chronosport Blue. But before we get into that, let […] Visit Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue to read the full article.
Monochrome
Since its return in its current form back in 2019, the Seiko 5 Sports collection has become an inescapable option when it comes to acquiring an accessible, robust, dive-inspired automatic watch from an established brand, even though Citizen is also hitting hard in this market. Today, we’ll be talking specifically about the most emblematic version of […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Oris made its first watch for aviators, the original Big Crown, way back in 1938, and has been riffing on that ingenious and influential design ever since. Defined by its large, fluted winding crown, designed to be easy for gripping by hands in heavy pilot’s gloves, the modern Big Crown series - now hosting both the sporty ProPilot and the more elegant Pointer Date versions - has become a major pillar in the independent Swiss brand’s portfolio. In 2020, Oris launched Caliber 400, the first in-house automatic movement it had made in its long history, and debuted it inside a watch from its popular Aquis diver collection, following that model up with a Caliber 400 version of its other divers’ model, the retro-styled Divers 65. In 2022, Oris finally arranged a marriage of its oldest watch model - well, a descendant of it, anyway - with its newest exclusive movement, introducing the first ProPilot X Caliber 400 models. Now available in a variety of avant-garde colorways, these siblings to the larger, Sellita-equipped ProPilot Date models (example below) offer a marked contrast with their predecessors while still carrying the banner of the overall series. Here is what you should know about the ProPilot X, where it came from, and what Oris has been doing with it lately. The Brand History: Paul Cattin and Georges Christian founded Oris in 1904, in Hölstein, Switzerland, naming the company after a nearby brook. A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly...
Monochrome
The Khaki Navy Scuba collection has long served as Hamilton‘s entry-level offering for dive-inspired timepieces, alongside the more rugged Frogman and BeLOWZERO models. Available in both quartz and automatic versions, the Scuba range has evolved over the years with a wide variety of styles, making it a versatile companion for aquatic and beachside adventures. In […]
Monochrome
The Multifort collection holds a special place in Mido‘s catalogue, dating back to the 1930s, when it became the brand’s first model to feature an automatic movement. Fast forward to today, and the collection continues to evolve, now welcoming three versions of the Multifort Skeleton Chronograph. Staying true to the Multifort spirit, these new watches […]
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Monochrome
Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection has fast become the brand’s bestseller, thanks to its convincing retro design, decent outsourced automatic movements, and competitive prices. The Millesime Chronograph was added to the collection last year and stands out with its attractive reverse panda dial references. The latest 39mm chronographs, available in steel with a grey dial and […]
Worn & Wound
If you’re into watches, then you’re into Abraham-Louis Breguet. One of the founders of modern horology, his innovations set the course of the industry and remain relevant. Whether that’s in terms of his inventions like the tourbillon, the gong-spring, his signature overcoil, self-winding, or shock protection, to name but a few, or in marketing and selling his timepieces, his contributions set many standards. Of these listed, however, marketing and selling seem the least interesting, and yet, Breguet’s “Souscription” model and the watches created as a result, have served as inspiration for several of the modern Breguet brand’s most iconic timepieces. In 2005, the brand launched the Tradition line, bringing escapements to the dial of a wristwatch, and now, the Classique Souscription 2025, celebrating the company’s 250th anniversary. The Souscription concept is one we are all very familiar with, if a slightly different take that suited the times. Upon ordering one of Breguet’s Souscription pieces, a quarter of the total price was paid to cover the parts. A deposit, if you will. The watch was made, and the remaining three-quarters were sent to acquire it. Sounds familiar, though typically we don’t fund the making of individual watches (though sometimes we do). A highly successful campaign that was advertised via a pamphlet, another innovation, it is said that around 700 watches were produced using this model. The concept wasn’t just a method of payment, b...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Quartz movements get a bad rap from mechanical purists-and I'll never get it. The ticking second hand can apparently leave you feeling cold, especially when you’re used to the smooth sweep of an automatic. But for me, that’s always been a bit unfair. The real question isn’t whether quartz can match mechanicals-it's whether it should have to. Bulova’s HPQ (High-Performance Quartz) Precisionist movement is out to prove that quartz doesn’t just get the job done.
Monochrome
First released in 2004, the Orient Mako quickly became a hit, for it was a compelling take on the dive watch at a very accessible price. This competitor to the Seiko SKX Series, 5 Sports series or Citizen Promaster Marine and Challenge Diver. It is, from a value standpoint, one of the best automatic dive […]
Fratello
We met with Ming at Time to Watches in Geneva and left excited about all the releases in the pipeline. In addition to some innovative higher-end upcoming introductions, the brand still knows how to cater to its core audience. The new 37.02 Ghost exemplifies this as an automatic, time-only watch, but it’s still infused with […] Visit Hands-On With The New Ming 37.02 Ghost to read the full article.
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