Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Unimatic Modello Uno And Modello Quattro GMTs With Japanese Movements
Unimatic introduces two new automatic GMTs at a lower price point.
Results for Automatic vs Manual Winding
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80 Arrives in Forged Carbon
Well liked for its affordability and integrated-bracelet style, the Tissot PRX is now available in a novel material for the first time. The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic Forged Carbon has a lightweight case of carbon composite matched with an integrated rubber strap, and it is equipped with a no-frills automatic movement. Initial thoughts From an LCD digital to a Grendizer edition, the iterations of the PRX are endless, but the model is still appealing with its simple style and inexpensive price tag. Like its peers, the PRX Forged Carbon model is a functional watch with a monochromatic aesthetic matches the design perfectly. But it’s lighter than the steel versions of the model, and arguably more wearable. That said, carbon composite is not as durable as metal alloy, so this might not have the same easy robustness as the steel version. At US$995, this does cost more than the base model PRX, but it is one of the most affordable Swiss-made watches with a carbon composite case and automatic movement. No-frills fun The new PRX retains the style and dimensions of its steel counterpart. The case is 40 mm in diameter and a one-piece construction of carbon composite with a press-fit steel back. It’s slight thicker than the steel model because the steel case back connects to an inner case of steel that sits within the carbon composite outer case. The composite used for the case has a marbled finish that is typical of the material. Made up of white, grey, and black, the case is match...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Oris x LFP Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition
Oris introduces a limited edition of its Divers Sixty-Five created in collaboration with France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP) and the National Convention of Child Protection Associations charity (CNAPE). The model chosen to promote the annual children’s football tournament is a classic 38mm Divers Sixty-Five powered by an automatic movement – not to be confused […]
Monochrome
First Look - Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection, a Trio of Watches With a New Perpetual Calendar Movement
Founded in 1884 and celebrating its 140th anniversary this year, Breitling is no stranger to innovation and important milestones. In 1915, it launched the first wrist-worn chronograph with an independent pusher. In 1934, it patented a watch with a second independent pusher. In 1969, it participated in the creation of one of the first automatic […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Updated IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the First IWC with a Silicon Hairspring
This year, IWC brings the emblematic Portugieser collection under the spotlight, introducing several stunning new additions to the collection, including the impressive Eternal Calendar and updates to several iconic models, such as the chronograph and the 7-day Automatic. On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Shanghai, the brand unveils a new version of its Portugieser […]
SJX Watches
The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer in “Pogue” Colours
Affordable and powered by the sun, the Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC947 is dressed in the blue, red, and orange synonymous with the vintage “Pogue” chronograph. It’s not, however, a vintage re-issue but a modern take on a vintage design. “Pogue” refers to the vintage ref. 6139 that gets its name from astronaut William Pogue, who wore one during the Skylab 4 mission in 1973, making it the first automatic chronograph in space. Initial thoughts Seiko is expert at vintage re-issues at practically every price point, from the Seiko 5 Sports “Kamen Rider” to the Grand Seiko “First”. This isn’t the case for the SSC947, which mimics the Pogue’s colours but is otherwise a modern-day Prospex Speedtimer. That’s a good thing for everyone tired of historical remakes, although traditionalists might say the SSC947 doesn’t do justice to the original that’s something of a cult classic amongst Seiko enthusiasts. But the bottom line is, the SSC947 is an appealing, different alternative to the mostly conservative colours in the Prospex Speedtimer line. And it’s priced identically to earlier versions of the watch, so it offers the same value proposition. Dressed in the “Pogue” colour scheme The “Pogue” Featuring a two-tone red and blue tachymeter bezel, the SSC947 has a radially-brushed orange dial with brown sub-dials, just like its vintage inspiration. The flange around the dial is in dark brown to match the sub-dials. The specs are otherwise i...
Fratello
Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium
Please, come closer. It’s worth it. When you do, you can find that the movement inside the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium comprises 194 parts and features no fewer than 16 types of manual finishing. This results in a sophisticated and impressive watch that is both complicated and minimalistic; indeed, it is a paradox in […] Visit Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Evergreens - The History of the ETA Peseux 7001, The Hand-Wound Classic That Stood the Test of Time
Self-winding calibres are undeniably an advancement, especially those boasting extended autonomy. Yet, there is a timeless ritual, almost archaic, the deliberate act of winding a watch by thumb and forefinger, each click of the ratchet wheel a symphony for the discerning ear. This tactile dance, this connection to the mechanics, is a pleasure some aficionados […]
Time+Tide
Brad Pitt confirmed wearing custom vintage IWC on F1 movie set
The watch in question? A vintage IWC Ingenieur "Jumbo" SL Automatic ref. 1832 from 1976 with a custom green dial.The post Brad Pitt confirmed wearing custom vintage IWC on F1 movie set appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breitling Teams Up with NBA Superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo
Breitling’s latest collaboration is a pair of limited-edition Chronomats conceived together with Giannis Antetokounmpo, the Greek-Nigerian basketballer who plays for the NBA’s Milwaukee Bucks. The entry-level model is the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Giannis Antetokounmpo in stainless steel, an edition of 1,750 pieces. And then there’s the Chronomat B01 42 Giannis Antetokounmpo in 18k red gold that’s limited to 250. Both share the same dial with baton indices, finished in a green reminiscent of the Milwaukee Bucks’ team colours. And NBA superstar himself gets a unique creation: an all-red gold Chronomat B01 42 with the same green dial but with the registers and flange in contrasting white, along with Eastern-Arabic numerals (pictured above). Initial thoughts The Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are essentially identical to the respective standard Chronomat models, save for the dial colour that’s a brighter shade of green, along with the basketballer’s discreet “GA” as the second hands counterweight. The chronograph has the addition of a basketball emblem on the seconds register. The basketball elements in the design are minimal, so the two are a good cosmetic alternative to the standard models, even for someone who doesn’t follow basketball since the sport. That’s especially so since the Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are priced the same as the standard models: the GMT costs US$6,150, while the B01 chronograph is US$42,500 on the red gold Rouleaux brac...
SJX Watches
Raymond Weil’s Millesime Gets a Denim-Blue “Sector” Dial
Launched just last year, Raymond Weil’s “sector” dial is getting new livery with the Millesime Automatic Small Seconds Denim Blue. Not a vintage reissue per se but a modern take on a vintage-inspired design, the Millesime has a “sector” or “scientific” dial segmented into sections, subtly stepped on the periphery and frosted in the centre for a two-tone effect. The case is topped with a box-shaped sapphire crystal and narrow lugs for subtle retro charm. Initial thoughts Family-run Raymond Weil is a brand that might be familiar to watch enthusiasts but not top of mind – that’s because the brand had its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s when it was a major seller of affordable Swiss watches. Since then it has gradually fallen behind the competition with mostly unimaginative products; The New York Times describes the brand as a “mainstay of shopping malls”. With last year’s launch of the Millesime, a watch geared towards enthusiasts, the brand is trying to revive its offerings and reputation. It quickly found some success: the Millesime Small Seconds with a silver dial won the Challenge Prize (for watches retailing for less than CHF3,000) at last year’s Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève. Near-perfect proportions at 39.5 mm in diameter and just over 10 mm high In the hand, it’s obvious the Millesime is much, much better than most recent Raymond Weil creations. Even though the design isn’t exactly original, it shows attention was paid to the de...
Monochrome
The Evergreens - The History of the ETA 2892, The Enduring Elite Movement from ETA
Introduced in the 1970s during the rise of quartz movements, which were poised to dominate the industry, threatening to eclipse and eradicate mechanical mechanisms almost entirely, the ETA 2892 has become one of the most renowned and widely used self-winding calibres produced by the Swatch Group’s giant movement maker. Like the ETA 2824, the 2892 […]
Fratello
The Louis Vuitton Tambour One Year On: Has The Infatuation Lingered?
This week, exactly one year has passed since the Louis Vuitton Tambour 40mm Automatic appeared in its new braceleted guise. With heavy hitters like the Polo ’79 having appeared this year, what are my thoughts on the Louis Vuitton Tambour one year on? There’s no escaping from the fact that retro and integrated bracelets are […] Visit The Louis Vuitton Tambour One Year On: Has The Infatuation Lingered? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Revised TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date
Following a complete and welcomed overhaul of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Automatic collection in 2021, last month the brand introduced its latest updated models in the series, with five new Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and three Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT versions, with captivating new dials, slightly reduced case sizes, and powered by the […]
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC947, a Chronograph About as Close to the Classic “Pogue” as We’ve Seen
For years, Seiko fans have been clamoring for the return of the Pogue. From all corners of the internet, enthusiasts never let an opportunity to request a reissue of Seiko’s classic sports chronograph go to waste. The Pogue, otherwise known as reference 6139-6002, is legendary, famous for being on the wrist of NASA astronaut Col. William Pogue on his flight to Skylab. The watch in question was among the first automatic chronographs and issued in a variety of colorways, but it’s Pogue’s mustard yellow dial with a red and blue bezel that is the most collectible, and certainly the Seiko chronograph most of us picture in our mind’s eye when we think “Seiko chronograph.” For reasons the community can no doubt speculate on endlessly, Seiko never has relaunched the Pogue proper, but they’ve come about as close as they ever have with their latest release, the Prospex Speedtimer reference SSC947. We’ll examine the elephant in the room right upfront: this is not a mechanical chronograph, so is perhaps not the true heir to the Pogue legend. What we have in the SSC947 is a new entry in Seiko’s popular and quite good lineup of solar powered sports chronographs. We’re pretty big fans of these watches, which offer a ton of vintage inspired style and endless practicality in a package that’s extremely approachable. The retail price is $700 for watches in this collection, and they’re sized at a versatile 41.4mm. The special sauce with the Speedtimers is really in the...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko Pogue SSC 947: Your Guide
There are some watches out there that have achieved a rare sort of infamy and the Seiko Speedtimer 6139, also known as the “Pogue,” is one such watch. It is named after Colonel William R. Pogue who wore one during NASA’s Skylab missions. It was also the first automatic chronograph to travel to space. It’s become an icon because of its historical bona fides, but also because of it’s positively ridiculous (read, charming) colorway that fits so well in the ‘70s decade in which it was conceived. Key aesthetic tenets of a Pogue are the red and blue bezel insert and a certain yellowish-gold dial. It’s the sort of gold color that’ll have you conspiracy theorizing that this watch was in the Pulp Fiction briefcase. All of this backstory and preamble is to intentionally bury the lede and tell you that Seiko has, today, brought the Pogue back…sort of. Say hello to the Speedtimer Solar Chronograph, SSC947 which follows in the recently established design format of the solar Speedtimer range – the 41.5mm case size version of which the current Pepsi bezel SSC913 is a personal favorite. I remember when the line was announced and really loving the execution from the compact pushers to the great case size to the overall thinness due to the lack of a mechanical movement. And look, while the Pogue owes much of its fame to the fact that it housed an automatic caliber, we cannot just expect brands to issue 1:1 remakes of classic models. Seiko needs to innovate. It found a ...
Monochrome
Buying Guide - A Selection of Fuel-Injected Watches, from Fairly Simple to Ultra-Complex
“Racing is life; anything that happens before or after is just waiting.” Famous words by Michael Delaney, Steve McQueen’s character in the legendary 1971 movie Le Mans. And while there’s far more to life than racing, to a Petrolhead, it does make absolute sense. It’s the thrill of fast-paced cars being pushed on winding roads […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe In Ceramic
With a complete calendar, chronograph, and automatic option, the Bathyscaphe gets a full ceramic bracelet.
Monochrome
First Look - The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition, Micro-Rotor Power and Vintage Look
French brand Yema keeps pushing the quality of its watches higher and higher, and the recently released updated and refined Superman Slim CMM.20, featuring a proprietary automatic micro-rotor movement, rightfully received overwhelmingly positive reviews. Today, the watchmaker from the Morteau region presents a new interpretation of the brand’s emblematic 1960s skin dive watch series, the […]
Time+Tide
A clearer look at Minase, and the quirky proposition that is the Seven Windows
Seven sapphire crystals, a slim Swiss automatic, and a hand-polished case make up the Minase Seven Windows.The post A clearer look at Minase, and the quirky proposition that is the Seven Windows appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look - The Retter Mistral, An Accessible Thin Dress Watch with Style
Retter isn’t a brand that many are familiar with as its first watch launched only a couple of years ago, the 22 Automatic. It was a solid first effort with the always popular integrated sports watch aesthetic, but the follow-up Mistral is a more mature and elegant dress watch, with a truly ultra-thin case (a […]
SJX Watches
The Breitling SuperOcean Upgraded to 1,000 m
Practically every brand with a significant offering of sports watches has a 1,000 m-or-deeper dive watch in its catalogue, and Breitling has one in its catalogue since 1983. The latest is the Superocean Automatic 46 Superdiver that features a titanium case water resistant to 1,000 m that also features a bezel-lock mechanism. Initial thoughts Breitling redesigned the Superocean two years ago, giving its line of dive watches a modern aesthetic with subtle vintage-inspired elements, distinguishing it from the vintage remakes common in this segment. Superocean Superdiver retains the same styling, but in a larger, higher-spec format. For someone who likes the earlier Superocean but found it too small or 300 m too modest – this is it. As an aside, the camouflage-pattern dial is new for the Superocean line and feels unnecessary, though the pattern isn’t too obvious at a distance. Given Breitling’s regular cosmetic updates, a different dial style is likely on the cards. Though the priciest Superocean at US$6,300 on a strap, the Superdiver is still equipped with an ETA 2892. That’s adequate but not really competitive at this price point given the superior movements found in most competing watches. The black variant with its rubber strap More variety Having recently expanded three of its signature collections - Navitimer, AVI, and Avenger - Breitling now does the same for the Superocean, its longstanding line of dive watches. The current-generation Superocean draws ins...
Time+Tide
Panerai’s innovative Submersible Elux LAB-ID features mechanical luminescence - without using a dynamo
This beefy yet innovative watch uses a complex six-barrel system that's wound by a typical automatic rotor to mechanically power LED backlights.The post Panerai’s innovative Submersible Elux LAB-ID features mechanical luminescence – without using a dynamo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review
There is no doubt that most enthusiasts think of the brand Zenith and picture, in their mind’s eye, a chronograph – a chronograph powered by the now storied El Primero automatic chronograph movement which debuted in 1969. Triple use of the word chronograph in one sentence notwithstanding, it punctuates the kind of watch associated with this powerhouse of a brand. And 1969 was a monumental year for automatic chronographs. But it was also the year Zenith introduced its punchy, ready for the 1970s, and decidedly orange dive watch: The Defy A3648. Yes, a Zenith diver was released the same year as the El Primero…and the latter clearly took off on a trajectory far different from that of its aquatic counterpart. Vintage Zenith A3648 from around the time of the watch's launch. Over the past decade or so, Zenith has proven itself to be unmatched in the watch game when it comes to revivals, homages, re-editions, whatever you like to call them (Zenith literally calls them “Revivals” so we will too). Some Zenith Revival models are modern riffs on vintage designs, with slight tweaks, while others are near 1:1 recreations. Think back to the Defy Revival models of the past two years, with both black and ruby dial options. Those were authentic recreations down to the vintage-style clasps (an under-looked component of homage, if you ask me!). At Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith returned to the 1969 well and brought its spunky orange dive watch back to life in the form of the De...
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Returns to the Escale Wristwatch
Louis Vuitton is steadily rebuilding its watch collecting, reorienting the offerings towards more designs with thoughtful details and decoration. Having already redesigned the Tambour, the brand now debuts the Escale Time-Only Automatic. Returning to a case design that’s been in the Louis Vuitton catalogue for well over the decade, the new Escale is a no-frills three-hander with discreet references to the brand’s trunks incorporated into the aesthetic. Initial thoughts I’ve long been a fan of the Escale case – we covered the Escale Worldtime over a decade ago – because it is simple, distinctive, and wears well. The signature Escale models in the past, however, were world time models with extravagantly multicoloured dials. The aesthetic was typical, over-the-top Louis Vuitton. I liked them, a lot in fact, but they were not for everyone, and certainly not easily legible. The new Escale, on the other hand, is a practical watch that is legible but thoughtfully designed with discreet details that evoke Louis Vuitton’s trunks. It retains the same case but with a discreet, three-hand dial. Extravagant it is not, but it has wider appeal. Inside is the same LFT023 found in the Tambour, so movement-wise it has the same strengths and weaknesses. The movement is thin and attractively styled, but could do with more refined details, like the regulator index for instance. Though not perfect (or entirely in-house), the LFT023 compares well against the ETA 2892 found in the ori...
Deployant
Bvlgari Aluminium: three new models
Bvlgari adds three new dials to their iconic Aluminium collection: the Black GMT, Aluminium Chronograph Smeraldo and Aluminium White Automatic.
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Dissecting the Intricate World of Complicated Chronographs
Dive watches, pilot watches or luxury sports watches are some of the most popular types of watches, but when it comes to complications, the chronograph probably reigns supreme. However, even in the field of chronograph watches, there are a lot of differences to be found! With that in mind, we go beyond simple manual and […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Return of Gérald Genta with the new Gentissima Oursin
Mr Gérald Genta needs no introduction anymore. One of the most famous watch designers of our time, responsible for the creation of icons such as the Royal Oak or the Nautilus, he also created watches under his own name. From 1969 on, Genta produced exceptionally complex watches (incl. an automatic tourbillon grande sonnerie, often considered […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Discreet Luxury of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s dream of mechanical independence materialised in 1996 with the presentation of Chopard‘s first in-house movement known as calibre 1.96. Produced in Chopard’s Fleurier manufacture, the calibre was fitted inside the first L.U.C 1860 watch, writing a new chapter in the brand’s high-end watchmaking journey. Recognised as one of the finest ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic […]
SJX Watches
Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta
After having designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972), IWC Ingenieur (1974), and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976), Gerald Genta also penned the Seiko Credor Locomotive in 1978. Now Seiko has revived the Credor Locomotive, preserving much of the original’s aesthetics but executing it in the brand’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium and installing the new Credor CR01 automatic movement. The 1978 sketch of the Locomotive Initial thoughts Probably the last of the 1970s integrated bracelet sports watches Genta designed, the Locomotive is typical of his work of the period. In fact, the design is arguably an amalgamation of his better-known creations. Though it brings to mind his other work, the Locomotive is distinctive and definitely polarising. The Locomotive isn’t Genta’s best creation, but for some reason I like it. I’m familiar with the original and it has charm, despite being a little weird. I am sure the new limited edition will have far superior fit and finish, which will boost the intrinsic appeal. At the same time, the retail price of US$12,000 is competitive, especially when set against the Swiss competition like the IWC Ingenieur. Forward motion Named locomotive in the hope that it would propel Seiko forward, the Locomotive was designed by Genta at the request of Reijiro Hattori, a grandson of Seiko’s founder and uncle of current Seiko Group chairman Shinji Hattori. Genta’s original sketch for the Locomotive is dated 1978, and the watch was l...