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Fratello
Omega didn’t make a fuss about these two new gold Seamaster Diver 300M references and just sneakily added them to the catalog. And I wonder why there was no press release on them, like there was on the new steel Seamaster Diver 300M with orange accents the other week. Anyway, that decision was made, but […] Visit Hot Take: Adding Some Weight To The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M to read the full article.
Deployant
Credor releases a new tourbillon, which they call the Gold Feather with a tourbillon and a new urushi métier d'art on the dial and movement.
Worn & Wound
There’s something satisfying about handling a watch that feels like it knows exactly what it is. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 (L3.803.5.53.6) landed on my wrist with that kind of confident presence-not shouting for attention, but quietly competent in the way good tool watches should be. At 39mm with a mix of steel and 18-karat rose gold, it’s Longines’ centennial nod to their 1925 original, the world’s first dual time zone wristwatch. The question isn’t whether it’s historically significant-it obviously is-but whether it actually earns its place in today’s crowded GMT field. Longines, GMT Watches, and the Inevitable Tudor Question Let’s address the elephant in the room: if you’re shopping GMT watches around this price point, you’ve probably looked at the Tudor Black Bay GMT ($4,675). It’s the obvious comparison, sitting at roughly the same price with similar functionality. But where Tudor leans into its diving heritage with a rotating 24-hour bezel, Longines approaches GMT complications from their aviation roots. The Spirit Zulu Time 1925 isn’t trying to be a dive watch that happens to track time zones-it’s purpose-built for travelers and pilots who need to know what time it is “there.” The other natural competitors include the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT ($6,900), the Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer ($3,175), and the NOMOS Zürich Worldtimer ($6,100). But it’s worth noting these watches solve the multi-timezone problem...
Monochrome
Armin Strom first introduced the System 78 series model, the Orbit, in 2022, which became the world’s first watch with an on-demand date display integrated into a ceramic bezel. The original version featured a mostly monochromatic look, a steel case and a black gold dial, accented only by the red date pointer tip and matching […]
SJX Watches
The polarising Cubitus collection is not yet a year old, but Patek Philippe’s newest line of elegant sports watches has expanded in a big way with the Cubitus ref. 7128/1G-001 in a new ‘medium’ 40 mm size that transforms the wearing experience for the better. With summer now in full swing, it’s worth looking at this new Cubitus and considering what it means for the future of the collection. Featuring a silky 18k white gold case and bracelet, the smaller Cubitus practically drapes itself on the wrist, and is probably the most compelling launch yet from the new collection. Also available in rose gold (ref. 7128/1R-001), the new “medium” Cubitus is a luxury sports watch in the true sense of the term, combining everyday comfort and wearability with premium materials and high-quality finishing inside and out. For better or worse, the Cubitus retains several signature elements of the Nautilus such as the embossed sunburst blue dial and lozenge-shaped hands. Initial thoughts When the Cubitus launched last year, it was decried by many spectators as an unworthy successor to the sought-after Nautilus. I freely admit I never had a strong affinity for the Nautilus, which might explain my open mind toward the Cubitus, but I really like the faceted eight-sided crystal and find the overall design about as compelling as that of its esteemed predecessor. That said, I do wish the Cubitus had more of a distinct identity of its own. In the case of the current ref. 7128/1G-001 in 1...
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Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a Mediterranean-inspired rose gold Tonda PF Sport Chronograph with a new "Sandstone" colour scheme.The post Parmigiani Fleurier launches new Sandstone configuration for its Tonda PF Chronograph Sport (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Breitling collaborates Erling Haaland, on 2 new Chronomat models: Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 in steel and platinum, and the Chronomat B01 42 in red gold.
Monochrome
“How the Settimo gold bracelet elevated the Perpetual 1908 dress watch from elegant to exceptional.” This is how we began our review of what was basically only a metal bracelet added to an existing model from Rolex. Objectively speaking, the Perpetual 1908 on the Settimo bracelet is nothing new technically. Only the gold, multi-link bracelet […]
SJX Watches
I don’t often read spiels from watch sellers, though there are exceptions like Langepedia, a specialist in the German brand that I have long been a fan of. Alp Sever, the gentleman behind Langepedia, recently published a story that caught my eye. It was an ode to a watch already sold, but an important one worth commemorating, the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite ref. 701.008, a unique piece in white gold with silver sub-dials. Mr Sever’s story got my attention because I remember the watch. It first emerged publicly just over a decade ago at Christie’s, where it had been consigned by presumably the original owner (who was presumably someone connected with the brand’s corporate parent in the 1990s). I admired the watch in person during a preview exhibition, but back then it was as far out of my budget as the Lange 31’s mainspring is long. The unique dial has a concise, crisp aesthetic that is almost monochromatic and accentuated by the lozenge-shaped markers also found on the pink gold variant. Intriguing, another unique Pour le Mérite exists with a similar all-black dial, but with a smaller, 36 mm case. This “panda” iteration is more appealing, however, as is its conventional, 38.5 mm case. The unique Tourbillon Pour le Mérite sold for CHF437,000 at Christie’s Geneva in May 2014 – extraordinary at the time. In the same auction, a third-series Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in yellow gold sold for less. The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite was enjoying a little bit of a bo...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Vacheron Constantin 222 reissue first came out at Watches & Wonders 2022 and it was, quite literally and without hyperbole, the single most talked about watch at the show that year. The revival was a solid gold, integrated-bracelet sports watch that went from a somewhat obscure cult classic to a breakout, mainstream status watch seen on Brad Pitt, Michael B. Jordan, and Chris Paul. Once the initial excitement subsided and everyone got their wrist shots to post on Instagram, the obvious next question posed by industry insiders was, “when do we see a steel model revival?” Well, that question got answered late last year with the release of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Ref. 4200H/222A-B934, a watch that benefits from contemporary watchmaking techniques while looking like it could be straight out of the ‘70s. Done in a stainless steel case and bracelet with a subtle matte blue dial, this new 222 revival became one of the most lust-worthy releases of 2025 shorty after its arrival, less than two weeks into January. For a little history and background, the 222 was released in 1977 and is something of a precursor to the Overseas. I’ve heard a few people incorrectly attribute the 222 to Gérald Genta but it was actually the work of fellow prolific designer Jörg Hysek. The 222 came on the heels of the Royal Oak (1971) and Nautilus (1976) and the 1977 launch coincided with the brand’s 222th anniversary, hence the name. Like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the 2...
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SJX Watches
A subtler version of its flagship model, the Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series looks almost like a time-only watch. It does away with the dial cutout for the tourbillon, leading to a more toned-down appearance for the complicated watch that combines a three-gong carillon repeater with a tourbillon. Notably, the new model is also available in a two-tone configuration of titanium and 18k rose gold. Initial thoughts Watchmakers usually highlight the tourbillon, putting the regulator front and centre of the dial (and charge a lot more for the mechanism too). Back in 2023, Biver made its debut with a tourbillon minute repeater, which proudly displayed the tourbillon at six o’clock. Now the brand has reprised the model, but conceals what was the main showpiece on the dial. The two models are delivered with a set of cufflinks, material-matched to the watch The closed dial plainly conceals the tourbillon underneath. And due to the movement’s construction, the tourbillon can’t be seen from the case back either - making for a confusing sight. The end result is a very understated timepiece that doesn’t reveal itself easily, or much at all. In fact, the apparent simplicity is underlined by the dial, which is almost identical to that of the time-only Automatique. It features the same brushed circular sectors and micro relief minute track have become staple design elements of the brand. Were it not for the repeater slide, one would even be tempted to assume this is...
Deployant
Breguet releases their first ever flying tourbillon in the new Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255, with a case in Breguet gold and an aventurine dial.
WatchAdvice
A chronograph born for the big screen, forged in gold, and fuelled by Formula 1. The latest IWC Pilot’s APXGP Watch Performance Chronograph 41 isn’t just a watch; it’s a celebration of performance, precision, and pure emotion. From the Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG to the cinema, and now on my wrist, this is one experience I won’t forget anytime soon. What We Love The gold, black, and white perfectly reflect the colour palette of the APXGP racing team. The timepiece offers strong wrist presence with beautiful case finishing and a lively dial. From the film to the real-world F1 team, this is storytelling done right on the wrist. What We Don’t The smoked caseback adds to the stealth aesthetic, but slightly reducing the tint would’ve been better to showcase the beautiful movement finishing. And possibly a gold rotor to really nail home the APXGP ties! A touch less white on the dial (especially the minute track) could further enhance the legibility and let the gold accents shine even more. While 41mm is a signature size in IWC’s Pilot’s collection, the watch may still feel larger for slimmer wrists. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This review is unlike anything I’ve written before, because the watch at the heart of it is unlike anything I’ve experienced before! The IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 isn’t just another Pilots Chronograph model; it’s a symbol of speed...
Quill & Pad
As regular readers know, the idea of the Behind the Lens series is to present great watches as seen from a variety of visual perspectives. Mostly, I feature watches on loan from my generous friends, but this time let’s look at a piece that I am very fortunate to have in my own collection: the legendary Simplicity by Philippe Dufour in a 37 mm white gold case with white lacquer dial.
SJX Watches
Piaget combines its traditional expertise in stone dials and ultra-thin movements with the Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian, a handsome – and more original – take on the complicated Polo. The slim white gold case is combined with a mesmerizing dial in blue obsidian, which is not a mineral as often believed, but instead volcanic glass. Initial Thoughts The latest Polo Perpetual Calendar is arguably Piaget’s strongest release of the year. It plays to two of the brand’s traditional strengths, thin movements and natural stone or mineral dials. Piaget is of course not the only brand with a perpetual calendar sports watch. In fact, the Polo perpetual with a blue obsidian dial is similar enough to the competition to be competitive – it possesses the key characteristics of being slim and blue – but manages to do so without being derivative, which is arguably an issue with the earlier iteration of the model. The blue obsidian dial in particular sets this apart from comparable watches since exotic dial materials are relatively rare in this segment. The mechanics inside the latest Polo perpetual remain the same. While not the most sophisticated perpetual calendar mechanism in the segment, the ubiquitous Dubois Depraz calendar module is solid and reliable if adjusted according to protocol. Its widespread use also makes it easy for watchmakers to source parts, which is not always a given when it comes to complicated ultra-thin watches. That, paired with a competent ult...
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WatchAdvice
Breitling has updated their SuperOcean Heritage Collection, and with a range of seemingly small but big changes, we’ve taken the time-only models and put them to the test! What We Love The case refinements across the range The small nods to the vintage 1957 model The new in-house B31 Calibre What We Don’t The overlapping of the rubber strap under the wrist Fewer choices when it comes to the colour combinations in rose gold The domed crystal can reflect the light on the darker dials a little Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Earlier this month, Breitling released the new look SuperOcean Heritage Collection with a suite of changes that, while looking like small incremental changes, all added up to noticeable differences across the entire range. We had a first look at these upon release, and were fortunate enough to get our hands on them for some time prior, so the whole team was able to see the changes themselves in person, and what they meant for the wearer of the new models. Sam and I flipped a coin to see who would review the time only and who would review the new chronographs. This was a coin toss with no loser, as each was a good a choice as any, and I scored the time only. So stay tuned for Sam’s review of the Chronograph in a few weeks time. Breitling’s New SuperOcean Heritage Collection Kicks Up A Swell! Initial Thoughts I’ve always said, press photos and renders don’t always do the wat...
Fratello
A little less than a month ago, we saw the introduction of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. The watch commemorates 100 years of Longines dual-time watches in a rather bold fashion. Its rose-gold-capped bezel and matching gold dial details set it apart from any other Spirit Zulu Time. I was immediately intrigued by this […] Visit Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone to read the full article.
Hodinkee
On the heels of last week's mother-of-pearl dials "for her," the brand unveils a litany of versatile divers in steel, titanium, and red gold "for every wrist."
Hodinkee
Collectors asked and Breguet answered… in gold.
Quill & Pad
Czapek's Promenade collection places the focus on artistic dials and the new Promenade Diamond Drops adds some sparkle to the artistry. The 38 mm diameter white gold case is features a diamond-set bezel and crown, and the dial is a sparkling sea of snow-set dial of diamonds and sapphires.
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SJX Watches
Following the Classique Souscription, and Tradition Seconde Rétrograde, Breguet continues its 250th anniversary roll-out by turning to its signature pilot’s watch. The Type XX Chronographe 2075BH debuts in two variants in “Breguet gold”: a regular production with a black aluminium dial and a 250-piece limited edition with a sterling silver dial. Both are handsome and stay mostly true to the model’s heritage thanks to faithful sizing and a manually-wound movement. The regular production with a black aluminium dial (left), and sterling silver dial of the limited edition Initial Thoughts The new Type XX ticks many of the boxes from an enthusiast’s perspective with its compact dial and concise dial that does without a date and hour totalizer – both welcome reductions to the first-generation design. That said, the Breguet gold case is limiting due to the price. A stainless steel case would’ve been even more appreciated, though that will probably arrive in due time. While the cal. 7278/7279 in the new Type XX is technically excellent – like most Breguet calibres – the thoroughly modern construction doesn’t complement the vintage-inspired design. Adapting the cal. 582 used in the 1990s Type XX might have been more interesting due to its lateral clutch construction and increasingly rare cam-control system, though the cal. 7278/7279 reads better on a spec sheet with its vertical clutch. And to preserve the vintage feel, a solid, hand-engraved case back might...
Worn & Wound
Bauhaus design, though never really leaving the spotlight, is certainly in a bit of a renaissance these days, with its focus on stylistic simplicity and function appealing to contemporary audiences just as successfully as it did during its heyday a full century ago. German watchmaker Stowa, however, is taking the history and legacy of the style in a more defined direction, with their latest Antea Classic KS in rose gold and anthracite. According to the brand, they’ve been making Bahaus-style watches in Germany since 1937, and argue that perhaps the State School of Design (the originator of Bauhaus, which existed from 1919 to 1933) was a more direct influence on watchmakers of the 1930s than previously thought. In celebration of that marriage of influential German design and horology, Stowa has been producing a modernized version of its first Bauhaus watch since 2004. The new Antea Classic KS references continue that tightly-wound history, with new touches to appeal to current trends in watchmaking and design. Since the original 1937 model wore a copper dial in a chrome-plated case, Stowa has reintroduced a version of that color combination with the new references. Both feature a highly-polished 35.5mm (44.6mm lug-to-lug) stainless steel case, which envelops the sunburst dial in either rose gold or anthracite. Temperature-blued steel hands sweep around the dial, pointing to thin and tall white Roman numerals with no indexes between each hour, giving the dial a very cl...
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin gives its most affordable Freak a new look with a blue flinqué enamel dial and rose gold case. The brand has launched three other Freaks with enamel dials over the past two years, but all were small-run, retailer-exclusive limited editions. The Freak X Gold Enamel, on the other hand, is not retailer-specific and will be limited to 120 examples. The watch puts Ulysse Nardin’s investments in silicon fabrication and dial making to good use, and with good results. The combination of traditional métiers d’art with state-of-the-art technology also makes it more approachable to traditionalists than a typical Freak. Initial Thoughts Even as it nears 25 years on the market, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak remains avant-garde in aesthetics and technology. The Freak looks and feels like a small-batch concept watch, rather than the collection staple it’s become. It’s hard to believe you can walk into a retailer and walk out with something like this from a major Swiss brand for less than six figures. A rarely mentioned refinement is the use of clear sapphire jewels, rather than the typical reddish-purple rubies. It’s rare for brands to harmonize jewel colors with the rest of the watch, but it always results in a more cohesive look. Besides striking looks, its also a surprisingly practical watch, with a reasonably sized case, respectable lume, and 50 m water resistance. Overall, a well-rounded package, though the US$10,300 premium for the enamel dial over the regular ...
SJX Watches
Although Francois-Paul Journe is best known for his inventions like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance, not to mention the whole suite of Octa models, the Chronomètre Souverain was also arguably one of his brand’s foundational models. This year F.P. Journe is marking two decades of the watch with the Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, which is essentially the original in new dress – the dial is now dark blue with applied gold numerals. Initial thoughts When the Chronomètre Souverain debuted in 2005 – the same year as the Breguet Tradition that was recently revived – it was novel and exciting; I remember the buzz amongst enthusiasts then. The F.P. Journe brand was barely six years old. The Chronomètre Souverain was then one of the rare few time-only watches from an independent watchmaker, and it had an all-new movement to boot. Today it is less exciting for sure, but the movement remains surprising novel for a basic calibre. As an entry-level watch, the Chronomètre Souverain remains excellent (even if availability is an obstacle). Although the Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest mechanical F.P. Journe watch, the cal. 1304 inside still retains the technical hallmarks of the brand, namely elegant, concise engineering and symmetry. Clever touches include the “invisible” gear train; only the regulator and barrels are visible on the main plate. From its conception, the cal. 1304 was conceived for chronometry. The utility and strength of t...
SJX Watches
As the Hong Kong auctions have wrapped, we move to the final sales of the spring season in New York City. Phillips will offer a healthy mix of new and old, common and rare, across 144 lots. The sale includes many of the expected top-of-the-line offerings, with the headline lot a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in yellow gold, and staples like a pair of ref. 5004s. But there are plenty of interesting watches to be down catalog too, including some fresh faces and value buys. Highlights include the best of English watchmaking made by Charles Frodsham a century apart, the auction debut of American independent Keaton Myrick, an unusual F.P. Journe Résonance, along with a Cartier pocket watch made by complications specialist THA. We round up these and a few more from The New York Watch Auction: XII, which takes place from June 7-8, 2025. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. Lot 11 – A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph “2022 Best of Show, Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este” Since 2012, A. Lange & Söhne has been a sponsor of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, a classic car shown that takes place in spring on the picturesque shores of Lake Como. Each year, the owner of the event’s best car is presented with a unique Lange watch. While past winners have received a fairly conventional Lange 1 Time Zone, the brand upgraded the prize in recent years to a striking 1815 Chronograph. In 2022, the winner was Andrew Pisker with a Bugatti 57 S from 1937. He received th...
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