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Fratello
The Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal is as rare as a hen’s teeth, with only three examples known before this one. Watch purists may not accept this one because I managed to put it together from old parts. Still, everything is genuine and correct for the period. First, I encourage you to read Mike’s eight-year-old story […] Visit #TBT The Unobtanium Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
What if…? This simple statement could easily summarize what Albishorn‘s founder Sébastien Chaulmontet wants to achieve with the brand, or “Imaginary Vintage” watches as he likes to call it. Things started with the appealing Maxigraph, or what a modern regatta chronograph would have looked like in the 1930s. Now, Albishorn takes flight, and Chaulmontet creates […]
SJX Watches
Less than two months have elapsed since Albishorn made its debut, but the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet is back with the Type 10, an “imaginary vintage” prequel to the Type 20 pilot’s watch made famous by Breguet. Available with black or green textured dials, the Type 10 features a proprietary manually wound monopusher chronograph movement with an unusual layout that differentiates it from other Type 20-inspired watches. Though not a limited edition, the Type 10 will be produced in small batches of just 25 watches in each livery. Initial thoughts Conceptually, I like the idea of “imaginary vintage” – the brand’s tagline – because it liberates the design from the constraints of the past and avoids coming off as a copy or homage. While I don’t like every detail of the Type 10, there’s a lot to be excited about, especially as a preview of what might be coming next from the fledgling brand. The Type 10 is powered by the proprietary ALB02 M, a manually wound chronograph movement that, like the Maxigraph, shares some of the architecture of the ubiquitous Valjoux 7750. But to call this a cal. 7750 would be to miss the numerous refinements implemented by Dr Chaulmontet that result in a slimmer movement with, reportedly, a more pleasant pusher action. The Type 10 retains many of the best features of the Maxigraph, including its case. Interestingly, the case is not quite identical; the Type 10’s case is slightly thinner on account of its manually wound ...
SJX Watches
Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...
Time+Tide
The '50s-inspired chrono comes with a few expected irreverent touches.The post H. Moser and Massena LAB collaborate on the mid-century Moser-inspired Endeavour Chronograph Compax appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Deployant
Ready for Watch Time New York, Czapek released a new version of their Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph which they christened as "Crossroads".
Hodinkee
A chronograph with mid-century vibes makes for an impressive follow-up from the young New York brand.
Fratello
Raymond Weil struck gold with the Millesime, a vintage-inspired watch that won a GPHG award. Belgian comics artist Philippe Francq (1961) also received praise and awards with his Largo Winch series of comic books. The titular character, a Yugoslavian adventurer whose birth name was Largo Winczlav, first appeared in 1990. Since then, 24 graphic novels […] Visit Wearing The Ninth Art On The Wrist: The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch to read the full article.
Fratello
It has been a while since I published a Pre-Owned Spotlight, so I figured I should return in style with watches I can only dream of owning and wearing. Today, I will go on a pretend shopping spree for a pre-owned, high-end chronograph. Do I need a pre-owned, high-end chronograph? Yes, I do, thank you […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone. When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...
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SJX Watches
A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...
Fratello
It’s been roughly 18 months since Lorca founder Jesse Marchant unveiled his debut watch. Praised by the press and enthusiasts alike, the Model No.1 GMT presented a unique take on a multi-time watch. Instead of following the typical GMT category codes, Marchant created a watch much more characterized by its overall vintage-inspired elements. The result […] Visit Unveiling The Lorca Model No.2 - A Connoisseur’s Chronograph to read the full article.
Fratello
Today, we go hands-on with the Louis Moinet Speed of Sound chronograph. This is a stunning modern watch with a vintage heart. As we’ll see, the rare vintage movement has been modified functionally and cosmetically to offer a novel moonphase display. Credit is due to Louis Moinet for creating innovative ways of displaying traditional time-related […] Visit Hands-On With The Louis Moinet Speed Of Sound Chronograph to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph is a great example of a brand embracing its past but knowing where to look forward.The post Improving upon history with the Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I confess that I look forward to anything Rick Marei and his team create. Recent offerings from Aquastar and Synchron have all been exciting, well made, and relatively affordable. Now the new Aquastar Airstar Chronograph further ups the approachability ante. This is certainly one of the cooler recent releases. There are a lot of ’60s […] Visit Hands-On: The New Aquastar Airstar Chronograph to read the full article.
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Fratello
Today, we’ll look at the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date. This is a wild piece, and it debuts an innovative case material that took over five years of development. Get ready for some bright visual stimulation! The Audemars Piguet Concept offerings are typically filled with new technology from the […] Visit Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date to read the full article.
Fratello
Cabot Watch Company (CWC) has a strong and loyal following, including among some of the writers here at Fratello. The British-based brand is known for its military-issued timepieces. Today, we take a closer look at the new CWC 6BB-WR Chronograph. For a small and relatively young brand, CWC has quite a lot of history. It […] Visit Hands-On With The New CWC 6BB-WR Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
German brand Union Glashütte has a wide range of chronographs interpreted in different styles in its Belisar, Noramis and Averin collections. The latest Belisar Chronograph Sport is a new sub-collection which exchanges the more overt vintage styling of some former references for a more contemporary look and feel. Black is the key player of this […]
Fratello
Do you want to hunt with the hounds and run with the hare? In that case, Seiko has got you covered. What? Is that too cryptic for you? If you want an ultra-precise quartz watch that connects to GPS satellites circling the globe and takes its energy from light but looks like a traditional, mechanical […] Visit For Those Who Just Want It Both Ways: Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
First launched in 2021, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph now returns in an appealing combination of materials. The new model shares many similarities with its predecessor, namely the same case design and movement. But it’s now rendered in black ceramic and 18k white gold, matched with pink gold hands. Initial thoughts With the design having been refined over time, it is now clear that the negative reaction to the initial Code 11.59 collection was overdone. Granted, some criticism was justified with the original line-up, particularly for the time-only variants with plain dials (now replaced by guilloche). The most appealing versions of the Code 11.59 are the complications, particularly those with open-worked dials, like the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. The open working of the dial transforms what was a design weakness into strength. Not only does the open dial showcase the mechanics and finishing of the movement, but it also complements the large, contemporary case. The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph a watch executed excellently with little to criticise – except for the case dimensions, which could be more compact. The Code 11.59 design looks larger than it is, so the case wears larger than it measures. Although the price is only available on request, it is in the region of CHF250,000. It’s a big number but comparable to similar complications from Audemars Piguet’s rivals like Vacheron Constantin. But unlike the competition,...
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SJX Watches
After having expanded the line-up of its bestselling, vintage-inspired Carrera “Glassbox”, TAG Heuer now turns to something modern, the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport. Though it shares the Carrera moniker and TH20 movement, the new Extreme Sport chronograph is nothing like is retro counterpart. Available in titanium or 18k rose gold, the Carrera Extreme Sport is a big, bold chronograph with a skeletonised dial and integrated rubber strap. And at the top of the new collection is the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, which is the most modern take on TAG Heuer’s affordable double complication of chronograph plus flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer’s offerings are now mostly either vintage-inspired and hyper-modern. The Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport definitely falls into the latter category. The open-worked dial is surprisingly intricate, with the X-shaped latticework finished with a combination of colour-treated frosted recesses and straight graining. With a skeletonised dial and chunky case, the Chronograph Extreme Sport feels similar to other watches in this segment, though the case is distinctive as the Carrera design. For anyone who feels TAG Heuer’s vintage-inspired watches are too traditional, this has the same in-house movement but presented in contemporary package. Like most watches of this style, the Chronograph Extreme Sport has an integrated rubber strap for a seamless clean profile, but never really fits as well as a convent...
Monochrome
Introduced in 2020, a year after the debut of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection, the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph’s combination of two complications with an openworked dial was designed to showcase the brand’s high-end watchmaking skills. The latest iteration of this model comes in a two-tone white gold and black ceramic case and an […]
Time+Tide
For Geneva Watch Days 2024, the Hölstein brand has brought two key releases: a new Aquis Chronograph and a limited edition Divers Sixty-Five.The post Oris returns with two hot releases, an all-new chronograph and a charitable limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breitling marks its 140th anniversary with a new calibre, the B19. Based on its longstanding B01, the B19 adds a perpetual calendar on top to create the most complicated in-house calibre in the brand’s stable. The B19 is making its debut in three different models, all clad in 140th anniversary livery: the Premier B19 Datora 42, Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar, and Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar. Initial thoughts One of the most sophisticated chronograph constructions in the mid range of the price spectrum, the B01 gains a worthy upgrade with the perpetual calendar. Granted the additional complication adds substantial height to the case – all of the three models are well over 15 mm high – but that’s acceptable for a self-winding chronograph with perpetual calendar. Interestingly, the B01 base movement of the B19 has been upgraded over the standard version with some improvements (no doubt courtesy of Kenissi, which bought the rights to the B01 construction), though it’s uncertain if these will make their way into the plain B01. Though all three are identical mechanically, they look and feel different. The Super Chronomat is super chunky and the largest of the three, while the Navitimer and Datora are slightly more compact and definitely more retro in terms of style. The old-school, four-register calendar layout arguably suits the vintage-inspired style better. All three retail for US$59,000, which is par for the course for this double com...
Monochrome
Albishorn is a new independent brand born to create “imaginary vintage” – watches that could have existed, capturing the allure of the past while exploring the possibilities of what might have been. Inspired by a “what if” spirit, the brand’s inaugural model seeks to answer the question: “What would a modern regatta chronograph have looked […]
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