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Monochrome
Rado is a byword for innovative, resilient high-tech materials designed to weather life’s knocks and blows, and for its taste for square and rectangular case designs. Touted as the “world’s first scratchproof watch”, Rado’s 1962 DiaStar got the brand noticed with its proprietary Hardmetal tungsten carbide composite case. Like its DiaStar ancestor, the 1983 Anatom […]
SJX Watches
Omega continues to widen its already diverse Speedmaster offerings with the Speedmaster Moonwatch in “reverse panda” livery. Available in steel or 18k Moonshine gold, the latest iteration of the classic chronograph features a black dial in mirrored black lacquer with contrasting white registers, along with a ceramic insert for the tachymeter bezel. It’s something of a riff on the Moonwatch with a white lacquered dial launched in 2024. Initial thoughts This is an appealing variation of a classic. It might bring to mind past models with similar “reverse panda” dials, but the double-layer lacquered dial looks and feels quite different from earlier dials. The glossy surfaces is a pleasing upgrade that gives this a little more refinement. Like other recent Moonwatch iterations, this facelift moves the spaceflight-qualified chronograph upmarket while still retaining its technical credentials thanks to the Master Co-Axial cal. 3861 inside. Admittedly this strays a little from the “tool watch” roots of the Moonwatch, which was originally a no-frills chronograph. But the upgrades are not merely cosmetic – the dial is actually superior in terms of execution and finish, as is the bezel, case, and most importantly, movement. The cal. 3861 is clearly a big step forward compared to its predecessor. The lacquered dials don’t cost that much more than the standard equivalent with a matte black dial, which makes them a good alternative for someone who wants a Moonwatch tha...
Fratello
On this second (Speedy) Tuesday of the year, Omega introduces two new additions to the Moonwatch collection. After introducing a white-dial Speedmaster Professional in 2024, it’s now time for a reverse-panda configuration. These watches feature a glossy black dial with white recessed sub-dials and are available in 18K yellow gold and in steel. Click the […] Visit Video: Hands-On With The New Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional “Reverse Panda” to read the full article.
Fratello
Credor resurrected the Goldfeather name in 2023 with a pair of gold models. The watches combined elegant proportions with a thin case. Unfortunately, the pieces were only offered in Japan. For 2026, there’s good news afoot with a new release intended for global distribution. The new Goldfeather Imari Nabeshima Limited Edition is a beauty that […] Visit Introducing: The Credor Goldfeather Imari Nabeshima Limited Edition to read the full article.
Deployant
The Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse is a commemorative timepiece released by IWC Schaffhausen to mark the upcoming Lunar New Year. Limited to 500 pieces, it features a 42.4mm stainless steel case, a burgundy dial with gold accents, and the IWC-manufactured 52011 caliber offering a seven-day power reserve. The rotor is shaped like a galloping horse, visible through the sapphire caseback.
SJX Watches
The Toka from Finnish duo Roope Kortela and René Valta reflects the ongoing appeal of beautifully finished, time-only watches, combining a thoughtfully reworked historical calibre with the brand’s first champlevé enamel dial. With an emphasis on high-grade finishing and increasingly in-house components - including a proprietary free-sprung balance - the Toka is a strong sophomore effort from the startup independent. Rene Valta (foreground) and Roope Kortela Initial thoughts It’s been more than 25 years since Philippe Dufour unveiled the Simplicity, a watch that challenged prevailing wisdom about what fine watchmaking was all about. Launched at a time when brands and collectors were focused on complications, the Simplicity arguably created the niche for highly finished time-only watches and intensified collector focus on independent watchmaking in general. Though the field has become crowded over the past quarter-century, collector demand has proven durable. The Toka is a watch built in this tradition. The Omega calibre inside the Toka has been heavily reworked by Kortela Valta. The watchmakers kept most of the original architecture intact, while applying high-end finishing top to bottom. Furthermore, since the start of 2025, the watchmaking duo has expanded the list of components they’re able to make in-house, including the new free-sprung balance that differentiates the Toka from the Eka and Oma models that preceded it. The Toka features a fairly traditional...
Monochrome
While Hublot’s Classic Fusion model might look tame in comparison to the brand’s muscular Big Bang quarterbacks, in 1980 it sent shockwaves through the industry. With its unorthodox combination of a gold 37mm porthole-shaped case with exposed screws in the bezel paired with a black rubber strap, Carlo Crocco’s Hublot (French for porthole) watch was […]
Worn & Wound
I’ve never had many gold-tone watches in my collection, and it’s simply because I don’t have much gold jewelry to match. The benefit to this is that I’ve always been incredibly critical of the gold-tone watches I contemplate adding to my collection, knowing that I only want a few in my watch box overall. I acquired this 5T52-7A19 a couple of months ago after a spur-of-the-moment faceoff between me and the “buy it now” button on eBay. While I had owned a model from Seiko’s Age of Discovery line many years ago, I had never come into contact with one of the higher-end models from the collection. I’ve remained true to my self-implemented rule for gold-tone watches, meaning that this model will have the honor of forcing my hand to sell off another piece from the watch box. If you’ve been thinking about adding another gold-tone watch to your collection, let me introduce you to a staunch contender. Brief Overview of the Age of Discovery Line and -7A19 Model The Seiko Age of Discovery was introduced sometime between 1990 and 1992 to coincide with the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus’ 1492 voyage. Based on the historical time period of the same name, the Age of Discovery series is heavily influenced by the nautical theming associated with the many expeditions of European travelers between the 15th and 17th centuries. Many of the line’s watches feature motifs that harken back to crucial aspects of seafaring travel, sporting iconography such as maps, ...
Seiko launched the Astron in 1969, changing not just the brand’s trajectory but the way watches were made. The first commercially available quartz wristwatch, it arrived in solid gold and cost ¥450,000, about $1,250 at the time, or roughly $10,000 in 2025. Though “vintage” to modern eyes, its design was surprisingly luxurious and quietly radical, blending traditional finishing with industrial design cues in a way only Seiko could achieve. The exterior, however, was not the main story. The caliber 35SQ inside is what rewrote horology. With a quartz oscillator vibrating at 8,192 Hz, it delivered accuracy far beyond the mechanical watches of the day. It was not only a proof-of-concept that pushed horology into the 20th century, it also proved that Seiko was willing to innovate in an industry steeped in tradition. The post [VIDEO] The Seiko Astron SSH151, an Award-Winning Tech-Forward Timepiece appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
The Albishorn Type 10 Officer is the latest expression of the brand’s “imaginary vintage” philosophy, reworking the familiar codes of the mid-century military chronograph through the lens of a hypothetical Type 20 predecessor. Conceived by founder Dr Sébastien Chaulmontet, the cream-dialled Officer pairs its distinctive, parchment-like textured dial with a proprietary monopusher movement derived from a re-engineered Valjoux 7750 architecture, combining COSC-certified performance with thoughtful ergonomic and aesthetic refinements at a price that undercuts many conventional aviation-inspired chronographs. Initial thoughts Military aviation-inspired watches are a cornerstone of the luxury watch market, but most pay homage to specific historical references like the famed Type 20 of the 1950s. In contrast, the Albishorn Type 10 proposes to ‘recreate’ a hypothetical Type 20 predecessor. The cream-dialled Officer takes this idea further, suggesting a “missing link” is the aesthetic development of the military chronograph, with a lighter-coloured dial for open-air usage away from the front lines. When the Type 10 debuted with black and green dials, I was a bit skeptical of the texture, which reminded me of asphalt. The Officer’s dial features a similar texture, but the off-white colour transforms the look. To my eye, the new dial looks like vintage German etching paper, which is an appealing texture that suits the theme of the watch. Inside, the Officer is as com...
Hodinkee
The Time Jumper is Czapek's first jump-hour watch and features a half-hunter case, a nod to the brand's pocket-watch legacy, in both gold and steel.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin caps a banner year with the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, finally positioning its compact perpetual as a unisex proposition rather than a gem-set ladies’ exclusive. Building on the vintage-friendly 36.5 mm case size first seen in 2022, the latest references arrive in either white or pink gold, with the clean, unadorned versions taking centre stage as they broaden the landscape for classic perpetual calendars in genuinely compact sizes. Initial thoughts Some watches are good not because they are revolutionary, but simply because they combine several appealing traits in a single watch; the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar is a good example. The cal. 1120 QP movement has been around for decades, and since 2022 it has even had a home in this 36.5 mm Traditionnelle case, albeit only in gem-set models positioned as ladies watches. For the first time, this compact perpetual calendar is positioned as a unisex watch thanks to an unadorned case in either 18k white or pink gold. An additional gem-set reference joins the collection as well, but the standard model is the newsworthy article as it adds a meaningful option to the landscape of vintage-leaning perpetual calendars. Production has already commenced, and the pieces that the brand manages to make before year-end will be marked with the 270th anniversary emblem that has marked all of this year’s releases. This small detail denoting a subset of the production may prove to be a fun collecto...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne brings 2025 to a close with the Lange 1 Daymatic Honeygold. Limited to 250 pieces, the new edition pairs the familiar reversed Lange 1 layout with a warm chocolate brown dial and the straw-coloured precious metal that has become synonymous with the brand’s most exclusive releases. The automatic version of Lange’s signature watch is dressed in Honeygold for the first time. The proprietary alloy has appeared only sparingly since its 2010 debut, making this one of the rarer expressions of the Daymatic and a notable addition to the broader Honeygold lineage. Exclusivity aside, the Daymatic exudes tangible quality, as expected from Lange. Initial thoughts The 17th Honeygold edition since the material debuted in 2010, the Daymatic is, to my eye, one of the more attractive editions in the series. Perhaps it’s my affinity for the Lange 1 design, but the simplicity of the layout and textures is more appealing than some other recent editions like the Odysseus that was launched at Watches & Wonders. The Daymatic has always felt like the quirky sibling within the Lange 1 family, in a good way. And while the reversed dial takes some getting used to after becoming accustomed to the standard model, this layout has its advantages. For one thing, the repositioned sub-dial for the time display makes it easy to peak at the time while half the watch remains tucked away under one’s sleeve. The entry price of about €75,000 is a lot of money for a simple day and date...
SJX Watches
Along with the flagship Classique Grande Sonnerie Métiers d’Art 1905 pocket watch, Breguet just announced its first water-resistant minute repeater, the Classique Répétition Minutes 7365. While this 250th anniversary edition with a Breguet gold case and Bleu de France grand feu enamel dial is limited to 25 examples, it likely represents the future of the brand’s chiming watches: smaller and more robust. Initial Thoughts Despite the strong popularity chiming watches have seen at the high end for many years, it has felt like something of a weak point for Breguet, reliant on rather old movements that didn’t always sound the best. The ambitious and wild Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087 promised to fix this in 2018, but for unknown reasons that watch never made it to market. However, acoustically Breguet’s repeaters have become quite good despite the old bones, proving how key gongs and case construction are to repeaters. The 7087 doubles down on this approach, not even introducing a silent centrifugal governor which has become ubiquitous in modern chiming watches, even at the high end – the sound of which I’ve come to find quaint. The move to smaller sizes, 42 mm to 39 might be more dictated by market trends rather than any specific vision from the brand, but is one I appreciate either way, and while water resistance isn’t strictly necessary in a chiming watch, the peace of mind is reassuring. In the end, this watch comes down to how much you lik...
SJX Watches
The penultimate entry in Breguet’s 250th celebration is the Classique Grande Sonnerie Métiers d’Art 1905, a complicated pocket watch that unites several of Breguet’s creations, along with the métiers d’art know-how and high-technology of the modern Breguet manufacture. The 1905 features hand engraving and flinqué enamel, as well as using Breguet’s magnetic strike governor and gold gongs. As with all of the brand’s 250th anniversary creations, the nearly 60 mm case is made of Breguet Gold, with Bleu de France for an additional pop of colour. Initial thoughts During the 2000s, Breguet launched the Montre de Poche 1907, a minute repeating tourbillon pocket clock watch with grande et petite sonnerie. At the time, several of the best brands were building new complicated pocket watches, most notably Patek Philippe, rather than scavenging ebauches. In the 20 years since, new production complicated pocket watches have disappeared from nearly every brand’s catalogue – except for Breguet’s. The Montre de poche 1907BA/12. Image – Breguet Officially the 1907 has only been offered in yellow gold – though white and rose gold examples probably exist as well. Now, to celebrate 250 years of the house of Breguet, the 1907 gets a new look and technical overhaul with the striking Classique Grande Sonnerie Métiers d’Art 1905 in an 18k “Breguet Gold” case. The 1905 is not completely novel, mechanically speaking, as none of Breguet’s launches this year have been...
Fratello
This new MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold will become available on December 4th. However, after that date, this MoonSwatch model will be available only when the Swiss see snowflakes. Though it will be for sale at select Swatch boutiques worldwide, it will be subject to local weather conditions in Switzerland. And the sales of […] Visit A Novel Sales Model: This New MoonSwatch Is Only Available When It Snows In Switzerland to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The bronze watch patina is one of the most fascinating, naturally occurring phenomena in watch collecting. So much so that it seemed every horological player wanted to put its own spin on this rugged, sea-worn metal around a decade ago. A lot has changed in watchmaking since then. Manufacturers have pushed boundaries further than we ever thought possible, offering enthusiasts a vast array of proprietary materials to choose from, with bronze taking its place alongside classic favorites like stainless steel and gold. Bronze watches remain a compelling choice among collectors today. Article by Nina Scally [toc-section heading="Bronze Watches Context"] Despite its association with maritime history, this corrosion-resistant material has infiltrated the pilot-watch sphere and established a foothold in the category of field watches as well. Today, bronze continues to cast its rich, warm nuances over some of the world’s most beautiful and evocative neo-vintage dive watches as well. Indeed, this ancient metal of seafaring legends appears to have secured its place on the wrists of watch enthusiasts for the foreseeable future. So there seems no better time than now to delve into how bronze has come to settle within the watch-collecting landscape, and why its slow-burning patina and rugged charm have cemented it as a modern collector’s favorite. [toc-section heading="How Patina Develops"] Would you ever walk into a dealership and ask, “Do you have something that’s alre...
Time+Tide
There's much more to watch materials than just steel and gold. Here, we break down some of the most common materials used in watchmaking.The post Everything you need to know about the most common watch materials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With over 90 brands at Dubai Watch Week this year, there were plenty of hot new releases, with soft gold tones leading the way.The post Dubai Watch Week 2025 Special: new releases from Laurent Ferrier, Biver, MB&F; and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Christie’s Hong Kong returns this autumn with an extraordinary offering of rare and important Patek Philippe watches, headlined by a ref. 1518 in yellow gold. The auction is defined by two major private collections, most notably Part 2 of The Chronicle Collection - the successor to this spring’s successful first chapter. From neo-vintage rarities to heavyweight modern complications, the sale presents one of the of the most interesting Patek Philippe selections of the season. Lot 2225 – Patek Philippe Ref. 3979HJ Minute Repeater The story of Patek Philippe’s mastery of the modern minute repeater begins in 1989 with the launch of the ref. 3979 and the calibre R 27 PS. Launched to commemorate the brand’s 150th anniversary, the ref. 3979 was the brand’s first automatic minute repeater, and its first wristwatch to feature a silent centripetal governor, which was still novel at the time. According to the serial number, the present lot was the 47th ref. 3979 to be made, out of approximately 100 units produced over a nine year run. Further distinguishing the current lot is its classical enamel dial, which was a relatively uncommon configuration for this reference. The compact 33 mm yellow gold case is a love letter to classical dress watches. The case itself was made by Ateliers Rèunis, the brand’s own case maker, and was manufactured in the building that now houses the Patek Philippe museum. Today, more than 35 years after its launch, the cal. R 27 PS is still am...
Monochrome
It’s worth recalling that Louis Vuitton, the colossal French luxury emporium, was forged on luggage and steamer trunks. Appointed trunk-maker to Napoleon III’s wife, Louis Vuitton (1821-1892) struck gold with his invention of the flat-topped stackable traveller’s trunk. Since then, the brand has been consistently associated with the Art of Travel, a theme that extends […]
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux (GP) unveils the second chapter of the Laureato’s 50th anniversary with the Laureato Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon. First launched as part of the earlier generation Laureato in the 1990s, the tourbillon has been reimagined with a monochromatic palette in a limited edition of 50 pieces that evokes GP’s golden age as a modern-day manufacture. Initial thoughts Few tourbillon movements are as iconic as the GP Three Gold Bridges. The concept debuted in a tourbillon pocket watch in 1867 and the manufacture has since adopted the signature arrow-shaped bridge as its logo and even employed the motif in movements without a tourbillon. Fortunately, the new Laureato is very much a tourbillon; this combination of two icons should please both fans of the brand and enthusiasts alike. The GP9620 tourbillon movement is good example of high-quality, in-house watchmaking, and is evidently constructed and finished to a high standard. Derived from the GP9400 series of movements, the GP9620 features improved finishing and a new monochromatic palette. Remaining true to the original three bridges design, the proprietary calibre retains the visual identity of early GP pocket watch tourbillon movements, including the brand’s iconic tourbillon cage immortalised as its own design by Reinhard Meis in his book Das Tourbillon; very few brands have a tourbillon they can truly call their own. But the movement also incorporates modern amenities like automatic winding – thanks...
Fratello
Louis Vuitton introduced its time-only Escale dress watch last year to mark the collection’s 10th anniversary. We found the rose gold and platinum models with their trunk-inspired design and attractive grainy dials quite charming. RJ characterized them as dress watches that didn’t look like your typical grandfather’s watch. Well, the same is true of the […] Visit Louis Vuitton Dresses Up Its New Escale In Turquoise Or Malachite to read the full article.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer flexes its research and development muscles again with the performance-oriented Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1. Using the iconic square chronograph as a base, the brand’s engineers took inspiration from its Formula 1 partnership to explore new manufacturing techniques for this 30-piece limited edition that boasts an ultra-light, hollowed-out 18k gold case fabricated with laser additive manufacturing. Initial thoughts The original Monaco from Heuer remains one of the more enduring chronograph designs, with the storied past and distinctive square form. It is refreshing to see TAG Heuer using it as a base for newer, technologically-oriented pieces. This new limited edition takes the already-supercharged crystallised titanium split-seconds released earlier this year and reimagines the square case. The result is a honeycomb-patterned case that is surprisingly lightweight for the size and material. The complex and layered construction of the Air 1, here in an exploded view. The team at TAG Heuer employed a new additive manufacturing technique with the goal of a sturdy yet remarkably light chronograph. Keeping in mind that gold is a dense (thus heavy) metal, making a watch that qualifies as “lightweight” is usually incompatible with including the precious alloy. Here the engineers came up with a way to reduce the volume of gold used, while keeping the components’ sturdiness intact. The timepiece itself can be a little much in terms of styling, with the ...
Fratello
Today, we go hands-on with the latest Norqain release. The Wild One Meteorite 42mm Special Edition is the first watch from the brand to use this exciting material as a dial medium. Plus, as is normally true of the watches in the Wild One line, it debuts a new case color in the company’s proprietary […] Visit Hands-On With The New Norqain Wild One Meteorite 42mm to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
A tourbillon with attitude and a dial that refuses to be ignored. Zenith takes the DEFY Skyline to a whole new level with this rose-gold powerhouse. Bold, modern, and seriously impressive on the wrist! What We Love The combination of a brick-red dial with 18kt rose gold is the perfect combination. Rich, warm, and instantly eye-catching. High-frequency movement and a flying tourbillon is an extremely rare combination that Zenith has executed with some serious technical finesse. From the mirror-polished chamfers to the brushed facets and the rose-gold rotor, everything feels intentional, premium, and beautifully executed. What We Don’t Limited versatility when on the full-gold bracelet. It pushes the watch firmly into “special occasion” territory. A premium model with stunning looks and highly technical movement, the price, however, might put the watch out of reach for many. While the rotor and caseback finishing are gorgeous, much of the movement is still closed off, and some collectors may wish for a more open view. Overall Rating: 9.1/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 Zenith has long stood as a brand that has valued itself on precision and bold mechanical innovation, all the way from its roots back in Le Locle in 1865. This has become apparent even more with the invention of the El Primero movement, cementing the brand’s position as one of the leaders of high-beat performance. In the modern era of watchmaking, Zenith...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary Les Cabinotiers offerings include a variation on a theme with the Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”. Having been introduced several years ago, the Armillary Tourbillon is a double-axis regulator with a bi-retrograde time display. This unique iteration is dressed entirely in yellow gold, and intricately hand engraved across all of the case surfaces. Initial thoughts The Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades” channels the same celestial inspiration found on the other 270th anniversary watches into mythological storytelling, blending the brand’s signature double-axis tourbillon with sculptural engraving. Still inspired by the stars, this unique piece takes its theme from the Greek myth of the Pleiades - seven sisters transformed into stars who have guided sailors for millennia. The watch is as much about artistic expression as it is about mechanics. The heavily open-worked dial exposes much of the movement beneath, showcasing the double retrograde system for the hours and minutes. The champagne-toned bridges share the same warm hue as the Cosmica Duo, while the finishing throughout is of the highest standard. The cal. 1990 inside remains as appealing as ever, with skeletonised snail cams and beautiful swirling levers for the retrograde works, all tightly packed on the right side of the dial. The blued hands point to a numbered half-circle sector, which is useful since reading the time on this “halved” fo...
Hodinkee
One of JLC's best calibers returns in rose gold.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Cartier of today is undeniably a symbol of luxury and has strategically manufactured that imagery. From its quintessential deep red boxes with gold filigree border to its looping cursive script, even before you get to the object itself, whether it be jewelry or a watch, the brand has carefully crafted the entire experience of its product to position it as such. But today, we’re taking a look at an anomaly in the maison’s past, for which Cartier descended from its luxurious heights to extend its hand to the mass market. Les Must de Cartier is representative of a pivotal time in the history of watchmaking, and its contrasting accessibility played a crucial role in the maison’s longevity and its ability to weather shifting market trends. Down below, I’ll be walking you through how Must de Cartier came to be, some significant design codes, how the line has reemerged after its discontinuation, and share some musings and philosophical ponderings about this strange chapter in Cartier’s history. Les Must de Cartier Context From its relatively humble beginnings as a local, artisanal jewelry workshop in 1847, by the turn of the 20th century, Cartier had already established itself as a global luxury powerhouse, operating in London, New York, and Paris by 1909. Each independent branch of Cartier at this time was operated by a trio of Louis-François Cartier’s grandsons, and while they often collaborated, each location developed its own unique flair and catered to ...
Time+Tide
Christopher Ward revives Johannes Jahnke’s JJ01 modular jump-hour system in style, offered in Dusk Gold or Noon Blue.The post Christopher Ward’s C1 Jump Hour Mk V brings the JJ01 back to the core collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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