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Fratello
ISOfrane straps have a special place in diving history. As a 1960s creation, the original model became a fixture for divers due to its flexibility, durability, and comfort. Today, modern versions of the straps are used both for their original purpose and as everyday accompaniments. Until now, though, only one design was available. Today, we […] Visit Hands-On: The New ISOfrane VS 1969 Straps to read the full article.
Monochrome
By now, the history of the Dirty Dozen military watches is probably well known to just about everyone who would be reading an article like this, but here is a brief overview for any of you stragglers. Over 80 years ago, as World War II was raging on, the British Ministry of Defence (M.O.D.) saw […]
Fratello
Our friends over at Monochrome and Habring² are building quite a history together. Their first collaboration, in 2021, celebrated Monochrome’s 15th anniversary. The online watch magazine and the Austrian watchmaking couple teamed up once more in 2023. Their sophomore release, a split-seconds chronograph, raised money for charity. Today, we get a third collaboration in the […] Visit Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring² to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded in 1906 in the Place de Vendôme, Van Cleef & Arpels is the signature behind delightful high jewellery and timepieces inspired by fairies, flowers and butterflies. With its rich history and impressive lineup of artisans, Van Cleef’s Extraordinary Objects collection is home to some of the most spellbinding automata. The Brassée de Lavande (an […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Timex Expedition Scout is a military inspired watch that has been around for years now and is a staple in the affordable field watch space. In fact, this is probably among the least expensive quality field watches out there and while it’s far from perfect, it’s got a lot to offer. [toc-section heading="Some Timex history"] Timex dates back to 1854, when the Waterbury Clock Company first set up shop in Connecticut. Following World War I, the brand emerged as a leading producer of affordable wristwatches built for everyday wear, all centered around a reputation for rugged reliability. Their memorable slogan “takes a licking and keeps on ticking” was born in the 50s and was inspired by their well-known televised torture tests that cemented Timex as the watch that simply wouldn’t quit. These stunts became part of pop culture, reinforcing the idea that a Timex was resilient (in addition to affordable). [toc-section heading="Timex and Military Field Watches"] As for field watches like this one, Timex has some genuine (if modest) military credentials. In 1982, the brand produced low-cost, disposable mechanical watches in olive-green plastic cases, echoing the Benrus designs worn by U.S. service members during the Vietnam era. While Timex was never a major military supplier, it does provide some insight into their field-watch cred, and it helps explain why the brand’s modern Expedition line feels so grounded in that utilitarian, no-nonsense tradition. [toc-section ...
Video
Sometimes an understated watch, to the point of being bland or boring, is good. Imperfections can also become the very thing that gives it character. I never expected to enjoy or appreciate such a conflicted hot mess...
Hodinkee
The confluence of watchmaking and cinematic history was the perfect recipe for a record, as the F.P. Journe market shows no sign of slowing.
Teddy Baldassarre
The year has come and gone and it's time for us to recap our favorite watches of 2025. Here we list over 25 of our favorites across a variety of categories. Watches mentioned include: echo/neutra, Beaubleu, Breitling, Rolex, Zenith, Cartier, J.N. Shapiro, Krayon, and more!
Hodinkee
The watch, a part of the late Robert Olmsted's history-changing collection, goes up for sale on December 8.
Worn & Wound
Anyone who reads this site on a regular basis already knows that I can’t resist a Zenith Defy. I’ve long claimed the Defy collection is the great overlooked sports watch line in watchmaking, offering an unparalleled mix of creativity, robustness, and history that no large brand can compete with. It’s evident throughout the collection, even in the most run of the mill, bare bones Defys that Zenith makes. They are inherently weird when you consider the case shapes, styling, and high frequency movements. It’s no surprise, though, that as you get into the higher tiers of the Defy lineup, things get stranger and cooler, and that’s what we have here today with the new Defy Extreme Chroma Limited Editions. We return to the Defy Extreme, the most exotic take on the Defy, for the second time in less than a month. These Chroma executions are admittedly a bit less “extreme” in some ways than the lapis lazuli accented edition we told you about in November, but they’re honestly probably a little better for it. The Chroma concept is not new for Zenith – it allows them to play with color in a very specific way, using a spectrum of bright colors across a very busy dial to great effect. The Defy 21 chronograph received the Chroma treatment last, but now it’s the Extreme’s turn in two limited edition variants: a blacked out titanium as well as a lighter version in titanium and white ceramic. These watches exist, effectively, as two sides of the same coin, with the ...
SJX Watches
The marketing history of Rolex shows a brand building its public face step by step through symbols, carefully chosen moments, and tightly controlled messages. From its beginnings in 1905, Rolex shaped a clear, recognisable image, with a strong emphasis on visibility, control and consistency. The company spent real effort defining what the name Rolex should evoke and how that image would appear in print, in shop windows and on people’s wrists. Where many watchmakers leaned on language around heritage and handcraft, Rolex developed a communication style rooted in achievement, trust and broad recognition. The brand favoured association: with pilots, swimmers, climbers, tennis players, orchestras, laboratories and prize-giving institutions. Sponsorships, endorsements and even model names formed a linked pattern, presenting the Rolex watch as the natural companion of records, frontiers and public success. Hans Wilsdorf, the founder, treated promotion and product as parts of the same task. He saw that a claim about performance gained weight when tied to a visible test or public event, and that reputation could grow through displays of endurance, accuracy and elegance under pressure. The waterproof Oyster case, observatory trials, Channel swims, aviation flights and Himalayan expeditions all served as stages on which the watch and the story moved together. Across the decades this approach produced one of the most coherent brand stories in modern watchmaking. Through long-standi...
Video
One of the brands I talk about in this video is Seiko. Not long ago I made a video about how Seiko is “flawed but still the GOAT”
Teddy Baldassarre
While it’s more widely known for its jewelry these days, Piaget, founded in the small Swiss village of La Cote-aux-Fées by Georges Piaget in 1874, has been a watchmaker from the beginning. Its original trade, in fact, was making movements, and the company began making complete watches in In the 20th century. Before getting into the Piaget Polo, it's worth it to get into the brand's history in thin watchmaking. Since 1957, when Piaget created the historic 2mm-thick Caliber 9P, the company has been world renowned for the elegant thinness of its watches and movements. The world’s thinnest self-winding mechanical movement, Caliber 12P, followed Caliber 9P just three years later, in 1960, and Piaget has building upon these foundations ever since. Its most recent triumph in this area was the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, which debuted in 2018 as a prototype and hit the market in 2020; the entire watch, case and movement, is just 2mm thick, matching the wafer thinness of the original Caliber 9P. Along with Bulgari, another watchmaker known more for its jewelry, Piaget continues to embody the ne plus ultra of what ultra-thin watchmaking can accomplish. [toc-section heading="The Integrated Bracelet Era Begins"] However, while “thin and elegant” remains the calling card of the Piaget watch brand overall, the market was looking for something a little different - a little bolder, perhaps - in the 1970s. Audemars Piguet had introduced its groundbreaking Royal Oak “Jumbo...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex "Wimbledon" Datejust is a relatively recent fan-favorite among Rolex enthusiasts, with a distinctive design blending classical elegance with the spirit of sporting competition - much like the game of tennis that it celebrates. Here is what you should know about the Rolex Wimbledon watch, from the history behind it to the modern elements that can help you recognize one Wimbledon version over another. [toc-section heading="Datejust Origins"] The Datejust model that underpins the Rolex Wimbledon editions is not only one of the oldest and most enduringly popular models from Rolex but also one of the most significant and influential wristwatches in the world. When it debuted in 1945, the Rolex Datejust was the first watch that combined the robustness of the Crown's waterproof Oyster case (introduced way back in 1926) with the user-friendliness of its self-winding "Perpetual" movement (unveiled in 1931) - hence ushering in the telltale descriptor "Oyster Perpetual" that is now a ubiquitous presence on many Rolex watch dials. The Datejust was also the first watch to feature the now-widely adopted date display at 3 o’clock, the first automatic (i.e. self-winding) watch with a quick-change function for that date display, and the first to be mounted on Rolex’s now-famous five-row Jubilee bracelet. A few years later, in 1948, came the first Datejust with the bubble-shaped “Cyclops” lens directly above the date aperture, which magnified the date numeral by a ...
Worn & Wound
A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping. Few watches in history have captivated the world quite like Breguet No. 160, often referred to as the Marie Antoinette Watch. Commissioned in 1783, this masterpiece of horology was intended as the ultimate expression of luxury, precision, and mechanical complexity. Crafted by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the legendary Swiss watchmaker, it would take over 44 years to complete, long after Marie Antoinette’s tragic execution and Breguet’s death. Marie Antoinette was an Austrian princess and the wife of King Louis XVI. Born on the 2nd November 1755 in Vienna, Austria, she was the 15th child of Empress Maria Theresa of Austria and Emperor Francis I, Holy Roman Emperor. She grew up in the lavish Schönbrunn Palace centre of the court of Vienna, surrounded by wealth, music, and political intrigue. Marie Antoinette with a Rose. Elisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, 1783. Oil on Canvas. Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art The Palace of Versailles was a major site of scientific thinking in the 17th and 18th centuries. It hos...
Monochrome
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud marks a significant moment in its modern history, with the release of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC Seddiqi 75th Anniversary. A three-piece platinum edition created for the 75th anniversary of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the influential Dubai retailer and one of the manufacture’s first partners when the brand was revived in 2015. The […]
Fratello
Dubai Watch Week has built a reputation for giving brands the freedom to do more than show new watches, and Audemars Piguet has taken full advantage of that. The House of Wonders exhibition forms the core of its presence this year. It is a traveling setup that blends history, design, and the landscapes of the […] Visit Audemars Piguet Brings Innovation To Dubai Watch Week With The Intelligent Watch Box to read the full article.
Video
With the Geneva releases (Watches & Wonders) just weeks away, every watch channel is making the same predictable Rolex prediction videos. Today, Christian is skipping the brown-nosing and delivering a brutally honest...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Date has a prestigious history starting with the founding of the independent Swiss brand that makes it. Oris began making watches in 1904, when it was founded in Hölstein, Switzerland, by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian, who named the company after a nearby brook. A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly popular wristwatches, Oris enjoyed a long period of growth and expansion throughout the following decades and even made its own movements. Losing its independence during the consolidation years of the Quartz Crisis, Oris regained it in the 1980s, when a management buyout transformed the company and solidified its mission to make only mechanical watches going forward. Today, Oris has become a staple for value-conscious collectors of Swiss-made watches, particularly sport-oriented models. Among the brand’s modern pillars are the dressy Big Crown Pointer Date and the more aviation-centric Big Crown ProPilot, which trace their existence all the way back to 1938. That year marked the launch of the first Oris watch dubbed “Big Crown,” named after its signature element, an oversized, fluted winding crown meant to be easy to grasp and to operate by a pilot wearing heavy gloves. The modern edition of the Big Crown ProPilot debuted in 2014 (example above), notably adding what is today one of its signature features: a knurled bezel that resembles a jet turbine. Oris has revamped, tweaked, and added complications to the original, ...
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth continues its thoughtful return with the Tourbillon Platinum, a contemporary take on the brand’s signature double-ellipse design. While the design remains faithful to the original, the latest version elevates every element, from the crisp pinstripe guilloche to the slightly thinner case. The first platinum model in the brand’s recent history, the watch features the same purpose-built DR001 movement we’ve seen previously, which encapsulates the blend of traditional craft and contemporary styling that defines the brand. Initial thoughts The rebirth of Daniel Roth under the aegis of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) is something that I’ve followed with interest. With a team led by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, contemporaries and friends of Mr Roth, LFT has pulled off the rare feat of a remake that, at least in a tangible sense, exceeds the original. While the romance of a founder-led operation is impossible to fully replicate, it’s difficult to point to any single aspect of the Tourbillon Platinum that isn’t substantively improved compared to the original C187 of 1988. This speaks to the vast resources of LFT, which was able to design a form movement from the ground up to fit the brand’s supremely elegant double-ellipse case. This bespoke development cycle differs from what Mr Roth had to deal with when he became the first independent watchmaker to produce a tourbillon wristwatch in series. By starting over from scratch, LFT was able to produce a thinn...
Teddy Baldassarre
The story of Tornek-Rayville is one that represents a significant chapter in both watchmaking and military history, from the earliest purpose-built watches for divers in the 1950s up to the re-emergence of the cult-classic brand (in a notably new form) in the 21st Century. And it begins with the development of the world’s first modern dive watch: the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. [toc-section heading="Blancpain Fifty Fathoms History"] Founded in 1735 in Villeret, Switzerland, Blancpain is the oldest luxury watchmaker in the world, but its most famous timepiece in this modern era began its life as a tool watch for military divers in the (relatively) recent year of 1953. Jean-Jacques Fiechter, who headed Blancpain at the time, was an avid diving enthusiast who had long wanted to develop a watch that would be ideal for his hobby. Fiechter worked with Captain Robert Maloubier, a French naval officer, to design a reliable, mission-ready timepiece that Maloubier’s elite combat diving team could wear. The watch’s 42mm steel case - exceptionally large for the time - was water-resistant to 91.45 meters, or 50 fathoms, the maximum depth recommended for scuba divers. Its dial was black and its numerals were luminescent for greater legibility underwater. It was the first divers’ watch with a self-winding movement, the first with an antimagnetic case, and the first to employ the patented, double-sealed crown that Fiechter had developed. Most notably, the Fifty Fathoms was the ...
Worn & Wound
The Bel Canto, in its relatively short history, has proven to be a surprisingly versatile watch in the way it can wear different colors and accents. That’s a little surprising when you consider the fixed nature of the exposed chiming mechanism and the way this elements dominates the look of the watch. But color and especially texture can take the Bel Canto completely different directions, conjuring both contemporary “indie” aesthetics as well as something much more classical. The latest version of Christopher Ward’s C1 Bel Canto now dons the “Lumiere” designation that we first saw a year ago in the C60 Trident. Lume was a big part of the story with that C60 Trident, but it wasn’t the whole story as it is with the new Bel Canto, which here sees its most radical reinvention to date. Obviously, this is one for the folks who are never without a high powered flashlight in their EDC. The C1 Bel Canto Lumiere is the most exotic interpretation of the platform yet. It’s built around a platine with a sunray pattern that is intricately coated with two shades of luminescent material. This effectively lights the “dial” of the watch from behind, and below the chiming mechanism. The time-telling ring is now a solid circle of high powered Globolight lume, where the current time is read with lume tipped hands. There are no numerals or indices on this Globolight ring, and I’m sure some will balk at the fact that we now just have an approximation of the time to refere...
Worn & Wound
The post A History and Guide to Citizen Watches appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Video
When it comes to luxury Swiss made automatic divers from $5000 to $10,000, it's difficult to beat the big three—Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Tudor Pelagos. But under that price point, the water gets a litt...
Monochrome
At this point in watchmaking history, we can say, without taking too many risks, that Bulgari has become the undisputed master of ultra-thin horology. Breaking one record after another, the Italian/Swiss manufacture has been at the forefront of creativity and ingenuity, and while we are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with […]
Worn & Wound
The post A History and Guide to Louis Erard Watches appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Hanhart’s roots run deep in the history of mechanical chronographs. Founded in 1882 in Germany’s Black Forest, Hanhart became a mid-20th-century reference for timing instruments. Its stopwatches and pilot chronographs set benchmarks for robustness, legibility, and ergonomics, a legacy carried forward by today’s collections, most notably, the 417 ES. First developed for the German armed […]
Worn & Wound
The post A History and Guide to Marathon Watches appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Teddy Baldassarre
An outsized part of Seiko’s history is within its dive watch heritage, going all the way back to 1965 with the company's first dedicated diver, the 150-meter 62MAS, released as the 6217-8000, and later, its larger-crowned sibling, the 6217-8001. It was the beginning of a lineage that went on to include legendary references like the Willard, the Turtle, the Marinemaster, the Tuna, and the SKX, just to name a small assortment of them. Today, Seiko’s broad dive-watch lineup is well-known for its rugged dependability: from the entry-level Prospex models to the elevated Luxe variants like the Seiko SPB149, there’s a Seiko diver for every enthusiast. Seiko has paid tribute to the 62MAS design in the past with limited editions, but in the 2020s, the brand has seen a slew of regular-production, and short-lived models – like the SPB143, 239, and 149, which stand as the most faithful renderings of the 62MAS, characterized by the brand as the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch. Although this model family came with different dial variants at its 40.5mm case size, today, we’re going to showcase the discontinued SPB149 before looking at the current production SPB143 and other modern day options which continue the 62MAS legacy. We will go through the standard points of its case, wear, dial, and movement, and then share concluding remarks about its overall legacy in 2025. Seiko SPB149 Context In Spring of 2020, Seiko dropped a quartet of watches - the SPB143, SPB145, SPB1...
Video
Before you buy or decide to wear any form of “smart” watch, beware, as there are some real possible hidden dangers and risks hardly ever talked about online. This isn't just about potentially toxic plastics and el...
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